Thurston Wolfe Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Crawford Vineyard Albariño 2024 ($16)

Wade and Becky Wolfe, key players in the evolution of the Washington wine industry, launched this winery In 1987. Given Dr. Wolfe’s extensive viticultural research, it is not totally surprising to see wines made from rarely seen varieties like Lemberger, Primitivo and Albariño on his roster along with the Columbia Valley’s mainstays. He encouraged the Crawford Vineyard to plant Albariño in the Yakima Valley, and has made one from that vineyard over the last dozen years. This 2024, which is light yellow in color, begins with lively pear and stone fruit aromatics. On the palate, it is surprisingly round, smooth and plush. But the flavors remain focused on ripe nectarine with some zesty lemon accents and acidity leading to a long finish. Bigger with more juicy fruit than the typical Albariño, it is also more versatile. 215 cases made.
91 Norm Roby