Surely you’ve seen wine competition medal stickers in ads or on labels or “hang tags” on bottles in retail stores, but there’s a strong chance that you’ve never reflected on what is required for a wine to earn one of the very top awards in a respected competition. A panel of three judges needs to agree that a wine they’ve tasting “blind” (knowing only the general category) is not merely deserving of a Silver or Gold medal that corresponds to high a point score, but a Platinum award. Doing that entails sending a bottle—one they haven’t yet seen—up for additional scrutiny by the Competition Director and the Chief Judge, who scrutinize the judging panel as well as the wine it deemed deserving of the highest award. Easier for the judges to just give the wine Gold, right? Yes, that’s exactly right—unless the wine proves so compelling to all three judges that they elect to stick their necks out to reach a consensus on its behalf.
Last weekend, a group of distinguished judges worked through a vast number of wines to see which entries merited the sticking out of their necks. What follows is a rundown of the Platinum Award winners, with reviews written either by Rich Cook (the Competition Director), or by me as Chief Wine Judge. We engaged in independent assessments of the wines that were put forward, so you’ll see a name indicating the author of the review, in keeping with Wine Review Online’s uniform practice of connecting both the verbiage and score for every wine to an individual rather than just the publication. The wines appear in alphabetical order, with suggested retail prices.
An important aside is that the full title of the competition is, “San Diego International Wine and Spirits Challenge,” and that spirits were also judged by a panel. You can find your way to the winning entries from Spirits Review Online. As for the wines, it will be worth your while to scan the entire list below to learn which ones managed to successfully run the gauntlet I’ve described above to earn Platinum Awards.
You’ll find the Platinum Award wines reviewed fully below, listed in alphabetical order within “type” categories (i.e., red, white, sparkling, rosé and dessert). The ordering is alphabetical rather than score-based for good reason: Competition results are at least as valuable for finding bargains as they are for finding wines that are simply superb in quality. Blind-tasting competitions take the biases of reputation and packaging out of play and concentrate solely on the merits of the juice. Not surprisingly, many $150 bottles rise to the top, but surprisingly and much more illuminating is the fact that some much less expensive wines get to show their strength in relation to their price and also in overall quality regardless of price. I prefer to list alphabetically so that you’ll see the overachievers interspersed with the...well...achievers:
Red Wines:
Alamos (Medoza, Argentina) Malbec 2022 ($13): It’s always good when what’s probably the most widely available wine of a particular type and region is also a fine example of such. This wallet friendly offering is always worth a pickup – bright fruit, savory spice and soft pepper define the aroma and flavor profiles, and the structure is firm but approachable. Translation: serve with ribeye steak, and get a better cut with what you saved on the wine. 92 Rich Cook
Alamos (Medoza, Argentina) Malbec “Selección” 2021 ($20): For a few dollars more than the “regular” Malbec under this label, you’ll get a definite bump in quality, with a little more depth and wood influence to the bright fruit, savory spice and soft pepper character that makes both offerings so attractive. The wood really deepens things here, giving this a very attractive, mellow vibe to the finish that will keep you coming back. Well done! 93 Rich Cook
Aquinas (North Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($18): 2021, as you may have heard, is a California vintage to be on the lookout for – especially since great vintages tend to mean some of the good fruit trickles into budget friendly offerings. This North Coast-designated offering delivers more like a sub-AVA labeled vineyard designate, with rich oak spice countering tart red and black fruit over a bed of acidity that knits everything together. It’s ready to go, but you could age it a while as well. 92 Rich Cook
Argonne Cellars (Red Mountain, Washington) Syrah 2020 ($39): The beauty of Syrah is that so many expressions can be found in so many different places in the world. Red Mountain is one of the top players thanks to the mineral profile it adds, and in the case of this wine, it plays well off supper ripe berry fruit and smoky oak tones, finishing long and fully integrated. Drink now with something big – wild boar, if you have access, would be perfect. 94 Rich Cook
