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Mendoza:
Red:
Hoffmann Vineyards, Lujan de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec & Cabernet “Rufous Red” 2021 ($20):  Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon (here a 65/35 blend) can play exceptionally well together when carefully blended, and this is a nice example. It is a bit brooding, but promises to loosen up with a little more time in the bottle. It’s all dark side in character – black fruit, tar, pepper and some well folded charred oak – which would make it a perfect foil for the typical Argentine parilla platter of well-done meats. A fine value!
93 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Animal, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($25, Vineyard Brands):  This is an interesting wine in that it is somewhat different from the standard Cabernet, but that difference doesn’t completely transfer to being a wine I would want to linger over. The flavors of elderberry, some brandied cherries and garrigue-like spiciness are very rounded and not linear as we have in most Cabernets, so it seems to be a bit short. That said, it is much better than most $25 Cabernets.
89 Roger Morris Sep 10, 2024
White:
Tyrrell’s, Hunter Valley (Australia) Semillon “Winemaker’s Selection, Vat 1” 2017 ($59, Broadbent Selections):  The Semillon grape seldom gets to play the leading role in wine. Fortunately, vintners in the Hunter Valley of Australia have created a star in this single variety, unoaked wine with flavors of lemon, white grapefruit, Meyer lemon zest, and white peach with a touch of beeswax. With its cheerful freshness and liveliness, it belies its seven years of age and promises years of positive development to come. Australia’s Hunter Valley is the birthplace of the country’s wine industry in the early 1820’s. In 1823, the Busby family moved from Scotland to Australia where, because they were considered free settlers, they were allotted a plot of land in the Hunter Valley. In 1831 James Busby, considered the “Father of Australian Wine,” collected grape cuttings in Europe and South Africa to plant vineyards.
93 Rebecca Murphy Sep 10, 2024
Burgundy:
White:
Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon, Pouilly-Fuissé en Chatenay (Mâconnais, Burgundy, France) 2020 ($65, Skurnik Wines):  Founded in 1999 by Dominique Lafon, Héritiers du Comte Lafon is his biodynamic Mâconnais domaine. His 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé en Chatenay is a beautifully rich yet balanced wine, offering vibrant notes of lemon, mandarin, stone fruits, and freshly baked bread. Its mineral backbone, a hallmark of the Mâcon’s limestone-rich soils, shines through. The texture is soft and mouth-coating, while the long, mineral-driven finish, with hints of sea salt, is framed by bright, lively acidity that adds freshness and precision.
93 Miranda Franco Sep 10, 2024
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Champagne:
Sparkling:
Ayala, Champagne (France) “A/18” Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut 2018 ($130, Vintus):  Curiously, the Ayala Champagne house, founded by a Columbian, Edmond de Ayala, is located in the town of Aÿ. Paradoxically, Aÿ, a town in the Vallée de la Marne, is known for great Pinot Noir, while Ayala’s focus is on Chardonnay. Curiosities and paradoxes notwithstanding, Ayala’s flagship bottling, A/18 Blanc de Blanc, is stunning! Made entirely from Chardonnay grown in four Grand Cru villages, which, by definition, are rated 100% (Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger) and two Premier Cru villages that are rated 95% (Bisseuil and Cuis), Ayala’s A/18 delivers both power and elegance. There is a beguiling hint of brioche and real depth. It explodes and expands on the palate, then finishes with a steely spine that amplifies it charms. If your budget includes super-premium or tête du cuvée Champagne, this is one to get.
96 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2024
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Languedoc:
Rosé:
Les Jamelles, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Languedoc, France) “Reflets Secrets” Rosé 2023 ($20):  In its extensive portfolio of wines, Les Jamelles (which was founded in the early 1990s) now offers seven different Rosés. From its 25+ years of Rosé experience in the Languedoc, the winery created this bottling as its signature. And the secret part of the name, they say, refers to the use of Mourvèdre added to the typical blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault. So, no longer a secret, these four are fermented separately, then blended and aged on the lees for 6 months. The result is a wine that’s light pink in color and charming. Rose petal and red berry aromas are bright and lively. The strawberry flavors sweep across the palate with a touch of citrus and light pepper. Pleasing, lingering finish. No secret here; this is an excellent Rosé.
