Tregole, Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($30)

Sophie Ginervra Conte took over the family estate, Tregole, with the 2015 vintage and has been refining the wines ever since. Her father had planted Merlot, but she decided the wines are better without it, so it is no longer included in the blend. She believes the 2022s are her best ever. This one, and the 2022 Riserva, are both terrific, so I have no reason to disagree. The annata leads with enveloping aromatics and follows with a dark cherry profile offset beautifully by a firm minerality. Structured, without being hard, the lovely firmness balances its succulence. Fine tannins, which she attributes to her using whole berry-fermentation for the first time, adds elegance. Lovely now with hearty fare, its balance suggests a great evolution with a decade of bottle age.
94 Michael Apstein