PietraNova, Bolgheri Superiore (Tuscany, Italy) “Renzo” 2021 ($62)

Comprised entirely of Cabernet Sauvignon, this is muscular and intense, but not unremittingly so, as the initial burst of black fruit flavor yields to underlying accents of light toast, baking spices, and autumn leaves. Full-bodied but without any excess weight or ripeness, this is quite composed in presentation without seeming closed or overly taut. A delicious streak of primary fruit sweetness holds the tannins and oak-derived elements at bay, lending fine persistence to the core flavors even as the structural components assert themselves in the finish.
95 Michael Franz