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THIS ISSUE'S REVIEWS

May 7, 2024 Issue

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ARGENTINA

Mendoza:

Red:

Domaine Bousquet, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Chardonnay “Lo Ca” Low Calories, Organic Wine NV ($14, Origins Organic Imports):  Bousquet is to be complimented for its devotion to producing affordable organic wines, but in this case there seem to be an intent not to produce an enjoyable wine first but instead to chase a market category – lower-alcohol wines.  At 7.5%, it does that, but the wine itself is extremely tart, metallic and acidic.  It is possible it will find an audience for those who like extreme ciders.      
86 Roger Morris May 7, 2024


GREECE

Red:

Pavilou Estate, Nemea (Peloponnese, Greece) Agiorgitiko Single Vineyard Selection 2021 ($25, R & R Selections):  Agiorgitiko, the stalwart grape of Greece’s Nemea region, ranges in style from light and juicy to deep and weighty, depending on the producer’s intent.  The Pavilou Estate Agiorgitiko is a balanced and rich wine.  From the Ancient Nemea subregion of Nemea, it shows a beautiful combination of fruit, oak and spice.  The bouquet shows floral notes plus ripe blackberry and cherry fruits followed by hints of black pepper, herbs, vanilla and baking spices.  The flavors are forward and attractive, with layers of cherry and blackberry fruits given added interest by the vanilla, spice and herb nuances.  Delicious now, it will cellar well for another five years.       
91 Wayne Belding May 7, 2024


ITALY

Sparkling:

Cleto Chiarli, Lambrusco di Modena Secco (Italy) “Vecchia Modena Nero” NV ($18, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  I am always delighted to receive the new samples of Cleto Chiarli because the wines taste good and because I’m amused with the super-descriptive labels of what the wines are and where they come from – all in their official titles.  This one has lovely fruit fragrance, loads of frothy bubbles, creamy tart cranberry flavors and a very clean finish – and it goes so well with anything with tomato sauce.         
91 Roger Morris May 7, 2024

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Tuscany:

Red:

Frescobaldi, Chianti Rufina Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) "Nipozzano" 2020 ($18, Shaw Ross):  The Sangiovese grape shows its vibrant best from vineyards in the Chianti region.  The Chianti Rufina district lies to the north of the Chianti Classico but many regard Rufina wines as the equal to most Classico bottlings. Frescobaldi’s Riserva Nipozzano is a Sangiovese-based wine from Chianti Rufina and shows exemplary style and character for a very affordable price.  This wine was fermented in traditional concrete vats and aged in barriques and shows a deft balance between fruit and oak.  The 2020 Riserva Nipozzano is sleek and stylish, offering layers of pure, ripe, cherry, raspberry and red plum fruits interwoven with lovely floral, herb, earth and spice elements. The multilayered flavors show brilliantly pure red cherry fruit of the Sangiovese backed by hints of raspberry, citrus peel, herbs, vanilla and baking spices. It is a delicious example of the invigorating quality of the Sangiovese grape.         
92 Wayne Belding May 7, 2024

Argentiera, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Poggio al Ginepri” 2022 ($25, Volio Imports):  This ripe, 14.5 percent stated alcohol, Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant Bordeaux blend delivers up-front fruitiness wrapped in plush tannins and supported by a touch of firmness that prevents it from being flabby.  Good acidity and a hint of bitterness in the finish keep it in balance though the overt fruitiness still predominates at this stage.  Enjoyable now for its black-fruited profile, I suspect it will be even better in a year or so after the structure integrates with its plumpness.  For those who think the specifics of the blend tells them something, here it is: Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (30%), Cabernet Franc (20%), and Petit Verdot.       
91 Michael Apstein May 7, 2024

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Veneto:

Red:

