Vignamaggio, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione (Tuscany, Italy) “Monna Lisa” 2017 ($74)

The 2017 vintage in Chianti Classico was generally abysmal. Be warned that when you generalize about a vintage, you can miss the pearls, like Vignamaggio’s 2017 Gran Selezione. Remember, Gran Selezione sits at the apex of the Chianti Classico quality pyramid above Reserva. Producers can opt not to bottle one if the wine is not up to their standards in a particular year. The last thing Vignamaggio, or any top producer, would want is to soil the reputation of their top wine. So, a common strategy in a “difficult” vintage” is to select only the best grapes, discard the remainder, and make less, but outstanding, wine. I don’t know exactly how Vignamaggio achieved the quality of their 2017 Gran Selezione, a seamless blend of Sangiovese (90%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, but they did. They have combined the right amount of dark fruitiness with earthy and savory nuances surrounded by fine tannins. Not a heavy wine despite the inclusion of Cabernet, it is perfect to drink this lively beauty now with a grilled steak.
93 Michael Apstein