Pago de los Capellanes, Ribera del Duero Reserva (Castilla y León, Spain) 2019 ($60, Kysela Pere Et Fils)
Pago de los Capellanes was at the forefront of the second wave of Ribera del Duero wines, part of a movement that emphasized finesse over power, seeking to showcase the unique characteristics of the terroir in Ribera del Duero. This Tempranillo-based wine expresses a...
Domaine St. Laurent, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Block One Estate Pinot Noir 2022 ($35)
In 2017 Alex St. Laurent and his father, Will, established a 25-acre Pinot Noir vineyard after a ten-year study of the soils and climate. Most of the land which was acquired in the 1980s remains a cattle ranch. As they venture into wine production, the Pinot Noir...
Paradise Springs, Virginia “Sommet Blanc” 2022 ($40)
While Vidal Blanc and Seyval Blanc have long been the preferred white hybrids of Eastern winemakers, it is only in recent years that experienced winemakers with better financing have begun to make them shine. With 89% Vidal and the rest Seyval, this blend’s vitis...
Cincinnato, Lazio IGT (Italy) Cesanese “Argeo” 2023 ($22, Oz Wine Company)
Cincinnato, a co-op of 130 or so members, controls the majority of vineyard area in Cori, where they are located, 50 miles southeast of Rome. The Cesanese grape ripens well in Cori because it is a warm and sunny locale. Although the Cesanese grape has been grown in...
Tablas Creek, Adelaida District – Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “Esprit de Tablas” 2022 ($70)
The winery flagship delivers the goods as usual in this vintage, embracing the vintage with a lighter than usual style, but not coming across as anything but top shelf. Mourvèdre is out front here, and it’s mix of funk and dark fruit gets a boost from the red fruit...
Stefano Occhetti, Roero DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Nebbiolo “Sanche” 2022 ($45, Wine Drops)
Stefano Occhetti is an up-and-coming winemaker from Piedmont who is embracing both new ideas and classic traditions. Roero, located across the Tanaro River from Barolo and Barbaresco, earned DOCG status in 2004. Roero’s principal red grape is Nebbiolo and this wine is...
Robert Mondavi, Napa Valley (California) Red Blend 2019 ($50)
Quite enjoyable, with very smooth, very creamy blackberry and black raspberry flavors of Cabernet Sauvignon (74%) and Cabernet Franc (13%). It is more of a sipping wine than a more-assertive Napa-style table red, although it does have light tannins to balance its...
Argentiera, Bolgheri Rosso DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Villa Donoratico” 2021 ($55)
This wine bats well above its “Rosso” designation, showing a stiff structural backbone that you would expect in a wine from the top Bolgheri designation at three or four times the price. It is just starting to show itself through that structure, with black and red...
Tenuta Anfosso, Rossese di Dolceaqua DOC (Liguria, Italy) 2020 ($43)
Rossese di Dolceaqua, both the name of the grape and the DOC, is the best of the Rossese family of grapes, according to Ian D’Agata (Native Wine Grapes of Italy, University of California Press, 2014). Tenuta Anfosso is a leading producer of this grape and engaging...
Domaine St. Laurent, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2023 ($18)
Made entirely from the estate vineyard, this Pinot comes across as unpretentious—in the good sense of the word. The 2023 growing season in the Rogue Valley started late but was relatively uneventful. From the family’s high elevation vineyard, the Pinot Noir fruit was...
The Vice, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “The Dragon” 2022 ($38)
Malek Amrani founded The Vice along with his wife, Torie Greenberg, in 2016 at the age of 33. If you think that is an accomplishment, he had already earned his Level-3 Sommelier certification, started his own import company, and trained for triathlons with Team USA...
Ségla by Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) 2014 ($80, Winebow)
Château Rauzan-Ségla, classified as a Second Cru Classé in 1855, has stood as one of the most prestigious estates in Bordeaux's renowned Margaux region for over 350 years. Ségla, the estate’s second wine, offers an exceptional and more accessible way to experience the...
