Rocche Costamagna, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2015

 This producer can make superb Barolo from this cru, and though I loved the 2012, I like this even better despite a little streak of alcoholic heat in the finish.  That’s La Morra’s “Achilles heel” in 2015, but in this instance, the wine’s many virtues easily overwhelm its one shortcoming.  The aromas are fresh rather than cooked, and the flavors are really more savory than overtly fruity, with the fruit notes themselves showing no candied character or hint of raisining.  The oak is subtle and entirely welcome as a provider of structural grip.  Winning juice.