This is an intriguing and complex white that over-delivers for the price. That is probably due to the complexity of its composition – some whole-bunch with skin contact, some not; most fermented in stainless, but about a quarter going through elevage in older and newer woods. As a result, while in the Bordeaux style with flowery notes and seductive fruitiness – apples and guava – it still has some green fruitiness indicative of the South Seas. It also has savory notes and hints of skins, lactic edges, and a satisfactory though not crisp finish.
91 Roger Morris
Whitehall Lane, Rutherford, Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($30)
By Roger Morris
