Ogier, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Marches de Granit” 2022 ($56, Advini USA)

Founded in 1859, Ogier’s roots are grounded in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but the winery has expanded across Rhône appellations — including this striking bottle from Saint-Joseph in the Northern Rhône. Named “Granite Steps” in tribute to the granite and schist soils on the growing site’s hand-built terraces on steeply sloped terrain, this 100% Syrah is a pure expression of its rugged landscape. The wine opens with benchmark Syrah notes, but it’s as if a Michelin-star chef decided to craft a wild açaí bowl with cured meats and wild strawberries — and it works. Beneath the exuberance, the structure is balanced. Given time, those flavors will meld into something more refined. Pair with rare filet mignon or a gamey dish for a true experience.
90 Vince Simmon