Tenuta di Fessina, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) Carricante 2017

 This is among the most highly regarded renditions of Carricante from Etna, and for good reason, based on its consistently high quality and excellent complexity.  Like the best bottlings from Etna, it somehow manages to seem lean and linear if you choose to regard it that way, but also as substantial and even viscous if you concentrate on its texture rather than its inner energy.  Although it is very generously fruity, it also shows savory and even earthy tones on both the nose and palate, with a strong mineral undertow that provides layered flavors and an exceptionally interesting finish.  Tasted alongside several other top-notch Etna Biancos, this showed that it deserves its reputation as a wine of the highest rank.