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Bordeaux:
Red:
Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($62):  Intensely perfumed aromas of ripe plum, blackberry, espresso, dried tobacco, and bacon fat. A mix of sweet and savory flavors explode on the palate, mingling spicy black fruit with mocha, leather, and a salty dash of beef jerky. Ripe powdery tannins provide structure to the rich and opulent midpalate and the wine finishes long and dry with hints of chocolate and charred wood. Drink now or keep in the cellar for the next 10 to 15 years.
94 Pam Roberto Jul 23, 2024
Tertre-Roteboeuf, Saint-Émilion (Bordeaux, France) 2020 ($219):  The gorgeous nose opens with fragrant black cherry, plum, damp earth, cedar, and smoky tobacco aromas. Lush and decadent, the wine’s fresh acidity balances its youthful intensity and dense concentration, and fine-grained tannins and seamlessly integrated oak provide ample structure. The palate brims with juicy blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate, and truffles, all of which flicker and dart throughout the sublimely persistent finish. This vintage would benefit from another year or two in bottle before drinking and will cellar well for another two decades.
97 Pam Roberto Jul 23, 2024
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Loire Valley:
Red:
Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre Rouge (Loire Valley, France) “La Demoiselle” 2019 ($75, Palomar Beverage Company):  As early as 1513, the Mellot family was involved in growing wine grapes and making wine. In 1668, César Mellot was appointed as Wine Advisor to Louis XIV. Alphonse Mello created a tavern in Sancerre, and in 1881 he got a license to ship his wine. Today the family continues the business creating wines like this single variety food-friendly Pinot Noir from the La Demoiselle Vineyard with a dark ruby color with aromas and flavors of intense blackberry and black cherry with light chalky, floral, and citrus notes.
96 Rebecca Murphy Jul 23, 2024
White:
Joseph Mellot, Menetou-Salon (Loire Valley, France) Clos du Pressoir 2022 ($15, Bichot USA):  Put this wine on your shopping list for your summer house wine. It is bright, light, and dry with juicy, citrus flavors and a gentle edge of flintiness. Serve it as an aperitif before dinner or for a picnic or just because. Pierre-Etienne Mellot established the family estate in 1513. Auberge Joseph Mellot, the first restaurant in Sancerre, was opened in 1882. In the 1960s the family opened a wine store and Joseph began building sales in Europe. A family split in 1969 divided the family vineyards and the winery was renamed Joseph Mellot. The grapes come from the Menetou-Salon wine region located near the end of Loire River in France where the soils are made of Kimmeridgian marls and limestone. If you want to know more about Kimmeridgian soils, check out the column by my WineReviewOnline colleague Wayne Belding, “The Kimmeridgian Exposed and Explained.”
94 Rebecca Murphy Jul 23, 2024
Alto Adige:
White:
Albino Armani, Valdadige DOC (Trentino-Alto Adige, Veneto, Italy ) Pinot Grigio “Corvara” 2022 ($22, Clay Street Imports):  Albino Armani has been making wine in Alto Adige for over 400 years. Valdadige DOC’s growing conditions – elevation, constant winds, and large diurnal temperature shifts – help Pinot Grigio retain its acidity while developing both orchard fruit and tropical flavors. At $22, this is an easy-going Pinot Grigio, but also one that has clear quality marks to put it above average in my book.
89 Vince Simmon Jul 23, 2024
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Friuli Venezia Giulia:
White:
Albino Armani, Friuli Grave DOC (Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy) Pinot Grigio 2022 ($14, Clay Street Imports):  One of Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s largest sub-regions, Friuli Grave is particularly renowned for mineral renditions of Pinot Grigio. The Pinot Grigios are often made with lees aging, battonage, and, sometimes, oak use. These winemaking choices often provide complexity to a variety that can already demonstrate flavor depth, thanks to the presence of minerality. Albino Armani’s 2022 Pinot Grigio shows both orchard and tropical fruit notes, particularly ones that recall nectarine, star fruit, red apple, and pear. In addition to minerality, the wine has a nice floral undertone. Albino Armani’s winemaking choices give the wine a rounded body which presents softly on the palate. Pair this with gnocchi in a light white sauce for a classic Friulian meal.
