Sea Smoke, Sta. Rita Hills (Santa Barbara County, California) Pinot Noir 2020

 In the world sub-culture of allocated wines, it can be difficult to distinguish between the producers that are mere trend followers from the those who are serious about the highest possible quality vintage after vintage.  That said, I can vouch for Sea Smoke’s commitment to top quality year in and year out.  The “Ten” — so named for the ten different clones on the estate — is Pinot Noir of depth and clarity of fruit, with layered cherry, rhubarb, mace, cinnamon, bright acid, silky texture that tightens up with the fine-grained oak.  The oak will need some time to fully integrate here, but this will age long and gain complexity over the next 15 years.  A bright blueberry note in the finish is a treat.  Another beauty!