This wine’s escalating price seems an indication that other people love St. Henri as much as I do. There doesn’t ever seem to be a disappointing vintage of this remarkable, and remarkably pleasing, Shiraz, and certainly the 2011 is as deeply satisfying as ever. Rich and densely textured, the beautiful fruit shines through without the distraction of new oak (St. Henri is matured in huge, old vats that impart just enough oak to add subtle complexity and texture minus the attention-grabbing harshness new oak often brings to a young red wine). With its measure of spiciness, gentle nip of tannins, and mellow finish it’s hard to find a fault with St. Henri.
Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz 2011
By Marguerite Thomas