Over this past weekend, judges gathered in San Diego for the 21st running of the Critics Challenge International Wine and Spirits Competition, an unusual judging conducted entirely by professional wine reviewers who aren’t involved in the buying or selling side of the wine trade. The competition was conceived by our friend the late Robert Whitley, who had the wisdom to tap the knowledge and unencumbered objectivity of his fellow wine journalists to create an unprecedented approach to large-scale wine evaluation.
The wines reviewed here were the cream of the vast number of entries, all of which were tasted blind before being deemed Platinum Award winners. Every wine was presented to two different judges, and after receiving this highest-level award by at least one of them, all the wines were then re-tasted (blind) reviewed and scored. You’ll see from the reviews below that I wrote most of the reviews in my capacity as Chief Wine Judge, with some also written by Competition Director Rich Cook (who was pulled away frequently to address logistical issues or help judge spirits).
Picking up on that last word, the full name of the current competition is “Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.” The judging of spirits was conducted over the same set of days as the wine competition, and results will appear on
Spirits Review Online.
The reviews appear below within categories, progressing from reds to whites before sparkling wines and then rosé. Within the categories, the highest scoring wines appear higher in the listing. In the past, we’ve usually listed all wines receiving the same score in alphabetical order, but this year, we shifted to listing every wine scored at 94 points (for example) in order of perceived excellence. This makes the reviews that follow a bit more discriminating and perhaps more helpful to potential buyers for that reason.
However, please understand that wines adjacent to one another in the rundown below with scores of 95 or 94 all put in superb showings, and that listing one above the next is arguably a matter of “hair-splitting” in many cases. Every wine reviewed below ran successfully through two separate gauntlets of blind tasting evaluation, so you should be encouraged to buy any of them without hesitation to learn whether you are as excited by their excellence as we were. With all that set forth, here we go!
REDS:
Dutcher Crossing (Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California) Cut Root Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 ($61): A Pinot that displays the important varietal virtue of punching above its weight, this is fresh and shows some delicacy, but then kicks in with expressive, deep, and lasting flavors recalling dark cherries and berries. The balance of fruit, acidity and wood is excellent, so this is ready to go but also has years of positive development ahead of it.
97 Michael Franz
J. Lohr (Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, California) Red Wine “Cuvée St. E 2021 ($50): This line continues to represent amazing value, each of its three bottlings defying gravity year after year, and the price has remained unchanged through at least three US Presidents. The St. E is often a favorite of mine, and is so again in this great California vintage. Depth, richness, weight without heaviness, age worthy structure…all very well done. Stellar wine, and improving since my last taste of it. Contains 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot.
97 Rich Cook
ZD Wines (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($78): For those who love rich, soft, deeply flavored Cabernet Sauvignons from Napa, ZD may be the only two letters needed to assure a successful purchase. Luxurious is a word that comes immediately to mind, as what this provides is an almost uncanny level of rich deliciousness in relation to the structural elements (tannin and oak) that keep it from seeming formless or grapey or simply sweet. Cabernet often doles out tough love, but there’s no toughness here...just classic blackberry, black currant and black cherry fruit front and center, with the supporting cast off in the wings.
96 Michael Franz
J. Lohr Vineyards (St. Helena – Napa Valley, California) Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($60): Like so many Cabernets from top sites and producers in 2021, this is already complete and convincing in its technical characteristics as well as its undeniable deliciousness. Very deeply pigmented, it stains the glass with slow-descending tears that presage what is to come. Aromas and flavors of dense and intense mixed black berries ride right over the oak used for aging, with natural fruit sweetness that cushions any astringent effect of the tannins and wood. Circling back, this is already complete and convincing, and yet it will only get better for a solid decade. On top of all that, this is a bargain at $60 in relation to its qualitative peers.
96 Michael Franz
Meadowcroft Wines (Howell Mountain – Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 $125): Three “Bs” come immediately to mind when tasting this: Big, brooding, and beautiful. Still tightly coiled, the oak and tannin are as prominent as the fruit at this stage in the wine’s development, but the origin from Howell Mountain made perfect sense after I pulled the bottle from its blind tasting bag. Knowing the Napa sub-AVA reinforces my confidence that the fruit will easily outrun the wood and tannin, making this a wine that you could enjoy now with robust food if curiosity overwhelms you, but one that will hit its stride in about five years and hold that stride for—three decades. No kidding. It wouldn’t be surprising if you could only spring for one bottle of this, and if so, have someone trustworthy and youthful hide it in the most remote location in your cellar.
