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THIS ISSUE'S REVIEWS

March 12, 2024 Issue

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ARGENTINA

Mendoza:

Red:

Hoffmann Vineyards, Lujan de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec “Reserve Especial” 2020 ($32):  Hoffmann Vineyards is a label to watch, as this flagship bottling attests.  It is a right-down-the-middle example of Mendoza style, with berry fruit, moderate oak influence, easy spice and pepper notes that play together perfectly and linger long.  It is the sort of bottle that will please both the crowd and the cognoscenti, especially when served alongside grilled meats – you could go just about any color with the meat: beef, chicken, fish – all could work.  Or just enjoy it on its own.  Nice!        
94 Rich Cook Mar 12, 2024

Cocodrilo, Mendoza (Argentina) “Corte” Vina Cobos 2020 ($28, Paul Hobbs Selections):  Cocodrilo, or crocodile, is a powerful name for a powerful wine.  It has a very dark  ruby color, lightly floral black fruit aromas and concentrated black fruit in the mouth.  Bright acidity invigorates the concentrated fruit and chalky tannins give it  a chewy finish.  For me, it is not a sipping wine, it requires protein, like a grilled slab of rare beef.  It is a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petite Verdot.  Paul Hobbs is the founding partner and winemaker at Cocodrilo.  He is a well-prepared winemaker with a BA in Chemistry and a MS in viticulture and winemaking from U.C. Davis. He was on the team that created the Robert Mondavi / Mouton Rothschild collaborative Opus One wine.  He is also credited with building the recognition and regard for the Malbec grape variety.      
90 Rebecca Murphy Mar 12, 2024

Domaine Bousquet, Tupungato, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($13, Origins Organic):  Domaine Bousquet has pretty much built its brand in America on wines made from organic grapes and brought to market at extremely affordable prices, and you would be hard put to find a Cabernet that is better at anywhere near this price.  It is very satisfying with a lean, but not tart, profile of fresh blackberry flavors and good finishing acidity.  Complex?  No.  Quite enjoyable?  Yes.            
90 Roger Morris Mar 12, 2024


AUSTRALIA

South Australia:

White:

Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley (South Australia) Riesling The Contours, Single Vineyard Estate “Museum Reserve” 2015 ($42, Winebow):  The Eden Valley of South Australia, with its higher elevation and spare soils, has proven to be an exceptional site for producing fine Rieslings.  Pewsey Vale has been a producer from the High Eden since 1847.  The single vineyard Contours Museum Reserve 2015 Riesling is a lovely example of the ageing capability of fine Australian Riesling.  The Contours vineyard block was planted at 1500 feet in 1965.  The old vines yield a Riesling with added layers and elegance.  It is hand harvested, fermented with native yeasts and given a few months of aging on the lees.  The result is a lovely and complex dry Riesling.  The bouquet is forward and enticing with a striking gardenia/floral component and an array of Meyer lemon, lime, green and red apple fruit aromas.  It is clean, fresh and dry on the palate, with layers of pure fruit underlain by a rich texture and the intriguing honey, floral and spice hints that linger at the finish.  Delicious now, the Pewsey Vale Museum Block Contours Riesling will age beautifully for another five years and more.         
94 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024


FRANCE

Bordeaux:

White:

Château Latour-Martillac, Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Bordeaux, France) 2021 ($40):  The 2021 vintage, while somewhat challenging for Bordeaux red wines, was an excellent crop for whites.  Latour-Martillac Blanc is emblematic of the vivacity and complexity that can be found in 2021 Pessac-Léognan whites.  Latour-Martillac whites benefit from some of the oldest vines in Bordeaux, with some plots planted in 1884.  The nose is fresh and forward with tantalizing aromas of grapefruit, peaches, pineapple and lemon zest backed by hints of cream and herbs.  Richly textured but still lively on the palate, it offers layers of ripe peach, pineapple and grapefruit plus lemon, herbs, vanilla and spices.  It will provide delicious drinking for another 5 years and beyond.         
93 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