90 Vince Simmon Jul 23, 2024
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Marche:
White:
La Staffa, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Riserva DOCG (Marche, Italy) “Rincrocca” 2020 ($40, Le Storie Wines):  Winemaker Riccardo Baldi is a rising star in Le Marche, known for his exceptional work with the Verdicchio grape. His La Staffa 2020 “Rincrocca” presents a rich golden hue and an effusive bouquet of salty peach, quince, and crushed oyster shell. Its racing acidity, accented by lime zest and bitter almond, balances an exquisite, creamy texture with a long finish. Like a fine Chablis, this wine is a natural choice with oysters or rich, creamy dishes that demand a high-acid counterpart.
93 Miranda Franco Jul 23, 2024
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Tuscany:
Red:
San Felice, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Vigorello” 2020 ($67, Total Beverage Solutions):  An interesting Toscana IGT blend with Pugnitello as the lead grape and almost equal amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, San Felice's Vigorello is a very pleasant and satisfying wine, though not a very complex one. It features a red fruitiness with a hint of black fruits in the finish, a touch of earthiness, well-integrated tannins, and a crisp finish.
91 Roger Morris Jul 23, 2024
Red:
L.A. Cetto, Guadalupe Valley (Baja California, Mexico) Tempranillo “Sierra Blanca” 2021 ($19, Beso Imports):  The Cetto family, originally from northern Italy, has been making wine in Mexico for several generations. Their elegant “Sierra Blanca” Tempranillo boasts aromas and flavors of rich red and black fruits, hints of savory smoke, and a touch of toasty oak that adds a subtle note of spice. This refreshing, easy-drinking wine has a medium-plus body, soft ripe tannins, and a wave of freshness that lends buoyancy to the palate. It pairs beautifully with tamales, especially meat tamales, as the saturated fruit flavors complement the tamales’ sweet and earthy notes.
90 Miranda Franco Jul 23, 2024
Vinos Zanzonico, Valle de la Grulla (Baja California, Mexico) Syrah Reserva 2020 ($53, Beso Imports):  A beautiful, fruit-driven Syrah that winemaker Gerard Zanzonico says, “pairs well with a hammock” may have you hanging one in your backyard after getting a taste. Grown in sandy, well-drained soils south of Ensenada, it shows bold black and blue fruit and a gentle savory note on the nose, leading to palate impressions in which savory character shows a little more, joining the fruit as a rich complement. Bright pepper suggestions arrive in the finish. This is inky, seductive and very long, with excellent balance and weight with no heaviness. Great stuff!
95 Rich Cook Jul 23, 2024
Pays Basque:
Rosé:
Rekalde, Getaria Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) Txakoli Rosé "RK" 2023 ($20, Summit Selections):  This Getariako Txakolina Rosé hails from the region around the town of Getaria, renowned for its wines' light natural carbonation. The "RK" is part of the expanding category of Txakolina Rosés, which largely emerged over the last decade or so, gaining popularity in the United States thanks to Ameztoi's Rubentis Rosé. This wine is tart and refreshing, gently spritzy, with chalky flavors of citrus and red fruits. Its lively acidity and effervescence make it an excellent pairing for seafood dishes, light salads, and tapas. The unique character of the "RK" captures the essence of Getaria's coastal vineyards.
90 Miranda Franco Jul 23, 2024
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Rias Baixas:
White:
Pazo de Lusco, Rías Baixas (Spain) Albariño 2023 ($25, Gonzalez Byass):  I am probably rating this lees-aged Albariño higher than my colleagues, but I find it is both delicious and intriguing. It has great depth of textures and complexity, one of those wines that reveals flavors one note at a time as they cross the palate – first a little whey, then tangy spiciness followed by a green, but very ripe, fruitiness. Very satisfying and long on the palate.
