Piper Sonoma, Sonoma County (California) Brut NV ($23)

Composed of 70% Chardonnay with the remainder Pinot Noir and a little Pinot Blanc, this is a very satisfying bubbly with fresh, crisp lemon flavors and a hint of dry straw, with lots of tin-can minerality and good length on the palate. I often feel that this rather quiet house could use a good dosage of publicity.
91 Roger Morris