There are so many things that set this wine above the crowded field. One is its unique personality, including flavors and aromas that seem vaguely familiar yet are hard to pin down. That furtive essence engaging my taste buds, that je-ne-sais-quoi tickling my olfactory nerve — it all seems vaguely herbal and slightly mineral-rich in a damp-earthy way, with a whisper of exotic fruit somewhere in there. And then, just when you might think it’s all over, the wine’s tender yet precise texture grips your senses in the gustatory equivalent of a hug. The word yummy seems too sophomoric for such a sophisticated wine, but on the other hand it may be just the right descriptor for this striking yet unintimidating wine.