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Sparkling:
Keush, Vayots Dzor (Armenia) Méthode Traditionnelle Brut “Origins” NV ($26, Storica Wines):  The NV Keush “Origins" Méthode Traditionnelle Brut comes from high-elevated volcanic and limestone soils with a minimum of 22 months lees aging. Keush is the first traditional method of sparkling wine crafted from Armenian indigenous varieties — Khatoun Kharji and Voskeha. In the glass, it reveals a shimmering yellow hue and crackles with a lively mousse. Lemon blossom, fleshy peach, creamy apples, and toasted brioche emerge on the nose. The palate is expansive with opulent orchard fruits, bright green apple, nutmeg, and fennel notes bolstered by crisp acidity and a lifted expressive finish.
91 Miranda Franco Mar 28, 2023
Red:
Wakefield / Taylors, Clare Valley and McLaren Vale (Australia) Shiraz "Jaraman" 2021 ($32):  Here is a bold Shiraz that awaits your best lamb preparation – it will work from rack to shank to lollipops. Its well folded menthol and mint notes complement lively black fruit and bright brown spice in a plush yet structured package. The finish is already fully integrated, but there is some upside to aging this for a few years as well. I can’t say enough good things about this producer.
95 Rich Cook Mar 28, 2023
Burgundy:
White:
Domaine Gérard Tremblay, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Fourchaume 2020 ($40, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  Fourchaume, one of top Premier Cru vineyards of Chablis, abuts the Grand Cru vineyards on the right bank of the Serein River. Generally, the wines from Fourchaume are more voluptuous, relatively speaking of course, then the wines from other 1er cru vineyards. Tremblay’s 2020 Fourchaume has less ripeness than expected, especially in a hot vintage like 2020. Instead, this charmer has a gorgeous elegance and refinement. Flinty and flowery, this enchanting wine dances on the palate and then finishes with a vigorous streak of bright citrus acidity.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023
Maison Louis Latour, Mâcon-Lugny (Burgundy, France) Les Genièvres 2020 ($24, Louis Latour, USA):  The Mâconnais, a region of Burgundy that lies south of the famed and expensive Côte d’Or, is an unexplored treasure-trove of Chardonnay-based wines. The base of the pedigree pyramid are wines labeled Mâcon-Villages, which means they came from grapes grown anywhere throughout the region. If, however, the label reads Mâcon-xyz, or in this case, Mâcon-Lugny, the grapes came from a more delineated area, namely that specific village. Theoretically, the smaller the area from which the grapes came, the better the wine. At the top of the Mâconnais pyramid sits the more well-known appellations of St. Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé. Latour’s firm style fits the warm and ripe 2020 perfectly, as this wine shows. It has remarkably good density and weight for a wine from Mâcon, but it’s not heavy or ponderous because of riveting acidity that imparts an uplifting character. Think of it as your go-to white this summer.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023
Maison Louis Latour, Saint Véran (Burgundy, France) “Les Deux Moulins” 2020 ($35, Louis Latour, USA):  The Saint Véran appellation abuts Pouilly-Fuissé and, unsurprisingly, the wines are similar. Though when tasting the same producer’s Saint Véran next to their Pouilly-Fuissé, the latter always comes away the winner, at least until you see the prices. Vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé have just been granted premier cru status and that has resulted in a price increase even for the non-premier cru wines. So, expect to see a lot more Saint Véran on the market to fill the price void. Latour’s is an excellent place to start to explore this appellation. As much as I liked Latour Mâcon-Lugny, their Saint Véran just has more elegance and finesse to accompany its depth and vivacity. You and you banker will decide what to drink this summer.
91 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023
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Champagne:
Sparkling:
Guy Charlemagne, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé NV ($72, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  Ironically, Guy Charlemagne who is located in Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of Champagne’s great sites for Chardonnay, makes this fabulous Rosé entirely from Pinot Noir. Yes, it’s a gloriously rich powerhouse, yet it is balanced and not overdone. Red fruit springs from the glass, caresses the palate, and seemingly lasts forever. Enjoy this beauty as a stand-alone celebratory drink, or match it with sushi or even a grilled veal chop.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023
Piedmont:
White:
Paolo Saracco, Moscato d’Asti DOP (Piedmont, Italy) 2021 ($15, Wines Unlimited):  I like to have a bottle of Moscato d’Asti like this one from Paolo Saracco on hand to complete dinner. Its yummy aromas and flavors of peaches wrapped in honeysuckle with Meyer lemon zest and light, lively refreshing fizz is very satisfying. Paolo Caracco grows 50 hectares of Moscato grapes in vineyards at various elevations in the region to provide the layered flavors. Founded in 1900 by Luigi Saracco, their wines were sold in bulk for Vermouth. From 1950 to 1988, Luigi's son. Giovanni, expanded their vineyards, selling grapes to producers of Asti Spumante. Beginning in 1998, Giovanni’s son Paolo studied oenology and decided to bottle their wines. Thus was born the Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti.
