Tenuta Scerscé, Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) Nebbiolo “Infinito” 2018 ($45, Dalla Terra)

Although it is made from dried Nebbiolo grapes (also known as Chiavennasca in the area), this red from near the Swiss border remains light-bodied and a little flashy in flavor, which seems to be the style of this producer. The flavors recall piquant cherries with some hints of cranberries, and it has great depth for a fresh-tasting wine, especially for one that is seven years old.
91 Roger Morris