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Burgundy:

White:

Roseline and Lionel Bussy, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vaillons 2022 ($35, Alain Junguenet Selections):  Chablis is perhaps the most distinctive of all Chardonnay wines.  Drawn from well-sited slopes on the famous Kimmeridgian soils of the village, Chablis combines power with a raciness not found in other Chardonnays.  Roseline and Lionel Bussy’s excellent 2020 Vaillons is from one of the best Premier Cru vineyards and reflects a classic Chablisienne character.  The nose shows crisp apple and lemon fruits are interwoven with floral, nutty, herb, honey and spice nuances.  The flavors are bright and refreshing with the oyster-shell minerality of Chablis evident.  The apple and citrus flavors show lovely purity and the honey, nut and herb elements make this a delicious and thoroughly enjoyable Chablis.  Serve it with oysters or your favorite finfish or shellfish recipe.         
92 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024


ITALY

Alto Adige:

White:

Cantina Terlano, Alto Adige (Italy) Pinot Bianco Riserva "Vorberg" 2020 ($56, Banville Wine Merchants):  Cantina Terlano is a small cooperative winery in the Alto Adige region of Italy.  They make wines from some of the best vineyards in the region.  The Vorberg vineyard is a steeply-sloping site at a 1500-2000 foot elevation.  It routinely yields wines of impressive power and depth, as evidenced by this one.  It offers a beautiful display of varietal purity with aromas of peach, pear, pineapple and guava fruits backed by floral and spice hints.  The layered fruit character on the palate results in a seductive, full and creamy texture that enhances the rich fruit.  This lovely white will change your mind about Pinot Bianco.  It has the capacity to cellar well for another 5 to 8 years and beyond.       
94 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

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Calabria:

Red:

Librandi, Val di Neto IGT (Calabria, Italy) “Gravello” 2021 ($30, Winebow):  Librandi’s Gravello was introduced to the international market 30+ years ago, marrying traditional Calabrian wine style with a more modern influence.  It shows the beauty and purity of Calabria’s Gaglioppo grape – thought to be a relative of Sangiovese.  The lovely red cherry fruit of the Gaglioppo is enhanced in this case by blending with Cabernet Sauvignon.  Aged in small oak barrels for a year, the combination is delicious.  Lovely aromas of pure red cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruits are interwoven with tones of lilac, herbs, coffee, vanilla and cinnamon spice.  The flavors are forward and complex, with red and black fruits underscored by a rich texture and delicate floral, herb, coffee, vanilla and spice tones.  Super-Tuscan blends of Sangiovese and Cabernet get lots of accolades, but this Calabrian Gravello blend is as good or better than most of its price peers from the north.       
93 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

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Lombardy:

Sparkling:

Ricci Curbastro, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) Extra Brut 2019 ($50):  The best Franciacortas are brilliant, elegant and complex sparkling wines, and Ricci Curbastro is among the best producers in the appellation. They have created a truly exceptional bubbly with the 2019 Extra Brut.  Made in a very dry style (2 grams per liter of residual sugar), the 2019 Ricci Curbastro Extra Brut is pure, lively and refreshing.  It is a blend of 50% Pinot Nero and 50% Chardonnay wines from vines near the deep waters of the Lago d’Iseo.  The lake effect moderates the climate and allows for optimal ripening of the grapes.  This exquisitely balanced sparkling wine is pure, complex and delicious!  The bouquet shows a toasty, yeasty character with fresh citrus and green apple fruits enhanced by hints of flowers, cream and subtle spice.  The flavors resonate with juicy lime, lemon and green apple fruits enhanced by the subtle floral and yeasty components.  Even with its minimal residual sugar, the Ricci Curbastro Extra Brut has a deliciously creamy texture and a long, refreshing and dry finish.            
94 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

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Piedmont:

Red:

