SPAIN

Red:

Primitivo Quiles, Alicante (Spain) “Raspay” 2002 ($23, Vinos & Gourmet): This is an old-fashioned Spanish red made from 100% old vine (50 years or so) Monastrell (Mourvédre) grapes and aged for twelve months in American oak barrels.  When drinking it, aromas and flavors that play a secondary role in many other wines become primary, and fruit--here dried rather than fresh--takes a supporting part.  The sharp taste of oak is but one in a compelling mélange, along with flavors that echo cedar, leather, nuts, spice, earth and more.  (There also is a slightly oxidized note in the bouquet, not unlike a dry sherry.)  The absence of fresh fruit flavor means that this definitely is not a wine for everyone.  But it's undeniably intriguing, and if your tastes run towards traditional European styles, odds are strong that you'll love it. 90 Paul Lukacs May 19, 2009

Leva, Alicante (Spain) "Daniel's" 2003 ($36, Grapes of Spain): Impressively dark color, this displays ripe, fruity aromas accented by soft, subtle oak scents. Purity and freshness are the most prominent characteristics, but the wine shows excellent depth of fruit, with ripe flavors of black plums and cherries. There is plenty of tannin to structure the fruit, but it is very ripe in character and very fine in grain, leaving the texture of the wine soft and rounded. Charming, sexy stuff. 89 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Envínate, Almansa (Spain) Garnacha Tintorera “Albahra Chingao” 2021 ($35, Llaurador Wines):  Envínate is an exciting project from Spain, focusing on making terroir-driven wines from mainly Atlantic-influenced regions. Albahra ("small sea" in the local dialect) Chingao is Envínate's 100% Garnacha Tintorera grown in the Almansa region of Spain.  Almansa is a relatively unknown wine region, halfway between La Mancha and the Mediterranean Coast, that's churning out some noteworthy wines.  The 2021 Albahra Chingao delivers deep, juicy, supple aromas of raspberry, cherry skin, muddled strawberry, crushed rose petal, and sweet baking spice.  It is vibrant and seamless on the palate, filling the mouth with smooth tannins, gorgeous swells of ripe berry fruit, and just the right amount of savoriness.     
93 Miranda Franco May 2, 2023

Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) "Castillo de Almansa Selección" 2007 ($23, Vineyard Varieties):  This high-octane (14.5% stated alcohol) blend of equal parts Garnacha Tintorera (aka Alicante), Monastrell, Tempranillo and Syrah, delivers power--no surprise there--and elegance.  The Syrah adds a ripe pluminess without eviscerating the underlying intrigue and savory notes of the other grapes.  Aging in French oak barrels adds polish without dominating.  It’s a blend that accomplishes the often-elusive goal of marrying an international variety successfully with indigenous ones.  Its suaveness and balance allows you to enjoy it now.  Best with robust fare. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2012

Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla La Mancha, Spain) Monastrell “Valcanto” 2010 ($10, Vineyard Varieties):  Bodegas Piqueras is the major producer of bottled (as opposed to bulk) wine in Almansa, a less well known DO in Castilla - La Mancha, Spain’s largest wine area.  This wine, made entirely from Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvèdre) has appealing meaty or leathery undertones that offset its ripe bright fruitiness.  Those savory notes are right at home with the wine’s chewy texture.  This superb value wine would be good for grilled meats this summer or hearty fare this winter.  My advice is to stock up. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2012

Higueruela, Almansa (Spain) 2004 ($10, Grapes of Spain): Crafted entirely from old vine Garnacha without any oak contact, this is packed with fruit. However, it is neither simple nor grapey, as notes of anise, damp earth and leather accent the cherry and plum fruit notes to make this enduringly interesting. Very nicely integrated, it has lots of stuffing and plenty of tannin, but is nicely rounded and soft through the finish. 88 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Loma Gorda, Almansa (Spain) 2004 ($12, Grapes of Spain): Leave it to Aurelio Cabestrero, owner of Grapes of Spain, to find an inexpensive delicious wine from the virtually unknown Denominación de Origen (DO) of Almansa, southwest of Valencia, not far from the Mediterranean. Made by a cooperative, the wine is 2/3 Garnacha, 1/3 Syrah and 100% enjoyable. Surprisingly refined, its ripe fruit and attractive spice will please the palate and the pocketbook. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Villa de Corullon” 2012 ($40, Rare Wine Company): Almost a decade ago, Oscar Alegre, export manager at Descendientes de J. Palacios, told me, referring to Bierzo, that “Nobody in Spain thinks quality wine comes from here.”   I do not know whether the thinking in Spain has changed, but I can assure you that very high quality, exciting wines come from Bierzo, especially those made by Descendientes de J. Palacios.  The wines impressed me then and still do.  Villa de Corullon is the label Palacios uses for wines blended from several vineyards they own -- all planted with Mencia -- in the village of Corullon.  Less accessible than Pétolas at this stage, it’s more minerally and tarry, but more sleek and elegant.  A subtle leafiness and spice just adds intrigue.  Although it shows plenty of black fruit character, this wine is not just about fruitiness, by a long shot.  Indeed, it’s the non-fruit elements that are captivating.  Despite its size, it has tremendous elegance.  But it’s best left in the cellar for a few years.  Enjoy the Pétolas while you wait.  You won’t suffer.
94 Michael Apstein Oct 6, 2015

Bodegas Luna Beberide, Bierzo (León, Spain) Mencia "Art" 2017 ($55, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This excellent producer has turned in a wonderful performance with this wine in 2017, making a rich and generous rendition that displays the warmth of the growing season while still retaining the freshness that makes old vine, high-elevation Mencía so exciting.  Deeply pigmented and medium-plus in body, this has already soaked up almost all the overtly oaky notes from its upbringing, with only some lovely spice notes showing at this point, accenting the black cherry and red berry fruit (plus the lightest touch of wood tannin providing just a bit of extra grip in the finish).  Sip after sip, it shows virtually perfect balance between ripe fruit and bright acidity, and also between textural softness and structural spine for future development.  My guess is that both 2016 and 2018 will ultimately be regarded as great vintages in Bierzo that will somewhat surpass 2017, but both will take longer to reveal all their charms, whereas this wine is already fantastic, and will surely get even better for another five years.    
93 Michael Franz Aug 25, 2020

Paixar, Bierzo (Spain) 2002 ($80, Grapes of Spain): If you've never heard of the Mencia grape, and are resistant to the notion that anything this obscure could make truly great wine, this wine will prove a revelation to you. It is very dark and densely concentrated, yet it has real grace as well. The fruit shows intense dark berry notes, and these are coupled with a significant but well-measured dose of smoky, spicy oak. A graphite aromatic note provides an accent that gets the wine off to a great start, and lovely mineral notes in the finish bring it to a brilliant conclusion. 93 Michael Franz Oct 3, 2006

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Pétalos” 2013 ($19, Rare Wine Company): Palacios is one of the most famous and revered names in Spanish winemaking.  Alvaro Palacios, along with others, is credited with the revival of the entire Priorat region.  Now at his family’s estate in Rioja, he is energizing and reconfiguring how people think about wines from that region.  His nephew, Ricardo, is responsible for the outpost in Bierzo, still a relatively unknown area in northwestern Spain.  Bierzo will not remain unknown for long as the public discovers the dazzling wines Palacios produces there from the Mencia grape.  This one, Pétalos, is made from a combination of their own grapes plus some purchased from neighbors.  Minerally and firm, it has a seemingly paradoxical austerity and richness with a slight appealing tarriness in the finish.  This is an extraordinary bargain for the excitement it delivers.  Few under $20 wines show this kind of complexity that unfolds in the glass.  This easy-to-recommend wine is perfect for the heartier dishes of fall and winter.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 6, 2015

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Spain) Mencia Finca la Cuesta 2010 ($22, Grapes of Spain): This is a marvelously pure and fresh rendition of Mencia, showing quite modest oak influence and rather light tannin, but still plenty of structure derived much more from acidity than any other element.  It shows fruit with both red and black cherry tones as well as blackberry character, with plenty of punch for serving with robust foods but no excessive weight, making it very promising for lighter fare based on duck, pork or veal.  Already a compelling wine, this will become even more interesting with time as it picks up tertiary aromas and flavor accents.
92 Michael Franz Nov 19, 2013