Scaia, Veneto (Italy) Corvina 2022 ($14, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  If you are looking for a house wine, look no more.  This single variety wine made from the Corvina grape has a bright dusty red color as well as soft aromas and flavors of tart cherry.  It is light, crisp and dry with well balanced tannins.  It is meant for the table and pairs well with pizza, pasta with tomato sauces, grilled shellfish or salmon.  It is in a handsome bottle with a Vinolok glass closure, so you don’t need an opener.       
90 Rebecca Murphy May 7, 2024


MEXICO

Red:

L.A. Cetto, Valle de Guadalupe (Baja California, Mexico) Petite Sirah 2022 ($12, Beso Imports):  Petite Sirah, known as Durif in France, has virtually disappeared from that country but thrives in California and the Valle de Guadalupe in Baja Mexico.  This is an excellent value for under $15.  The Cetto family originally comes from northern Italy but has been making wine in Mexico for several generations now.  This robust, indulgent wine offers a tidal wave of black and red fruits that merge with cedar and spice.  Generous and ripe yet with excellent structure and length, it has a long, mineral and baking spice-flecked finish.        
91 Miranda Franco May 7, 2024


NEW ZEALAND

White:

Astrolabe, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($20):  Well-known winemaker Simon Waghorn started this label in 1996 and since then the brand has evolved into a family owned winery.  Sourcing fruit from several vineyards, he came up with a powerful version in 2023 that is like Sauvignon Blanc on steroids.  Pale in color, the aroma is unmistakable Kiwi with its assertive gooseberry, lime, and bell-pepper.  Brisk and vibrant on the palate with lots of lime and citrus, the narrow flavors expand and conclude with a palate-cleansing aftertaste.  Lovers of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc are in for a treat.  All others should brace yourself.         
90 Norm Roby May 7, 2024

Babich, Marlborough (South Island, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc "Black Label" 2023 ($15, MHW Ltd):  Marlborough, a district on the north end of New Zealand’s South Island, is synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc.  That variety is, by far, the most planted grape in the nation.  The Babich Black Label Sauvignon Blanc is a delicious example of Marlborough’s distinctive style.  The grapes for this bottling were harvested from several estate vineyards within the appellation.  Fermented with selected yeast strains, the 2023 Babich Black Label Sauvignon shows a wonderful combination of aromas.  Peach, pink grapefruit and guava fruit scents are followed by hints of lily and fresh herbs.  The flavors of mouthwatering citrus, peach and tropical fruits are backed by subtle floral and herbal hints.  The wine is refreshing, layered and lively.  It would be a fine match for most any seafood or poultry dish.      
90 Wayne Belding May 7, 2024


PORTUGAL

Alentejo:

White:

Esporão, Alentejo Reserva (Portugal) White Wine 2022 ($23, Now Wine Imports):  If you are looking for something different in a white wine, this is a good place to start.  Flint/struck rock, peach, tropical, apple and a little spice fill your nose, and the palate begins round and viscous, cleaning up nicely in the finish after delivering the promised flavors.  There is a flash of herb in the finish that quickly gives way to citrus.  Chill this just a bit - it’s quite complex. Contains 40% Antão Vaz, 30% Arinto and 30% Roupeiro.      
92 Rich Cook May 7, 2024


SOUTH AFRICA

Red:

Remhoogte, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch (Coastal Region, South Africa) Merlot “Aspect” 2018 ($25, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage Co):  Remhoogte’s Aspect Merlot is sourced from a single plot of Estate vineyard.  The vineyard’s south-west exposure provides both access to the Cape Doctor, a dry south-easterly wind that keeps the grapes cooler, while providing less sun exposure. The vineyard’s aspect points south and away from the sun.  Winemaker Chris Boustred trained in Pomerol and Fronsac and this wine is a touch reminiscent of his time training in France.  His French training comes through, producing a wine that has both new world fruit and old world integration -- black cherry and black plum balance nicely against subtle, vanilla, clove, leather, and graphite notes.  For a red wine in the mid-$20 price-range, this wine is easily outperforming its price point.          
93 Vince Simmon May 7, 2024

White:

Remhoogte, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch (Coastal Region, South Africa) Chenin Blanc “Honeybunch” 2023 ($29, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage Co):  Remhoogte’s 2023 vintage of Honeybunch was just released and in time for warmer U.S. summer weather.  Remhoogte allows their Honeybunch Chenin Blanc to over-ripen, even raisinating on the vine.  Their harvest team is asked to only pick the golden bunches.  This harvest decision means that it takes the team multiple times through the vineyard and ultimately becomes quite labor intensive.  The golden grape bunches have more sugar and more flavor and a fraction of the grapes are botrytized, giving the wine a honeyed note for which the wine is named.  Remhoogte’s harvest and winemaking choices maximize the flavor concentration and complexity.  Chenin Blanc’s natural acidity and Honeybunch’s concentrated flavors also make this a wine that can be aged if you are willing to keep your hands off of these delicious bottles.        
90 Vince Simmon May 7, 2024

Remhoogte, Stellenbosch (Coastal Region, South Africa) Riesling “Free to Be” 2023 ($27, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage Co):  There isn’t a lot of Riesling planted in South Africa but Remhoogte found an untended vineyard on a neighboring property.  This vineyard was on a ridge planted in hard shale soils and they were able to make an arrangement that allowed the Remhoogte team to manage the vineyard and make wine from the grapes.  After harvest, the grapes are lightly pressed, fermented to bone dry -- no residual sugar -- and bottled immediately.  As a bone dry Riesling, the acidity is crisp and balances wonderfully with traditional tree fruit notes.  A touch of petroleum on the nose suggests this wine can be bottle aged for years to come.  Free to Be is Winemaker Chris Boustred’s experimental labeling, where he can change the wine every few years -- check the back label to verify which Free to Be wine you are purchasing as they make other white wines under this label.  Chris also hinted that Riesling could join Remhoogte’s mainline offering in the future.  With wine quality like this, I hope Remhoogte’s Riesling makes the transition.              
92 Vince Simmon May 7, 2024


SPAIN

Catalunya:

Red:

Danaus, Costers del Segre DO (Catalunya, Spain) Red Wine, Made With Organic Grapes 2022 ($13, Origins Organic Imports):  Here is a wine with a stupidly high quality to price ratio -- and I would be stupid not to wholeheartedly recommend it.  You can taste the blend, which is a rare find on the shelf where this will be located.  It shows juicy Tempranillo character, nice peppery Grenache notes, and a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon that fills out the midpalate.  It is lighter in body, floral, with a nice pepper and red fruit push in the finish.  A no brainer!        
91 Rich Cook May 7, 2024

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Galicia:

White:

Guímaro, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) “Cepas Viejas” 2022 ($35, José Pastor Selections):  The vineyards of Ribeira Sacra, with their steep terraces, are some of the most picturesque yet treacherous to work in the world of wine.  This white Ribeira Sacra is sourced from various vineyards with vines planted on slate, granite, and sand that showcase the region's unique terroir.  This luscious, unoaked blend of Godello, complemented by a touch of Treixadura and Albariño, presents a delightful and invigorating experience.  The palate bursts with flavors of lemon zest, ripe pears, crisp yellow apple, and hints of honeysuckle, leading to a lively and refreshing finish.       
94 Miranda Franco May 7, 2024

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Ribera del Duero:

Red:

Bodegas Aster, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “El Espino” 2020 ($44, Skurnik Wines):   El Espino was created to focus on a modern style of Ribera del Duero wines.  It has the power of a traditional style, but is quite smooth and lush in the mouth with ripe black cherry, blackberry aromas and flavors lifted by crisp acidity and finishing with well-integrated tannins.  The grapes are sourced from three different vineyards.  Half the grapes underwent malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks and half in second-use French oak barrels.  It was aged in French oak barrels, 20% new, for 12 months, then four months in tanks, bottled in September 2022.         
96 Rebecca Murphy May 7, 2024

