Pietradolce, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) 2018

 Exceedingly complex but still straightforwardly delicious, this is great choice for discovering why Etna is arguably the hottest wine appellation in all of Europe — in terms of interest, not temperature.  This “Archineri” line is a click up from Pietradolce’s very good entry-level Etna Bianco (which has a Rosso stablemate that is also excellent and very attractively priced at $24).  By comparison to the normale Bianco, Archineri shows significantly more richness and palate weight, but it doesn’t come off as “weighty” due to the energizing effect of a bright beam of acidity that rides through the wine’s long finish.  The fruit notes are very complex, offering suggestions of stone fruits, melon and citrus, with undertones of saline mineral flavors that keep this coming off as just another fruity wine, despite all the fruit it offers.  Indeed, in overall profile, this comes off much more as a “wine from rock” than a wine from sun.  Terrific versatility here with any food suitable for white wine, and likewise for any season across the year.