San Polo, Toscana Rosso IGT (Italy) “Rubio” 2010 ($15, Winebow)

This is a “Super-Tuscan” rendition made entirely from Sangiovese, and knowing its varietal composition in advance let me to anticipate a rather light, delicate wine.  On the contrary, this rendition from 2010 packs a real punch, showing dark pigmentation and fruit notes that recall dark fruits more than the red cherry character commonly associated with Sangiovese.  The wine is certainly not too tannic or tough to enjoy now with food, but it will surely become more complex as it softens over the next 3 to 5 years.
91  Michael Franz