Tenute Capaldo, Taurasi Riserva DOCG (Campania, Italy) “Gulielmus” 2017 ($60, Monsieur Touton Selection)

The 2017 Gulielmus Riserva is a gorgeous expression of Taurasi — deep, volcanic, and commanding, yet graceful. Dark berries, black cherry, and crushed black plum lead the aromatic charge, mingling with notes of leather, sweet spice, and the signature smoky minerality that defines this storied appellation. On the palate, the tannins are supple, with fresh, balancing acidity that carries the wine through a long, resonant finish. Before Sicily’s Mount Etna stole the spotlight, Taurasi was Southern Italy’s benchmark volcanic red — and wines like this remind you why. For drinkers who love the dark-fruited, mineral depth of Malbec, Syrah, or Cabernet Franc, this Riserva bottling from 2017 deserves a place in regular rotation. It is beautifully made with many years of evolution still ahead.
94 Miranda Franco