93 Norm Roby Sep 10, 2024
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Provence:
Rosé:
Mathilde Chapoutier, Côtes de Provence (France) “Orsuro” Rosé 2022 ($20):  Vinified in the Chapoutier facility in Tain, Mathilde wines are imported by Michael Mondavi Family. This 2022 release brings together Grenache and Syrah with a drop or two of Cinsault and Rolle. After being night harvested and cold fermented, the wine is aged in stainless for 5 months. Pale pink, it offers a pleasing, delicate aroma of watermelon with a floral note. Light and vibrant on the palate, it pleases with its direct, gentle flavors.
88 Norm Roby Sep 10, 2024
Friuli:
White:
Livio Felluga, Friuli Colli Orientali (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Curubella” 2020 ($93, Maisons, Marques & Domaines):  The Livio Felluga 2020 Friuli Colli Orientali Pinot Grigio Curubella displays a coppery hue, or "ramato" in Italian, thanks to minimal skin contact. Aged in amphorae, it develops a textural richness rarely found in standard Pinot Grigio. This depth carries through to both the aromas and flavors, where notes of peach skin, mandarin, grapefruit, and a hint of spicy saffron burst forth. It is a striking example of the traditional Pinot Grigio style that has defined the region for centuries.
93 Miranda Franco Sep 10, 2024
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Piedmont:
Red:
Rocche Costamagna, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata 2020 ($60):  Ian D’Agata, an Italian wine authority who has forgotten more about Italian wines than I know, says in Barolo: Terroir, Grapes, Crus, People, Places (2022), “I think Rocche Dell’Annunziata is one of Barolo’s best vineyard areas, a true Grand Cru if there ever was one.” Rocche Costamagna’s rendition shows the elegance of wines from La Morra, home to this vineyard. A pale color is misleading, as the wine packs plenty of character, especially as it sits in the glass. It displays a graceful austerity — it’s not a massive brooding Barolo — with prominent supporting tannins. Youthful, to be sure, the next day it had evolved and expressed itself with an alluring red fruit and earthy mixture. It is an excellent choice for the cellar.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2024
Rocche Costamagna, Barolo Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata “Bricco Francesco” 2016 ($96):  Costamagna’s majestic Riserva, Bricco Francesco, comes from the higher part of Rocche Dell’Annunziata, which most producers believe has better soil and exposure. At eight years of age, its bricky color suggests maturity, but don’t be fooled. At this stage, engaging floral notes are apparent, followed by mineraly and red fruit nuances. Yet, this Riserva shows youthful and firm, not hard, tannins that suggest it has miles to go before it’s ready. It does reflect the grand nature of the vintage, but still needs another five to ten years to show its real stature.
93 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2024
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Sardinia:
White:
Sella & Mosca, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore DOCG (Sardinia, Italy) “Monteoro” 2023 ($18):  This comes from a truly unique spot in the world. A dash of mint lifts the delicious lemon character up in both aroma and flavor profiles, and time on the lees deepens both the color and the texture. There is a pleasant bittering note – like fresh lime zest that lingers in the finish. This is fine seafood paring partner.
93 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Sella & Mosca, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “La Cala” 2023 ($16):  Yum! Lemon – lemon blossom, lemon oil, lemon zest, a dash of pith, and hints of lanolin and ambergris. I can picture Alghero while sipping this – the sandy beaches and the beautiful Sella Mosca property. A true sense of place abounds in this wine, and at a bargain price, which is a rare thing.