93 Roger Morris Jul 23, 2024
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Rioja:
Red:
Bodegas Ollauri, Rioja (La Rioja Spain) “Conde de los Andes” 2016 ($55, Quintessential Wines):  This all-Tempranillo release is very impressive, with formidable density, excellent depth of flavor, and fine balance of fruit in relation to oak, tannin, and acidity. It would come off as being heavy or over-ripe from its powerful initial palate impression, yet the wine shows as much lift in the progression of sensory impressions as it does ballast from its concentration and oak load. The fruit tones are decidedly dark rather than red, which makes sense in relation to its appearance and overall power. As good as it tastes now, it will surely become much better if cellared for at least another five years to allow tertiary characters to emerge from time in bottle. When that occurs (as it inevitably will), this will develop from two-dimensional impressiveness into three-dimensional excellence, with complexity that enhances its currently symmetrical muscularity.
94 Michael Franz Jul 23, 2024
Viña Otano, Rioja (La Rioja Spain) Graciano 2018 ($42, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This house releases a wide range of wines including traditional bottlings as well as single-variety reds and superb aged whites. The potential excellence of Graciano as a stand-alone variety has been slowly coming to awareness among lovers of Spanish wines, but only because producers like this are providing it with a solo turn. The 2018 release is sourced from 50+ year old, head pruned vines, and was aged for 24 months in French oak. This will be something new for most who taste it, and a delightful surprise, as it shows Graciano’s ability to combine dark color, dark fruit tones, and a touch of savory earthiness along with bright, lifted acidity and excellent freshness. There’s a lot of fine-grained tannin offering grip in the finish, so this isn’t a red wine for fish, but neither does it require a rack or leg of lamb. I’ve only seen one other review of this wine, written by John Gillman in his View from the Cellar publication. I’ve never met him, but often find my ratings very close to him, though we differ markedly in our recommendations regarding when wines will be ready for enjoyment and when that window may close. For this already-enjoyable wine, his recommendation is to hold until 2030 (by which time I may be dead), with a back-end date of “2075+” (by which time our entire species may have vanished from the earth). Only time will tell, so buy at least two bottles and bequeath one to a grandchild to give to an offspring to try. Gillman is good, so let’s hope someone can beam results to us when we’re off in the Great Beyond!
93 Michael Franz Jul 23, 2024
Viña Otano, Rioja Gran Reserva (La Rioja, Spain) 2016 ($45, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This wine has been very good in every vintage I’ve tasted but I’m particularly enamored with this 2016, which shows marvelous balance in more than one respect: It is ripe and generous in flavor, yet on the light-ish side of normal for it in terms of physical weight; moreover, it offers very open fruit flavors, but is also very savory and spicy, depending on which aspect one chooses to focus upon. Its excellence is evident in the bouquet, flavors and finish, and the even-ness of its performance is a testament to the work that was done in both the vineyard and winery. A second look 24 hours after first tasting it confirms all of the foregoing praise. Rioja Gran Reserva is a challenging category for those new to Spanish wines, as there are barrel factories cranking out examples for $20 or less, but also magnificent wines costing $90 or more. Good values and rip-offs can be found at every point in that range, but for novices, don’t give up: Just rely on producer reputation which, as in Burgundy and in this case, will steer you to success. This 2016 is ultra-classy, showing a new dimension almost every time one returns to the glass over more than a full day.
95 Michael Franz Jul 23, 2024
California:
Red:
Seghesio Family Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel Cortina 2022 ($50):  Seghesio's Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel from the Cortina Vineyard is a mellow wine with harmonious red fruit flavors mixed in with some tangy and savory notes. This is a little more assertive, a little tangier and a little more tannic that the Seghesio Sonoma County Zinfandel, but I might be convinced to buy the latter at half the price.
92 Roger Morris Jul 23, 2024
Beringer Vineyards, Knights Valley - Sonoma County (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Beringer Estates Selection 2021 ($40):  An old reliable from Sonoma County that tastes more like Napa Valley – although not priced that way – Beringer's Knights Valley Cabernet is very smooth with a creamy middle body of blackberry fruit, yet still pleasingly lean, and a hint of bacon in the finish with nice tannins. This would be a great house wine for weekend entertaining at an affordable price.