96 Michael Franz
J. Lohr Vineyards (Paso Robles, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Signature” 2020 ($100): After tasting this “blind,” I wasn’t surprised to see its triple-digit price tag, but I was indeed surprised to see 2020 as the vintage, as so many of the 2021s are the brightest stars in the current release firmament. But don’t be scared off by that, as this was not only made from ultra-premium fruit, but also benefits in terms of complexity from the extra year of bottle aging. Some wines made in this “statement” style come off as overloaded with everything (ripeness, density, oak, etc.) and are “impressive” but not much fun to drink. This stays on the right side of that line in every respect.
96 Michael Franz
Bella Luna Estate Winery (Paso Robles, Templeton Gap District, California) Never Idle Vineyard Tempranillo “Tempestuous” 2022 ($50): This bears no resemblance at all to traditional Rioja, but if you know Spanish wines and the big, concentrated, intense renditions produced in Toro and Ribera del Duero, you’ll not find this overwhelming as a rendition of Tempranillo. It is a big, muscular wine with striking physical density and very deep flavors, but thankfully, it hasn’t been hammered with oak, and has already largely absorbed what new oak was utilized in its aging. Black cherry and blackberry are the lead fruit notes, with wonderfully explosive aromas and flavors. Delicious now with something big like grilled steak, but this would reward cellaring for as long as two decades.
96 Michael Franz
J. Lohr (Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, California) Red Wine “Cuvée PAU" 2021 ($50): This is the Cabernet Sauvignon forward member of a trio of Bordeaux styled blends, and it’s a winner just like the rest of the line, at a price way below its value. I continue to admire the team commitment to bring this sort of quality to the world without screaming for attention or trying to gouge consumers – this is the real deal, and you can stock up confidently.
96 Rich Cook
King Estate (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Domaine, Estate Grown Pinot Noir 2021 ($70): King Estate makes wines at many different levels, and this bottling offers a look from the top of the pyramid. The expressiveness levels of the aromas and flavors are almost perfectly symmetrical in both their delicacy and impact, and likewise the structural components of wood, acidity, tannin and fruit are very precisely proportioned. All of this speaks to excellent growing and very skillful winemaking, and the wine’s sheer deliciousness is equal to the impressiveness of its construction.
96 Michael Franz
Wakefield (Clare Valley, South Australia) Shiraz “St Andrews” 2021 ($80): This is so delicious and broadly useful that it makes one wonder why fine Aussie Shiraz hasn’t retained the luster it enjoyed in the American market in the 1990s. Answering that would take us too far afield, so better to address this wine, which is a prescription for revival rather than a diagnosis of decline. It is packed with aroma and flavor and power generally speaking, yet is also very energetic and pleasant to sip even on its own, thanks to fresh acidity that enlivens the wine through a long finish. Neither oak nor eucalyptus notes are overly intrusive, as pure, potent fruit forms the core from the first whiff to the conclusion of that persistent finish. I find it hard to believe that any red wine drinker could fail to love this wine.
95 Michael Franz
Native Flora (Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir "Nothing But Time" 2022 ($55) I tasted this wine “blind” along with the other leading Pinots in the competition to see where it slots in among the others. Consequently, I had not seen the proprietary name of "Nothing But Time," but if it refers to potential improvement during the years ahead, the wine is aptly named. It is impressively concentrated, but not to a degree that makes it seem overblown either for Pinot Noir or Oregon, with strongly expressive aromas recalling spices and red berries along with a whiff of toast. All of the accents are just that—accents—and the delicious fruit holds center stage, so this is already very enjoyable but poised for a very bright future.
95 Michael Franz
Dutcher Crossing (Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California) Syrah Hidden Hill Vineyard 2019 ($50): They say that Syrah is a hard sell, but a taste of this will have you reaching for your wallet to facilitate taking some home with you. “Cali Rhône” would be a great opening descriptor as it shows the best qualities of both regions all at once, with black and blue fruit, rich earth tones, well folded spice and a long, supple finish. This is a true delight.
