Sommeliers are truly out on the front in the wine world at that spot where product meets consumer. Whether it’s as a restaurant wine specialist responsible for developing a list that pairs with a food menu, or as a taster for a distributor, or an educator bringing unique things to their students, they tend to have their fingers on the pulse of what’s happening internationally in the marketplace. Significantly practiced in the tasting of wines from everywhere, their knowledge is expansive, and the seriousness with which they approach blind tasting is hard to match. This year’s Sommelier Challenge panel brings a range of experience to the table, and the wines that they selected as the cream of the crop from this year’s competition certainly show that their years of study have borne significant fruit. They are tough customers, but their noses and palates are trustworthy and true.
The notes below are my personal impressions of their selections, with my own scores attached, which may be slightly different than the scores that they assigned to the wines. I tasted the wines blind initially, and I have added some context after tasting to help you better understand what a particular wine is all about.
You’ll find the reviews organized by macro-category and then alphabetically by producer. Let’s take a look:
RED:
Anachronism, Rutherford (Napa Valley, California) Zinfandel 2020 ($47): Here’s a deeply extracted, sassy style of Zin that’s nicely reined in by careful barrel selection. The oak load is well matched to the ripeness level, adding a little spice and a little toast without interfering with the brambly black fruit character. There’s some heat to be sure, but that will just endear it to the true Zin believers. Nicely realized wine. 94
Black Stallion, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Limited Release 2021 ($65): Solid Cabernet can always find a place to shine, especially one that’s build like this. It is classic California in style, with blackberry, cassis, fall spice, soft oak toast, and faint dried herbs well folded into both the aroma and flavor profiles. Always good to have a tool like this in your bag. 94
Chapillon, Calatayud DO (Spain) Red Wine “Siendra” 2020 ($20): This is a gorgeous Garnacha-forward blend, with sensual wood spice tones playing against the red fruit character with supple style. Moderate grip keeps the mix of cherry, powder, and mixed brown spice pulsing through the long finish, inviting you back for more with each sip. Delicious on its own, it’ll pair perfectly with a pork tenderloin roast. 94
Chateau Elan (American) Teroldego “The Roldec” 2020 ($55): Teroldego is making a genuine play for market share in the domestic red wine world thanks to iterations like this one. Give this some airtime to tamp down a reductive note, and then enjoy the reveal of deep berry fruit and a bright fall spice top note. The palate is structured in a way that you can go serious or simple when pairing – it’ll adapt to whatever you’d like to serve on the red meat side. Nice, and from a very unexpected source – who knew? 94
Eberle, Paso Robles (San Luis Obispo County, California) Zinfandel 2022 ($38): No doubt you’ve heard the rumors that this variety is not a favorite of writers or somms. I happen to love great Zins, and there’s certainly a group in the Sommelier community that appreciate them as well. This iteration is on the lighter, more pepper-driven side of the style spectrum, and it succeeds with lively acidity, supple tannins, bright brambly fruit and a long, zesty finish. It’ll work where you might use a Pinot Noir but want a little more zippiness. 95
JOLO Vineyards (North Carolina) Red Wine “JOLOTAGE” 2023 ($42): When two wines made from Bordeaux varieties in North Carolina make their way to my table as Platinum Award winners in a blind tasting, it’s certainly something to take notice of. This offering is long on bright fruit, with the oak toast level perfectly dialed in to give that fruit lift and push. This is a true delight now and will age gracefully over the next 5-10 years. Well done! Contains 40% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Cabernet Franc. 95
King Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2022 ($29): I always love a Pinot Noir that I can use as a magnifying glass – this is crystal clear and bright, leading to a nose and palate that echoes those qualities. Racy acidity carries the cherry and strawberry fruit that’s accented by oak toast and some dry field character that gift the fruit lift and push. When pairing, lean to the fish and fowl side of the menu. 95
Mano Mona (Spain) Monastrell “Proyecto No. 04” 2022 ($19): It’s great fun to taste varieties that are most often used for blending as stand-alone wines as they are often chosen as such because of a standout characteristic that the maker decides is deserving of its own showcase. Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvèdre) is usually deployed because of the depth it can add to a blend, and a little can go a long way with its tarry character. Here, black and blue fruit sing on the nose and ride alongside the tar notes on the palate, finishing long and nicely integrated. Bravo! 94
