I remember touring Villa Maria’s gigantic winery outside of Auckland in 2005 and first getting the revelation that large-scale winemaking (also know disparagingly as “industrial winemaking”) could be an asset in quality control if an owner wanted it to be, that economies of scale didn’t need to be a negative, something detrimental. That shows here in this light-bodied, but high-intensity Pinot Noir, with its flowery, welcoming aromas, ripe cherry and cola flavors with a touch of savory herbs and a lean, slightly tangy finish with a whisper of tannins.
Villa Maria, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2020
By Roger Morris