Unfortunately, too many California Merlots don’t smell or taste like Merlot. Too much Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Merlot can obliterate the latter’s underbrush and black tea distinctiveness; allowing the grapes to get overripe does the same thing. Yet here is a textbook Merlot, with black olive, dried herbs and oolong tea notes adding interest to the dark plum and berry flavors. Medium-rich, smoky and with sturdy tannins, it has the structure to age for 15 years, yet is approachable now. Leg of lamb, duck breast with a cherry or blackberry reduction sauce, and wild boar come to mind as perfect companions.
Trefethen Vineyards, Oak Knoll District (Napa Valley, California) Merlot 2010
By Linda Murphy