92 Roger Morris Jul 23, 2024
Calera, Mt. Harlan (San Benito County, California) Pinot Noir Reed Vineyard 2021 ($95):  Once again the Reed Vineyard Pinot turns out to be my favorite of the Calera single vineyard offerings, and a fine vintage gives it an extra boost over its normal beautiful self. Vividly colored, it shows lively cherry, dried leaves, damp earth and five spice aromas that translate with unity on the palate, with bright acidic drive that pushes the finish well into the distance. It is at the start of a very long and interesting life – expect peak in five years or so and hold as long as fifteen. Stellar Pinot Noir!
97 Rich Cook Jul 23, 2024
Calera, Mt. Harlan (San Benito County, California) Pinot Noir Jensen Vineyard 2021 ($125):  The Jensen Vineyard is the flagship of the fine line of Pinot Noirs from this legacy producer, and it is usually one that needs some further bottle aging – I always hate going in early on it, but a job is a job. Rest assured that the usual quality is here, with taut cherry, rhubarb, ripe strawberry and dry earth minerality that are headed for beauty at the extreme end of the scale. Decant if you must drink early – a full day would be just about right.
96 Rich Cook Jul 23, 2024
Calera, Mt. Harlan (San Benito County, California) Pinot Noir de Villiers Vineyard 2021 ($95):  Calera's de Villiers Vineyard Pinot Noir shows a little reduction on the first nosing, so give this a vigorous decanting to blow that off before getting serious. Serious is what you will want to get with this for all its black cherry, sage, and oak spice. Best to cellar this a few years before going in to get at all its charms -- there is lots of sexy oak that will take a while to integrate.
95 Rich Cook Jul 23, 2024
Cattleya, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2022 ($65):  Cattleya's 2022 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir represents its appellation well, with cherry, cola and raspberry joined by pulsing fall spice notes and moderate oak toast. All the elements are in tune, and they ride out together through a long finish that’s already quite integrated. It is perfectly ready to drink now with a short decanting, or age it five to ten years of pleasurable evolution.
93 Rich Cook Jul 23, 2024
Cattleya, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Syrah “The Initiation” 2022 ($70):  Stand by for your initiation – to great Syrah that is just that, if you aren’t already a fan of the variety. This has everything I love about Syrah – brooding black and blue fruit, savory meaty notes, a dash of black pepper, some dried herbs and some crushed rock mineral. Rich and concentration with bright acid, supple grip and a savory finish that goes on and on. It stands out among the brand’s line of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and that’s saying something! Alban Clone 1.
96 Rich Cook Jul 23, 2024
White:
Verdad Wines, Ballard Canyon (Santa Barbara County, California) Sauvignon Blanc Rusack Vineyard 2023 ($35):  This is the inaugural Sauvignon Blanc from Louisa Sawyer who sourced the fruit from the Rusack Vineyard which meets her requirements for being certified organic and for an ability to retain good natural acidity. The Sauvignon vines are also 20 years old. She fermented the juice entirely in stainless steel to allow the site to shine through. The aroma is vibrant, with lots of melon fruit along with figs and flinty-chalky hints. Medium bodied with similar melon flavors, it has a pleasant roundness in the middle palate before the acidity kicks in to bring it to a crisp finish.
93 Norm Roby Jul 23, 2024
Justin, Central Coast (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($18):  The Sauvignon Blanc grapes came from several different vineyards located in a broad area stretching from the Ventura area to Monterey, California, with different soil types and growing conditions to provide layers of flavors. The newly harvested grape clusters were pressed and fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel tanks avoiding malolactic fermentation. The wine has a pale-yellow color with aromas and flavors of fresh citrus and white peach with subtle dusty mineral notes. It is fresh and lively with crisp acidity, prefect as a warm weather beverage at a picnic.