Bodegas Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Spain) Finca la Cuesta 2014 ($23, Grapes of Spain): Made with 100% Mencia grapes, this is a hearty and quite substantial red, marked as much by earthy, leathery flavors as by fruit-driven ones.  It exhibits impressive length on the palate, always evolving, even long after it’s been swallowed.  Do note that its tannins are fairly tight and astringent, making it much more of a food wine than a stand-alone sipper.
91 Paul Lukacs Apr 18, 2017

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Pétalos” 2010 ($22, The Rare Wine Company): Ricardo Perez and his uncle, Alvaro Palacios, whose last name is synonymous with great Spanish wine, are putting Bierzo and its unique grape, Mencia, on the world’s wine stage.  Located in rural middle of nowhere northwestern Spain, Bierzo never had a reputation for producing fine wine.   Perez and Palacios are changing that.  Made from a combination of estate and purchased fruit, Pétalos is their “entry level” wine.  And what an entrance.  Overall, it’s an intense wine that avoids heaviness.  It has an enchanting combination of floral, herbal and mineral elements that complement the dark black fruit notes.  Supple tannins and an uplifting freshness allow you to enjoy it now.  But no mistake, this is seriously classy wine that will develop nicely over the next few years.
91 Michael Apstein Mar 12, 2013

Hombros, Bierzo (Spain) Mencia 2012 ($28, South River Imports):  Earthy, spicy, and teeming with dense fruit flavors (blackberries, blueberries, dark cherries) this compelling wine from Spain’s Northwestern sector is well worth seeking out.  A profusion of succulent tannins and a long, tasty finish are further bonuses.
91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 10, 2018

Losada, Bierzo (Spain) 2011 ($23, Classical Wines from Spain): Bierzo may lack the name recognition of Rioja, but its wines can be equally memorable.  The Mencía grape, historically known for making dilute wines from over cropped vines, can make stunning wines, such as this one, when the vines are planted on the rocky hillsides in this northwestern region of Spain.  Losada’s Bierzo combines black fruit flavors with deep minerality to produce a wine with power, persistence and harmonizing gracefulness.  An alluring subtle bitterness in the finish means that if you pair this wine with a steak tonight, you’ll be very happy.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2014

Bodegas Peique, Bierzo (Spain) Mencia 2005 ($15, Vinos & Gourmet/José Pastor Selection): A very appealing, soft red, with raspberry fruit flavors and a fresh, lively personality.  The tannins are very soft, so don't drink this with really hearty fare.  But at a picnic, this wine should shine.  You could even serve it slightly chilled. 88 Paul Lukacs Sep 11, 2007

Descendientes de Jose Palacios, Bierzo DO (Basque Country, Spain) Mencia “Petalos” 2020 ($22, Polaner Selections):  Alvaro Palacios, producer of one of Spain’s most expensive wines, L’Ermita from the Priorat region, is also the producer in partnership with his nephew, Ricardo Perez Palacios, of this more modestly priced wine from the Mencia grape grown in the Bierzo region of Spain.  In their hands, it is a complex, deeply colored dark ruby wine with delectable, lush, blackberry, plum, black cherry fruit enhanced with herbal, floral notes.  It is full bodied and well balanced with zesty acidity and ripe, well-integrated tannins.  It pairs well with an array of flavors like barbeque beef, mushroom risotto, or pepperoni pizza.    
94 Rebecca Murphy Nov 15, 2022

Alberto Orte, Cádiz (Andalucia, Spain) Tintilla de Rota “Vara y Pulgar” 2017 ($24, Ole & Obrigado):  The 2017 Vara y Pulgar is produced with Tintilla de Rota, the local strain of Graciano, which pretty much disappeared after the Phylloxera epidemic in the early 20th century.  However, Alberto Orte recovered cuttings from a few still-standing Tintilla vines and has propagated enough to produce the first 100% Tintilla in over a century in the Jerez region.  Vibrant fruit flavors dominate the palate, with raspberries, cherries, and ripe plums taking center stage.  Layers of cracked pepper spice add depth and intrigue.  The wine's vibrant acidity provides freshness and lift, while velvety tannins contribute to a smooth and luxurious mouthfeel.  With its bold fruit flavors, intricate spice notes, and elegant structure, this offers a memorable drinking experience.         
91 Miranda Franco Feb 13, 2024

San Alejandro, Calatayud (Spain) Garnacha "Las Rocas Vinas Viejas" 2003 ($14, Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars): Although Spanish regulators awarded the Calatayud region, about 150 miles northeast of Madrid, D.O. status (official recognition as a unique wine growing area) about 15 years ago, it remains obscure, which probably explains why such bargains as this one still abound.  San Alejandro, the region's major co-operative, has access to fruit from its members' vinas viejas (old vines) because few have had the resources--or interest--in replanting.  Solomon convinced the co-op to bottle some wine from 100 year-old Garnacha vines separately because he knows that old vines, with their deep root system, produce grapes with more flavor and aroma.  The result is a great wine at a wonderful price.  The 2003 has an almost magical combination of lush black fruit, spice and intensity without sacrificing refinement.  It's an outstanding value. 92 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Spain) Garnacha 2009 ($14, Las Rocas USA): Spain remains a leading source for high quality reasonably priced wines, such as this one.  It’s a boisterous wine, suitable for grilled lamb and the like, but balances its 15.2% stated alcohol with more than just fruit flavors.  To be sure, there are plenty of those, ranging from dark strawberry-like to plum-like.  But spice and subtle earthy notes hold your interest.  Mild tannins make it suitable for current consumption, but its size makes it more suitable with robust fare as opposed to a sipping red before dinner.  It’s a great value.
88 Michael Apstein Sep 25, 2012

Tres Ojos, Calatayud (Spain) Garnacha/ Tempranillo 2008 ($10, Kysela): It is not easy to find high-quality dry rosé at this price level.  With nice red cherry and red raspberry fruit, fresh acidity, and a pleasantly bitter edge (akin to citrus rind) to the finish, this will work well as a stand-alone sipper or a partner for a wide range of summer foods. 86 Michael Franz Jun 23, 2009

Alto Moncayo, Campo de Borja (Spain) Garnacha “Veraton" 2018 ($34, Winebow):  Bodegas Alto Moncayo was founded in 2002 with the aim of turning it into a world reference for Garnacha wines of the highest quality, crafted from some of the oldest native vine clones in the area.  The 2018 Veraton is produced exclusively with Garnacha grapes from vines planted in the 1970s and 1980s.  The bouquet exudes generous spice, smoke, and blue and black fruit.  Spice-laden black plum and cherries show on the dense palate and are framed with fresh acidity and supple tannins — somewhat reminiscent of a richer and spicier Pinot Noir.  It culminates with a rich, flavorful, and long finish.   
93 Miranda Franco Feb 15, 2022

Fronton de Oro, Canary Islands (Spain) Tinto 2020 ($20, Bowler Imports): Made from the Canary Islands' superstar indigenous grape, Listán Negro (and a touch of Tintilla), the Fronton de Oro Tinto is eminently drinkable.  Bright in color, it is juicy, but with bright acidity indicative of the Canary Island's soaring altitudes.  It is packed with raspberry, strawberry, red plum, black tea, lavender, and a touch of smoke, reminding me of French Syrah, or perhaps Italian Barbera.  A must-try for anyone who loves distinctive volcanic wines.       
91 Miranda Franco May 17, 2022

Castillo de Monseran, Carinena (Spain) Garnacha "Old Vine" 2004 ($12, Appellation Imports): An upscale version of their regular Garnacha, the "Old Vine" selection is aged in oak barrels for six months. The judicious use of oak adds a creamy patina without overwhelming the attractive fruity spiciness. The lip-smacking cherry acidity keeps it lively throughout the meal. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006