92 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
White:
Quinta de Gomariz, Vinho Verde (Portugal) Loureiro 2023 ($16, P.R. Grisley):  Quinta de Gomariz is a leading estate at the forefront of Vinho Verde's revitalization. Made from 100% Loureiro, this wine stands out from the typical Vinho Verde blends. Crisp, fresh, and delightfully dry, it is a perfect refresher. On the nose, it is bright and floral, with honeyed orange blossom aromas, while the palate is soft, featuring notes of citrus and pear. Its low alcohol enhances its refreshing character, making it an ideal choice for sipping on the porch during these last warm days of summer. For those seeking a wine that embodies the essence of Portugal's winemaking tradition, this is a splendid choice.
90 Miranda Franco Sep 10, 2024
Penedes:
Sparkling:
Vega Barcelona, Cava (Penedès, Spain) Brut “Selección” NV ($18, Well Oiled Wine Co.):  Vega Barcelona has been making wine since the 19th century. Their Brut Selección Cava is fresh and crisp. Classic red apple, pear, and white peach notes round out with a touch of brioche and fresh honey. This is an anytime, anywhere type of Cava, and comes with a price that doesn’t require much justification.
88 Vince Simmon Sep 10, 2024
California:
Red:
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander’s Crown Vineyard 2019 ($90):  Rodney Strong's Alexander’s Crown Vineyard Cabernet is a very savory wine with blackberry fruitiness – but the blackberries are somewhat muted. The more I tasted, the more I wished for a bit more generosity of fruit, a roundness of flavor, to balance the savory qualities. In sum, a lighter wine, one with smooth tannins in the finish.
90 Roger Morris Sep 10, 2024
Castello di Amorosa, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Pinot Noir Morning Dew Ranch 2022 ($67):  Bright Anderson Valley cherry scents kick things off aromatically, with cinnamon and cardamom spice brightening the fruit. This carries through on the palate, where little tea and fennel notes join in. Mouth-watering acidity keeps the flavor coming through a long, nicely integrated finish. Anderson Valley is the place for Pinot Noir! Fish or fowl on the table with this, please.
94 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Fort Ross, Fort Ross-Seaview, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard 2021 ($54):  Black cherry, cranberry and damp earth tones get things started on the nose here, and they carry through to the palate in bright food friendly style thanks to popping fresh acidity. It is quite dark in color – on the garnet side of the red spectrum, but the flavors are bright and breezy. Give it a good decant if going in young, or cellar for five to ten years. Contains clones 115, Calera, Pommard and Swan.
93 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Barra, Mendocino (California) Pinot Noir Reserve 2022 ($26):  Here is a serious wine at a very unserious price as Pinot Noir goes these days. Sweet cherry fruit aromas and flavors take the wheel, bringing along bright fall spice, moderate wood toast and a dash of stemmy character and a long, lip-smacking finish that will no doubt be on your candidate list for “house wine.” It is a fine solo glass and will run that gamut from fish to fowl to meats of all kinds. Nicely done! Made by Randy Meyer.
91 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Broken Earth, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “CV Studium” Estate Grown 2021 ($80):  I met Ben Mayo at the Orange County Fair some years back when we were judging homemade wines, and we both agreed that a Malvasia Bianca merited a perfect score. I can say I agree with Ben’s choices again, this time on this excellent blend that he made for the winery high line. The blend components not disclosed, but that doesn’t matter much to anyone except us geeks. Such blended offerings have one job – to be delicious – and this succeeds on all fronts. Big, bright, long and satisfying, if in want of a huge slab of beef. Nice work!
94 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Broken Earth, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “CV Reserve” Estate Grown 2019 ($80):  Here is a bold Cabernet Sauvignon with full throttle extraction on display. Blackberry and black currant fruit are almost raisiny, but stop just short thanks to a firm grip, and a menthol note deepens the fruit character. This is just entering its drinking window, and will go long in your cellar. If you appreciate how gigantic Cabernet can get, this one is for you.
92 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Davis Bynum, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir River West Vineyard 2021 ($65):  A very elegant Pinot Noir with juicy flavors and great length on the palate and a lingering dollop of sweet fruitiness. There are some savory hints, and the tannins are balanced. It would have been good to have had a little more complexity of taste to have added some additional intrigue to the wine, but it is quite good as is.
