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Red:
Peñalolen, Maipo Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($20, Global Vineyard Importers):  Good luck finding $20 Cabernet that is as distinctive and detailed as this wine. I taste frightening numbers of Cabs in this price range — especially in my restaurant consulting business — and I don’t like your odds of finding any bottle out there that can match this level of character and complexity. It is very indicative of its Maipo origins, with lots of cedar and eucalyptus notes especially in the bouquet, but there is also plenty of dark berry fruit to keep this from seeming too “out there” in stylistic terms. You can find heavier Cabs in this price range, and lots that are loaded up with residual sugar to sell as by-the-glass bar pours, but this is in a class by itself in terms of intricacy.
90 Michael Franz May 23, 2023
Bordeaux:
White:
Clos des Lunes, Bordeaux (France) “Lune Blanche” 2019 ($20, Monsieur Touton Selection):  The Barnard family, owners of the stellar Domaine de Chevalier, one of the top estates in Pessac Léognan, owns Clos des Lunes, a property located in the Sauternes region of Bordeaux. The care they take with their wines from Domaine de Chevalier show in their dry white wines from Clos des Lunes. Though located in Sauternes, the label cannot carry that appellation because Sauternes producers are prohibited from making dry wines under the rules of that appellation. Hence, the less prestigious designation of, simply, Bordeaux. In the tradition of Sauternes though, the blend of Clos des Lunes’ wines is predominantly Semillon. This one, Lune Blanche, is really their second wine and bottled under screwcap. (The first wine is labeled Lune d’Argent). What a nice second wine it is. Delicate and balanced, you feel the creaminess of Semillon offset by a hint of bite of Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a good match for this summer’s seafood.
88 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
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Languedoc-Roussillon:
Rosé:
Famille Guibert Moulin de Gassac, Pays d'Hérault (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) “Guilhem” Rosé 2022 ($12, Beaune Imports):  This good value, food-friendly Rosé is widely available and puts many of the pricier, culty rosés to shame. A blend of 35% Syrah, 35% Grenache, and 30% Carignan, this 2022 Rosé is made by the time-honored saignée method which bleeds off a portion of juice during the maceration process, with that juice is destined for rosé production while the remainder in the tank is reserved for highly concentrated red wine. In the glass, this Rosé is a lovely salmon-pink color with bright aromas of strawberry, melon and fresh flowers. It shows some weight on the palate with berry and citrus flavors predominating. Finishing dry, with a hint of acidity, it is direct, uncomplicated and a crowd-pleaser. This could be your go-to rosé throughout the summer.
88 Norm Roby May 23, 2023
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Rhône:
Rosé:
Domaine de la Mordorée, Côtes du Rhône (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2022 ($25, Kysela Pere et Fils): Frequent WineReviewOnline r eaders may know I am not a fan of rosés in general because they are often vapid and lack character. Not this one. Domaine de la Mordorée has fashion one from a blend Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault that delivers lively refreshment, delicate red fruitiness, and complementary spice.
89 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
Domaine Chantepierre, Tavel (Rhône Valley, France) Rosé 2022 ($24, Fruit of the Vines):  Rosé lovers who seek full-bodied versions can look to Tavel for satisfaction. Domaine Chantepierre is a small producer in the southern Rhône appellations of Lirac and Tavel. Their 2022 Tavel Rosé is exceptional! Drawn from a blend of Grenache and Cinsault vines with minor additions of Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Syrah, the wine shows lovely freshness and concentration. It has a deep pink color with a bouquet of ripe strawberry, raspberry and red cherry fruits followed by hints of flowers, aromatic herbs and white peppery spice. The flavors are juicy and enticing, with layers of pure, ripe strawberry and cherry enhanced by herbal and floral nuances. Tavel is an unusual appellation because it is devoted solely to rosé wines and the 2022 Chantepierre Tavel exemplifies the genre.
91 Wayne Belding May 23, 2023
White:
Domaine de la Mordorée, Lirac (Rhône Valley, France) “La Reine des Bois” 2022 ($45, Kysela Pere et Fils):  Though more well known for its red wines, Lirac produces some lively whites, like this one. That it is made from organic biodynamically grown grapes indicates to me that the winemaking team is more compulsive in the vineyard because they can’t just spray to control disease. And it shows in the pure and lively white wine. Great aromatics draw you in and a subtle fleshy white peach-like nuance keeps you coming back for more. This nicely balanced white would work well as a stand-alone aperitive or with spiced Asian fare this summer.
