Tenuta Sallier de la Tour, Monreale DOC (Sicily, Italy) Syrah “La Monaca” 2020 ($44, Dalla Terra)

Tasca d’Almerita, one of Sicily’s top producers, oversees Tenuta Sallier de la Tour for a cousin, which helps explain this bold wine’s stature. Although plummy and ripe, it is not heavy. Savory elements sneak in, adding complexity. Supple tannins impart a suave texture. This beauty grows in the glass, so don’t rush it.
93 Michael Apstein