Vara, New Mexico (United States) Sparkling Brut NV ($27)

An interesting blend of 72% Chenin Blanc 18% Listan Prieto and 10% Pinot Meunier, especially as Listan Prieto is another name for the once ubiquitous, but today undervalued, Mission grape. After selling his eponymous winery and waiting in the wings, presumably with a non-compete clause, Laurent Gruet has teamed up with the former cross-state competitor to produce sparkling wine. The results here are rich, clean flavors of creamy apple, light vanilla and marzipan, with a lot of bubble intensity and acidity.
91 Roger Morris