Japan may not be the first country that comes to mind when thinking of wine, but wine has been made (albeit in small quantities) in Japan for over 1,000 years.  The consumption of wine was first observed by Japanese residents when Jesuit priests from Portugal resided in Nagasaki in the 16th century.  However, it wasn't until the late 19th century that the industry began to take shape.  Since then, Japanese winemaking has evolved, with a notable surge in domestic wineries over the last few decades—a trend that stands out given the country's status as the world's fifth-largest importer of wine.  Despite the strong presence of imported wines, the Japanese wine industry is thriving, blending traditional practices with modern techniques to produce unique, high-quality wines.

Today, most wine production in Japan is controlled by a few large companies, notably the multinational liquor brand Suntory.  However, a select group of small wineries is advocating for local grape varieties and promoting the unique qualities of Japanese terroir.  These efforts are gradually gaining recognition in the international wine media and by consumers.

What Grape Varieties Do They Produce?

Finding grape varieties that can thrive in Japan’s bitterly cold winters is an ongoing effort.  Two native varieties, Koshu and Muscat Bailey A, comprise almost a third of Japan’s wine production.  Koshu is believed to have grown naturally in Japan for over 1000 years.  It is a delicate, pink-skinned variety that is now the country’s flagship grape.  Koshu typically exhibits a soft, floral character, and while it was once predominantly sweet, more producers today are exploring its potential as a dry wine reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc.

Muscat Bailey A is a crossing of multiple grapes developed in 1927 by grape breeder Kawakami Zenbei.  It is bred to resist cold winters and is known for its intense aromas, fruitiness, low levels of tannin, and acidity.  Japanese winegrowers are also experimenting with non-vinifera varieties.  While Niagara and Concord are more heavily planted, the hybrid variety Delaware has proven successful in central Japan, producing a range of styles.

Apart from these grapes, growers produce small amounts of Cabernet, Pinot Noir, and Merlot.  White wines are generally more reliable than reds, which sometimes struggle to ripen.  Notably, Albariño (native to the northwest corner of Spain and northern Portugal) has shown promise in Japan’s growing conditions.  In Hokkaido, Pinot Gris and several other varieties often associated with Alsace produce some of Japan’s most remarkable wines in small quantities.

What are the Major Wine-Growing Regions?

Japan has five officially recognized Geographical Indications (GIs): Yamanashi, Nagano, Hokkaido, Yamagata, and Osaka.  The bulk of the nation’s wine vineyards lie on the island of Honshu.   The Yamanashi prefecture, the first Japanese GI for wine, is just an hour from Tokyo.   Yamanashi and its neighboring prefecture, Nagano, have the highest concentration of vineyards.  Yamanashi is also home to 90% of the country’s Koshu vineyards.

Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, is the third-most planted prefecture and has become a hot spot for winemaking.  Many successful winemakers are in the region.  Hokkaido’s cold and snowy climate meant that the first vineyards mostly grew cold-hardy grape hybrids.  But for better or worse, climate change has warmed the region in the intervening decades, and nowadays, varieties of vinifera are also cultivated in Hokkaido.

Yamagata is the fourth largest producing region.  Yamagata is located in the northern part of Honshu.  It has favorable climatic conditions as it faces the Sea of Japan on the west and is surrounded on three sides by the mountains.  Although Yamagata has such ideal conditions for producing high-quality grapes, almost one-third of their grapes are transferred to wineries located outside the prefecture for vinification in other areas.   This ratio of vinification outside the prefecture is much higher than that of Yamanashi, Nagano, or Hokkaido.  This is one of the reasons why Yamagata wanted a GI status.  By getting a GI, Yamagata intends to raise the percentage of vinification within the prefecture.

Finally, Osaka has a long history of producing table grapes because it has a large population and other mass consumption areas nearby, such as Kyoto and Kobe.  Osaka wines are made mainly from the aforementioned Delaware grape variety, which is easy to cultivate and pairs very well with Japanese cuisine.

How Can You Experience Japanese Wine?

Unfortunately, few Japanese wines are exported, so if you find yourself in Japan, the best way to sample and enjoy them is at a local wine bar.  These establishments are scattered throughout major cities, with Tokyo boasting some of the best and highest-rated options in the country.  If your travels permit, Yamanashi wine country is easily accessible by rail and is less than two hours from Tokyo.  One of the liveliest times to visit is on the first Saturday of October during the Katsunuma Wine Festival, when all the wineries roll out the barrels and offer tastings to showcase the wines produced in the region.

Additionally, major companies such as Sapporo, Suntory, Asahi, and Kirin actively promote Japanese wine domestically, creating opportunities for import and export.  Japanese wines are also beginning to appear on restaurant menus in cities like London and New York.

If you get the chance, you must try Japanese wine!