Brick Barn (Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County, California) Grenache 2021 ($60): Another hit from the Central Coast’s stellar 2021 vintage. This wine shows a rich ripe strawberry aromatic top note, with notes of white pepper and wildflowers accenting. The palate shows silky texture through the midpalate, delivering the flavors promised by the nose beautifully. In the finish things really take off, with the pepper leaning forward into the fruit and offering a bold, integrated burst of flavor. Delicious now and over the next five years. 95 Rich Cook
Concannon (Livermore Valley, California) Petite Sirah “Reserve Nina’s Cuvée” 2021 ($40): Concannon is a true California heritage label, and Petite Sirah has always been its main calling card. I’ve tasted 30-year-old versions that are still firing on all cylinders, and this current special cuvée is a likely standout in the storied history. Over the years they’ve become more approachable in their youth, as this one is, but they haven’t sacrifice structure or longevity in the process. Don’t miss this! 94 Rich Cook
Concannon Vineyard (Livermore Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($42): This is both complex and polished, which are two strengths that don’t often reside together in California Cabernet. The polish is no doubt the result of fine fruit growing and skillful work in the cellar, but rather than seeming too “domesticated,” is also offers interesting complexities. These may stem from the addition of 5% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot to the base of Cabernet Sauvignon. The finished product strikes a fine balance of punchy flavors and suave texture. 91 Michael Franz
Eberle (Paso Robles, Central Coast, California) Steinbeck Vineyard Syrah 2021 ($38): Eberle wines are almost always as much about finesse as power, but this Syrah shows so much intensity and density that the wild boar emblem on the label seems a bit more fitting than usual. Very dark and deeply pigmented, it packs quite a punch of black and red berries, and though it is certainly nicely ripened, there’s no hint of over-ripeness. Indeed, the wine is energized and freshened by a clear beam of acidity and prevents it from ever seeming soupy or plodding. This really bears a resemblance to Syrah-based wines from the Northern Rhône in this respect — lots of intensity but still terrific purity and freshness. 94 Michael Franz
Eberle (Paso Robles, Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Eberle Estate Vineyard 2020 ($52): From the house of the guy who put this region on the world wine map comes this complex Cabernet – one that embraces the long-held house rule of letting the wine be what the vintage dictates while still managing to achieve a house style at the same time. It's got great midpalate texture, and it finishes long and elegant. I can’t say enough about what winemaker Chris Eberle is doing here. 94 Rich Cook
Eberle (Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, California) Barbera 2021 ($40): Long committed to this variety and what it can do in Paso Robles, this bottling from an exceptional vintage shows exactly why Eberle sticks to its guns. This has all the charm of a Piedmont example, but with significantly more weight, texture, and power. Black cherry fruit, oak spice and an earthy component play well together and finish long and well-integrated already – I’ve had these bottlings at up to ten years of age, and they never disappoint. 94 Rich Cook
Eberle (Paso Robles, Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard Selection 2021 ($28): The “entry level” Cabernet at Eberle – for lack of a better term – is the sort of entry that can convert anyone to Paso Cab. It’s fresh and bright, with a supple midpalate texture, bright acidity and a tasty pepper note that stand out in the finish. Give this a little time for the pepper to fold all the way into the fruit – a couple of years should do the trick. That said, if you love pepper like I do, there’s no need to wait. 93 Rich Cook
2156 Estate Vineyard (South Coast, California) Petite Sirah “Estate” 2020 ($46): This is a great story to tell – I’ve directed the hobbyist wine competition at the local fair for many years, and I’ve seen many a winemaker “come over to the dark side” and go commercial. This label is the latest to join the fray, and this may be their first big award. It’s a big ripe Petite with everything in its place, plushly peppery and persistent. It’s set up to go long, and I’d age it a few years before going in. 93 Rich Cook