95 Rich Cook
Raymond Vineyards / LVE Wines (Napa Valley, California) “Legend Vineyard Exclusive” Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($95): Although this may seem like a contradiction in terms, this is a tasteful powerhouse of a wine, with all the concentration and depth of flavor one can reasonably expect at this price level, but with all of its elements in check and in proportion with one another. That will make it easier to enjoy early on than many of its cost counterparts from the 2021 vintage, but this approachability and tasteful style doesn’t come at the cost of diminished aromatic expressiveness or flavor impact.
95 Michael Franz
HH Estates (Horse Heaven Hills, Washington) Coyote Canyon Vineyard, Michael Andrews Reserve Red 2020 ($50): This is a very successful blend of French and Spanish varieties that is comprised of 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Grenache, 25% Tempranillo, 18% Syrah, and 7% Graciano. The years since the fruit was picked in 2020 have benefitted this in terms of integration and maturation, and yet it retains terrific primary fruit and striking intensity on the palate. The fruit tones are mostly black but with some red shadings also, with interesting savory undertones and some lingering oak spice. This shows great linear drive in the flavors and a very long, symmetrical finish, and has years of additional positive development ahead of it.
95 Michael Franz
Rodney Strong (Sonoma County, California) Red Wine “Symmetry” 2018 ($70): Just another gorgeous wine under this marque – the aptly named Symmetry never disappoints, delivering seamless integration of the elements deftly blended. One of the later releases from the vintage, it acquits itself as worth the wait, and it has a long life ahead. Once again, well done! Contains 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 6% Malbec, 4% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc.
95 Rich Cook
ZD Wines (Carneros, California) Pinot Noir “Founder's Reserve” 2022 ($93): ZD has been known for turning out deeply flavored wines for decades, and their take on Pinot from Carneros in 2022 certainly fits that description. Medium-bodied at a minimum and yet true to the variety, this big-boned rendition shows restrained aromatics followed by deep, dense, very impactful flavors of red berries and cherries with dark fruit undertones as well. There’s notable oak in the mix, but the fruit’s concentration and expressiveness easily counterbalances the wood notes.
95 Michael Franz
Notre Vue Estate (Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2022 ($55): This is supremely “pretty” Pinot, which is to say that it is reserved and elegant, with relatively light color and physical weight, but quite precise aromas and utterly delicious flavors. Scents of red cherries predominate but subtle spicy notes lend added interest, and the flavors are notably more impactful than the wine’s light weight would lead one to predict. And yet, a layer of pure, fruity sweetness brings the descriptor “pretty” back into play. This is beautifully executed – with a very precise and light touch.
95 Michael Franz
Max & Nico (Adelaida District - Paso Robles, California) Cabernet Franc “Terroir De Paso” 2020 ($70): This will not square with most taster’s notions of Cabernet Franc if France’s Loire Valley provides their frame of reference, but it makes perfect sense in the context of big, flavorful wines from Paso Robles. Certainly not light and leafy as in many vintages from France, this is more deeply pigmented, impactful in flavor, and more persistent in flavor despite some robust tannins. To be clear, it does show varietal characters and isn’t as big or pushy as many Cabernets or Zinfandels from Paso, and has very nice complexities that differentiate it, so this is highly recommended even at its relatively high asking price.
94 Michael Franz
Navarro Vineyards (Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir “Deep End” 2022 ($59): Critics Challenge was graced with some truly terrific Pinots in 2024, showing a range of styles that were all indisputably successful in their own way (and from a range of growing regions, which is equally impressive). This release from the highly-esteemed Navarro Vineyards marries delicacy with power and also fruit purity with some assertive wood accents. I realize that this wording might suggest that the wine has elements that are pulling against one another, but that’s only half true. This will indeed improve significantly as it integrates over time, but the proportions of the aroma and flavor elements are already so well measured that it can easily be enjoyed now. Impressive.
