Santo Wines, Santorini (Greece) Assyrtiko 2023 ($32, Diamond Importers)

Santo Wines is a cooperative winery founded in 1911 and is the largest producer on the island of Santorini. Assyrtiko is a native Greek grape variety that shows its best from this Aegean Island. Santorini is the remnant of a volcano that erupted with cataclysmic force some 3500 years ago, leaving an assemblage of volcanic rocks in its wake. It is difficult to grow grapes here, but the volcanic soils and spare growing conditions yield wines of considerable power and depth. The 2023 Santo Wines Assyrtiko shows aromas of apple, pineapple, herbs, lemon peel and spice. The flavors are lively and complex, with apple, lemon and tropical fruit flavors underlain by subtle citrus peel, herb, and spice tones. Its combination of rich fruit and palate-cleansing acidity makes it a versatile wine that can pair with a variety of seafood and fowl recipes.
91 Wayne Belding