Four Sisters Ranch (Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, California) Red Wine “Opalessence” 2019 ($38): This wine hits the mark for a Cali Franco offering just on the bold side of center thanks to the presence of Malbec and Petit Verdot in a fairly large amount. They offset the Cabernet’s backbone by adding some plushness without compromising the structure. A later release benefits, as this is just beginning to really shine. Drink now or hold up to ten years. Contains 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot. 94 Rich Cook
Franciscan (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($16): This wine will work beautifully for fans of lots of oak spice, and for the price I’m sure it’ll find an even wider audience. It’s carrying the vintage’s racy acid profile, and it really makes the spice pop at present. I don’t usually recommend aging wines at this price point, but you can do so with confidence here – up to five years. 91 Rich Cook
Hampton Family Wines (Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Erica’s Vineyard 2021 ($30): Here’s a fine bargain in Sonoma Valley Cabernet – the front label says, “No Spray Vineyard, No Sulfites, Vegan” across the bottom, so I’ll be expecting it to pop up in markets that cater to the clean eating crowd. Call it an excuse to visit such an establishment if you aren’t already a patron – who knows what else you might find? It’s a fine west of the Mayacamas expression at a great price. Happy hunting! 93 Rich Cook
Hampton Family Wines (Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County, California) Erica’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($32): This wine shows great promise at its young age, displaying very dark color and excellent concentration of pigments. It still seems a bit raw at this stage, finishing with a blunt effect as the tannins kick in, yet the core of midpalate fruit (think blackberries above all) is deeply delicious. The old saying that “time heals all wounds” is manifestly untrue, but time will nevertheless heal this wine’s sole shortcoming, and when it does, this will be worth twice its asking price of $32. If you are lucky enough to own a cellar, take note. 91 Michael Franz
Hoffmann Vineyards (Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec “Reserve Especial” 2020 ($32): This is a label to watch, as this flagship bottling attests. It’s a right-down-the-middle example of Mendoza style, with berry fruit, moderate oak influence, easy spice and pepper notes that play together perfectly and linger long. It’s the sort of bottle that will please both the crowd and the cognoscenti, especially when served alongside grilled meats – you could go just about any color with the meat: beef, chicken, fish – all could work. Or just enjoy on its own. Nice! 94 Rich Cook
Imagery Estate Winery (Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California) “Noir Nouveau” 2022 ($49): This is “nouveau” much more in the sense of being innovative than just “young” in the sense of Beaujolais Nouveau. The blend is 87% Pinot Noir, 8% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre, and though most tasters would likely identify it as Pinot if tasting it blind, many would also guess there’s some surreptitious muscle lurking beneath the surface — rather like Clark Kent in a business suit. Straddling the line between light- and medium-bodied, is shows savory notes in addition to the more standard red cherry Pinot fruit scents and flavors. Any sacrifice of Pinot-like purity and restraint is made up for by the depth of flavor and enhanced complexity provided by the Syrah and Mourvedre components. This seems thoughtfully constructed rather than just juked up. 93 Michael Franz
Jacob’s Creek (Australia) Merlot “Classic” 2023 ($12, Pernod Ricard USA): As you can tell by the vintage date, the fruit behind this wine was still on the vine not long ago, yet this excellent bargain shows nothing “grapey” or raw that would give away its age aside from the label. Deep color indicates good concentration, which does indeed come through on the palate after fresh scents of dark berries and black plums get this off to an appealing start. The flavors cohere with the aromas and also ring true to the Merlot variety, which has long been relatively rare in Australia. A wine like this makes one wonder why that has been the case, as this is convincing and delicious by any standard—and at a remarkably appealing price. 93 Michael Franz