94 Michael Franz
Jeff Runquist (Jahant District, Lodi, California) Creekside Vineyard Teroldego 2022 ($32): This looks like a winner even before it is tasted, with quite deep pigmentation very expressive aromas with fruit and woodspice nicely integrated. Medium-bodied at a minimum, it shows fully ripe fruit but also very refreshing acidity that lifts the flavors and makes it seem lighter than it would otherwise. Moreover, the intensity of the blackberry fruit is brightened by very energetic acidity, giving this a lot of linear drive, and truly recalling renditions from Trentino in northeastern Italy, which is essentially home turf for Teroldego. One can’t taste this without wishing that other American vintners would also plant this to see what it can do in their region.
94 Michael Franz
Eberle Winery (Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, California) Red Wine “Côtes du Robles” 2022 ($38): Chris Eberle is showing real mastery with Rhône varieties, and he’s also a fine blender as shown here. If you ask Chris, he’ll tell you that the ’22 vintage isn’t the equal of the ’21 or the ’23, but he’s managed a fine wine here despite that issue. It’s quite elegant in style, leaning toward food pairings rather than ripe bombast. A success all around, thanks to deft barrel selection. Contains 58% Grenache, 32% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah.
94 Rich Cook
Eberle (Paso Robles, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Vineyard Selection” 2021 ($28): Believe it or not, this $28 Cabernet holds its own with Napa Cabs from the great 2021 vintage that cost three times as much. Concentrated and deeply flavorful, it is slightly less heavy than some of those very pricey competitors, and yet that attribute actually makes this less confining for near-term enjoyment with food. Offering more flavor than its weight or structure would lead one to predict, this would be just fine with a grilled pork chop, not requiring a lamb shank (though it would easily be up to that challenge).
94 Michael Franz
Bella Luna Estate Winery (Templeton Gap District, Paso Robles) Carly's Vineyard Estate Riserva Red Blend 2020 ($58): A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Sangiovese, this is a delicious success that rekindles hope for more blends of Italian varieties with California mainstay grapes in the future. Impressively deep in color, which weighs in right on the line between medium- and full-bodied, with good depth of flavor (probably attributable mostly to the Cabernet) but also bright acidity that drives and lifts the flavors (likely the Sangiovese at work). The result is more seamless than my description might lead you to believe, and the passage of time since harvest in 2020 has surely helped with that, but there’s evidence of quite skillful winemaking as well.
94 Michael Franz
Jeff Runquist (Amador County, California) Nostro Vino Vineyard Primitivo 2022 ($30): Some argue that Primitivo is a clonal variant of Zinfandel, and this bottling shows why, with solid foothills Zinfandel character that features a little herb character in addition to the typical Zinfandel markers of mixed berry fruit, pepper and in this case, rich oak spice that ties it all together. Nicely executed!
94 Rich Cook
Three Hammers Winery (American) Red Wine “Cuvée” 2021 ($47): Well, well – an appellation that doesn’t often cross my desk, from a Pennsylvania winery sourcing fruit from who knows where (I’m sure they do), with a team clearly selecting carefully and blending with skill. This comes off with right bank Bordeax style, and it’s just beginning to show its charms. Nice work! Contains 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 19% Malbec.
94 Rich Cook
Alexander Valley Vineyards (Alexander Valley, Sonoma County) Wetzel Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($35): This has been one of the most reliable Cabs from California for a solid three decades, and the fact that it can hold its own with the 2021s now on the market (which it certainly can) is quite impressive. Among its virtues is that there isn’t too much of anything—ripeness, density, oak, tannin—and yet there’s plenty of everything that you’d want for the foods that call for Cabernet. There’s a little streak of red fruit among the usual black fruit suspects, making for added complexity. This is a bargain, and a very notable accomplishment from a challenged growing season.
94 Michael Franz
Jeff Runquist (Jahant District, Lodi, California) Petit Verdot Creekside Vineyard 2022 ($28): A plush and pleasant Petit Verdot, with signature violet and black fruit aromas and flavors that ride a wave of well folded vanilla and oak spice through a long finish that brings a little oak toast forward. This will pair beautifully with a roast chicken or a range of beef dishes.
94 Rich Cook
Heath Vineyards (Willow Creek District, Paso Robles, California) Red Wine “Absolution” 2020 ($75): Heath Vineyards is part of Texas’ Grape Creek Vineyards, and it’s the part that sources fruit from California. This is spot on Willow Creek, with its big diurnal temperature swings preserving acidity and allowing for phenolic ripeness. Result? This wine, with bold fruit, bright acidity, supple tannins and moderate oak spice all crossing the finish line together. Nice! Contains 49.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33.8% Petit Verdot and 16.7% Merlot.