92 Roger Morris Sep 10, 2024
Castello di Amorosa, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Terra de Promissio” 2022 ($75):  A touch of matchstick (a sulphur tell) shows on the initial nose, but it swirls off, exposing cherry, cola, rhubarb, and some dry earth notes both on the nose and in the mouth. A juicy, fully ripe midpalate brightens in the finish thanks to a kiss of acidity. It rides a fine line between taut and plush styles and will work well with both red and white meats.
93 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Obsidian Wine Co, Sonoma Valley (Sonoma County, California) Gamay Noir “Vin Chanmé” 2023 ($38):  Chanmé translates into something surprisingly awesome which is exactly how the Obsidian Wine Co. team felt when they were offered a chance to source Gamay Noir for the delicious wine. Winemaker Casey Graybehl, makes this Vin Chanmé using whole clusters in the carbonic maceration process where the fermentation begins at the intracellular level of the grapes. To add extra concentration, the Obsidian Wine Co. also chooses to use the saignée process, removing some of the juice early in the fermentation process and concentrating the remaining juice with the whole berries and skins. Vin Chanmé is a surprisingly awesome wine. Dark, nearly purple in color, the juice is sumptuous with acai berry and black cherry but also complex with leather, slate and graphite minerality. Excellent at cellar temperature, I recommend serving this with just a light chill.
92 Vince Simmon Sep 10, 2024
White:
Beringer Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay "Private Reserve" 2022 ($50):  Beringer's Private Reserve is a very nice, but very big, Chardonnay with 15.1% alcohol, which I find is more enjoyable in mouth feel than it is troublesome. It shows lots of excellent apple fruit with a little green fruitiness, light tannins and a long finish. Even though the wine spent almost a year on partially new French oak, there is just a pleasant kiss of it – a peck on the cheek.
92 Roger Morris Sep 10, 2024
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New York:
Red:
Bully Hill Vineyards, New York (United States) Baco Noir NV ($10):  I love it when a good friend brings me an unusual bottle, and I love it even more when that bottle is worth writing about. Baco Noir is a cross of Folle Blanche, a vinifera variety, and an unknown riparia variety native American grape. Here it makes for a tasty dry red that is bold in flavors of black fruit and pepper, but not heavy in body. A simply prepared grilled top sirloin steak will make a great match.
90 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Sparkling:
Ravines Wine Cellars, Finger Lakes (New York) Sparkling Riesling Limestone Springs 2019 ($35):  Ravines is an artisanal winery focused on making dry wines from excellent quality grapes. Their Sparkling Riesling is bright with suggestions of honey, red apple, pear, white blossom, brioche, and honeyed beeswax. In addition to bringing an excellent depth of flavor and bright acidity, the Riesling’s light petroleum notes sneak into this sparkling wine’s flavor profile giving it an interesting twist of complexity.
91 Vince Simmon Sep 10, 2024
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Oregon:
Red:
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Dundee Hills (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Noir Nysa Vineyard 2022 ($95):  It is not surprising that Nicolas-Jay focuses on single vineyard bottlings, like this one from the acclaimed Nysa Vineyard, given the Burgundian perspective Jean-Nicolas Méo brings to the project. The iron-tinged 2022 Nysa leads with gorgeous aromatics of dark fruit and minerals. It is paradoxically dense and weighty without a trace of heaviness, achieving the all-too-elusive, “flavor without weight” attribute that makes Pinot Noir unique. Suave tannins are barely noticeable yet provide support. Brilliant acidity keeps it fresh and lively. Although delicious to drink now, its impeccable balance suggests it will evolve beautifully revealing even more savory elements.
94 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2024
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Own-Rooted” 2022 ($95):  The Own-Rooted bottling comprises grapes from sites in the Willamette, all of which contain vines more than 30 years old, including some grapes from their own Bishops Creek Vineyard. Grapes from Hyland Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA and from Nysa Vineyard in the Dundee Hills round out the blend. Conventional wisdom holds that old vines produce superior quality grapes, which may explain why this wine is so stunning. Although less weighty than their Nysa Vineyard bottling, it has a more commanding presence. Delicate and long, it is captivating with a mixture of red and black fruits intertwined with engaging earthy or savory elements. It dances on the palate and makes you wonder how so much flavor comes with so little weight. Great cranberry-like acidity in the finish amplifies its charms. Weighing in at a 13.5 percent stated alcohol, it’s a reminder that you don’t need super-ripe grapes to make great wine.