Ledson (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard Reserve 2019 ($150): Ledson made terrific 2019 Reserve Cabernets from their Estate vineyard in Alexander Valley as well as this one from Napa’s Stagecoach Vineyard, and to my taste, this is slightly the better of the two. This provides marvelous savory notes in both the aromas and flavors that make for superb complexity, and though the Alexander Valley Reserve is the more energetic wine, this offers more detail while remaining very impressively symmetrical in all of its sensory attributes. Undeniably fabulous now, it will likely get even better over the next five years. 96 Michael Franz
Ledson (Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, Cabernet Sauvignon) Estate Vineyard Reserve 2019 ($150): This big bottle bears a big price tag too, but the content should mollify all who give it a try. It is quite rich and deeply flavored, as one would expect on this price tier, and there’s plenty of fancy oak that’s well integrated, which is also to be expected. What’s surprising and impressive about this bottling is its freshness, as a bright beam of acidity runs through the dark berry fruit lending energy to the wine and easily counterbalancing the cocoa powder undertones to keep this seeming classy rather than ponderous through the finish. The packaging is obviously designed to impress, but the juice is more impressive still. 95 Michael Franz
Ledson (Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel “Reserve, Estate Old Vine” 2019 ($64): Saying that this wine shows the civilized side of Zinfandel may put off some fans of the variety, but they’d be missing out on one of the great expressions of the variety. Zin is a shape shifter that can perform well across a wide stylistic range, and there’s beauty to be found all across the continuum. This carries deep ripe berry aromas and flavors, subtle pepper and fall spice on a plush texture that will lend itself well to medium to strong cheeses. Delicious! 94 Rich Cook
J. Lohr (Paso Robles, Central Coast, California) Red Blend “Cuvée St. E” 2021 ($50): This special bottling from J. Lohr is an homage to Bordeaux’s St.-Émilion appellation, utilizing the same lead grape varieties in a ratio of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot. Though still a young wine with a solid decade of positive development ahead of it, its fruit is so pure and rich that it is already invitingly soft despite its sheer palate weight, and likewise it handles its oak with ease. Wines of this caliber from California routinely ring up with three-digit prices these days, so to see a wine of such prodigious quality offered for $50 is a pleasant surprise. It could serve as the centerpiece for any special occasion from now until the mid-2030s. 97 Michael Franz
J. Lohr (Paso Robles, Central Coast, California) Red Wine “Cuvée PAU” 2021 ($50): The J. Lohr Cuvêe series wines always represent serious value for your dollar, and this vintage continues a couple of strings with this gorgeous Left Bank tribute. String one is already alluded to above, and string two is the continuation of the parade of 2021 wines from the Central Coast. If you’ve been experiencing this with earlier release 2021’s keep some dollars in your wallet for these later releases. This is pure, layered, long and age-worthy – I recently opened some more than ten-year-old bottles from this line, and they never disappoint. Well done yet again. Contains 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot. 95 Rich Cook
J. Lohr (Paso Robles, Central Coast, California Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($17): I’ve tasted many vintages of this wine, but can’t remember one that measured up to this 2021—a terrific vintage in California’s Central Coast. It shows more impressive depth of flavor than past renditions, but this virtue wasn’t purchased at the price of any harshness due to over-extraction or over-ripeness. Given that J. Lohr makes several wines above this level incorporating Cabernet, one could get the idea that this bottling is an assemblage of table scraps—but the 2021 vintage would belie any such characterization. A best-ever rendition. 91 Michael Franz
J. Lohr (Paso Robles, Central Coast, California) "Pure Paso" Proprietary Red Wine 2021 ($27): This wine has established a successful style, and it is also a delightful style – and as you probably know, the two don’t necessarily go hand in hand. The Petite Sirah really boosts the structure here while also adding blue elements to the Cabernet-driven profile. It’s made in a bold yet ready to drink style. Accents from a little Hungarian oak and the little-known Saint Macaire grape add pizzazz to the package. If you like ‘em big, this is a winner. Contains 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petite Sirah and 2% Saint Macaire. 92 Rich Cook
