Sierra Cantabria, Rioja DOC (Spain) 2009

 This is the kind of wine that you take a little time with.  Like many Gran Reserva Rioja wines, the oak can be quite forward after popping the cork.  You need a decanter or a giant glass – or both – to really get this one to stretch itself out and show you what you’re working with.  It’s worth the effort, as the layers reveal themselves slowly – dill, dry earth, black fruit, anise, leather – there’s a lot going on here, and it comes at a price that undersells its quality.  Very tasty stuff!