Il Mosnel, Franciacorta DOCG (Lombardy, Italy) “Satèn” 2022 ($68)
Combine Mosnel, one of the DOCG’s top producers, with Franciacorta, Italy’s best DOCG for sparkling wine and the result is, unsurprisingly, delightful. The Satèn designation, always a Blanc de Blancs, indicates that the wine has been bottled with less atmospheric...
Château Branaire-Ducru, Saint-Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2021 ($62)
Château Branaire-Ducru has a long history of producing fine wine. Nestled near the Gironde estuary in the southern part of Saint-Julien, Château Branaire-Ducru was classified as a Fourth Growth in the 1855 classification of the Médoc. Its vineyards have deep gravelly...
Tablas Creek, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “Patelin de Tablas” 2023 ($28)
Here is a Syrah-forward blend at a great price that will serve all sorts of red wine purposes, be it a solo glass or a pairing for meats of any color. It is fresh, bright and easy to love, with mixed black and red fruit, a citric edge and subtle savory and spice...
Tenuta di Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($19, Dalla Terra)
A warm and generous blend of Tuscan (80%) and Bordeaux (20%) grapes, the wine has a smooth texture with black and red raspberry flavors, a sound structure, and lots of dusty tannins in the finish.92 Roger Morris
Boyer – De Bar, Vin de France Chardonnay “Les Peyrarols” 2022 ($35, Dionysos Imports)
Vincent Boyer and Emmanuel Lucas De Bar joined forces in 2008 to create the Boyer - De Bar winery. Emmanuel owns vineyards in Hérault, while Vincent Boyer has been at the helm of his family’s estate, Domaine Boyer-Martenot, for over two decades making high-end...
Capanna, Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) 2022 ($32)
Rosso di Montalcino is a terrific introduction to the more prestigious and age-worthy “big brother” category of Brunello di Montalcino. Although Rosso is made from the same grape—Sangiovese—and similar terroir—vineyards in and around Montalcino—the wine is more...
Tablas Creek, Adelaida District – Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Syrah 2022 ($55)
After 2021’s successes, winemakers around the state warned of the coming 2022s not quite reaching the same heights, but the more I talk to them, the more surprised many of them have been by the 2022s. This is an example of why – it is everything I love about Syrah in...
Lohsa, Maremma Toscana DOC Rosso (Tuscany, Italy) “Mandrone di Lohsa” 2019 ($52, Dalla Terra)
A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Alicante, Carignano and Petit Verdot, it is a very smooth offering, with excellent marriage of red and black fruits and barrel flavors as well as a leathery, nicely tannic finish. The presence of Alicante in this blend is...
Marchesi di Barolo, Piemonte DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Grignolino 2021 ($38)
Grignolino is a love-it or hate-it kind of grape and wine. Put me firmly in the love-it category. A light red color and floral aromas could make think it’s a rosé, but the firm—not astringent—tannins and bracing acidity snap you out of that illusion. Marchesi di...
Tablas Creek, Adelaida District – Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Mourvedre 2022 ($55)
This wine took a long time to open up, but it most certainly did. What started as a completely closed wine when first opened then bursts with strawberry and cherry aromas and flavors after sitting in the bottle with a glass’ worth of head space for four hours....
Ricasoli, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Brolio” 2021 ($26, Folio)
A pleasant and mellow Chianti Classico at a reasonable price – charming, if lacking a bit in gravitas. Its flavors are mostly reminiscent of overripe plums and mellow cooperage.89 Roger Morris
Enrico Serafino, Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Monclivio” 2019 ($50, Dalla Terra)
Vineyards in four communes – Castiglione Falletto, La Morra, Serralunga and Monforte – are the source of the Serafino Monclivio Barolo. The wine reflects both the power of Monforte and Serralunga as well as the pure fruit and floral character of La Morra. The 2019...