McIlroy Cellars (Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California) Vines & Roses Vineyard Pinot Noir Reserve 2021 ($65): This highly admirable Pinot is light and fresh—almost ethereal—and yet it offers very expressive aromas and flavors despite its light body and very delicate structure. Everybody knows lemon chiffon—think red cherry Pinot chiffon in this case, or just this of this as the exact opposite of the chunky “Pinot Syrah” type of wine that has had its day in supermarkets during recent years. Lovely aromas of fresh red cherries with a light edge of spice get this off to a great start, and the flavors are likewise restrained but enticing at once. Both the tannins and wood are so well integrated as to be nearly indetectable, though they do support the wine in very subtle ways. This is among the most stylish Pinots I’ve tasted in recent years. 96 Michael Franz
McIlroy Cellars (Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California) “Three Vineyard Blend” Pinot Noir 2022 ($40): This lovely wine is nearly as fine as its more expensive stablemate “Reserve” from the 2021 vintage, and the more approachable price makes this one to watch for. It is stylistically akin to the 2021 Reserve by comparison to the general run of California Pinots, meaning that it is lighter in body and more delicate in texture but still notably generous in aroma and flavor. It is a bit richer and more overt, but those attributes will make it even more appealing to many who taste both wines, if not quite as remarkable by dint of restraint. Both are—literally—delicacies. 93 Michael Franz
Ménage à Trois (California) Pinot Noir 2022 ($14): This may not quite measure up to the ever-more-common $50 Pinots from California in terms of intricacy, but it shows clear varietal character and offers very generous aromas and flavors in relation to its modest asking price. Notably, it achieves this without seeming overly sweet or chunky, which is to say that it remains authentically Pinot-like rather than a Pinot-based concoction. Quite impressive in relation to its price. 91 Michael Franz
Miramonte (California) Red Wine “Opulente” 2019 ($46): A recent trip to Portugal is brought to mind when tasting this traditional western Iberian blend. A little bottle age has this firing on all cylinders with juicy black, red and blue fruit, easy oak spice, supple structure and a fully integrated finish that lingers and begs another sip. If you have the ability to put a pig on a rotisserie for pairing purposes, you’ll be transported. Contains 52% Alicante Bouschet, 31% Tempranillo and 17% Touriga Nacional. 93 Rich Cook
Miramonte (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($44): Here’s a wine with generically listed sourcing offered by a winery two states and a thousand miles away that bats well above most macro-appellation wines. It’s showing Columbia Valley minerality, and leads me to think that there might be a fair amount of Red Mountain fruit in the mix. If that’s the sort of things that gets your attention, as it has mine, dive in without hesitation. 93 Rich Cook
Nello Olivo (El Dorado, California) Malbec 2020 ($32): Nello Olivo is more than a label – he’s an actual person, and while his focus at the winery leans Italian in style, he makes other beautiful things as well. This Malbec is on the bold ripe side of the spectrum with juicy berry fruit and a little raisin-y edge on entry. Things turn bright and peppery midpalate, with a real burst of pepper forward in the finish. Steak for this, on the rare side of medium rare, please! 94 Rich Cook
Nunum (Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec “Fenix”2021 ($65): A standout Malbec from what’s become the world’s favorite place for the variety. This bottle carries the evidence well, showing lively brambly fruit, pepper and savory notes that are layered in structured fine-grained tannins that make all the flavor elements stick together from start to finish. It’s delicious now, and it has a long life ahead. Tasting it transports me to a little Mendoza restaurant in my mind, where a sizzling parilla platter – jugoso of course – is elevated with a glass of this alongside. 95 Rich Cook
Rodney Strong (Sonoma County, California) Red Blend “Symmetry” 2018 ($70): Seeing a high-end wine such as this offered with five years of age on it is a very pleasant surprise, and the pleasure is only enhanced by pulling the cork and getting it into a glass. The blend is 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 6% Malbec, 4% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, and “bit players” in the blend are not merely that—they really do make this seem significantly more intricate than a straightforward Cabernet Sauvignon. The core of dark berry fruit is enhanced by accents of lightly spicy oak, ripe plums, and just a whiff of autumn leaves and dried herbs. Superb wine that is approaching its apogee, but shows no risk of decline for at least five years. 95 Michael Franz