Castillo de Monseran, Carinena (Spain) Garnacha 2005 ($6, Appellation Imports): I haven't had a $6 wine I could recommend this enthusiastically in years. Yes, the label is confusing because Cariñena, the geographical applellation of the wine, is also the name of a grape, though not the grape from which this wine is made. It is made from Garnacha (Grenache, in France), but who cares what the grape is when you have a pleasant, bright, spicy everyday wine. It has real character and, at $6 a bottle, it should leap off store shelves. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2006

Bodegas Virgen del Agulia-Paniza, Cariñena (Spain) Garnacha Vina Vejas de Paniza 2012 ($14, Vinaio Imports): It’s curious -- and perhaps confusing -- that the primary grape of the Cariñena region is Garnacha and not Cariñena (a.k.a., Carignan in French and Carignano in Italian, and generally spelled “Carignane” in the U.S.A.).  That said, there’s nothing confusing about this wine -- it’s terrific.  The old vines (vina vejas) must account for the wine’s complexity -- a seamless combination of ripe fruitiness and spice.  The paradoxically subtle but persistent wild strawberry-like character of Garnacha is apparent without being sweet.  Suave tannins provide appropriate structure without intruding on the wine’s finesse.  This is a wonderful wine for hearty fare this winter.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2016

Aylés, Cariñena (Spain) Garnacha 2004 ($10, Grapes of Spain): This very fine wine shows how interesting and delicious Garnacha (a.k.a. Grenache) can be when taken seriously and sourced from low yielding old vines. Deeper and more concentrated than most Grenache-based Côte du Rhones, but more graceful and vinous than the monsters from South Australia, this is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced. Fresh aromas of red and black cherries are augmented by subtle oak accents and emerging notes of smoke and leather. 88 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Aylés, Cariñena (Spain) Garnacha 2004 ($11, Grapes of Spain): This unusually complex rendition of Garnacha melds the soft red cherry fruit of the grape with interesting accents of saddle leather, tobacco leaves, spices and smoke.  Soft in texture but deeply flavored, this is a delicious sipping wine that can also work beautifully with more robust preparations of fish or chicken as well as white meats like pork or veal. 87 Michael Franz Apr 17, 2007

Segura Viudas, Cava (Spain) Aria Estate Brut NV ($12, Freixenet USA): Always ranking among the best Cavas, Aria by Segura Viudas displays fresh, tangy flavors that make it a very appealing party choice this time of year.  It has sufficient body to hold its own with food, and at the same time is fresh and fruity so can be enjoyed on its own as an aperitif.  The quality is very high given the low price. 89 Paul Lukacs Dec 26, 2006

Museum Real, Cigales (Spain) Reserva 2002 ($24, Frederick Wildman & Sons): This region of Spain is known primarily for its rose, though the old Tempranillo (known as Tinta del Pais in the region) vines planted in rocky soils similar to those seen in Chateauneuf-du-Pape have become a recent curiosity. Museum Real has realized the potential of these naturally low-yield vineyards with several excellent vintages of its benchmark red wine. The 2002 Reserva is typical of previous vintages, showing concentration and depth, generous aromas of red fruit and spice, and a touch of the mandatory earthiness. 91 Robert Whitley Aug 15, 2006

Castell del Remei, Costers del Segre (Spain) "Gotim Bru" 2004 ($11, Eric Solomon Selections): Castell del Remei judiciously blends Ull de Llebre-literally, the 'hare's eye' and the local Catalan name for Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to make Gotim Bru.  They avoid the pitfall of making an 'international' wine dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, instead delivering a unique, spicy, yet refined wine.  It's a great value. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006

Marques de Griñon, Dominio de Valdepusa (Spain) "Emeritus" 2000 ($90, Möet-Hennessy USA): This stunning wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Verdot, and though it is really an international wine with little particular sense of place, I find myself uncharacteristically indifferent to that fact. Concentrated and deeply flavorful with very expressive aromatics, it is nevertheless graceful at every turn, with nicely balanced oak lending notes of spices, vanilla and toast without obscuring the pure, dark berry fruit. Although the wine is quite soft in texture, it shows lots of little nuances that will take time to unwind and show themselves more fully. Nevertheless, it is already easy to find notes of blackberry and cassis, along with accents of tobacco leaf and cedar. Pricey though this may be, it is commensurately classy in every respect. One can only imagine how great the finished rendition of this wine will be from the historically great 2001 vintage. 93 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

Marques de Grinon, Dominio de Valdepusa (Spain) “Caliza” 2004 ($22, Moet Hennessy USA): Marques de Grinon's estate, Dominio de Valdepusa, is considered one of Spain's vinous gems.  It was Spain's first Denominación de Origen (DO) Pago, or officially recognized single estate.  (To date there are still only two other estates).  A Pago is a smart and innovative category that identifies great properties that may be located outside of a DO and otherwise would have no official recognition.  Marques de Grinon's first wine to use Graciano, an indigenous Spanish grape, Caliza (which means limestone in Spanish) is a glorious blend of 2/3rds Syrah and 1/3 Graciano.  Black fruit flavors are prominent in this substantial wine, but do not overwhelm attractive elements of spice and earth.  It has uncommon suaveness for this kind of power. 92 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007

Marques de Griñon, Dominio de Valdepusa (Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($40, Möet-Hennessy USA): Obviously, we don't need to turn to Spain to get great Cabernet, but this wine is so good that I'd strongly recommend that you do exactly that. With a very impressive combination of depth and intensity on the one hand and nuanced restraint on the other, this is an exceptionally well made wine. Oak is perfectly tuned to the fruit, and the texture is every bit as good as the aroma and flavor. A complete, convincing wine that also offers quite good value when measured against $45 Cabernet-based wines from Napa or Bordeaux. 92 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

Marques de Griñon, Dominio de Valdepusa (Spain) Petite Verdot 2002 ($40, Möet-Hennessy USA): Tasting this wine makes one wonder why Spain is not awash in Petite Verdot, though I suspect that other cultivars might also show this sort of excellence if lavished with similar care in a comparably superb location. In any case, this wine shows lovely aromas and flavors of blueberry, toast, spices and smoke, with medium body but very expressive, focused flavors that hold up quite well with food. Yet, thanks to very fine tannins and judiciously subtle wood, it can work well with more subtle foods like pork or veal, and need not be paired with something as robust as steak. 90 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

Marques de Griñon, Dominio de Valdepusa (Spain) "Summa Varietalis" 2002 ($30, Möet-Hennessy USA): Very complex and interesting, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Verdot shows expressive fruit notes without being overt or seeming over-ripe. Red and black berry notes are framed with just enough spicy, smoky oak to enhance with wine without distracting from its very appealing core. Soft, fine-grained tannins are also symmetrical, and the whole package shows exemplary technique. 89 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

Marques de Griñon, Dominio de Valdepusa (Spain) Syrah 2002 ($40, Möet-Hennessy USA): Simpler than its stablemate bottlings of Cabernet or Petite verdot, this is nevertheless delicious, showing classic Syrah notes of dark berries and black cherries with subtle accent notes of spices and woodsmoke. The texture is rounded and soft but still focused and bright, and though you might be able to get more bang elsewhere for your forty bucks, you'll have a hell of a time getting more class. Tannins are marvelously soft and very nicely tuned to the weight of the fruit, making this a very versatile wine that can work well with almost any moderately robust meat dish or even a grilled fish steak. 89 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2006

Bodegas Vinedos de Murcia, Jumilla (Spain) Shiraz/Cabernet/Monastrell "Mad Dogs and Englishmen" 2003 ($10, Click Imports): At least some Spaniards have learned quickly how to market Old World wines to us geographically-challenged New World wines drinkers. They put the seemingly incomprehensible, but of course, essential, geographic material on the back label. The consumer is captured by the far more memorable name, Mad Dogs and Englishmen, followed by the varietal blend, on the front label. This intriguing, big, but not overdone, wine has lots going on in it. Monastrell, the Spanish name for Mourvedre, adds an attractive gamey character. Not just a fruit bomb, the wine delivers exotics earthy flavors. A great value! 93 Michael Apstein Feb 21, 2006