90 Rebecca Murphy Jul 23, 2024
Cattleya, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Cuvée Number Five” 2022 ($65):  You will want to give this wine some time in your cellar. Some grip shows real age-worthiness, and it will be worth waiting for it to fully integrate. Apple, herbs, soft spice and oak toast are just starting to come together, and they will do so with style. That said, it is perfectly ok to decant this a while to open it up. Contains clones 76, 95 and Old Wente.
93 Rich Cook Jul 23, 2024
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New York:
Red:
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes (New York) Saperavi 2021 ($30):  Eastern wine growers have had a great time being able to sort through various grape varieties from around the world that seem to fit their terroir while pleasing their clientele. This has led up to delightful choices of virtually unknown grapes, such as Petite Manseng, and somewhat neglected grapes on the West Coast, such as Cabernet Franc. Saperavi from Georgia and Ukraine seems to be the new darling of upstate New York, but I remain to be convinced. This one seems to be a quaffing wine – light red fruit without much gravitas, but with nice spicy and savory notes.
89 Roger Morris Jul 23, 2024
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Oregon:
Red:
Ricochet Wine Co., Oregon (United States) Red Blend 2022 ($20):  Ricochet was established in 2018 by Eric Berg. He has bounced around a bit, first working for Domaine Serene and others, then taking time off because of an injury to become an English teacher. Returning to Oregon he worked his way up to become the associate winemaker with Illahe Vineyards. With Ricochet he’s focusing on affordable wines and one of them is this eclectic, unprecedented blend. It breaks down to 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Syrah, and 20% Tempranillo. And in a strange way, it is a success. The aroma is Pinot-like with cherries and a bit of rose petal, and the flavors in this medium bodied wine show a little Syrah muscle and juicy fruit. Then the finish reveals some sage and leathery Tempranillo components. Overall, a pleasant refreshing and ready to drink red with some character.
90 Norm Roby Jul 23, 2024
White:
Iterum, Eola-Amity Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Sauvignon Blanc Oak Grove Vineyard "Old Friend" 2023 ($50):  Iterum’s Joe Dobbes continues working with Willamette Valley Sauvignon Blanc that he predicts will eventually be “world class.” He first worked with Oak Grove’s Sauvignon Blanc in 1989 and remembered it for being so distinctive. Back then, he was teaming up with Ken Wright at Eola-Hills Wine Cellars. In 2023 he secured enough fruit to make 125 cases. Half of the wine was fermented in Acacia barrels with 25% being new French Acacia. Aged 7 months before bottling, the wine needs no time to reveal its kinship with Sancerre. It offers intense aromatics of green apple, lime, and flint. The flavors continue the highly charged, brisk theme with citrus and lychee balancing the mineral and flinty notes. Nicely textured probably from the Acacia barrels, it concludes on a lingering, palate cleansing note that says bring on the goat cheese. Not your casual sipping wine, it definitely shows its best attributes with food.
94 Norm Roby Jul 23, 2024
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Washington:
Red:
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot “Indian Wells” 2020 ($24):  With 24 months in 47% new French oak, the Indian Wells Merlot sees more oak than either Chateau Ste Michelle’s Canoe Ridge or Block 9 Merlots. Its powerful Washington fruit core helps the wine absorb and balance the oak’s vanilla and chocolate notes. This is a good option for folks looking for big red wine and its grippy tannins make it an easy pairing for a hearty steak.
88 Vince Simmon Jul 23, 2024
Red:
Tertre-Roteboeuf, Saint-Émilion (Bordeaux, France) 2010 ($259):  2010 was a stellar vintage in Bordeaux and an excellent one for Tertre-Roteboeuf. Before your nose even reaches the glass, you are met with a seductive mix of blackberries, kirsch, clove, violet, balsamic, truffle, mocha, sweet tobacco, and smoky cedar. Rich and voluptuous on the palate, the wine has a silky texture, ripe velvety tannins, and a freshness that balances and masks any perception of the high alcohol (listed at 15.5%). Waves of dried berries, hickory, and truffle linger throughout the massive savory and sweet finish. It is drinking beautifully now but has at least another decade of aging potential.
99 Pam Roberto Jul 23, 2024
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