90 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
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Sud Ouest:
Red:
Crocus, Cahors (Sud Ouest, France) Malbec “L’Atelier” 2020 ($28, Paul Hobbs Selections):  Crocus focuses on making true-to-terroir wines including this textbook Malbec from Cahors. This Malbec provides a rich dark color with lots of dark fresh fruit, mushroom, potting soil, spice and mineral notes. The firm tannins and dry style highlight the earthy terroir-driven French winemaking style. While Argentina has popularized Malbec, Cahors wines are equally as good and can show the breadth of the grape's potential. This is a bottle worth your time.
90 Vince Simmon May 23, 2023
Emilia Romagna:
Sparkling:
Cleto Chiarl, Emilia-Romagna (Italy) Brut de Noir Rosè NV ($18, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Founded in 1860, the Cantina Cleto Chiarli was Emilia Romagna’s first wine-producing company. Though greatly expanded and modernized, the winery remains in family hands today. This attractive Brut de Noir is a blend of 85% Grasparossa and 15% Pinot Nero. In the glass, it is an enchanting coral-pink color with lively, tiny bubble action. With its persistent mousse, the aromas offer fresh berries along with a little lemon verbena. And the palate impression is medium bodied but fresh, light and delicate. Some yeasty flavors appear in the dry, balanced finish.
89 Norm Roby May 23, 2023
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Friuli:
White:
Borgo Conventi, Collio DOC (Friuli, Italy) "Luna di Ponca" 2019 ($78, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  Borgo Conventi wines have become justifiably famous as top class Friulian whites and the Luna di Ponca bottling is exceptional. It is a blend of Friulano, Chardonnay and Malvasia. The Friulano is aged in stainless steel; the Chardonnay and Malvasia in oak. The blend shows benefits from all of its components. The 2019 Luna di Ponca is rich and ripe with impressive breadth, depth and complexity. It offers a luscious bouquet of ripe apple, peach and tropical fruits backed by fresh herb, floral, baked bread and spice hints. The multilayered fruit character is enhanced by a seductively rich and creamy texture with the pure fruit flavors interwoven with vanilla and spice tones. There is a lot to like about this pure and complex white.
93 Wayne Belding May 23, 2023
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Friuli Venezia Giulia:
White:
I Clivi di Mario Zanusso, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy) Friulano 2021 ($35):  This is just one in the stellar line-up of wines that Mario Zanusso makes at I Clivi. In the right hands — and Zanusso certainly has them — Friulano has depth, a suave texture, and bright acidity. I Clivi’s 2021 has all of that and more. Zanusso wrings every bit of concentration from the grape without a trace of heaviness. Its luxurious texture imparts a presence without being overbearing. A subtle peachiness emerges as it sits in the glass. Uplifting freshness in the finish seals the deal. It’s a great choice for grilled fish this summer.
95 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
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Lazio:
Red:
Casale del Giglio, Lazio IGP (Italy) Cesanese 2020 ($18, Siema Wines):  This is a rich red wine with ripe fruit and a bit of a rustic style that reflects its origin. Cesanese is grown in the hills around Rome and is often used as a blending grape for local café wine. Although it is difficult to ripen, the grape can yield an aromatic and rich wine when grown in the right spot. Casale de Giglio has clearly found the right spot. Blackberry and black cherry fruit aromas are enhanced by elements of herbs, smoke, vanilla and spice. This Cesanese offers a mouthful of flavor, with layers of rich black fruits backed by herbs, black pepper and spice tones with a zesty raspberry lift at the finish. The 2020 Casale del Giglio Cesanese has a rich texture to go with its deliciously pure fruit. It will provide great drinking for another 3 to 5 years.
92 Wayne Belding May 23, 2023
White:
Casale del Giglio, Lazio IGP (Italy) Bellone 2022 ($17, Siema Wines):  This is a delightful, full-flavored white from an obscure grape variety and a relatively unknown region. The 2022 Bellone, a local variety in the area around Agro Pontino, south of Rome. The Bellone is a late ripening grape and benefits from the daily sea breezes in the Agro Pontino Valley. It offers ripe fruit with concentrated flavors and the ability to retain refreshing acidity. The 2022 Casale del Giglio Bellone has a forward nose of fresh flowers, pear, peach, mango and spice. On the palate, the luscious layers of peach and exotic tropical fruit are enhanced by a lively, lemon zest nuance and a creamy texture. It is a classic Mediterranean white that is well worth sampling.