94 Rich Cook
NEXT (Columbia Valley, Washington) Red Blend 2019 ($15): Here’s a crazy value wine that everyone will appreciate, from general red wine lovers to real aficionados. Juicy red and black fruit, easy oak spice and crushed rock minerality play well together and linger long. And the price? Utterly ridiculous… WIN! Contains 43% Merlot, 37% Syrah, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Mourvedre.
94 Rich Cook
Starfield Vineyards (El Dorado, California) Red Wine “Bronson Bros.” 2020 ($46): I don’t know who the Bronson Bros. are, but I can assure you that you and your “bros” will enjoy this hearty wine from the Sierra Foothills. Ripe and rustic with a structural boost from some Petite Sirah in the mix, it’s ready for grilled meats of all kinds – the more well marbled the better. Contains 35% Grenache, 32% Syrah, 23% Mourvedre, 7% Petite Sirah and 3% Counoise.
93 Rich Cook
Inscription (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir 2022 ($20): Light and bright can be just right for Pinots when solo sipping is the purpose, or when fish or chicken is on the menu. This is certainly both light and bright, but by no means anemic, and it is especially expressive in terms of flavor, with pie cherry notes as well as darker Bing cherry suggestions. Very strong value.
93 Michael Franz
Jeff Runquist (Alta Mesa, California) Silvaspoons Vineyard Grenache 2023 ($29): It would be a mistake to refer to any particular rendition as “textbook” Grenache, as the variety produces a wide range of styles in wines made from it (light and juicy from Rioja Baja to big and burly from McLaren Vale in Australia), and yet the term is not misleading in this case, as the wine falls roughly in the middle of the worldwide spectrum. The fruit tone is certainly red, and the weight is moderate, and the aromas and flavors are playfully open and inviting, with just a touch of wood. This early release is poised to become significantly more complex as its young fruit settles down and tertiary notes build in with bottle age, but it would be terrific now with spicy grilled fare.
93 Michael Franz
J. Lohr Vineyards (Arroyo Seco, California) Valdiguié “Wildflower” 2022 ($13): Valdiguié was widely referred to as “Napa Gamay” or just “Gamay” until it was shown by DNA testing to be a distinct variety in 1980. There are some similarities between the varieties, and they show up in this release. It shows roughly the same physical weight as most California Pinots these days, but with slightly higher acidity as well as a pleasant herbal undertone that sets this off as a lovely thing unto itself. The tannins are also more “grippy” than one would expect to find in Pinot, but they aren’t bitter or astringent—just sufficiently firm to make somewhat more robust fare advisable if you’re thinking of this in the context of much more widely known Pinot. A steal at this price for flavor as well as interest level.
93 Michael Franz
Di Arie (Shenandoah Valley, California) “Gallery Collection GST” 2020 ($39): If the abbreviation “GST” is new to you, you’re not alone, as this is the first time I’ve seen it too. It is short for the (mostly) Iberian grapes in the blend, which is 50% Grenache, 27% Syrah, 20% Tempranillo, and 3% Touriga Nacional. It is notably softer than I would have guessed, and as a 2020 release, it is ready to enjoy now, which is a great advantage for restaurants or consumers who don’t have wine cellars. Medium-bodied, with a mix of red and black fruit tones, this remains lively and interesting but not overly acidic or tannic. Makes me hope “GST” catches on so that I can quit with the quotation marks.
93 Michael Franz
McManis Family Vineyards (Lodi, California) Estate Grown Petite Sirah 2022 ($12): Even those new to wine quickly learn that getting red wines with strong palate impact almost always requires paying a premium price, but this is a very good exception to the rule. Petite Sirah can be among the darkest and most intense varieties on the planet, but in this instance, McManis has managed to retain lots of flavor intensity in the finished wine while dialing back the (often rough) tannins lent by the variety. Softened up but not dumbed down, this is a $12 wine that can be paired up with grilled steak or garlicky lamb chops, and consequently a rarity in the world of wine.