Bodegas Aster, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) "Finca el Otero" 2019 ($63, Skurnik Wines):  Perfect weather resulted in an excellent vintage for the Tinta del País (also known as Tempranillo) grapes destined for this wine.  It has a concentrated black ruby color with aromas and flavors of blackberry, black cherry fruit with hints of white pepper, nutmeg strawberry, vanilla, and citrus zest.  It is full bodied, rich and savory rich in the mouth with crisp acidity and chewy tannins.  The winemaker considers it a classic example of a fine Ribera del Duero wine.  Enjoy it with a beef or lamb roast.          
92 Rebecca Murphy May 7, 2024


UNITED STATES

California:

Red:

Decoy, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) "Limited" Red Blend 2021 ($30):  Decoy's "Limited" Red Blend is a very forward mix that succeeds in the California-Bordeaux style.  It is rich and ready to drink, benefiting from 2021 vintage’s weight and complex character.  Proper green tones enhance the fruit, and it is altogether a long and delicious package at a more than fair price.  Contains 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot.        
92 Rich Cook May 7, 2024

Precision Wine Company, California (United States) Cabernet Franc "Octopoda" 2022 ($18):  Octopoda Cabernet Franc is a simple, full-flavored weekday wine – very pleasant drinking with muddled red berry flavors but just a little soft in the finish.       
89 Roger Morris May 7, 2024

Cuvaison, Los Carneros - Napa Valley (California) Pinot Noir Small Lot, Estate Grown “Début Cru” 2022 ($80):  The spirit of adventure is always evident in Cuvaison’s limited line -- a place where pushing the envelope is something fans have come to expect.  This is definitely on the dark and deep side of Pinot Noir, with earth tones and oak spice forward on the nose.  On the palate the raspberry fruit character manages to be dark and bright at once, while keeping the earth and spice intact from start to finish.  In a blind tasting, you might not identify this as Pinot Noir, but you will certainly identify it as delicious.       
93 Rich Cook May 7, 2024

Decoy, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir "Limited" 2022 ($30):  Another solid offering for this budget label’s top tier “Limited” series.  It is juicy and plush on entry, with sweet red fruit and forward wood spice that is set to please both the general red wine drinker and the Pinot Noir aficionado. You have to tip your hat to Duckhorn for remarkable consistency across their seemingly ever expanding portfolio.  No easy feat!           
90 Rich Cook May 7, 2024

White:

La Crema Winery, Monterey (California) Chardonnay 2022 ($20):  La Crema makes wines from multiple appellations, so check the label carefully.  This well-priced versatile Monterey Chardonnay is a crowd-pleaser because it combines a touch of creamy buttery flavors with green apple ones.  It is soft enough to savor a glass before a meal and has enough verve to accompany a roast chicken.  In keeping with current trend of lighter California Chardonnay, it weighs in under 14% alcohol.   
88 Michael Apstein May 7, 2024

Matthiason, Napa Valley (California) Ribolla Gialla Bengier Vineyard 2022 ($49):  Italy meets California in this 100% Ribolla Gialla, an ancient grape variety from northeastern Italy, specifically the region of Friuli Venezia-Giulia, which is becoming increasingly popular in California.  Effusive aromas of pear and acacia blossoms immediately take you in.  It has a lush texture, lip-smacking acidity, and layers of flavors of lemon curd, yellow plum skins, yellow apples, and baking spice.  Yet its pronounced stony minerality truly sets it apart, leaving an indelible impression.      
94 Miranda Franco May 7, 2024

Raeburn Winery, North Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($20):  Based in Sonoma County, Raeburn is owned by the Benhem family and is best known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  This is my first encounter with its Sauvignon Blanc and it distinguished itself in a tasting for its wide appeal.  Pale in color, it has an attractive aroma of fresh pear and  hints of honeysuckle and jasmine.  On the palate it is soft and nicely textured with juicy fruit and some flinty, citrus flavors.  Though soft, it finishes with good acidity for a lingering finish.  A popular style that lends itself to enjoyment as an aperitif or as a complement to the first course.       
92 Norm Roby May 7, 2024

