Viñedos de Sonsierra, Rioja (La Rioja, Spain) Viñedo Viejo 2020 ($46)

This wine is priced evenly with this producer’s wonderfully fresh and pure “Viñedo de Altura” release from the 2023 vintage. Although I was tempted to accord it a slight lower score because it is more traditionally styled and less surprising, its very high quality could not be denied after it was provided time to breathe and open. There is vastly more oak showing in both the aromas and flavors, but the balance between the fruit’s potency and depth of flavor and the spicy, toasty notes from wood is just right. To be more specific, the oak-based notes enhance the fruit’s complexity without masking the core flavors of dark cherries and berries, and though this will benefit greatly from cellaring (for as many as 15 years and perhaps more), it can certainly be enjoyed already with robust foods.
94 Michael Franz