93 Michael Franz
Starfield Vineyards (El Dorado, Sierra Highlands, California) Smith Flat Estate Grown Red Blend 2022 ($24): This is an international, multi-colored blend comprised of 41% Mourvedre, 20% Tempranillo, 14% Grenache, 8% Aglianico, 7% Cinsaut, 5% Muscat, 4% Counoise, and 1% Petite Sirah. The finished product is very inviting if perhaps a bit soft for a blend that includes Mourvedre and Aglianico, but this softness in textural terms will surely endear the wine to many more consumers than it will disappoint. The different varieties now form a seemingly seamless whole, with ripe tannins and mild acidity.
92 Michael Franz
Campo Viejo (Rioja DOCa, La Rioja, Spain) Tempranillo 2021 ($11): Some of Rioja’s larger producers enjoy economies of scale for growing, winemaking, and barrel aging that enable them to produce excellent wines that reach export markets at mind-blowingly attractive prices. This is just such a wine. It is light-bodied but offers lots of spicy, fruity complexities, with fine balance between grape-based and wood-based notes (with the balance leaning toward fruit, thankfully). Red and black cherry notes come first to mind, with fine purity and persistence.
92 Michael Franz
WHITE:
ZD Wines (Carneros, California) Chardonnay “Reserve” 2022 ($85): This bottling has a history of sitting at the top of the class when it comes to classic California Chardonnay, and it continues to do so with this vintage with bright apple, pear and citrus fruit, well folded oak tones, and a plush midpalate. The acidity is the magic sauce here, bringing the boldness of the fruit into harmony with the perfectly chosen oak. Great finish push that lingers and mellows just adds to the pleasure. Gorgeous wine!
96 Rich Cook
Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards (Umpqua Valley, Oregon) Estate Grown, “Cask 2 Schneckenleitner” Grüner Veltliner 2023 ($44): Um, $44 for an American Grüner? Yes, indeed...and where is the checkout line? This variety has been taken to heights by this producer that have even famous Austrian winemakers looking up at it from below. There’s also a “Green Lizard” release that sells for six bucks less, and that too is stellar, but this packs more deliciousness into a 750ml bottle than seems possible. Its viscous richness and fruity sweetness are just a bit jarring when considered in the context of many Austrian renditions that are nowhere near as luscious as this, but it only takes a few seconds for the lusciousness to overcome the element of surprise. Fruit aromas and flavors of rich white melon, apricot and citrus are all very appealing, and though there’s less peppery character here than in many renditions that are less opulent, nobody will feel short-changed after they leave the checkout line. I’d advise you to start tasting this cold, then stick with it as it warms to see the full range of its very considerable charms.
95 Michael Franz
Wakefield Taylors Wines (Clare Valley, South Australia) Dry Riesling “St Andrews” 2023 ($40): This is a top-shelf rendition of Clare Riesling, one that can be enjoyed now and also across as many as three decades as different aromas and flavors rise to the fore. At this stage, it shows tastefully restrained floral notes recalling white blossoms as well as fruit notes of orchard fruits, green apples and limes that continue through the wine’s flavors and finish. It is quite acidic and very dry, yet there’s nothing austere or sour about it at all, which can be proved by just enjoying it as a stand-alone sipper. With that said, please pass the oysters.
95 Michael Franz
Eberle Winery (Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, California) “Côtes du Robles” Blanc 2023 ($34): The blend may change from year to year in this bottling, but one thing that doesn’t seem to change is its top-quality level. The ’23 is mainly Grenache Blanc, and its stone fruit and apple character gets a boost from a nice dollop of Picpoul Blanc, a grape that’s gaining traction in the region. Viognier rounds out the mix by adding floral aromas and palate texture, and the resulting wine is elegant, beautifully balanced and long. Way to go! Contains 72% Grenache Blanc, 18% Picpoul Blanc and 10% Viognier.
95 Rich Cook
Schloss Vollrads (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Kabinett 2021 ($34): This great estate slipped over a period about two decades ago, but the renaissance that started a dozen years ago (or so) is clearly still running strong. This shows fine palate weight without seeming remotely heavy, which is the weird-but-true paradox of fine Riesling. Similarly, it is clear when tasting analytically that there’s quite a lot of residual sugar in the wine, and yet it isn’t obviously sweet because the fresh acidity balances out the sugar with great effectiveness. Poached peaches and baked apples are descriptors conjured by the aromas and flavors, with citrus acidity cleansing the finish and encouraging another sip.