San Simeon (Paso Robles Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($30): I’ve already tasted this wine during 2024 in the course of a restaurant consulting project, and when encountering it for the second time, I’m yet again impressed with its balance between impactful flavors and stylish structure. The bottle is heavy but the wine isn’t, as the ripeness is moderate and the tannins are fine-grained and unobtrusive (as is the oak). The end result is a rare Cab that could be enjoyed at the bar in a restaurant but prove equally satisfying with serious dishes like grilled steak at the table. 92 Michael Franz
Stoney Mesa, (Grand Valley, Colorado) Malbec 2018 ($27): As you might imagine, I don’t get a lot of Colorado wine crossing my desk in San Diego, and this wine seems to tell me that I’m missing something. It’s spot on Malbec, with primary blackberry fruit and unique earth tones well folded together. It’s got some bottle age on it, and that’s clearly a benefit – things are rich, round and ready to go. Sounds like it’s time for a field trip. 92 Rich Cook
Wakefield (Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “St. Andrews” 2020 ($80): Generations of consumers have been baffled by the Clare Valley’s ability to produce some of the world’s best dry Rieslings while also serving as the source for big, powerful bottlings of Shiraz such as this. The question can’t be answered in a brief review, but this wine serves the purpose of setting the issue clearly, as this packs terrific palate intensity with fruit notes recalling blackberries and black raspberries that are remarkably persistent through the finish. Still somehow fresh despite its power, this is an object lesson in the Clare’s capacity to produce beauty in balance. 95 Michael Franz
Wakefield (Clare Valley & McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia) Shiraz “Jaraman” 2022 ($32): Combining fruit from different regions would be horrifying to most French winemakers, but the Aussies have never had a hang-up over this, and bottlings such as this one show how excellent the results can be. One senses that the brighter notes here hail from the Clare, whereas the weight and power stem mostly from the McLaren Vale component, with the latter contribution making possible a Shiraz with the depth of flavor and physical weight of a wine one would expect to see for more than $50. Terrific bargain for a high-end wine. 94 Michael Franz
White Wines:
Barboursville Vineyards (Virginia) Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2021 ($25): Barboursville Vineyards is an industry leader in Virginia viticulture, crafting well-known international varieties while also breaking new ground with Italian cultivars. This is a convincing rendition of Sauvignon Blanc, one that leads with pleasant aromas recalling cut grass and dried herbs and follows them up with lemon-lime fruit flavors that are true to the variety’s classic character. Expressive without seeming pungent, and refreshingly tart without ever turning sour, this is very well done. 92 Michael Franz
Brancott Estate (East Coast, New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2023 ($12): I’d imagine that the success of Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand has locals occasionally pining for something else to satisfy their cravings for an alternative white. Enter this delicious Pinot Gris – a wholly other and wholly worthy option to go to when something full of flavor but a less citric than its famed white. Bright and viscous all at once, with a touch of signature wooly character and a long stonefruit finish, I feel confident in saying that you’ll love it. 94 Rich Cook
Brick Bark (Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County) Grenache Blanc Estate Grown 2022 ($40): This is a delicious and very convincing rendition of Grenache Blanc, one that shows both body and a flavor profile quite close to its cousins from the Mediterranean coasts of southern France and Catalonian coasts. Very faint floral aromas recall honeysuckle blossoms, but this isn’t as perfumed as, say, Viognier. Medium-bodied, with moderate but entirely adequate acidity, it features flavors recalling ripe pears and Honeydew melons, with just enough acidity to provide lift in the finish. A bit pricey, but excellent. 93 Michael Franz