Bodegas Ego, Jumilla (Spain) “Fuerza” 2015 ($15, Tri-Vin Imports):  This shrewdly blended fusion of 75% Monastrell (otherwise known as Mourvèdre or Mataro) and Cabernet Sauvignon has berry and dark plum flavors enlivened by hints of coffee.  Fermented in stainless steel, the wine goes through malolactic fermentation in French and American oak barrels, where it remains for 12 months.  The resulting wine is rich and bold, with bouncy tannins, vivacious acidity and a lot of personality. 
91 Marguerite Thomas Mar 5, 2019

Bermejo, Lanzarote DO (Canary Islands, Spain) Listán Negro “Maceración Carbónica” 2021 ($25, David Bowler Selections):  Wow!  The aromas of ripe plum, pomegranate, blueberries, strawberries and rose petals leap from the glass with an invitation to enjoy this lively, juicy wine.  Bursting with the flavors promised by the aromas with bright acidity and very smooth tannins, it is a very versatile wine.  It is equally at home with the flavors of a holiday dinner, or a burger or picnic.  The grape is Listán Negro, native to the Canary Islands, which is sometimes confused with Listán Prieto, the Mission grape brought to the New World by the Spanish.  This wine’s charming flavors, crisp acidity and smooth as silk tannins are due to the process of carbonic maceration, in which hand-harvested grape clusters are blanketed with carbon dioxide, eliminating oxygen.  In this environment, fermentation begins within the grape until it bursts.  Then skins are separated from the fruit and the remaining or added yeasts continue fermenting the grape sugars to dryness.       
95 Rebecca Murphy Nov 29, 2022

Bodegas Los Bermejos, Lanzarote DO (Canary Islands, Spain) Listán Negro 2018 ($25, David Bowler Wine):  Flavors of juicy black and red cherries mingle with notes of vanilla and a touch of smoke.   It is medium bodied with crisp acidity to balance the luscious fruit and finishes with ripe tannins.  The red grape variety Listán Negro is indigenous to the Canary Islands.  It is sometime confused with Listán Prieto from Castilla-La Mancha. That is the grape the Spanish monks  brought to the New World to plant in the missions they established in Mexico, Texas and California where it was called the Mission grape.     
91 Rebecca Murphy Nov 30, 2021

Comando G, Madrid (Spain) Garnacha "Rozas 1er Cru" 2019 ($75, European Cellars):  Fernando Garcia and Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi founded Comando G a short distance from Madrid in 2008. The pair make ethereal Garnacha wines with surprising elegance.  Their Garnachas can provide the foundation for an excellent cellar as they offer outstanding quality for the price.  The Rozas 1er Cru bursts with flavors of ripe cherries, raspberries, crushed violets, wet stones, and spice.  This has impressive poise and buoyancy — arguably among the best expressions of the variety.       
95 Miranda Franco Oct 18, 2022

Realce, Manchuela (Spain) Bobal Crianza 2003 ($10, Wine Associates, Inc.):  The Bobal grape is capable of producing fine wine if the vines natural proclivity for high yield is kept in check.  The winemaking team must have done that with this wine.  It’s pleasantly rustic with a nicely balanced array of black fruit, spice and herbal notes.  It has remarkably good acidity that keeps it lively, unusual for the vintage, which was notorious for producing ponderous wines throughout Europe. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2010

Tres Patas, Méntrida (Spain) 2005 ($24, Grapes of Spain): Méntrida is a D.O. located in the northeast corner of the province of Toledo, and as this wine indicates conclusively, it can be the source of some very good juice.  It is quite ripe, and the stated alcohol of 14.5% shows that, and yet it is neither pruny nor hot, but rather quite supple and nuanced, with lovely fruit that recalls both red and black cherries and shows (thankfully) very little wood to intrude on the gorgeous fruit.  There's surprising brightness and purity to the wine in light of the rather high alcohol, and it would be a great choice for partnering with late summer grilled meats. 89 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2007

Cellars Uinó, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) Garnacha “Perlat” 2014 ($12, Monsieur Touton): Montsant is sometimes referred to as a “little brother” appellation to its more famous and expensive neighbor, Priorat.  There’s nothing little brother about this wine.  Waves of aromas pour from the glass predicting pleasure on the palate.  It’s wonderfully dense, dark and ripe, yet does not go overboard and finishes with a subtle and paradoxical succulent bitterness.  There’s no flamboyance, yet it’s a robust wine, with an almost tarry element.  For all its power, it’s actually an elegant wine.  What a bargain!
93 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2016

Gil Family Estates, Montsant (Spain) “Can Blau” Red Blend 2020 ($15):  Can Blau is a blend of Syrah, Carignan and Garnacha, also known as Grenache in France.  It was aged 12 months in French oak barrels.  It is a light-bodied wine with a ruby color, delicate spicy, vanilla aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry fruit with crisp acidity and chewy, dusty tannins.  Serve it with roasted or grilled beef that will soften the mouthfeel of the tannins.  At this price you can invite family and friends.  The Montsant wine region, located in Catalonia, which is in northeastern Spain on the Mediterranean coast, wraps around the Priorat wine region in a C-shaped curve.  While the soils in Priorat are "Licorella" slate, Monsant soils are clay.  Vineyard elevations are 656 to 2290 feet.          
90 Rebecca Murphy Jan 23, 2024

Julian Chivite, Navarra (Spain) Rosé Gran Feudo 2005 ($12, Kobrand): This simple-but nevertheless delicious-rosé was made from 100% Garnacha Tinta. It features a single fruit note, but it is a vivid one recalling fresh red cherries, along with the lightest mineral notes, good acidity, and a classy, dry finish. Sensibly priced and well made, this is a winner. 87 Michael Franz Jul 25, 2006

Arínzano, Pago de Arínzano (Spain) “Hacienda de Arínzano” 2011 ($19, Stoli Group USA): The Vinos de Pago category sits at the pinnacle of Spain’s official wine hierarchy.  A Pago is basically a single estate that has its own Denominacion Oregin.  Arínzano was northern Spain’s first estate to be awarded Vinos de Pago status.  Surprisingly, the Hacienda de Arínzano, with all its power and grace, isn’t even the estate’s top wine.  But it’s likely the estate’s top bargain.  A blend of Tempranillo (80%) with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot comprising the remainder, it’s explosive, yet defined.  Though powerful, there’s restraint so it’s not over the top or in your face.  A seductive silky texture makes it easy to enjoy now.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 18, 2017

Arínzano, Pago del Arínzano (Northeastern Spain) “La Casona” 2008 ($30): In the hierarchy of the Spanish classification of wine growing areas, a Pago is at the top.  Pago is a single estate that produces exceptional wines according to the Spanish authorities.  La Casona is their mid-level wine, which seriously over delivers for the price.  A marvelous well-balanced blend of Tempranillo (75%) and Merlot, it is rich without being heavy.  The Merlot adds an attractive earthy funkiness without dominating the wine.  Suave and succulent, it would be a good choice with hefty beef this winter.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2017

Ameztoi, Pais Vasco (Basque Country, Spain) Hondarrabi Beltza “Stimatum” 2022 ($28, De Maison Selections):  Txakolina (chock-oh-LEE-nah) is typically a mildly effervescent white wine with crisp acidity and vibrancy made with the Hondarrabi Zuri grape from Basque country in Spain.  Think of it as Spain’s answer to Portugal’s Vinho Verde.  Many wine lovers flock to Txakoli wines on hot summer days for their fresh style, relatively low alcohol, and crisp acidity.  However, this 2022 Ameztoi "Stimatum" is not that.  This is the much harder-to-find Honarrabi Beltza, a red Txakoli wine bursting with aromas and flavors of pepper, clove, redcurrant, strawberry, and cranberry.  It holds good acidity and a little spritz, giving this a surprisingly full mouthfeel for a wine with just 12 percent alcohol by volume.  Enjoy this during the dog days of summer, and serve it very chilled.       
91 Miranda Franco Aug 8, 2023