95 Michael Franz
Bella Luna Estate Winery (San Luis Obispo Coast, California) Oliver’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2023 ($45): Theoretically there is a balance point between opulence and restraint for every California Chardonnay, and that point can only be hit by picking the fruit at just the right time and getting it into and out of a barrel at—again—just the right time. This seems exceedingly well timed, showing lovely fruit that adds a tropical (pineapple) note to the usual ripe apple and peach notes, with just enough spice to lend interest without intruding on the pure fruit at the wine’s core. Terrific work here.
95 Michael Franz
Navarro Vineyards (Anderson Valley, Mendocino County, California) Pinot Gris 2023 ($26): A fresh vintage of this offering continues a long string of high quality from this production team, who seemingly don’t know how to make anything that’s not high quality. It’s forward and lively, with bright citrus and stone fruit delivered in dry style with the variety’s signature woolly note making everything pop without taking over. Beautiful wine, as usual.
94 Rich Cook
Davis Bynum (Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay River West Vineyard 2022 ($30): Here’s a fine-tuned Chardonnay that balances richness and brightness very well, keeping the oak tones at a complementary level and allowing the apple and pear fruit to shine brightly. It’s a textural beauty, and the finish lingers pleasantly into the distance with the acidity keeping me coming back for more. Factor in that it’s fairly priced, and fairly easy to find, and you’ve got a winner.
94 Rich Cook
Zonte's Footstep (Adelaide Hills, South Australia) Sauvignon Blanc “Excalibur” 2024 ($27.50): Relatively cool growing conditions in the beautiful Adelaide hills result in wine styles that are routinely closer to what one expects from Victoria or New Zealand, and this offers a delicious case in point. It offers all of the citrus flavors and capsicum characters that one would expect from cool climate Sauvignon, yet it delivers them in a less assertive manner than either Marlborough or coastal Victoria. “Muted” is a tricky descriptor, as there’s nothing remotely mute about this expressive wine, and yet it shows the sort of restraint of Miles Davis’s muted trumpet on Kind of Blue. I go for years on end without using a musical reference in a review, but this wine compelled me to break form.
94 Michael Franz
Elizabeth Spencer (Mendocino County, California) Chardonnay “Special Cuvée” 2022 ($20): As tasteful as it is tasty, this is medium-bodied, lightly oaked Chardonnay that is fully satisfying without any trickery by dint of very pure fruit aromas and flavors. I don’t know which judge (or pair of judges) pegged this as Platinum in quality, but I’m impressed by the accomplishment, as this is the sort of wine that can get “lost” in a competition with plenty of “showy” wines that can overshadow “tasteful” wines that would actually prove much more enjoyable over the course of a meal or an evening. Simply delicious.
94 Michael Franz
Meadowcroft Wines (Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County) Wyldvin Vineyard Viognier 2023 ($34): The Viognier variety can produce magical wine when everything goes right, but it can be very difficult to pick at a ripeness point when the floral aromatics are expressive but the sugar (and potential alcohol after fermentation) haven’t shot through the roof. The team at Meadowcroft had very good timing in 2023, as this shows alluring honeysuckle aromas (recalling the bush behind my childhood home) but no hint of alcoholic heat in the flavors or finish. The back label shows 14.5% alcohol, but that’s the only sign of it. The acidity balances out the floral ripeness very effectively, making this a terrific sipping wine.
94 Michael Franz
Starfield Vineyards (El Dorado, California) Marsanne Estate Grown 2023 ($34): As good as Marsanne can be in regions outside of France’s Northern Rhöne Valley, one wonders why more of it isn’t planted in many more places. This seems as savory and mineral as it does fruity, with melon and orchard fruit notes as well as a pleasant hint of citrus rind bitterness that balances out the wine’s fruity (not sugary) sweetness. Delicious on its own, this seems even more promising as a partner for food, including moderately assertive preparations of fish or chicken.