Brick Barn (Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County, California) Albariño 2021 ($42): I can’t say that I’ve ever had an Albariño cross my desk at 15.6% alcohol until this bottle, and it shows that “it’s just a number” – which is to say that you should always taste first and ask questions later. While this does show a warm climate expression, it’s got plenty of acidity to make everything work. If I had to guess, I’d say there might be a bit of Viognier in the mix, but again, taste first, ask questions later. Delicious! 93 Rich Cook
Duck Hunter (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($20): This is an agreeably muted example of Marlbrough Sauvignon that still rings true to both the grape variety and the place of origin. It may have settled a bit since the time when it first arrived in the USA market, which is probably close to a full year ago, but it has settled into a very nice style. Citrus and melon flavors are nicely interwoven, with nice herbal aromatic topnotes and zingy, lemon-like acidity providing energy in the finish. 91 Michael Franz
Eberle (Paso Robles, Central Coast, California) White Blend “Côtes-du-Rôbles” 2022 ($30): A blend of 55% Viognier, 31% Grenache Blanc and 14% Roussanne, this is appealingly reminiscent of a well-executed blend from France’s southern Rhône Valley. The fruit is even more flavorful and rich than what one would find in most of its French counterparts, but a nice touch of oak spice provides an edge that offsets the wine’s richness very effectively. This would be a very promising partner for a roasted chicken or light meats like pork tenderloin, but also fun to sip on its own. 93 Michael Franz
J. Lohr (Arroyo Seco, Monterey County, California) Chardonnay “Arroyo Vista” 2022 ($25): Often my favorite of the J. Lohr Chardonnay releases, this vintage hits the mark again with focused acidity, an easy hand with oak, a plush midpalate and a bright, lip-smacking finish that combined give make it a great multi-purpose white wine. Try it with a creamy fish dish or herb roasted chicken, or go solo if the mood strikes you. 94 Rich Cook
King Estate (Willamette Valley, Oregon) Pinot Gris “Domaine” 2022 ($29):
This winery built its reputation on this variety, and this estate-grown offering shows the serious side of what the grape can do in Oregon. It leans austere in character compared to the “regular” bottling, making it a better pairing for more serious fare. Round and rich, it features citrus and stonefruit in a dry style, with bright zesty finishing notes that will keep you coming back for more. Great stuff! 94 Rich Cook
Navarro Vineyards (Anderson Valley, California) Pinot Gris 2022: I wrote this on a September 2023 encounter with this wine: “Wow! This is always a great bottle, but this might be one of the best ever when it comes to Pinot Gris from Navarro. Just a faint hint of residual sugar serves to brighten everything in a way that amplifies. This is like drinking a beautiful flower arrangement with some stone fruit, apple and citrus mixed in – if you open one in a group of four people I would estimate it will be empty in about three minutes. Just another boffo wine from Navarro.” Here, a few months down the road, there’s nothing in the glass that changes my mind one bit. Great stuff from Jim Klein and his team! 96 Rich Cook
Nobilo (Marlborough) New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($13): Although most bottles of Marlborough Sauvignon now being sold in the USA are from the 2023 vintage, many Kiwi winemakers believe the wines are better after they’ve had some time to settle, and this bottle supports that view. Still undeniably fresh, it features citrus topnotes as well as slightly more melon-y flavors on the palate, with zesty acidity enlivening the finish. At an asking price of $13, this is quite a deal. 91 Michael Franz
Pomelo Wine Co. (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($12): Seeing the vintage date of 2021 on the label and learning the price of this is $12, I was wondering why this was deemed a Platinum Award winner by the panel that judged it blind—until I tasted it myself. True, it doesn’t have the sharp edge shown by most Sauvignons, and whatever edge it may have shown a year ago has surely dulled since then, but as it stands, it remains delicious. The fruit shows citrus notes as well as ones more reminiscent of white melons, with enough acidity counterbalance the light sweetness of the fruit notes. Nicely done. 90 Michael Franz
Rodney Strong (Chalk Hill, Sonoma County) Chardonnay 2021 ($30): Here’s a Chardonnay that uses oak to full advantage, deepening the Chalk Hill fruit without overwhelming things in any way. It adds nots of toast and spice and a little structural grip, and the lively ripe apple and citrus fruit shines through. It’s a great sipper of seafood pairing, and it’s priced right for the quality level – another ’21 with flash and substance. 93 Rich Cook