93 Rebecca Murphy Mar 28, 2023
Guidobono, Roero Arneis DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) 2021 ($18, Jan D’Amore):  The name Arneis, which translates as “little rascal,” is a reference to the grape’s sometimes challenging behavior in the vineyard. But by the time I poured it into my glass the wine’s well-balanced flavors and nicely rounded mouthfeel might have led me to think that these grapes had been by nature well behaved in the vineyard. Or perhaps they were simply well cared for. Cryomaceration, a process in which the grapes are stabilized at relatively low temperatures to help extract compounds in the grape skins, certainly contributed to its good balance and pleasing texture. Whatever the true explanation, this deliciously crisp and dry white wine from northern Italy’s Piedmont region offers inviting aromas that lean toward floral, plus a relatively generous body, a reasonable 13.5% alcohol level, and a flavor profile suggesting stone fruits and pear. Certainly the 30 to 40-year-old vines thrive in the Roero region’s hilly clay and limestone soils. All in all, this is one little rascal that’s easy to fall in love with.
93 Marguerite Thomas Mar 28, 2023
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Puglia:
Red:
Masseria Li Veli, Salento IGT (Puglia, Italy) Susumaniello 2021 ($24, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  I was introduced to the wine grape Susumaniello (sue sue man YELL oh) during a trip to Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot in 2017. As I noted in a column that year, “the grape’s name refers to its vigor when allowed to grow unimpeded by pruning or other limiting vineyard practices. Apparently, the vine can carry a heavy load like a donkey, which most likely made it popular as a component of much of the bulk wine production for which Puglia was known in the past. That vigor drops dramatically after the vine gets older than ten-years, which may be one of the reasons for its near demise. That decrease in vigor also may be one of the reasons for the renewed interest in the grape.” This past week, I served this 2021 Susumaniello with a roasted pork tenderloin, a protein which I think has a bit of sweetness that pairs beautifully with the wine’s bright raspberry, cherry fruit laced with anise, round and luscious in the mouth. Crisp acidity keeps it fresh, while the grape’s sturdy tannins keep it firm.
94 Rebecca Murphy Mar 28, 2023
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Sicily:
White:
Ciro Biondi, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Outis” (Nessuno) 2018 ($27, Oliver McCrum Wines):  Approaching five years of age, this lovely wine is grown on the slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna, is fresh and silky smooth. It is made by Stef and Ciri Biondi, whose family has been making wines since the beginning of the 1900s from vineyards they have owned since the 1600s. Etna’s super star white grape, Carricante is supported by the addition of Minella, Malvasia, Catarrato and Moscatello dell'Etna. Its name comes from the Greek Outis, which is Nessuno in Italian, “nobody" in English. It is the name Ulysses gave to Polyfemous the Cyclops on the foothills of Mount Etna.
95 Rebecca Murphy Mar 28, 2023
Tornatore, Etna Bianco DOC (Sicily, Italy) “Pietrarizzo” 2020 ($40, LUX Wines):  Hailing from Sicily, this fresh and electric primarily Carricante benefits from the mineral-rich, volcanic soils of Mount Etna. The 2020 Etna Bianco Pietrarizzo has alluring aromas of preserved lemons, white licorice, and crushed stone. The palate is pure, dry, and mineral, with racy acidity that zings with prickly pear, lemon pith, and green apple leading into a beautiful saline finish. Mt. Etna wines are on the rise, and wines like Tornatore are precisely why.
94 Miranda Franco Mar 28, 2023
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Tuscany:
Red:
Capezzana, Carmignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) “Trefiano” Riserva 2018 ($66, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Capezzana produces their Trefiano Riserva, a blend of Sangiovese (80%) with equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo, only in the best years. The stunning 2018, a big wine, to be sure, is balanced by spicy, savory notes and an incredible freshness. The tannins in this well-structured wine provide support but are hardly noticeable under its suave texture. It displays considerably more power and complexity than their Villa di Capezzana Carmignano without losing any finesse or elegance. Decant it and drink it now with grilled meat or other robust fare to capture its power, or cellar it for a decade and savor the nuances that will emerge.
