Silvio Grasso, Barbera d’Alba (Piedmont, Italy) 2020

 Good Barbera is among the world’s best food wines, and among its strengths is that some of the least expensive and tricked-out versions are actually the least expensive and the best at the table.  The key, as usual, is going with a good producer, and Silvio Grasso is certainly in that category.  This is medium-bodied, with no evident oak but still a lot of interesting savory, leathery accents on a core of dark cherry fruit.  Bright with acidity but low in tannin, this is ready to rip, and a steal at this price.  Perfect for pizza, but up to the challenge of fancier fare.