There’s nothing quite like local knowledge when it comes to being able to roll with what comes your way, and I can’t think of anywhere that this could be more applicable than in the world of making truly fine wine. As brothers Stu and Charlie Smith (and next generation son Sam) approach fifty years on Spring Mountain, it seems there’s no curve ball that’s been thrown their way that they can’t manage to hit out of the park, so to speak. This vintage of the dry farmed estate grown Chardonnay is a grand slam of a wine, layered with complex apple, lemon and grilled pineapple fruit, well folded oak toast and racy acidity that just pumps the flavor mix endlessly. It’s one of their riper Chardonnay offerings, but it’s exquisitely managed and shows plenty of structure for aging. I could drink this bottle all the way down, but I think I’ll use the rest to spread the gospel a little bit. Bravo!
Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2017
By Rich Cook