Abadal (Bodegas Masies d'Avinyo), Pla de Bages (Spain) "Seleccio" 2000 ($50, Grapes of Spain): This blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah is extremely expressive in aroma, flavor and finish. Notes of dark berries predominate, but are accented with scents and flavors of cocoa, roasted meats, woodsmoke, dried herbs and tobacco leaf. Medium-bodied but deeply flavorful, this will work beautifully with almost any robust meat dish. 91 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Morlanda, Priorat (Spain) Priorat 2001 ($45, Freixenet USA): ): The Morlanda is clearly the best red wine in The Heredad Collection. Priorat wines are primarily made from old-vine Garnacha and Carignan, and the old vines lend an intensity to these wines which is hard to duplicate in other wine regions. The '01 Morlanda, an exciting, concentrated wine, has great acidity and balance, red cherry fruit, and is not overly tannic--a fault of many Priorats. And at $45, it is well-priced for these very expensive wines 92 Ed McCarthy Sep 12, 2005

Pasanau, Priorat (Spain) "La Morera de Montsant" 2001 ($34, Classical Wines): The wines of the Pasanau family, for my palate, are among the finest in the esteemed Priorat region, and they are moderately priced, considering how "hot" Priorat wines are now. The vineyards are high up on the slopes of the Montsant Mountains (2400 feet) and manage to escape the warm Mediterranean influence of Priorat wines made at lower elevations. Soils are mainly decomposed slate with gravelly topsoil, and so Ricard Pasanau has successfully planted Cabernet Sauvignon here, whereas most other Priorat wineries grow mainly Spanish varieties -- old-vine Garnacha, Mazuelo and Carignan. Pasanau's top-of-the-line wine, Finca La Planeta, indeed is 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, with 10 percent Garnacha, and is a beauty at $40. The 2001 La Morera de Montsant, a somewhat more traditional Priorat blend, 62 percent Garnacha and 24 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with the rest mainly Merlot and Syrah, has excellent concentrated berry flavors laced with herbal nuances. Tannins are still firm, and the structure is tight now, but its complex aromas and flavors indicate that it has a great future. Another great selection from the talented Steve Metzler of Classical Wines. 91 Ed McCarthy Jun 13, 2006

Torres, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Salmos” 2009 ($42, Dreyfus Ashby): Salmos vines grow at about 2500 feet above sea level in arid, rocky soil, so perhaps it is this challenging environment that gives the wine so much character. Replete with bright color and dynamic tannins (a legacy of the Cariñena included in the blend) plus considerable elegance (contributed by Syrah), Salmos throbs with perfectly ripe fruit, and it’s intense and concentrated without being heavy.
91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 16, 2013

Genium, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) Ecologic 2003 ($40, Grapes of Spain): This certified organic wine was crafted from 60% Garnacha, 30% Merlot and 10% Cariñena (a.k.a. Carignane). It announces its origins from Priorat immediately with very deep color and exceedingly ripe aromas with cherries in the forefront. Soft in texture but deeply flavorful, it shows lots of sweet, soft fruit, but then displays enough grip in the finish from wood and tannin to indicate that it can hang in with serious food. 90 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Adras, Ribeira Sacra (Spain) Mencia 2013 ($20, Grapes of Spain): A tangy mélange of cherries, ripe fig, and pomegranate distinguish this charming red from Spain.  A tug of both stony minerality and cedary oak contributes to the complexity, and the way the sleek, medium-weight body glides to a mellow finish lightly dusted with tannins is another reason to recommend it.
92 Marguerite Thomas Jan 24, 2017

Ramirez de la Piscina, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2012 ($17, Country Vintner): A gossamer texture floats across the palate delivering hints of cranberry and dried cherry against a reasonably subtle backdrop of smoke and oak.  A brisk, dry finish is another reason to seek out this splendid wine from Spain.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jan 24, 2017

Pujanza, Rioja (Spain) "Daniel" 2003 ($49, Grapes of Spain): This wine shows exceedingly expressive fruit, even allowing for a very hot year that produced particularly ripe fruit. The aromas include intense notes of red raspberries and dried red cherries, along with a nice floral undertone. Intensely fruity, with very subtle oak notes, this is juicy and charming on the surface, with lots of nuanced undertones that will become more prominent with bottle ageing. 90 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Guzmán Aldazabal, Rioja (Spain) 2000 ($27, Grapes of Spain): This wine may not completely impress either Rioja traditionalists or modernists, as it is neither leathery and oxidized nor super-concentrated and spicy. However, it will impress almost anyone who likes balanced, symmetrical wines with fine texture and pure flavors. The lead notes here are cherries and plums, with subtle supporting accents of smoke and tobacco leaf. Soft and sweet, this is a charmer with superb integration that can be sipped with great pleasure or matched with all sorts of foods from grilled fish to light meats. 88 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

La Rioja Alta, Rioja (Spain) 'Vina Alberdi' Reserva 2000 ($19, Europvin): This is an old-fashioned Rioja. Light-bodied, it's marked more by finesse than muscle. The wine's charm, then, comes in subtle nuances, not overt power. It tastes of dried cherries, with an undertone of tobacco, leather, and earth. In this, it bears more than a passing resemblance to a fine red Burgundy--as many good Riojas used to do, but very few new-styled ones do today. 88 Paul Lukacs Jan 24, 2006

Campo Viejo, Rioja (Spain) Tempranillo Crianza 2002 ($10, Allied Domecq): This pretty little wine that is styled very effectively to show the considerable charms of Tempranillo. Light but not at all watery or insubstantial, it features pure red cherry fruit with lightly smoky, spicy accents lent by mercifully subtle oaking. Affordable, fairly widely available, and very easy to understand and enjoy, this is a great ambassador for Spain in smaller American markets and an excellent introduction to the superb performance of contemporary Spanish wines with lighter foods. 87 Michael Franz Oct 11, 2005

Locations, Spain (Spain) “E 4 Red Wine” NV ($19): Dave Phinney's Locations series continues to bring us stellar wines at great prices.  This Spaniard, simply labeled “E” on the front label (for España), and E4 on the back to indicate the fourth edition, shows bright candied raspberry, cherry and pie spice aromas, all translating seamlessly into dry palate flavors, with supple grip and lingering fruit and spice.  It's great now, and can take some bottle aging as well.  A great value!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  Contains Garnacha, Tempranillo, Monastrell and Carignan.
96 Rich Cook May 30, 2017

Doble De Diez, Spain (Spain) Mencia 2018 ($22):  The Mencia grape is grown only in Spain and Portugal although it seems well suited for California’s Mediterranean climate.  This expression of Mencia from Spain is earthy and slightly rustic, showing dark berry notes and an attractive stony minerality.  Beautifully balanced, it delivers a spicy note on the lingering finish.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.    
94 Robert Whitley Jan 28, 2020

Locations, Spain (Spain) "E7" Red Blend NV ($20):  The point of a non-vintage, blended red wine is, put simply, the yum factor.  Winemakers get the satisfaction of blending something pleasurable, and we get the benefit of enjoying their work.  In this case, the work results in a juicy yet structured glass, with juicy red and black berries, moderate spice and a savory finish that keeps the fruit in play.  Go for something in the beef zone when pairing – from grilled burgers to prime rib, this will work.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Monterey International Wine Competition.   
94 Rich Cook Mar 16, 2021

Locations, Spain (Spain) “E 7” NV ($20):  This wine fittingly seems built for paella – popping acidity and full-throttle red fruit will more than handle the spice load from a day at the pan.  (Don’t drink too much of it while stirring – you’ll want some to accompany the finished product.)   Of course, the reasonable price will allow for both.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.       
94 Rich Cook Apr 20, 2021

Locations, Spain (Spain) "E5" Red Wine NV ($20):  The roll that this project is on is remarkable -- so many great wines at such reasonable prices from select lots of fruit that was otherwise homeless is a testament to Dave Phinney’s talent and tenacity.  This version of “E”, a combination of fruit from several regions in Spain, is a plush beauty with raspberry, spice, vanilla and complementary dill and oak toast.  It’s quite dry, and ready for a trip to the tapas bar, where the bright finish will match the variety of foods. 
94 Rich Cook Jun 19, 2018

