Packed with power and intensity this Cabernet is nonetheless well structured, which guarantees that its fresh fruits (notably blackberries) and hints of chocolate don’t get lost in all that brawn. Graceful tannins and a generous finish are further bonuses here. If I have one complaint it’s that the bottle is unconscionably heavy. When asked about this widespread environmental problem in the wine industry many producers (and/or their press agents) put the blame on consumers’ demands, but it seems to me that winery representative should shoulder the responsibility of educating the public about the fallacy that a heavy bottle signifies perfection and prestige. In fact, what these overweight bottles really represent is the largest share of the wine industry’s considerable contribution to global warming.
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
By Marguerite Thomas
