St. James Winery, Ozark Highlands AVA (Missouri) Norton “Explorer Collection” 2022 ($19)

Norton is a variety native to North America (not a hybrid crossed with a vitis vinifera variety). It is hearty but — on account of that — not for the faint of heart, though it is important in the history of wine in America. It is the official wine grape of Missouri, and though it reached its peak of fame when grown there, it was first made in Virginia. This rendition is far more delicious and much less challenging than most, this moderate depth of color, delicate aromas, very pleasant flavors with fruity and savory notes intermingled, and gentle tannins lending grip in the finish. By comparison to many (or most?) examples that are inky and impenetrable either to the eye or the palate, this is a stylish triumph of moderation. I’d not only drink it — I’d buy it.
93 Michael Franz