Luigi Baudana / G.D. Vajra, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2019 ($92, Rinascimento Wine Company):  The Baudana vineyard is among the most highly regarded in Serralunga d’Alba.  With a combination of clay and sand soils and a perfect southwest facing aspect, Baudana Nebbiolo grapes have provided elegance and finesse to some of Barolo’s finest wines.  The Luigi Baudana estate was purchased by the Vajra family in 2008 but is run as a separate entity.  The 2019 Baudana Barolo is an elegant, appealing and complex wine.  While it shows the ripeness of the harvest and the sleek and subtle spiciness of oak, the unique style of the Nebbiolo grape shows clearly.  Layers of juicy raspberry, red plum and cherry fruits are underlain by floral rose hints and elements of leather, sandalwood, tea and spice.  The flavors are elegant and complex, with the delicate fruits enveloped by the classic, leafy, forest floor character of fine Barolo.  The beautiful, long finish reveals the inherent breadth and complexity of the wine.  Delicious now, it can cellar well for another 20 years.       
95 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024

Stefano Orcchetti, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Nebbiolo 2021 ($40, Wine Drops):  Stefano Orcchetti might just be the newest winemaker in Piedmont, but his up-and-coming style is both classical and refreshing.  This Langhe Nebbiolo is a step above the standard.  Classic red cherry and cranberry notes are supported by rose petal, tar, and chamomile with a swirl of chocolate on the body.  Nebbiolo is a classically tannic and acidic wine — both characteristics help the wine age in the bottle — but Stefano’s style produces a balance that makes the wine approachable despite Nebbiolo’s angsty youth.  Langhe Nebbiolo is my choice when I’m looking for a young, grippy but fruit-accessible red.             
92 Vince Simmon Mar 12, 2024

Stefano Orcchetti, Roero DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) Nebbiolo Sanche 2021 ($50, Wine Drops):  Stefano Orcchetti left the corporate lifestyle to return to Roero and make wine like his grandfather.  While his production is still relatively small — he is, after all, pretty much making wine out of his garage — his wines are true to the region and high quality.  This single-vineyard Nebbiolo is grown in the Sanche vineyard, located in the hills of Vezza d’Alba and a convenient 2km drive from Stefano’s winery.  The wine’s red fruit presents sweet with a tart kick and floral notes to provide complexity.  Sanche will benefit from further cellar aging but, with a production of roughly 1500 bottles, you will need to grab a bottle before they run out.        
93 Vince Simmon Mar 12, 2024

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Sardinia:

White:

Argiolas, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy) “Costamolino” 2022 ($16, Winebow):  Vermentino is a deliciously aromatic and flavorful grape variety that yields especially fine wines on the island of Sardinia.  The grapes for the Argiolas 2022 Costamolino Vermentino were grown on the southern part of the island and fermented at a cool temperature to enhance the fruit character of the wine.  It has a forward bouquet of linden flower, peach, lemon, lime and subtle herbs.  On the palate, it shows rich peach and citrus fruits underlain by a full texture and elements of herbs and lime zest.  It’s a perfect choice for flavorful seafood recipes or other Mediterranean dishes.          
90 Wayne Belding Mar 12, 2024


PORTUGAL

White:

Miles, Madeira (Portugal) “Rainwater” Medium Dry NV ($18, Vineyard Brands):  Those who are fans of drier shades of Sherry, as I am, should try their Portuguese counterparts from this rugged Atlantic island. This non-vintage, fortified wine is both moderately sweet but nevertheless quite refreshing, with nutty (pecan for starters), orange peel and bar bitters flavors and enough acidity to keep it interesting.  Ice cubes in the summer wouldn’t hurt, and you can pair it with spicier Asian cuisine.            
89 Roger Morris Mar 12, 2024

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Alentejo:

White:

Esporão, Alentejo (Portugal) Reserva Branco 2022 ($23, New Wine Imports):  From one of the pioneers of this southern Portuguese region, this is a very impressive wine both in structure and flavors, a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto and Roupeiro that has been subtly aged on fine lees in stainless and new oak.  It is medium in weight with flavors of white peach and tropical fruits and a long floral finish balanced by light tannins.         
92 Roger Morris Mar 12, 2024


SPAIN

White:

Envínate, Canary Islands (Spain) “Palo Blanco” 2020 ($57, José Pastor Selections):  Envínate (Wine Yourself), a group of four friends, makes outstanding wines from different parts of Spain, focusing on the Canary Islands.  This 2020 Palo Blanco is made of 100 percent Lístan Blanco, better known as Palomino, grown in an ancient vineyard high up on Tenerife in the Canaries.  It offers enticing aromas of tropical fruit underscored by delicate floral notes and a hint of distinctive minerality.  The wine is high-toned on the palate with refreshing acidity and zesty lemon and grapefruit notes, mingled with hints of ripe pear and green apple, adding complexity and depth to the lingering saltwater finish.          
92 Miranda Franco Mar 12, 2024

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Galicia:

White:

Daterra Viticultores, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) “Erea do Pobo” 2020 ($60, José Pastor Selections):  Sadly, Daterra, the personal project of the incredibly talented Laura Lorenzo, has stopped the production of white wine.  So, the remaining bottles of Daterra Erea do Pobo on the market are likely all that remain.  Lorenzo is one of a few vintners who recently spearheaded a renaissance in Ribeira Sacra.  Her Erea do Pobo 2020 is a highly aromatic and elegant blend of 80 to 120-year-old Godello, Doña Blanca, and Treixadura.  It has fantastic lingering flavors of orchard fruit core, yellow grapefruit, white blossoms, and wild sage, all wrapped around a core of sea salt-laden minerality.  It has an intriguing texture with a dry, long, and utterly superb finish.         
95 Miranda Franco Mar 12, 2024


UNITED STATES

California:

Red:

Bouchaine, Carneros - Napa Valley (California) Pinot Noir Estate 2021 ($45):  Bouchaine is one of those rare premium wineries in Napa Valley that has produced consistently high-quality wines, especially Pinot and Chardonnay, since the late 1970s without all the drama of ownership changes or dramatic shifts in style as one winemaker takes over for the old one.  But consistency doesn’t have to be boring.  Cris Kijani has here produced a very enjoyable, medium body Pinot with plump cherry flavors, some creaminess in flavor and texture, a few notes of pencil lead and good finishing acidity without being crisp or lean.    
92 Roger Morris Mar 12, 2024

Concannon Vineyard, Livermore Valley (California) Petite Sirah Reserve, “Nina’s Cuvée” 2021 ($40):  Concannon is a true California heritage label, and Petite Sirah has always been its main calling card.  I’ve tasted 30-year-old versions that are still firing on all cylinders, and this current special cuvée is a likely standout in the storied history.  Over the years they have become more approachable in their youth, as this one is, but they haven’t sacrifice structure or longevity in the process.  Don’t miss this!          
94 Rich Cook Mar 12, 2024

Frog's Leap Winery, Napa Valley (California) Zinfandel 2020 ($40):  I love to highlight producers that are making interesting and energetic Zinfandels, and Frog's Leap's 2020 Napa Zinfandel fits that bill.  Right from the pour, the wine's translucence intimates that this is not a high-alcohol, stewed-fruit (and let's be honest, frequently flabby) Zin of yesteryear.  This wine is bursting with energetic notes of fresh blueberries and blackberries.  At 14.5% alcohol by volume, the wine has body, but it isn't hot and it isn't heavy.   To the contrary, nice acidity keeps things fresh throughout, while a mixture of American oak and concrete aging provides balanced notes of wood and baking spice.   To top it off, it is a relative bargain at $40 (we are still talking Napa fruit, after all).        
91 John McDermott Mar 12, 2024