94 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023
Capezzana, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Ugo Contini Bonacossi” 2018 ($62, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  This youthful treasure is a single vineyard Sangiovese named after Ugo Contini Bonacossi, the force behind the modern Capezzana estate who sadly passed away in 2013. The production is small, fewer than 3,000 bottles a year, because only the best grapes from this vineyard that Ugo loved go into the wine. The taut and muscular 2018 is magical, displaying minerality and purity. Its firm, but not hard, structure is what you would expect from a young Sangiovese-based wine from a great site. It is statuesque without being flashy. It demands attention without being overt or flamboyant. Enlivening Tuscan acidity amplifies its youthful charms. I would be sure to save a space for it in the cellar and revisit it in a decade.
96 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023
White:
Capezzana, Vin Santo di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Riserva 2015 ($90, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  The bottles were opened at least a dozen yards away, but the aromas of apricots and nuts stopped all conversation as people looked for the source of the wondrous aromas. Vin Santo is a curious wine, this one especially. The Trebbiano grapes are harvested before they are fully ripe during the second week of September. Then, they are dried on mats or hanging by wires in an attic until December or January. You might think the drying process is controlled by a computer program. No, the winemaker, Benedetta Contini Bonacossi, controls the drying process by opening and closing windows depending on the weather! After pressing and fermentation, the wine remains untouched in 50 to 100-liter barrels for seven years, during which time it loses about half its volume from evaporation — the Angel’s share. The remaining earthly share is truly heavenly. What’s remarkable is not the sweetness or the richness or the complexity, of which there is plenty, but the acidity. Wow! This sweet wine is not cloying, just exhilarating because of its liveliness and freshness. It is a perfect match for cheeses or just by itself.
96 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023
California:
Red:
Terratorium Wines, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Franc 2021 ($40):  Cabernet Franc is often an underappreciated wine, but the 2021 Terratorium Cabernet Franc is worthy of your attention. It opens with lush aromas of brambly berries that set the stage for flavors that coat the taste buds with waves of black cherries, blackberries, green peppercorn, and damp soil. The flavors are intertwined with the lift, freshness, poise, and purity that one should demand from Cabernet Franc. It can easily age for another several years, but there is no need to wait.
93 Miranda Franco Mar 28, 2023
Moraga, Bel Air (California) Red 2017 ($174):  In a contemporaneous review for a Trump wine, I note my thoughts on separating wine reviews from political views. OK, this winery is owned by Rupert Murdoch, hardly my favorite media baron, but the winery makes very good wine. It also professes to be the only active winery within Los Angeles, sitting on a mountain across the interstate from the Getty Museum in the Bel Air section. The wine is quite delicious, and it holds its taste overnight with little change, which augurs well for long aging. It is a dense wine in texture – muddled is the word that comes to mind – with excellent mulberry and other red fruit flavors. It also has deft oak treatment, with the flavors blending nicely into the wine, and it has pleasant, relatively mild dusty tannins.
94 Roger Morris Mar 28, 2023
Jeff Runquist, Clarksburg (Yolo County, California) Cabernet Franc Salman Vineyard 2021 ($28):  Bursting with varietal character, this Cabernet Franc shows another facet of Jeff Runquist as a winemaker. Here he exerts minimal “house influence” and lets the wine sing its own song – a soaring melody of cherry, dried herbs, and gentle oak spice that ride freshening acidity through a long finish. It is fully integrated already, and will continue to gain complexity over the next few years. This is a great addition to an already amazing lineup.
95 Rich Cook Mar 28, 2023
Nello Olivo, El Dorado (Sierra Foothills, California) Barbera 2020 ($34):  Yes, 2020 will be remembered for fires that wiped a good portion of the red wine from California off the map, but intrepid aficionados know that there are always exceptions in any vintage that are worth seeking out. That’s the case here, brought forth in a sadly underappreciated variety by the folks at Nello Olivo. It is made in a lusty style but still shows restraint and poise, with a characteristic freshness that keeps things fun throughout. It has age-worthy structure as well. Perfectly ripe, and perfectly delicious.
95 Rich Cook Mar 28, 2023
Modus Operandi Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($115):  Olive-like and herbal nuances balance the dense black cassis-like fruit in this rich and concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon. This muscle-bound wine carries its 15.5% stated alcohol easily. An alluring hint of tarriness enhances the long and enveloping finish. With a luxuriously suave texture, this archetypal Napa Cabernet would be an excellent choice with a char-broiled steak tonight.