97 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2024
Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “L’Ensemble” 2022 ($75):  Nicolas-Jay, a collaboration between Jean-Nicolas Méo, who runs the celebrated Domaine Méo-Camuzet, one of Burgundy’s top producers, and Jay Boberg, a music industry giant, is just a decade old and is already one of Oregon’s leading producers. Only the second vintage vinified in their own winery, their 2022s all have a captivating purity and elegance. Take this one, L’Ensemble. As the name suggests, it’s a blend of vineyards from throughout the Willamette Valley and shows the graceful character of Pinot Noir coming from that valley. The lithe L’Ensemble displays bright red fruits, accented by subtle earthy savory nuances. Smooth tannins allow it to dance and caress the palate. It has the combination of delicacy and persistence that makes Willamette Valley Pinot Noir so engaging.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2024
White:
Archery Summit, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Gris “Vireton” 2023 ($24):  One of the pleasures of tasting lots of wine samples is that occasionally one you expect to be okay turns out to be really good – so enjoyable you keep saying to yourself, “This is really good.” This one is like that – well-rounded with lots of juicy pear, some grapefruit, and a hint of mint with lots of freshness and piquant acidity – a “buy a case of” wine.
93 Roger Morris Sep 10, 2024
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Washington:
Red:
Greenwing, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($30):  Wow. This has a billowing bouquet of blackberry cassis and spice that screams fine Cabernet. The palate follows through on that promise, adding on some Washington mineral notes. The finish adds some pepper and dried herbs. This is a solid value at this price – stock up! Contains 13% Malbec and 2% Syrah.
93 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Canvasback, Red Mountain (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($44):  This wine got the most votes from my tasting panel in a pretty nice set of Cabernet Sauvignons, and it has been a favorite of mine since its maiden vintage. I have probably written those same words for a few vintages in a row now. Balance, sense of place, reasonably priced – you can’t go wrong here. Contains 9% Merlot and 2% Malbec.
93 Rich Cook Sep 10, 2024
Red:
Smith Woodhouse, Vintage Port (Portugal) 2000 ($100, Premium Port Wines):  Christopher Smith, Lord mayor of London, established this Port house in 1784 in the Douro Valley of Portugal and began making the famous fortified wine called Port. Within a few years, the Woodhouse family was added to the ownership. Presently, the winery is owned by the Symington family, owners of many of the great Port houses. Port wines are typically made from 5 different grapes that are indigenous to Portugal, though many more are allowed for inclusion. After the crushed grapes and their juice are fermented for about 3 days, grape spirits are added to stop the fermentation, which results in a high octane (20% alcohol), somewhat sweet wine. The wine, meant to age in the bottle, is bottled within 3 years of harvest. The result is a robust, sweet wine that will continue to improve for as many as the next 50 to 80 years. At 24 years of age, this wine makes a delectable accompaniment to robust cheeses or decadent desserts. And yes, this 2000 vintage release is still available at the retail level.
96 Rebecca Murphy Sep 10, 2024
White:
William Fèvre, Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos (Burgundy, France) 2000 ($180, Vintus):  This 24-year-old Chablis is stunningly fresh and smooth with crisp lemon and green fruit flavors laced with dusty mineral notes. Domaine William Fèvre is the largest owner of Grand Cru vineyards in the Chablis region of Burgundy. William Fèvre's father planted vines in the Les Clos vineyard 1940s. William Fèvre declared his first vintage in 1959. Today, the winery is a forerunner in employing sustainable farming practices, having been organic since 2000 and biodynamic since 2010. All the Fèvre wines come from 125 acres of Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards.
96 Rebecca Murphy Sep 10, 2024
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