91 Wayne Belding May 23, 2023
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Marche:
White:
Collestefano, Verdicchio di Matelica DOC (Marche, Italy) 2022 ($16):  Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller and lesser known than Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, is landlocked, unlike its more famous sibling. Despite its location, paradoxically, its wines have a more marine influence because this valley in the Apennine mountains was underwater in ancient times. Its marine origins explain the silt sediment and limestone, a perfect setting for fine wine. Typically, wines from Verdicchio di Matelica are more angular than the rounder ones from Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, which make them an ideal match for summer seafood. Collestefano, one of the top producers in Verdicchio di Matelica, makes consistently fine wines that improve with bottle age. This 2022 is firm with a delicate yet persistent saline-like minerality. Lovely to drink now, it should develop beautifully over the next several years. So, you can buy this bargain-priced white by the case and not worry if you don’t go through it this summer. But you will.
92 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
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Tuscany:
Red:
Le Pianore, Montecucco DOC (Tuscany, Italy) “Tiniatus” 2019 ($40, VinWine Imports):  This family owned and run estate is tucked into the scenic wooded slopes of Tuscany’s Monte Amiata, where it produces a handful of different organic wines including this savory Sangiovese/Merlot blend. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged for 6 months in French tonneaux. It is savory, reasonably complex and very food friendly. Le Pianore’s wines are all certified organic. In the estate’s shop you may also purchase various goodies such as local olive oil, grappa and honey as well as a row of vines growing in the Le Pianore’s vineyard. If you decide to sign up for the vineyard option you will be sent a certificate of adoption plus regular updates on the progress of “your” vines. You will also receive a box of wine made from those vines, although I imagine you probably would have to go to Italy to retrieve it.
92 Marguerite Thomas May 23, 2023
Fattoria le Pupille, Morellino di Scansano (Tuscany, Italy) 2020 ($19):  Elisabetta Geppetti’s estate, Fattoria le Pupille, is one of the leading producers in the Morellino di Scansano, a DOCG located in southern Tuscany, near the coast. Though Sangiovese provides the base for Morellino, as it does in Chianti Classico, the wines from Morellino are typically richer than those from Chianti Classico because of the warmer climate. This one, a blend of Sangiovese (90%) and Ciliegiolo, has expected black-cherry lushness buttressed by juicy Tuscan acidity. It is terrific now with grilled steak. It would be a good choice for the upcoming grilling season.
90 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
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Veneto:
White:
Inama, Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy) 2021 ($16):  Talented and hard-working producers, such as Inama, are resurrecting Soave’s image that was tarnished and virtually destroyed by innocuous swill of the past. Now, wines from the Soave Classico DOC from top producers are frequently providing far more quality than their prices suggest. Here is one example. Weighing in at a modest 12.0 percent stated alcohol, this lively white provides more body and punch than you would expect. Wonderfully acidity in the finish amplifies its good concentration and depth. A hint a nuttiness adds to its appeal. And the price. Well, stock up for the summer.
92 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
White:
Arendsig, Robertson (South Africa) Chenin Blanc Farm NR 6069000 “Inspirational Batch 3” 2020 ($35, Truvino):  The vision statement of Arendsig highlights their goals to produce site-specific, single vineyard wines with minimal winemaking influence. Their “Inspirational Batch 3” is a Chenin Blanc with a beautiful golden color, perfumed floral, melon, wax, yellow apple, and floral goat cheese notes. The grapes are sourced from Robertson, a warm, low-rainfall region. Despite being an inland region, trade winds still bring in cooler air enabling the flavor development of their wines without sacrificing acidity. This acidity helps the flavors pop, enables the wine to pair with a variety of foods, and brightens the mouthfeel of each sip. The winemaker's choice to use spontaneous fermentation is a win and the wine has an almost flor-like quality giving it a slight sherry note of dried oxidized apple. The complexity of bright acidity and flor notes make this vintage especially exciting.
