TruthTeller Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Franc “The Clever Fool” 2021 ($45)

I have multiple hypotheses regarding why Cabernet Franc has had to wait so long (as in decades if not centuries) to be considered the variety of great potential that it manifestly is. However, I know that a single taste is worth more than a thousand words of argumentation or analysis, so please just try to taste this wine. It shows just a faint touch of (entirely pleasant) dried herb aroma and flavor, but nothing that could fairly be termed “green” … much less “vegetal.” It is still “varietal” in character, which is a good thing, because the world needs more good Cabernet Francs but clearly doesn’t need more Cabernet Sauvignons. It is rich and deeply flavored, which will help doubters get over their reservations, and well-measured tannic grip that suits with wine’s opulence and discounts the prejudice that this isn’t a serious or age-worthy grape variety. I tasted this blind, and loved it, and will look for it at retail — as you should.
93 Michael Franz