Vara, America (United States) “Silverhead” Sparkling Brut NV ($25)

In my somewhat limited tastings of Vara’s sparkling wines, I feel that they somewhat stray in quality whenever they leave the New Mexico vineyards and source grapes from other states and even other countries. Here the blend is Washington State Chardonnay and Xarel-lo/Macabeo from the Cava country of Penedès in Spain with a dash of Syrah. I have to believe it’s a case of “what grapes are available at the right price” and not of made genius, as you can make bubbly out of anything. The flavors are an enjoyable blend of golden grain and metallic minerality, but the bubbles and the impact fade from the palate like a hanging curve ball.
88 Roger Morris