Selvapiana, Chianti Rufina Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2009

This splendid Chianti is still available and Sangiovese lovers should seek it out. Bucerchiale is 100% Sangiovese from 40+ year old vines and, in a ripe vintage like 2009, shows exceptional depth and character. With a half-hour’s aeration, the sweet cherry fruit of the grape emerges and is bolstered by lovely floral, herb, earth and spice elements. The flavors show brilliantly pure cherry fruit plus hints of raspberry, dried roses, herbs, vanilla and subtle baking spices. It has the edgy, rustic, earthy/iron aspect that defines great Sangiovese. Totally satisfying with layers of flavor, a rich texture, and a long finish, it’s worth a special effort to secure a stash before it disappears from the market.