93 Michael Franz
Brancott Estate (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($13): Year after year—and by now decade after decade—even the biggest producers in Marlborough craft striking wines from this region in the north of New Zealand’s South Island that are compellingly exciting, refreshing, and phenomenally popular among consumers. This is an object lesson in the phenomenon I’m referring to, and though it can be found on supermarket shelves in almost every state that permits grocers to sell wine, I’d still buy it and serve it to guests in my home. Admittedly, I might just present glasses without showing the bottle, as guests in my house don’t expect a wine from a grocery store, but I’d wager that very house that nobody would fail to enjoy the wine.
92 Michael Franz
Schmitt Söhne (Mosel Valley, Germany) Riesling “RELAX” 2022 ($12): This is the sort of medium-sweet Riesling that many consumers think they wouldn’t enjoy because they believe that it isn’t “cool” to like wines with sweetness—especially in a blue bottle. Yet I doubt very much that most would fail to enjoy it with gusto if simply presented with a glass to sip. Aromas and flavors of baked apples, mangoes and dried apricots are energized by fresh acidity, which keeps this from seeming cloying and invites sip after sip. And with just 9% alcohol, this will prove attractive to many who might never give a second look to a wine like this—much less the small print on the back of the bottle.
92 Michael Franz
Jacob's Creek (Australia) Moscato 2023 ($13): This is a sweet Moscato, but it isn’t as sweet as you’d expect, nor as frothy, and the sweetness it does show seems like an extension of the fruit rather than like—sugar. These are all positive attributes in my view, and though this wine is made simply to be enjoyed rather than studied, this just fine as well, in my view. Clearly intended for sipping, this could also prove quite successful with salty or spicy appetizers.
91 Michael Franz
SPARKLING:
J Vineyards & Winery (Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California) Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine NV ($45): Winemaker Nicole Hitchcock strikes again with this beautifully rendered Rosé fizz. It seems the house style program has come fully online at this point – it takes time to build a reserve library that allow for the consistency desired to be possible, and Nicole has managed this into existence with style and class. Layers of strawberry, citrus and a touch of brioche ride a creamy texture through a long finish that has real push. Brava!
95 Rich Cook
Trump Winery (Monticello, Virginia) Brut Reserve Sparkling Wine 2017 ($95): Here’s a clean, straight ahead Brut that’s tart and refreshing from start to finish, focus entirely on fruit and racy acidity to carry it home in dry style. The lack of autolysis character is a plus here, making a crowd-pleasing aperitif style that’s a real pleasure to drink. Classy!
94 Rich Cook
Miguel Torres (Maule Valley, Chile) Estelado Brut Rosé Pais ($19): Pais is a red grape variety that until recently was the most widely planted variety in Chile. This iteration shows that it’s much more than a one trick pony, making a layered, complex sparkler that is quite attractive on all fronts – particularly the price front. A superior value for its quality!
94 Rich Cook
JOLO (North Carolina) Sparkling Wine “Beach Bubbles” 2023 ($36): I had occasion to visit my first Carolina beach last fall, and I can pleasantly picture my toes in the sand and this wine in my glass in the warmer months there. A blend of Traminette, Pinot Grigio, Vidal Blanc and Chardonnay, it plays dry and bright, with a creamy mousse and lively citrus and apple flavors. When you’re in the mood to fizz the day away, this is a fine play, and the best vintage to date.
93 Rich Cook
Barefoot Bubbly (California) Moscato Spumante NV ($10): Creamy, bright and balanced, this top hit offering shows why Barefoot has legions of fans. It tips its cap to the sweet
frizzante character of Asti in an easy to drink, easy to find package. Nothing sticky here, just freshness by the container load. Well done!
91 Rich Cook
ROSÉ:
Oak Farm Vineyards (Lodi, California) Dry Rosé Estate Grown 2023 ($26): As most readers already know, there are a great many rosé wines released into worldwide markets these days. What not everyone would know is that many of the best ones are from unlikely locales rather than Provence or Tavel in the southeast corner of France. Lodi certainly qualifies as an unlikely locale, but this wine is utterly convincing in its balance, range of scents and flavors, and overall deliciousness. Blended from 35% Barbera, 29% Grenache Noir, 22% Sangiovese, and 14% Syrah, it shows lots of little nuances around a core of fruit recalling red berries and cherries. Truly dry but very flavorful, this is just flat-out terrific.
94 Michael Franz