Miguel Caratachea, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bracero” 2020 ($100): The full throttle style that came to the forefront in Napa Valley in the late 1980’s/early 1990’s is on display here, and that said, it’s a wine that rides right up to the line and holds there, not showing any signs of overripe fruit or overt barrel characteristics, opting instead for nuance and complexity while maintaining boldness and weight. Everything is seamlessly folded together in a way that will capture admiration from a wide range of drinkers. It’s tiny production wine, but it’s also a classic that’s worth seeking out. Note: this was harvested prior to the fires that damaged so much of the 2020 Napa Valley vintage, so if that’s a “hole” year in your cellar, this is a worthy selection. 97
Musa Noctuaria (Spain) Tempranillo - Garnacha 2020 ($29): Initially shy on the nose, a little airtime reveals subtle cherry and spice aromas. Things come alive quickly on the palate, with the aromatic characteristics becoming bold and beautiful. There’s real finish push here, and it keeps the flavors popping well into the distance. This will elevate any sort of red meat, from burgers to the finest beef preps. Beautiful wine! 95
Pico Zabal, Rioja DOCa (Spain) Red Wine 2022 ($25): A deep berry fruit nose with a dash of pepper leads to a pugnaciously peppery palate in this somewhat unusual Rioja, where Graciano plays a big role. All of this is to its credit, with food friendliness clearly a goal that the makers had in mind. From hearty tapas to an herb encrusted prime rib of beef, this will serve well. 94
Rayson (North Carolina) Red Wine “Elevage Select” NV ($47): Another county heard from, as they say, or another state in this case – one that’s due wider recognition when it comes to wine production. Judges wisely upgraded this wine after letting it sit for a while in the glass and letting full expression out. It’s delicious, with bright red and black berry fruit, fall spice, lively acidity, supple structure, and a finish that invites you back for more. This will literally run the table when it comes to food pairing, so don’t be shy. Contains 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 9% Petit Verdot. 94
Robert Hall, Paso Robles (San Luis Obispo County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Artisan Collection” 2021 ($20): Cabernet Sauvignon is still the king of red wines, and renditions like this one serve as exemplars. Of course, there’s a wide stylistic range possible with the variety. This falls near the center of the spectrum, with a mix of black and red berries, gentle oak toast, soft pepper, supple tannins, and a long finish where all the elements are well knit together. It’s light enough to pair with chicken or pork and will also work well with beef dishes. Nicely done, particularly at this price point. 94
Robert Hall, Paso Robles (San Luis Obispo County, California) Merlot “Artisan Collection” 2021 ($20): A bright, toasty Merlot with oodles of oak spice, and fruit character to make it work. Bold black cherry and blackberry soak up the wood tones well, and the finish though already well integrated will turn elegant as the oak folds all the way in. Serve this with serious red meat dishes. 94
Rodney Strong, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2022 ($30): Raspberry and bright Bing cherry fruit leap from the rim of this glass, with notes of powder and cinnamon joining in. Bright acidity carries the fruit from start to finish on the palate, with bright but light oak toast, fall spice and a little hint of stemmy pepper that is a great foil for the fruit. This makes for a fine solo glass, or it can be a perfect fit for your Thanksgiving table. 94
Tom Eddy, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Petite Sirah 2019 ($75): Petite Sirah is often anything but petite, but it is possible to produce a wine from it that is both elegant and approachable at an early age (and for Petite Sirah, five years old is an early age) and still maintain age-ability. This is such a wine – there’s deep blue and black fruit, savory well folded pepper, powdery fall spice and some crushed rock minerality. All this rides a creamy texture through a finish that keeps pushing flavor in waves. This is a true achievement in winemaking. 99
Wine Spots, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($58): In a set of Cabs with lots of 2022 wines in the mix, this one from California’s 2021 vintage (which I have touted ad nauseum) still to the top. A vintage that winemakers refer to as a “just don’t mess it up” year is worth seeking out while there’s still some around. This leans toward old school Napa in style, with a nice herb character celebrated rather than shied away from. This will continue to improve as the oak folds in. Tasty! 94