92 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023
Modus Operandi Cellars, Petaluma Gap (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Gap's Crown Vineyard 2021 ($85):  Judging from the two Pinot Noir and one Cabernet Sauvignon that I tasted, Modus Operandi favors a bold style of wine. Savory nuances add balance to this ripe,15 percent stated-alcohol, black-fruited beauty. Despite the savory notes, it comes across as slightly riper and bolder than their Vicarious bottling. A plush texture makes it easy to enjoy now for those who favor a richer style of Pinot Noir. Like their "Vicarious" bottling, this one from Gap’s Crown Vineyard finishes with a hint of sweetness. It would be a good foil for a hearty stew.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023
Modus Operandi Cellars, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Vicarious” 2020 ($35):  Focusing on the fruity, rather than savory, side of Pinot Noir, this ready-to-drink wine delivers ripe dark plum-like notes. This broad-shouldered wine is suavely textured with adequate acidity to balance its ripe black fruit profile. It finishes with the barest hint of sweetness. People who like ripe and concentrated Pinot Noir with embrace it.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 28, 2023
Smith-Madrone, Spring Mountain District - Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($64):  First the review notes, then the commentary. I find the wine enjoyable, one with bright red berries and green herbal flavors – greenbriers, not mint or eucalyptus, come to mind – with good weight and a lean structure. Having said that, there are those who will not prefer the wine because of these green notes, which they equate (rightly or wrongly) with early-picked fruit. I drank Bordeaux reds from the 1970s and grew to accept that green tartness, which some see as a winemaking flaw. I do not, but instead see it as a conscious preference of the winemaker, as other Smith-Madrone Cabs I have tasted also have these green notes. To me, it is part of a spectrum – some grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère have a tendency to harbor these flavors. While I don’t prefer them, I do like them. And I don’t see them as flawed.
90 Roger Morris Mar 28, 2023
Sparkling:
J Vineyards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Brut Rosé NV ($45):  J Vineyards Brut Rosé is one of the most pleasurable, versatile, and satisfying sparkling wines imaginable. With an inviting pink color (not too pale, not too flashy) it has just the right fruit and acid balance to be refreshing on its own, yet it also is endowed with enough structure to make it an elegant companion to food including anything from the sea (especially oysters and other shellfish), poultry, and a variety of vegetable and grain-based dishes. As a plus, in the interest of experimentation I learned that this remarkably satisfying and long-lived fizz can retain its sparkle even after spending five days in the refrigerator.
93 Marguerite Thomas Mar 28, 2023
White:
Diora, Monterey (California) Chardonnay “La Splendeur Du Soleil” 2021 ($20):  Diora’s “La Splendeur Du Soleil” is a fabulous value in a rich, flavorful Chardonnay that hails from the banks of the Salinas River just south of King City in Monterey County. It leans into the tropical side of the variety, showing passion fruit and mango aromas and flavors, tempered by lemon crème and just the right acidity to keep things crisp and creamy. Winemaker James Ewart has really dialed this bottling in, and the low price is a big bonus.
94 Rich Cook Mar 28, 2023
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New York:
White:
Forge Cellars, Seneca Lake (Finger Lakes, New York) Chardonnay Caywood Vineyard 2021 ($28):  After producing some of the Finger Lakes’ best Riesling for over a decade, Forge Cellars maked their first Chardonnay. The fruit is sourced from 50+ year old Caywood Vineyard vines. Located on the eastern side of Seneca Lake, the area is locally called the “banana belt” because it is noticeably warmer than anywhere else in the area. As temperatures cool, Seneca Lake’s deep reservoir acts like a heat sump, giving off warmth and extending the growing season. The longer season, in turn, enables further ripening of the fruit — a key for Forge Cellars as they are usually the last winery to harvest in the region. Forge’s light-handed approach, including the use of neutral oak, provides an old-world styled wine that focuses on the fruit, acidity, and integration. Knowing the winemaking team at Forge, their Chardonnay will only get better as they methodically improve their winemaking vintage after vintage.