Padrino Viengracia, Spain () Tempranillo Edicion Limitada 2021 ($43, Firstleaf):  Padrino Viengracia's Tempranillo doesn’t give any clues as to the specific origin within Spain, which is unusual for a wine that’s this good.  This shows the elegant side of what the grape can do, leading with soft violet aromas and following through with layered cherry, blueberry and pepper.  The rounded texture makes this ready to enjoy now, and a little acid pop in the finish will keep you coming back for more.  Nice!        
94 Rich Cook Apr 18, 2023

Locations, Spain (Spain) E5 Red Wine NV ($20):   If there is such a thing as a miracle worker in the wine biz, winemaker Dave Phinney would fit the description.  He continues to amaze with non-vintage red blends that dazzle.  The E5 is sourced from Spain, from multi-vintages of course, and it exhibits remarkable complexity and drinkability.  This one's a blend of Grenache, Tempranillo, Monastrell and Carignan and it is unequivocally mouth-watering and delicious, with a core of ripe black fruit and supple tannins.  The price is beautiful, too.  A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
93 Robert Whitley May 29, 2018

Bodegas Osborne, Spain (Spain) “Seven” NV ($22, Underdog Wine Merchants):  The 3 liter box’s handsome exterior, with a stylish black background embellished by multicolored symbols representing the familiar Osborne bull, sets a tone of cheerful good taste.  What’s inside the package follows through with well-made, very approachable, nuevo vino.   The wine is produced at a high tech Spanish winery from seven different grapes, including Spain’s iconic Tempranillo.  “Seven” opens with a blast of snappy, fresh fruitiness then rolls forward on a wave of supremely malleable tannins that wrap around the palate like a screed of soft cloth.  The finish is clean and unfussy. 88 Marguerite Thomas Aug 17, 2010

Martin Codax, Spain (Spain) Red Blend "Ergo Rojo" 2018 ($14):  This juicy, eminently drinkable Spanish red offers up bright red fruit tones suggesting that Garnacha and Tempranillo might be prominent players in the blend, but this isn't a wine to ponder so much as one to just enjoy for its open fruit notes (red and black cherries, predominantly) and soft structure.  There's enough tannic grip to enable this to stand up to moderately robust foods, but not so much as to preclude enjoying this as a stand-alone sipper. 
88 Michael Franz Mar 10, 2020

Envinate, Tenerife (Canary Islands, Spain) Tinto "Taganan" 2020 ($55, José Pastor Selections):  Envínate is the brainchild of Laura Ramos, Jose Martínez, Roberto Santana, and Alfonso Torrente, four friends who met while studying enology at the University of Miguel Hernández in Alicante.  They share a passion for organic farming and the sea-influenced wine-growing regions of Spain, where they produce wines from different zones in Tenerife; here, their 2020 Tinto Táganan is made on the northeastern side of Taganan.  The 2020 is made from many different red grape varieties native to the Canary Islands, some unidentified, but include Listan Negro, Listan Gaucho, Malvasia Negro.  If you like juicy, aromatic, and smoky reds, this delightful wine that showcases the unique terroir of the Canary Islands is totally for you.  The nose offers the textbook aromas of dried petals and freshly cracked peppercorns.  On the palate, it's vibrant, fresh, and expressive, with fine tannins and layers upon layers of spice, smoky minerals, and fresh red fruit.  This highly sought-after wine is only made in tiny quantities, so grab it while you can!          
95 Miranda Franco Feb 21, 2023

Suertes Del Marqués, Tenerife (Canary Islands, Spain) Listán Negro “Medianías” 2020 ($35, Free Run Wine Merchants):  Suertes Del Marqués is producing some of Spain’s most sought-after wines on the largest of the Canary Islands, Tenerife.  The winery currently makes three levels of wine.  The village wines — which include this 2020 Medianías Listán Negro — come from a variety of different vineyards around the island.  The Medianías has an exceedingly lively nose and palate with aromas and flavors of juicy cherry, raspberry bramble, and cranberry with an undertone of cured meat and allspice.  It is medium-bodied, with firm tannins and brisk acidity driving the long finish.  This type of wine makes sense to drink with a chill alongside a rich, savory meal.       
93 Miranda Franco Nov 21, 2023

Bodegas Vinos Pinol, Terra Alta (Spain) "Ludovicus Red " 2005 ($10, Ole Imports):

Spain is leading the way in providing distinctive wines at bargain prices.  This blend of Garnacha (aka Grenache), Tempranillo, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon provides plenty of fruit flavors without losing its sense of balance.  Supple and spicy, it has more to it than you'd expect from the price.

Osborne, Tierra de Castilla (Spain) Shiraz Tempranillo "Solaz" 2004 ($9, W.J. Deutsch & Sons): This is an inviting value-red with a deep purple-ruby color, forward dark black plum, cedar and white pepper aroma, that carry into the medium juicy flavors, supported by firm tannins, good acidity and juicy fruit. The unusual blend is fifty-fifty and the wine was aged for four months in American oak; just long enough to give it a kiss of oak, but still allow the fresh fruit to shine through. Here is a very good wine with grilled red meats and vegetables. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 5, 2006

Elias Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2014 ($19, Grapes of Spain): A soft landing followed by a burst of flavor -- not big or heavy in any way, but focused and gratifying -- lets you know right away that you’re in for a truly enjoyable wine experience with this offering from Elias Mora.  It is a Spanish wine that is both traditional in its uncompromised freshness, yet is also highly sophisticated, especially in its substantial depth of flavor.  Another plus:  The memory lingers on in the generous finish.
92 Marguerite Thomas Jan 24, 2017

San Roman, Toro (Castille, Spain) 2003 ($55, Grapes of Spain): This powerhouse wine features a combination of ultra-dense, supremely intense fruit recalling cassis and blackberries along with lots and lots of spicy oak. When first opened, it seems overly tannic and woody, but over the course of an hour, you'll find that the fruit unwinds to reveal enough softness to envelop the tannins and counterbalance the wood. If you can keep your hands off this for five years, you'll get a much more civilized wine, but if you want to experience it now, grill a big steak and buckle up those seatbelts. 91 Michael Franz Oct 3, 2006

Baron Dago, Utiel-Requena DOP (Spain) Reserva 2017 ($20, Hemispheres Global Wines):  A bright spiced plum nose will remind you of your grandmother’s canning ritual of late summer into fall and entice you into a sip, where lively black pepper joins the proceedings.  Bobal is the lead grape here, and it’s working!   A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.    
94 Rich Cook Oct 5, 2021

Telmo Rodriguez, Valdeorras (Spain) Mencia "Gaba do Xil" 2010 ($18):  Valdeorras, the valley of gold, named because the Romans discovered the metal there, is nestled in the northwestern part of Spain.  The Mencia grape, usually associated with Bierzo, the adjacent DO, also does well in the region.  The beauty of wine made from Mencia, like this one, is the earthy, savory (non-fruit) nuances it delivers along with the charming combination of red fruit flavors.  Round tannins allow for current consumption, while bright acidity means you don’t tire of it during a meal.  It’s another good choice as the grilling season gets underway.
90 Michael Apstein May 1, 2012

Monje, Vino de Calidad de las Islas Canarias DOP (Canary Islands, Spain) "La Hollera" 2018 ($25, David Bowler Selections):  La Hollera is the name of the area where Bodegas Monje is located on the north side of the Island of Tenerife, the largest of the seven islands that make up the Canary Islands.  The wine is made from the indigenous variety Listan Negro.  It goes through carbonic maceration, the fermentation process most commonly associated with Beaujolais.  The wine has a bright purple color with notes of ruby red and aromas of fresh berries, black and red.  It offers loads of flavors of bright, fresh black cherry, blackberry fruit in the mouth balanced with crisp acidity and light, smooth tannins.  It is a very pleasing wine to enjoy at a picnic or with a grilled salmon steak.        
90 Rebecca Murphy Sep 28, 2021