WHITE:
Belle Fiore, Rogue Valley (Oregon) Chardonnay 2021 ($37): There’s a lot going on in this glass of Chardonnay from Oregon’s Rogue Valley. The aromatic profile includes apple, toffee and fall spice, all of which appear as bright palate flavors and are joined by a soft herb note that serves to brighten the apple and add depth to the dry, food-friendly style. It’s time to go Rogue – and be sure to do it with a nice piece of fish. 94
Diora, Monterey (California) Chardonnay “La Splendeur du Soleil” 2022 ($20): Those of us who get the pleasure tasting a lot wine tend to notice trends, and I’ve noted of late, there’s a trend in Chardonnay toward lower alcohol, less malolactic fermentation, and generally brighter wines. That said, there is still a segment of the market that wants the big, bold, oaky style that they’ve loved for years. This wine delivers the goods in a balanced way, (with lower alcohol as well) that will satisfy more than just the oak-and-butter crowd. Style target hit squarely. 94
New Clairvaux, Tehama County (California) Viognier “St. James Block” 2023 ($20): Viognier from the USA has presented such a spectrum of styles and weights over its time here that it’s hard for consumers to know what to expect without a little guidance. I’m happy to recommend this version, which leans toward floral, stonefruit, and soft wood tones without going overtly viscous, sweet, or bittering. It’s delicious from beginning to end, and whether you dive into it as a solo glass, or with salads or seafood, it’s a beauty, and at a great price to boot. 95
Raymond (California) Chardonnay “R Collection Lot No. 3” 2023 ($15): Here’s a value leader that will please a crowd thanks to lively acidity that makes a light load of the baked apple and toasty oak flavors. There’s a little note of corn that is a personal issue with me when it comes to Chardonnay, but it’s not going to detract from your enjoyment. Party time! 91
Stonewall, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($24): Perhaps no wine announces its origin with more authority than Sauvignon Blanc, particularly when that origin is New Zealand. This wine screams its origins with G&G – gooseberry and grass – and does so in a completely convincing way without straying into what some writers politely call “feline aspects.” Satisfying from start to finish, with a nice grapefruit-y pop at the end. When the weather heats up, this will cool things off beautifully. 94
ROSÉ:
Balverne, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Rosé of Pinot Noir “Forever Wild” 2023 ($24): The range of styles for Pinot Noir certainly includes Rosé, and I’d say that there’s even a wide range of styles within the Pinot Noir Rosé category. This is a great example of what can be done in a bone dry, herb driven style that keeps varietal fruit flavors out in front. Strawberry, cherry, and mixed dried herbs are bright through the mid palate and crisp on the finish with a lingering, integrated impression. Made by Alex Holman. 94
SWEET:
Barefoot (California) Moscato NV ($7): In blind tasting competition after competition, this wine rises to top level status, and for good reason. It’s spot-on Moscato, with bright stone fruit, bright acidity and a long, balanced finish that’s not cloying – just fresh and clean. A miracle of mass production to be sure, with a fan base that keeps the bottling line humming. A total success story! 91
Barefoot on Tap (California) Red Wine “Sunset Red Blend” NV ($20/3liter box): I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again – the wine industry needs gateway products that can introduce the sugar-loving domestic population to quality wine, and if you can make a wine that carries some sweetness in a balanced fashion, it can go a long way toward creating lifelong consumers, and not just of sweet wine, but of dry wines as well. And if you can put it in a three-liter box for twenty bucks, so much the better. This producer doesn’t get adequate credit for what it’s doing for the industry at large. 92
NON-ALCOHOLIC:
Bolle Rosé Sparkling Wine NV ($30): So – non-alcoholic wine. Is it wine? Is it something else? This product has a dash of alcohol – less than .5% – which legally places it in the “NA” category. Is it good? I would say yes, it’s quite good. As a sparkling Rosé, it fills the bill with a fine mousse, a creamy texture, apple and strawberry flavors, and a citric finish that’s clean and crisp. This is just the thing you might want to have around for your non-imbibing friends for Sunday brunch, among other occasions. A timely idea. Contains Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
92
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You can see the complete list of Platinum, Gold and Silver Award Winners as well as Directors Awards for all wine and spirits at SommelierChallenge.com