93 Vince Simmon May 23, 2023
Rioja:
Red:
Beronia, Rioja (Spain) Gran Reserva 2015 ($35, Gonzalez Byass USA):  A smile usually comes to my face whenever I return to Rioja Gran Reserva and, typically, its lovely union of fruit an oak. It is probably an unfair characterization, and perhaps one the producers wouldn’t care for but these reds remind me of Left Bank Bordeaux during the 1980s before their wines started to become more fruit forward. Anyway, this is a lovely wine with rich, red fruit that is almost juicy yet muted by almost-neutral oak that you sense as much as you taste. There is good acidity and mild, dusty tannins. A great wine to sip unless you have some cured ham slices handy.
92 Roger Morris May 23, 2023
California:
Red:
Enfield Wine Co., Chalone (California) Grenache Brosseau Vineyard 2020 ($40):  Enfield Wine Co. was founded in 2010 by John Lockwood, who cut his teeth in the winemaking world at some of the most esteemed vineyard sites and with some of the most noted producers in California. His 2020 Brosseau Vineyard Grenache offers luscious candied strawberries, black raspberry, red cherry fruits, and a hint of spice. The wine has impressive poise and buoyancy. This Grenache is reminiscent of Pinot Noir, making it a versatile and food-friendly red that is as well-made as they come.
93 Miranda Franco May 23, 2023
Mira, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Franc Hyde Vineyard 2018 ($90):  How long will Cabernet Franc be the most expensive red grape in Napa Valley? The fact that it is under-planted, in demand as a blending grape, and increasingly bottled as a stand-alone variety make it very much a grape of wide interest. In this case, add to it that Mira has made a very traditional Bordeaux-style wine that has dried fruits (cassis and blackberries) along with old-style, delightful barrel flavors, and we have a delicious wine now and one that has the backbone for long aging. The finish is leathery with lots of lip-smacking tannins.
95 Roger Morris May 23, 2023
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Syrah "South Ridge" 2021 ($15):  A perennial favorite, J. Lohr Syrah's engaging, dark, red-violet color beckons from the glass. The ensuing mouthwatering aromas and berry-centric flavors are likewise compelling. This is a wine that offers uncomplicated pleasure: it is all about the freshness and purity of those berry flavors uplifted by the merest trace of spice and a discreet suggestion of oak. Because this Syrah is straightforward rather than convoluted it may be best enjoyed with equally uncomplicated foods: spaghetti and meatballs, roast pork, or traditional quiche for example.
91 Marguerite Thomas May 23, 2023
Bacigalupi, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Petite Sirah 2019 ($58):  I have heard more than a few people of a certain age – over 40, generously – say they would like to see more Petite Sirah from California. It was once fairly common in Napa Valley, and I remember Warren Winiarski circa 1981 pouring me a taste and temporarily confusing me when he called it “pedi-SEER-ah.” By any other name, it has a certain wonderful dark exuberance and a degree of rusticity to it. This one from Russian River Valley is the best I’ve tasted recently. It is warm and generous with a combo of blueberry and blackberry fruitiness with a hint of bitter chocolate and a slight tanginess in the finish. It also has full-bodied texture, and is just a touch granular, with smooth tannins in the finish. It is worth searching out for PS fans.
92 Roger Morris May 23, 2023
Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard 2020 ($66):  Papapietro Perry makes a trio of Pinot Noirs that all show a focus on ripe fruitiness while keeping the distinctiveness of site. Nunes Vineyard, a former pig farm with rich soil and a warm site, unsurprisingly, produced this robust Pinot Noir. Weighing in at a 14 percent stated alcohol, it’s a concentrated bold expression of Pinot Noir. Suave tannins make it accessible now for those who embrace the full-bodied style of Pinot Noir.
89 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
Papapietro Perry, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir "Pommard Clones" 2020 ($82):  The lush Papapietro Perry Pommard Clones bottling is the boldest of Papapietro’s trio of Pinot Noir releases, displaying ripe black fruit notes. Like their two other bottlings, this Pinot Noir displays a velvety texture. Reflective of its 14.4 percent stated alcohol, a touch of heat comes through in its slightly sweet finish. Its velvety texture will make in popular with those who seek a hearty style of Pinot Noir.
89 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
Papapietro Perry, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2020 ($61):  Papapietro Perry’s vibrant Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir shows bright red cherry-like flavors as opposed to the darker fruit character of the one from Nunes Vineyard. Still, it’s mostly a fruit-driven Pinot Noir without substantial savory notes common to that variety. Bright and lively, the wine comes from several sites with the large Sonoma Coast AVA and, with its 13.5 percent stated alcohol, reflects those cooler sites. Its fine tannins make it a terrific choice for current consumption.