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Oregon:

Red:

Argyle, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Estate Reserve 2022 ($40):  I always appreciate winemaker Nate Klostermann’s propensity for aromatically complex, acid-driven wines.  The 2022 Estate Reserve fills the bill, showing moderate stem character, tart cranberry, strawberry, rhubarb, oak spice and slight weedy character in that pleasant, cool climate way.  Already quite long on the finish, this will benefit from further aging to fully integrate the oak spice, but if you like that spice up front, dive right in.  Contains clones 777, 667, 115 and Pommard.         
94 Rich Cook May 7, 2024

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Virginia:

Red:

Hark Vineyards, Monticello (Virginia) "Spark" 2019 ($48):  This Cabernet Franc-dominate Bordeaux blend confirms what Thomas Jefferson knew centuries ago: Virginia’s Monticello AVA, located in the middle of state, is good place to grow grapes and make wine.  Hark’s mid-weight Spark does actually light up the palate.  A “just right” amount of structure provides a backbone to this plummy red without being intrusive.  A 13 percent stated alcohol reminds us that you don’t need super ripe grapes to make a super wine.  Drink now with grilled meat or cellar without fear because it will develop more character with a few years of bottle age.  For those interested in the specifics of the blend: Cabernet Franc 46%, Merlot 30%, and Petit Verdot.         
93 Michael Apstein May 7, 2024

Michael Shaps, Monticello (Virginia) “En Hommage, L. Scott” 2020 ($58):  Shaps’ unusual blend (Tannat 50%, Merlot 33%, and Malbec) shows the wonderful diversity of grapes and high-quality wine coming from that state.  Tannat, a grape native to southwestern France, is known for producing big tannic red wines.  Presumably, the inclusion of Merlot and even Malbec is meant to soften Tannat’s edges.  Whatever the reasoning, the blend works marvelously. Another award-winning Virginia Governor’s Cup wine, the En Hommage L. Scott delivers bright and lush plum-like flavors buttressed by a cranberry-like crunchy vivacity.  Its suave texture and fine tannins make it a pleasure to drink now with robust fare.           
92 Michael Apstein May 7, 2024

Cave Ridge Vineyard, Shenandoah Valley (Virginia) “Fossil Hill Reserve” Red Wine 2019 ($65):  Cave Ridge Vinyard's Fossil Hill Reserve is a Cabernet Franc-led (60%) Bordeaux blend.  It has warm dark fruit flavors of blueberries and blackberries with a hint of mocha, good density of texture in mouth feel, a dollop of vanilla and light tannins in the finish.  This was a Gold medal winner at the 2024 Virginia Governor's Cup wine competition.   
91 Roger Morris May 7, 2024

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Washington:

Red:

Syncline Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Cuvee Elena” 2021 ($65):  This is an enjoyable Syrah-Grenache-Mourvedre blend with fragrant raspberry flavors – both red and black – riding on a smooth wave toward a tangy finish.  I wish the transition between smooth and tangy were a bit more harmonious, but this is a very enjoyable wine that two sips in makes you want to search for some protein to throw on the grill.             
91 Roger Morris May 7, 2024

Skyfall Wines, Washington (United States) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($15):  Founded in 2014, Skyfall has emerged from the pack as a strong competitor in the under $20 category that has been dominated by Washington wines such as 14 Hands and Hot to Trot.  Under the winemaking skills of Nicole Walsh who gained experience at Bonny Doon and viticulturist, Dave Minick,  Skyfall is not horsing around.  Blended with Merlot and Syrah, this 2020 Cabernet offers pleasing plum and berry flavors in a fresh, savory, non-manipulated style.  With light tannins, it is smooth and finishes strong with some length.  What a wild, colorful label!  Enjoy it now through 2026.          
89 Norm Roby May 7, 2024

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