Want a full-bodied white wine to pair with moderately robust foods like salmon or roast chicken, but want something other than Chardonnay? Experience shows that few wines can fit that bill, with Semillon and Verdelho being among the very best — though also among the most difficult to find on restaurant lists or retail shelves. This is a very good rendition that is truly full-bodied but not lacking in freshness. Aromas including freshly chopped celery get this off to an appealing start, with fruit notes recalling white peaches and tangerines riding along with plenty of fresh acidity through the finish. There’s a bit of bitterness in the aftertaste that will possibly prove polarizing in a group of tasters, but my vote goes to those who enjoy it, as I found it a very positive counterpoint to the wine’s big, broad flavors. A Double Gold Award winner at the 2019 Toast of the Coast International Wine Competition.
Strey Cellars, Lodi (California) Verdelho 2018
By Michael Franz