90 Vince Simmon Mar 28, 2023
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Virginia:
Sparkling:
Trump Winery, Monticello (Virginia) Blanc de Noir 2016 ($55):  I believe in cancel culture, boycotts, labor strikes and peaceful demonstrations, while realizing that can work both ways. And I politically hate almost everything about winery owner, Donald Trump, including the fact he doesn’t drink wine. That said, I remember when this winery was owned by Patricia Kluge, an ultra-liberal Democrat fund-raiser, and I liked the wines then. And I still do. And I see nothing wrong with objectively reviewing their wines, even though I wouldn’t buy them for my own cellar. The fact is this is a quite enjoyable wine, more like classic Champagne than are most California sparklers. It has lots of apple fruits with a crisp, metallic minerality that makes the taste linger and linger, and the structure is impeccable. If you’re still with me, check out my review of Moraga Bel Air Red Wine.
93 Roger Morris Mar 28, 2023
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Washington:
Red:
Soléna Estate, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Klipsun Vineyard 2018 ($60):  Planted in the early 1980s, Klipsun is one of the big names today in single vineyard Cabernet, and this rendition from Soléna should validate its reputation. Loaded with ripe blackberry and cassis, this is a big, bold Cabernet. On the palate it is medium-full bodied with compact fruit flavors along with hints of chocolate and light toasty oak. Sturdy in structure, it is rich and powerful but balanced with definite tannins. Finishing with chocolate and spice, it needs to be cellared and should reach its peak a decade from now.
92 Norm Roby Mar 28, 2023
Cavatappi Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Nebbiolo Red Willow Vineyard “Maddalena” 2016 ($32):  In the early 1970s Cavatappi encouraged Mike Sauer of Red Willow to plant Nebbiolo along with other Italian varieties. That was the first Nebbiolo planted in the Northwest. Today this bottling remains one of the very few 100% Nebbiolos made there. If you like tasting unusual wines, then here’s a wine that when first poured looks like an anemic old wine due to its brick red color. But then with a little airing, it opens up to reveal full on plum and spice aromatics with some background notes of licorice and earthiness. Then, on the palate, it is surprisingly compact with good ripe fruit flavors and balancing acidity. Nicely textured, it finishes with some grip. Yes, it is odd on its own, but a good food companion. Cavatappi wines are made in Walla Walla and the brand belongs to the Seattle-based Precept company, owner of Canoe Ridge and others.
90 Norm Roby Mar 28, 2023
Syncline Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Subduction Red” 2020 ($27):  Started in 1999, Syncline is located along the Columbia River in the Columbia Gorge AVA. The winery was built in 2003 and 17 acres were developed adjacent to the winery and overlooking the river. Today the winery focuses on a range of Rhone wines. “Subduction” 2020 is a blend of 49% Mourvedre, 25% Syrah and 25% Carignan, and the winemaking goal is like a Côtes du Rhône, versatile in style. It certainly comes across as a ready-to-drink Rhône style wine with juicy black cherry fruit and very soft, smooth tannins. On the palate, the flavors lean toward raspberry and light spice in an altogether uncomplicated but savory package.
88 Norm Roby Mar 28, 2023
DeLille Cellars, Yakima Valley (Washington) “Minuit” 2019 ($60):  DeLille Cellars sources their fruit from some of the best vineyards in Washington. Their Minuit’s 70% Malbec is sourced from Red Willow and Quintessence Vineyards and its 30% Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from the Quintessence Vineyard. Both vineyards have recognizable names in the Washington wine scene. DeLille is declassifying their Red Mountain fruit, sourced from Quintessence Vineyard, to get the flavor and complexity they’re seeking. The Red Willow fruit from Yakima gives the wine more red fruit notes and softens the darker, denser notes from Red Mountain. I found the wine as one of my favorites from a recent DeLille lineup with chocolate covered blueberry and açai berry being the key notes that kept me coming back sip after sip. If you find yourself with a bottle, you can cellar it or you can enjoy the whole bottle. I don’t think there is an intermediate option, it’s too good.
93 Vince Simmon Mar 28, 2023
White:
DeLille Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) “Chaleur Blanc” 2021 ($42):  DeLille Cellars is easily one of the top producers in Washington State and their wines are a favorite in my book. Their Chaleur Blanc is a classic Bordeaux blend of Sauvignon Blanc (67%) and Sémillon (33%). The Washington sun ripens the fruit well past anything from Bordeaux with tropical papaya, green mango, and starfruit notes. DeLille uses French oak and lees aging to add complexity, giving the wine a round creamy flavor that compliments the fruit nicely. While I have aged several bottles, this wine is enjoyable and accessible in its youth.
91 Vince Simmon Mar 28, 2023
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