I generally reserve scores above 94 points for wines that have the capacity to not only be delightful at present but also have the structure to age gracefully over several years. To see this number on a white wine is fairly rare in my backlog, but it’s there when it fits, as it certainly does here. The numbers help tell the story of this beautiful Riesling — 3.05 pH, .898 TA (!) — numbers typically seen only in sparkling wines due to early harvesting for high acidity. The 2017 is barely perceptibly sweeter than many of the previous vintages that I’ve had the opportunity to taste, but the impeccable balance will have you at the bottom of the bottle in no time. Tart apple, bright citrus, stony minerality and incredible finish push are the hallmarks here, and they promise to reward well into the future, which of course means that a case or two are in order.
Smith-Madrone, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley (California) Riesling 2017
By Rich Cook