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October 27, 2021

Alois Lageder, Sudtirol, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Porer” 2019, $28

You would be hard pressed, I think, to find a more delicious Pinot Grigio than this one anywhere.  In fact, Alois Lageder’s “Porer” may make you rethink any negatibe feelings you might have about Pinot Grigio.  Among the many reasons “Porer” is so successful is that it comes from Italy’s northernmost wine region, the Alto Adige, where the weather is relatively cool.  And cool weather is essential in inspiring Pinot Grigio grapes to yield exceptionally fresh and vibrant wine.

But more than just weather is responsible for the excellence of “Porer”: Alto Adige’s diverse soils, including volcanic porphyry, calcareous/carbonate rocks, quartz, slate, mica and dolomite rocks, also play a role here.  To be sure, nature’s advantages alone can’t claim full responsibility for Lageder’s generally superior wines--enlightened viticulture and winemaking have likewise been essential over the years.  The estate has been producing Biodynamic wines since it converted to Demeter principles in 2004.  (When asked in an interview what his the biggest regret in his life has been Lageder answered, “Not converting to biodynamics sooner.”)

The Lageder family has been producing wine right here in the Alto Adige for six generations, and owns some 272 acres of vineyards.  The estate also buys fruit from several small farms across the region.  A portion of “Porer” grapes was pressed immediately after arriving at the winery, another part was kept on the skins for 15 hours and the remaining third was left in contact with stems and skins for about a year.

If you’ve never tasted Legader’s “Porer” I urge you to do yourself a favor and get a bottle right away.  Once you’ve poured yourself a glass you may even find purring as you savor the enticing aromatics, a rich blend of citrus, apple and hint of floral. In the mouth the wine is flinty, expressive, backed by refreshing acidity, generous in length, and utterly satisfying.

Posted by Marguerite Thomas at 6:08 PM