90 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
Newton Vineyard, Yountville - Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($210):  As many know, Newton winery and vineyards were destroyed by the 2020 wildfire as well as that year’s unmade vintage and much of it 2019 vintage which was yet to be released. The Moet-Hennessy property is now on the mend, and it recently released several Cabernet-based wines, including 2018 varietals from Spring Mountain, Mt. Veeder and Yountville. The Yountville is my slight favorite of those, the most-generous in texture and flavors of tart blackberries, but it also some hints of chocolate with lots of supporting tannins. Lay it down for a few years if you have that option.
92 Roger Morris May 23, 2023
Sparkling:
MacRostie, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Brut Rosé 2019 ($52):  A very different Brut Rosé — it’s quite apple driven, and shows deep brioche aromatics thanks to thirty months en tirage. Tasting blindfolded, most experts would be hard pressed to call it as a domestic, much less pink, glass of bubbly at first taste. That said, those same tasters would agree that they’ve got a seriously conceived sparkler in their hands. With a little time in the glass, more layers come forward, including a bit of strawberry. Unusual, but isn’t unusual and delightful what we’re all searching for?
95 Rich Cook May 23, 2023
White:
Kenwood Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Six Ridges” 2019 ($26):  Based in Sonoma Valley, Kenwood was a trend-setter from the 1970s onward with its Artist Series Cabernet, Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc. Now part of Pernod Ricard, the winery has been reaching out to other AVAs with its “Six Ridges” program. Along with an Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, this Russian River Valley Chardonnay is well-made and well-priced. Aged 10 months “sur lies” the 2019 Chardonnay combines fresh green apple fruit and light yeasty note in its appealing aroma. Its bright, drink-now style continues on the palate with apples, spice, and a hint of oak in both the flavors and aftertaste.
90 Norm Roby May 23, 2023
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Maryland:
White:
Boordy Vineyards, Frederick County (Maryland) Albariño 2020 ($19):  Albariño from Maryland? Albariño has found itself a second U.S. home in Maryland, where the Spanish variety is well suited to the Maryland climate. Modern winemaking in Maryland didn’t start until 1933 when Philip Wagner, a columnist with the Baltimore Sun, published American Wines and How to Make Them, based on his own vineyard experience. However it wasn’t until 1945 that Philip Wagner started the first commercial winery, Boordy Vineyards. Boordy offers this blisteringly fresh Albariño. This 2020 vintage displays a pale yellowish-green hue, with appealing aromas and flavors of tangerine, orange blossom, hay, peach, and lemon zest that is immensely delicious and mouth-watering. You need this for summer quaffing!
91 Miranda Franco May 23, 2023
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Oregon:
Red:
Brooks Winery, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir "Sunset Ridge" 2017 ($58):  Brooks Winery, located in the heart of the Willamette Valley, is the living legacy of Jimi Brooks, a visionary Portland native. Jimi passed away unexpectedly in 2004 at the age of 38. His son Pascal (8 years old at the time) became the Owner of Brooks, and Brooks has continued with the dedication of Jimi’s best friend, Chris Williams (Brooks’ Winemaker), and his sister, Janie Heuck (Brooks’ Managing Director). Their 2017 Sunset Ridge Pinot Noir Is darkly delicious with brooding characteristics and wonderfully balanced. It is loaded with layered black cherry cola, framboise, anise, and clove / allspice that jump out of the glass on the first whiff and all that carries over to the palate. It is silky with an elegant texture. So very delicious you will have to restrain yourself from immediately polishing off the bottle.
92 Miranda Franco May 23, 2023
Ken Wright Cellars, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2020 ($27):  Ken Wright popularized Willamette Valley by making excellent quality Pinot Noirs through the mid-90s and early 2000s. Today, Willamette Valley is known as one of the premier Pinot Noir wine regions in the world, and a lot of that is attributed to Ken’s work. Ken Wright Cellars produces a number of excellent single-vineyard Pinot Noirs. This bottle showcases the region writ large with underbrush, tart cranberry, pomegranate, dried spice, and wild strawberry notes. The bright acidity and soft earthy tannins make the wine an excellent choice for a wide range of food pairings including ranging from seafood with red sauce to steak. This bottle is widely distributed and is reasonably priced for its excellent quality.
91 Vince Simmon May 23, 2023
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