Eberle Winery, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Barbera 2021 ($40):  Long committed to this variety and what it can do in Paso Robles, this bottling from an exceptional vintage shows exactly why Eberle sticks to its guns.  This has all the charm of a Piedmont example, but with significantly more weight, texture, and power.  Black cherry fruit, oak spice and an earthy component play well together and finish long and well-integrated already – I have had these bottlings at up to ten years of age, and they never disappoint.    
94 Rich Cook Mar 12, 2024

Four Sisters Ranch, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “Opalessence” Red Wine 2019 ($38):  This wine hits the mark for a Cali Franco offering just on the bold side of center thanks to the presence of Malbec and Petit Verdot in a fairly large amount.  They offset the Cabernet’s backbone by adding some plushness without compromising the structure.  A later release benefits, as this is just beginning to really shine.  Drink now or hold up to ten years.  Contains 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot.       
94 Rich Cook Mar 12, 2024

High Camp Wines, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Estate Reserve 2021 ($45):  Aromas of mixed dark berry fruit are joined by notes of dill, earth and toasty oak, all of which show together as palate flavors.  A little grip holds the wood spice in suspension with the fruit, and they finish with the dill coming slightly forward.  Fire up the grill and serve this with a mixed meat platter.  Contains 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petite Sirah, 15% Petit Verdot and 5% Sangiovese.          
90 Rich Cook Mar 12, 2024

The Fableist Wine Co., Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon "373" 2022 ($25):  Andrew Jones, winemaker for Field Recordings and Curt Schalchlin, owner of Sans Liege which is best known for its Rhône wines combine their talents for the Fableist collection of wines.  The names are based on Aesop’s Fables, and apparently, fable #373 is about ants and bugs.  Or whatever!  Moving on to the wine, in the 2022 vintage the fruit was picked earlier than usual due to the heat wave.  Fermented in tanks and aged in American oak barrels, 10% new, the final blend was 85% Cabernet filled out by Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah.  Once poured, this wine shows fresh blackberry and currant aromas and flavors with youthful tannin poking through.  With aeration, it slowly opens and adds a little spice and cedar to accompany the juicy dark fruits.  Needs time to settle down and should be decanted.  A good value for a Paso Cabernet.               
90 Norm Roby Mar 12, 2024

Frog's Leap Winery, Rutherford - Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Williams Rossi” 2018 ($125):  The Williams Rossi label is Frog's Leap's "reserve label."  The grapes for these wines are selected in field — only the best parcels of grapes are in contention for these wines, and from there, only the best barrels of the best grapes receive the distinction of this label.  On top of this, the winery ages these wines longer than their other labels, with 2018 being the current release of the Cabernet Sauvignon.  Those six years of aging play well in this wine, as it shows an enticing combination of dark cherries and cassis, alongside notes of autumn leaves and tree moss.   The wine is still structured, with a bit of grip, but the tannins have tamed from their youth.  This wine will continue to age gracefully over the next decade.              
93 John McDermott Mar 12, 2024

Cormorant Cellars, Santa Cruz Mountains (California) Black Ridge Vineyard Red Wine 2021 ($47):  This is not the wine for people who like big, complex, fruity red wines that have some heft to them.  This is a wine for people who want a leaner, more-disciplined wine and who, after a few sips that get the juices flowing, become impatient for the food to arrive.  This is a table wine, period.  A blend of three-quarters Merlot and about a quarter Cabernet Sauvignon, it is lean and somewhat tart with mainly red-fruit flavors and hints of blueberry, fresh mint and dark chocolate.        
91 Roger Morris Mar 12, 2024

Imagery Estate Winery, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) “Noir Nouveau” 2022 ($49):  This is “nouveau” much more in the sense of being innovative than just “young” in the sense of Beaujolais Nouveau.  The blend is 87% Pinot Noir, 8% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre, and though most tasters would likely identify it as Pinot if tasting it blind, many would also guess there’s some surreptitious muscle lurking beneath the surface — rather like Clark Kent in a business suit.  Straddling the line between light- and medium-bodied, is shows savory notes in addition to the more standard red cherry Pinot fruit scents and flavors.  Any sacrifice of Pinot-like purity and restraint is made up for by the depth of flavor and enhanced complexity provided by the Syrah and Mourvedre components.  This seems thoughtfully constructed rather than just juked up.         
93 Michael Franz Mar 12, 2024