Monje, Vino de Calidad de las Islas Canarias DOP (Canary Islands, Spain) Tradicional 2018 ($22, David Bowler Selections):  This eminently drinkable wine from the Canary Islands is a traditional Island blend starting with 85 percent Listan Negro, indigenous to the Canary Islands.  Listan Blanco, also known as Palamino, at 10 percent of the wine adds bright freshness and fixes the red color as in the Rhône Valley where they ferment Syrah with a touch of Viognier.  Rounding out the blend is five percent of Negromoll, native to Andalucia (Wine Grapes, Robinson, et al, page 709).  It was fermented in stainless steel and spent four months in old oak barrels.  It boasts a dark ruby color and aromas of black cherry with a touch of red currant.  With almost three years in the bottle, it is sea-breeze fresh, with juicy, but lean black cherry fruit laced saline notes.  Smooth tannins balance the juicy fruit.  Serve it with a juicy burger.      
89 Rebecca Murphy Sep 28, 2021

Xiloca, Vino de la Tierra Ribera del Jiloca (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha 2009 ($11, Classical Wines):  Although this wine rings up at $11, it was a clear favorite over three wines made from Zinfandel and Syrah (all priced more than three times higher) when paired with a lightly spicy Mexican casserole.  You might think that was an anomaly produced by the pairing, but when tasted again later by itself and again with simple aged cheese, it once again showed extraordinary quality in relation to its price.  Packed with fruit recalling black as well as red cherries, it is nevertheless not just a fruit bomb, and you’ll find appealing savory notes and a pleasant hint of earthiness that make this enduringly interesting to taste. 89 Michael Franz Oct 26, 2010

El Miracle, Vinos Alicante DO (Spain) 2014 ($35, Vicente Gandia): An interesting blend of Monastrell, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot and Tempranillo that delivers aromas of raspberry, kirsch and peppered red meat that translate well on the palate, with supple grip and a complex finish.  I'm not familiar with the region, but you can bet I'll be looking into it after this tasty glass.  Perfect for your favorite lamb preparations.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Monterey International Wine Competition.
95 Rich Cook Mar 7, 2017

Comando G, Vinos de Madrid (Spain) Garnacha “Las Umbrias” 2019 ($130, European Cellars):  Inspired by the iconic 100 percent Grenache of Chatenautef-du Pape's Chateau Rayas, Daniel Landi and Fernando García created the Comando G label in 2008.  The duo work with several small, isolated plots perched high up in the mountainous Sierra de Gredos to show how distinctive the wines can be from an area that was ignored for far too long.  Las Umbrías is their single vineyard wine from primarily granite soils that shows the most delicate and floral character of any of the parcel wines of Comando G.  Like the other Comando G wines, the 2019 Umbrias is remarkably pale in color but with robust aromas and subtle red fruit flavors that are skillfully balanced by fine tannin and mineral acidity.  Comando G is awakening Spain’s wine industry, and their Garnacha is one of its finest forms of the variety.       
96 Miranda Franco Mar 7, 2023

Comando G, Vinos de Madrid (Spain) Garnacha “1er Cru Rozas” 2018 ($59, European Cellars):  I keep returning to this producer, Comando G, as so few producers can craft such finesse from Garnacha.  The Rozas 1er Cru comes from several plots of Garnacha near the town of Rozas de Puerto Real.  It is ridiculously fragrant, redolent of crushed violets and black cherry with a hint of candied strawberry.  While there is no shortage of fruit notes, this wine has a distinct rocklike backbone.  That palate offers mouthwatering acidity, a silky texture, and supple tannins.  The Rozas 1er Cru delivers outstanding quality for its price.  I would happily pick up any vintage I could find.        
95 Miranda Franco Jan 9, 2024

Comando G, Vinos de Madrid (Spain) Garnacha “La Bruja de Rozas” 2019 ($35, European Cellars):  Founded in 2008 by Daniel Jimenez-Landi and Fernando Garcia, Comando G highlights the unique and rugged growing sites of mountainous central Spain.  Inspired by the iconic 100 percent Grenache of Chatenautef-du Pape's Cateau Rayas, the young vintners make a small production of soft yet powerful wines.  La Bruja de Rozas (The Witch of Rozas) is sourced from several vineyards in the vicinity of Las Rozas de Puerto Real.  The La Bruja is extraordinarily aromatic and intensely flavorful with notes of crushed violets, basil, and black pepper that meet a core of densely layered red and black fruits.  The wine is bright and lifted, and among the best expressions of the variety I have tasted.            
93 Miranda Franco Apr 13, 2021

Las Moradas de San Martin, Vinos de Madrid DO (Spain) Garnacha “Initio” 2011 ($25):  First, please note that this decade-old wine is the current release.  Secondly, if you read the label and note its 15 percent stated-alcohol, you might be put off.  Don’t be.  I can’t explain it, but Garnacha can carry that level of alcohol beautifully, as this wine shows.  Sure, it’s a big winter time wine, but it delivers spice and a panoply of fruit flavors in a balanced package.  Despite its age, the tannins are still a little coarse, but you will not notice them this winter when there is a slice of leg of lamb on your plate.             
91 Michael Apstein Oct 12, 2021

Envinate, Ycoden Daute Isora DO (Canary Islands, Spain) “Benje” Tinto 2020 ($35, José Pastor Selections):  Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez are four friends who started making wine together after graduating from the University of Miguel Hernandez.  Their winemaking process identifies key vineyard plots with attributes that enable a sustainable and natural winemaking style that can make high quality wines.  Benje’s fruit is sourced from high elevation plots from the northwest of Tenefre, the largest island in the Canary Island chain.  The volcanic soils are known to impose strong sulfur notes into Canary Island wines but Benje counterbalances that with unique canned cranberry, flint, and pencil shaving notes.  The wine style is both nuanced and attention grabbing.  Made from predominantly Mission grapes, Benje is lighter in body but has a nicely balanced structure.  This is a bottle to share with your nerdy wine friends.  Pair Benje with light charcuterie and potato chips.   
91 Vince Simmon Nov 28, 2023

Castano, Yecla (Spain) "Solanera" 2003 ($14, Eric Solomon Selections): Yecla, a small DO (Denominación de Origen or DO is comparable to France's Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, or AOC) on Spain's southeastern coast is well suited for the Monastrell grape (aka Mourvèdre) because it needs the Mediterranean sun to ripen.  Castano blends Monastrell from old vines with Cabernet Sauvignon to produce a dense, earthy wine.  The old vines provide fruit that lends complexity and length to this wine. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006

La Purisima, Yecla (Spain) Monastrell “Trapio” 2005 ($29): La Purisima is a large Spanish company, but it produces only a small amount (100 or so cases) of this delightful red wine made of 100% Monastrell (Monastrell is France's Mourvèdre).  Ripe and concentrated, yet nicely balanced, it has flavors that bring to mind red fruits and a hint of licorice. 89 Marguerite Thomas Sep 4, 2007

Valle de Salinas, Yecla (Spain) 2005 ($11, Weygandt-Metzler):

A blend of 60% Mourvedre (or Monastrell in Spain), 20% Syrah, and 20% Tempranillo, this wine comes from vineyards in southeastern Spain.  Its warm, sunny character certainly reflects that origin.  Marked by bright fruit, it gains interest because of it also exhibits leathery secondary flavors and an impressively long finish.