Yealands (Marlborough, New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($18): This is a very nicely balanced Marlborough Sauvignon that offers a lot of flash and fun but never tips over the line into being too pungent aromatically or too tart in the finish. It is possible that a bit of residual sugar helps the wine achieve this bright-but-buffered result, but if that’s the case, the winemaking team got the RS exactly right. Very well made and very cleverly crafted—which is not quite saying the same thing twice. 92 Michael Franz
Sparkling Wines:
Barefoot Bubbly (California) Brut Cuvée NV ($10): It’s said that blind tasting doesn’t lie, and I wholeheartedly agree with that statement. When a group of skilledtasters arrives by consensus at a top award without know anything other than a general categorization, that wine is always worth taking a look at. While non-vintage wines can vary lot to lot, producers are always looking to find consistency for their customer base. This wine accomplishes the mission at a price that everyone can get behind, and at a production/distribution level that allows literally everyone to get a shot at it. If a store sells wine, they likely sell this, and you should do yourself a favor and pick some up, put it in a blind tasting with other Brut’s that you like, and see what happens. Your wallet will thank you. 91 Rich Cook
Caposaldo ( Prosecco DOC, Veneto, Italy) Brut NV ($16): In the already vast and ever-growing world of DOC Prosecco, this is a standout. Nearly water-white in appearance, it offers floral aromatic topnotes that seem fresh rather than funereal, and these appealing notes recalling white blossoms lend expressiveness that is often found only in Extra Dry rather than Brut Prosecco. Finishing clean but not austere, this will wear well over an evening—or an afternoon by the pool. 92 Michael Franz
Francis Coppola (Prosecco DOC, Veneto, Italy) “Diamond Collection” Extra Dry NV ($16): Widely available but not to be diminished on that ground, this is an undeniably pleasant drink, with appealing floral aromatics and a lightly sweet palate impression that seems to follow naturally from the flowery bouquet. Candidly, this is basically a two-note wine, but the two notes are nice ones, and they work together well. 90 Michael Franz
Kim Crawford (Prosecco DOC, Veneto, Italy) Extra Dry NV ($15): This is an undeniably pleasant drink, which is of course why the category of DOC Prosecco is so successful, and this rendition is above the average within the category. The floral aromas work nicely with the sweet mid-palate and finish, and though the bubbles are not as small nor the effervescence as delicate as the very best of the breed, I doubt that a single consumer will downgrade the wine for those reasons. 89 Michael Franz
Rosé Wine:
Miramonte (Temecula Valley, Riverside County, California) Rosé 2021 ($27): Quite interesting as Rosés go, this wine has a pleasantly weedy character that offsets the cherry and strawberry fruit nicely, and taut acidity keeps the fruit and veggies together through a finish that has soild push. It’s built for fresh green salads and warm weather. Contains 40% Grenache, 28% Cinsault, 17% Tempranillo, 12% Syrah and 3% Mourvedre. 90 Rich Cook
Dessert Wines:
Barboursville Vineyards (Virginia) Dessert Wine “Paxxito” 2019 ($40): This wine was once a legend in Virginia, winning a place among the top 12 wines nearly every year in the “Governor’s Cup” judging, which is the commonwealth’s premier wine competition. Today, it is a legend nationwide, as it continues to earn top honors as it is entered in many more competition, where its excellence is recognized immediately regardless of location or judging panel. Air-dried grapes lose H2O content and leave marvelously aromatic and flavorful nectar behind, and balancing acidity in the finish keeps this from seeming cloying despite extremely high natural sugar content. Made from equal parts Moscato Ottonel and Vidal Blanc, it could partner well with many desserts—or serve nicely as dessert all on its own. Sold in a 375ml bottle. 95 Michael Franz
Ménage à Trois (California) Moscato “Sweet Collection” NV ($14): The craze for Moscato may be waning, but that just means that there will be more available for fans, at least for a little while longer. This is one of the more complex examples, showing layered sweet stonefruit, spice and lemon zest in a pleasant frizzante style, and though the branding emphasizes sweet, its acidic balance keeps it from seeming cloying or overtly sugar driven. It’s a fine glass of liquid light dessert. 90 Rich Cook