White:

Anthill Farms Winery, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Helluva Vineyard White Wine 2022 ($39):  Anthill Farms entered the industry in 2003 with a focus on producing high-quality single-vineyard Pinot Noirs.  Their success has enabled them to expand winemaking operations to include this head-turner of a white wine.  Bright acidity and rich apple orchard fruit brings an elevated white wine with the feng shui of an apple cider.  This white blend still has a lot going on with lychee, nectarine, red apple, geranium, and honeysuckle notes.  The wine also benefits greatly from partial oak aging giving it a wonderful round mouthfeel.  The blend is comprised of 60% Pinot Gris, 20% Pinot Noir and 20% Gewürztraminer.  When Robert Frost gives you a fork in the road, follow the path towards Anthill Farms.          
93 Vince Simmon Mar 12, 2024

Bouchaine, Carneros - Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay Estate 2021 ($40):  Bouchaine President and Winemaker, Chris Kajani, a Napa native, is a Burgundian aficionado.  Her passion shows in this Chardonnay she created from cool-climate Carneros.  She shows a deft touch with 50% malolactic fermentation, which softens the acidity,  and 18% French new oak, adding structure and mouthfeel without oak flavor.  The result is a stylish, elegant wine that offers a light yellow color with a hint of gold, fresh aromas, and flavors of Meyer lemon, ripe apple, and pear.  It is fresh and lively in the mouth, indicating that it would stand up to a firm-fleshed fish or a ripe cheese.         
96 Rebecca Murphy Mar 12, 2024

Frog's Leap Winery, Rutherford - Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc Concrete Aged 2022 ($55):  With one year of lees aging in concrete eggs, the 2022 Frog's Leap Concrete Aged Sauvignon Blanc is a refreshing take on Napa Sauvignon Blanc.  The slightly alkaline environment of the concrete eggs neutralizes a bit of the acidity in the Sauvignon Blanc.  Combine that with a full year of lees aging, and the result is a nuanced, pretty wine, with finessed notes of grapefruit and lemongrass.  The acidity is still high enough to be refreshing, but not as loud as it so often is in new world Sauvignon Blanc.           
92 John McDermott Mar 12, 2024

Curran, Santa Barbara County (California) Grenache Blanc 2022 ($22):  Kris Curran rose to fame as winemaker for Sea Smoke.  In 1997, she started her own label and has been offering a Grenache Blanc since 2003.  Entirely stainless steel fermented and with no malo-lactic, this is an all-purpose white to enjoy as an aperitif but it has the body and vibrancy to complement full-flavored entrees.  It offers bright aromas of melon and mango with some lime and floral notes.  The texture is pleasantly smooth and mouth-coating with decent acidity to add length.  Melon flavors continue through the lingering aftertaste.        
90 Norm Roby Mar 12, 2024

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Oregon:

Red:

Leah Jorgensen Cellars, Southern Oregon (United States) Cabernet Franc “Clos Rogue Valley” 2015 ($50):  If Leah Jorgensen’s wines are not on your radar, they should be.  She is known for her dedication to Cabernet Franc, where she focuses on making expressive interpretations of France’s Loire Valley wines centered around Cabernet Franc, which is grown in Southern Oregon.  Her 2015 Clos Rouge Valley Cabernet Franc is lifted with aromas and flavors of ripe cherry, black currant, violets, vanilla, coffee, and cherry tobacco.  It is deliciously multi-layered with excellent structure and acidity.  The long and lingering finish keeps you coming back for more.                 
92 Miranda Franco Mar 12, 2024

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