San Leonardo, Dolomiti (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy) “Terre” 2021 ($25)

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenère, this wine from the Trentino area of the Italian Alps has the characteristic tartness in flavors that is the winery’s calling card while eschewing all the opulence that producers of Bordeaux varietal blends often exhibit. From younger vines, the wine has flavorful yet sharp red fruit flavors, substantial body, dusty tannins and a long finish. Those characteristics lend it more to enjoy with food than in sipping by the fireside.
90 Roger Morris