August 28, 2024

Donum Estate: The Art of Stewardship

One of the more recent perks of my wine gig is the occasional virtual visit with a single
estate.  As we know, one of the global pandemic’s “silver linings” was massively expanded use of video meeting platforms, so now I sometimes get an opportunity to sit and taste with a winemaker even though we aren’t in the same room.  No doubt this serves to reduce the carbon footprint related to my work, and the exchanges are nearly as enlightening as in-person tastings and interviews.

At Donum Estate I’m sure that’s something they’ve factored into their effort to get word about their exceptional products out to the world.  It’s a rare thing to run across a producer that’s completely serious about proper stewardship of every aspect of what they do from ground to glass and beyond, and Donum succeeds in all facets of this endeavor.  

Winemaker Dan Fishman explains that the estate is one of a small handful of wineries worldwide to be certified by the ROA (Regenerative Organic Alliance) which carries a far more serious set of demands than just being certified organic or sustainable – and the dividends are already starting to show.  Dan reports being able to cut water usage by fifty percent by using soil-appropriate cover crop in every block of vines, maintaining maximum moisture and allowing fruit sugar content to come down without compromising flavor profiles.  While expensive to get set up, regenerative farming will pay off with longer vine life, perhaps by as much a double the usual 30-ish years for Pinot Noir.  Imagine the benefit of cutting replanting costs by one hundred percent over a sixty-year time period.  Additionally, overall improvement in vine health means that a high mildew pressure vintage like 2023 didn’t affect the Donum vineyards as badly as some neighboring sites.

Donum, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Single-Vineyard” 2021 ($95):  Here’s a Pinot Noir with gravitas – from color to aroma to flavor, everything about this oozes seriousness.  Deeply layered aromas of black cherry, damp earth and brown spices are alluring, and the palate delivers on that promise with a rich texture that makes it seriously enjoyable.  It shows a little heat in the finish, which brings out a slight bittering character.  This doesn’t offend, but rather adds an extra element to an already complex package.  I’d enjoy this in the near term for its freshness.  94

Donum, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Single-Vineyard” 2022 ($75):  This displays a leaner style than the 2021, more restrained and elegant, but not at all lacking in flavor or aromatics.  A combination of notes including bright apple, pear, dried herbs, light to moderate oak influence, and energizing acidity make this a great choice for pairing with seafood.  Made without malolactic fermentation, yeast stirring, or racking.  A very hands-off wine that you’ll be glad to get your hands on.  93

Donum, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Single-Vineyard” 2022 ($95):  Yet to be released, this shows wood influence that the fruit is still working to integrate.  Again, this is not as ripe as the ’21 rendition, showing lots of dry earth and herb character.  The fruit is rather shy at present, with mushroom and graphite notes in front.  As this integrates, the lurking blackberry and cherry notes will shine.  A suggestion of sarsaparilla shows, and that will gain traction over time as well.  93

Donum, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Three Hills” 2022 ($95):  This Pinot is sourced from the three evident hills on the estate.  The first vintage of this bottling was the 2018, with the fruit selected from eastern/northern facing slopes that are exposed to less sun and heat.  It displays very concentrated aromas, with a mix of damp and dry earth along with crushed rock and ripe strawberry fruit impressions.  The earth tones shine on the palate, and a firm grip keeps the flavors dancing through the finish.  Again, this is a youngster that will unfurl its fruit elements as its grip loosens with time.  94

Donum, Carneros (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “TFV” 2022 ($95):  The source for this is the Thomas Ferguson Vineyard, which was first planted in 1974, acquired in 2016, and then replanted.  The site is marked by rocky soils, with a lot less clay content than other vineyards utilized by Donum.  This is the third harvest released after the replanting.  It will need some time to flesh out, as the tannins are more grippy than those in the “Three Hills” Pinot, but the wine already shows emerging notes of appealing raspberry and black cherry fruit.  95