This superb producer is now represented in the USA by Gallo’s import division, though I’ve yet to see this particular wine on our side of the pond. Let’s hope that changes soon, as this 2017 blend of 95% Carricante and 5% Catarratto is generous and easy to enjoy, but also sharply detailed and very serious and complex. Lean enough that I’d classify it as “light-bodied” on a restaurant list (but only after wondering if it should be designated as medium-bodied), it is very expressive and flavorful while never losing its impression of freshness. The fruit profile is balanced between suggestions of citrus and melon, reinforcing the ambiguity of light vs. medium body, but there’s also a subtle hint of stone fruit in the finish along with a faint nuttiness that makes this a wine worthy of extended contemplation. Or, you could just knock it back, with great pleasure. Terrific wine that nobody could fail to love.
Tornatore, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) 2017
By Michael Franz