Castano, Yecla (Spain) Monastrell Tinto 2004 ($7, Eric Solomon Selections/European Cellars): Yecla, a small area on Spain's southeastern coast surrounding the town of the same name, is well suited for the Monastrell grape (a.k.a. Mourvèdre in France or Mataro in Australia) because it needs the warmth of the Mediterranean sun to ripen.  Castona's Monastrell Tinto (they also make a Monastrell rosé) is a fantastic bargain.  Its spicy, slightly rustic edge makes it a good match for simple robust fare. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007

Rosé:

Yellow + Blue, Alicante (Spain) Rosè 2009 ($13, J. Soif Inc.):  This organic pink wine, packaged in a 1 liter carton has a deep watermelon color along with an aroma of sweet strawberries. It’s intensely fruity, with strawberry jam flavors, yet it’s pleasantly dry. 88 Tina Caputo Oct 4, 2011

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Spain) Rosé 2013 ($14): A Rosé wine's first obligation is to be fresh. This beauty from Spain, made from Garnacha, is a beautiful example of top-notch rose that delivers mouth-watering aromas of strawberry and raspberry, freshness on the palate, and a long, lingering finish that invites another sip. 90 Robert Whitley Jul 22, 2014

Altovinum, Calatayud (Ebro Valley, Spain) “Evodia” Rosé 2009 ($9, Eric Solomon Selections):  Regular WRO readers know that I fail to embrace the Rosé craze, almost always preferring a chilled light red wine (see this week’s review of Celler Espelt’s Garnatxa).  Well, here’s an exception.  This Rosé, made entirely from Garnacha, has real character and alluring nuances of wild strawberry-like flavors.  Bright acidity keeps it lively.  This one, like all rosé, should be consumed when young so search for the most recent vintage.  Tasted side-by-side with the 2008, the 2009 had far more appealing freshness and zest. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010

Viña Alarba, Calatayud (Spain) Rosado 2004 ($8, Jorge Ordoñez/Henry Wine Group): Generously flavored if just a bit chunky, this wine offers lots of juicy fruit flavors that will stand up nicely to grilled fish or white meat dishes 86 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2005

Hacienda de Arínzano, D.O. Pago di Arínzano (Spain) Rosé 2015 ($19): The deeply blush-colored wine is from the first winery in Northeast Spain to receive the prestigious Pago designation due to its unique landscape and climate.  This rosé is made from 100% Tempranillo and offers intense aromas of strawberry, pink grapefruit and white pepper laced with a hint of rose petal.  An excellent wine for a juicy grilled burger.
93 Jessica Dupuy Apr 12, 2016

Gaintza, Getariako Txakolina (Basque Country, Spain) “Roses” 2021 ($28, Ole & Obrigado):  Andrés Lazkano founded his family estate in 1923 in Spain’s Basque region of Getariako.  It is the home of a unique, refreshing, lightly sparkling, dry wine white or rosé wine called Txakolina ("chac-ah-lean-ah").  This wine is a blend of the region’s traditional grape varieties, white Hondarrabi Zuri, and red Hondarrabi Beltza.  It is a lean, crisp wine with a light golden pink color and fresh aromas and flavors  of pear and tropical fruits, with a touch of fresh ginger and a lightly spritzy finish.  Enjoy it as an aperitif, or with grilled fresh seafood.           
93 Rebecca Murphy Jun 11, 2024

Bermejo, Lanzarote DO (Canary Islands, Spain) Listán Negro Rosado 2021 ($28, David Bowler Selections):  This time last year, I wrote a column about what I learned from a visit to the Canary Island of Lanzarote.  The first thing was that the phylloxera root louse that almost succeeded in destroying the vineyards of Europe never made it to the Canary Islands, so the grapes grow on their own roots instead of being grafted onto phylloxera resistant root stock.  The island is covered with black lava due to volcanic eruptions from 1730 to 1736, which gives the island a moonscape appearance.  There is no natural source of water, so viticulture must rely on desalination.  Yet, these conditions produce incredibly distinctive and delicious wines, the like of which cannot be found elsewhere.  Take, for example, this Rosé made of the native Listán Negro grape, which we served at Thanksgiving.  Boasting a bright, eye catching, neon orange color, it was a hit.  Light bodied and dry with flavors of cherries, strawberries and orange zest fruit tempered with crisp acidity and saline notes, it was a delicious aperitif and prefect for the mélange of flavors at the holiday dinner.       
93 Rebecca Murphy Nov 29, 2022

Realce, Manchuela (Spain) Bobal Rosé 2009 ($8, Wine Associates, Inc.):  The Bobal grape is indigenous to Manchuela, a newly created DO in southeastern Spain that was formerly part of La Mancha.  Both the grape and the region had been known for producing bulk wine, but recently producers having been aiming higher.  And they’ve hit the target with this marvelous well-priced rosé.  Perfectly dry, with hints of wild strawberries and spice, it is a refreshing accompaniment to Mediterranean cuisine or to sip on its own.  It has far more character than most rosés, so I would stock up on it now for summer.  A terrific bargain. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2010

Vega Sindoa, Navarra (Spain) Rosado 2004 ($8, Jorge Ordoñez/Henry Wine Group): Made from equal portions of Garnacha and Cabernet, this is a lovely wine with real guts and depth (presumably from the Cabernet component) but also a fresh, frivolously fun side (presumably from the Garnacha). Notes of plums and cherries predominate, and though this packs a bit more punch than most rosés, it has excellent acidity and a very fresh, crisp finish. 87 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2005

1 + 1 = 3, Penedes (Spain) Rosado 2004 ($14, Grapes of Spain): Uncommonly dark in color and deep in flavor, this wine clearly results from a longer maceration than is typical, and yet it functions very nicely indeed, with nice fresh aromas and juicy, lengthy flavor notes of strawberries and red cherries. This is a great choice for dishes that call for a full-flavored rosé or even a light red. 87 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2005

Torres, Penedes (Spain) Rosado "De Casta" 2004 ($9, Dreyfus Ashby): This bottle sports one of the first screw caps that I've ever seen on a wine from Spain, suggesting that yet another bastion of closure conservatism may be giving way. The contents of the wine are every bit as worthy of remark as the closure, with lots of red fruit flavor that tails off into a classy, nearly dry finish. 87 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2005

Bodegas Valdemar, Rioja (Spain) Rosado "Essencia Valdemar" 2004 ($10, CIV USA): Crafted from 100% Garnacha from estate vineyards in Logroño, this is impeccably dry but nevertheless amply flavored. Very well crafted, it shows pale strawberry color, subtle aromas, and restrained fruit flavors that are poised precisely on the line separating juiciness from austerity. Superb balance will allow this to pair nicely with a vast array of foods. 88 Michael Franz Aug 9, 2005

Elyssia, Spain (Spain) Pinot Noir Brut Cava NV ($18): Elyssia is but one slice of the vast Freixenet sparkling wine empire (Frexienet is the largest producer of sparkling wine in the world) but it’s a delicious slice as those things go. The Pinot brut is a refreshing rose bubbly that offers subtle strawberry notes and a long, pleasing finish, which is the most crucial aspect of any bubbly. Cava is on the rise of late, both in quality as well as availability, and Elyssia is a good example of quality cava at its inexpensive best. Wonderful as an aperitif, but a good match with roasted turkey or small game birds. Perfect for the holidays.
88 Robert Whitley Oct 16, 2012

Monje, Vino de Calidad de las Islas Canarias DOP (Canary Islands, Spain) "Bibiana" 2018 ($23, David Bowler Selections):  Bibiana is the name of Filipe Monje’s daughter.  A couple of years after she was born, he decided to make a Rosé wine.  While this decision was not related to her arrival, his experience making his first Rosé from the native Listan Negro grape brought back memories of first-time fatherhood.  He was awake all night anxious to get just the right color and balance.  His anxiety is our reward with this lovely Rosé.  Even with three years in the bottle it is fresh and lively with a bright light red color and fresh berry, red currant aromas with saline notes.  In the mouth red fruits of cherry and currant enhanced with notes of fresh orange zest are balanced with crisp acidity.  Serve it with grilled shrimp or a seafood salad.          
90 Rebecca Murphy Sep 28, 2021

Viña Salamanca, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon (Spain) Rosado Rufete 2004 ($8, Billington): Fresh and fruity but also dry and very versatile, this shows light ruby color and delicious fruit that recalls fresh red cherries and strawberries. 87 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2005

Casa Solar, Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla (Spain) Tempranillo Rosado 2004 ($6, CIV USA): This is a very interesting wine at an eye-poppingly low price. With assertive black cherry fruit and even a bit of tannin, this is much more robust than most rosés, and a slightly earthy finish accentuates this impression 86 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2005

Sparkling:

Anna de Codorníu, Catalonia (Spain) Cava Brut Rosé NV ($14): The only thing more fun than pink wine is pink with with bubbles. Especially this elegant Brut Rosé from Codorníu.  Notes of crushed red berries intermingle with underlying minerality and a delicate mid-palate with crisp, fresh powdery berry flavors on to the finish.  An excellent aperitif for the patio.
92 Jessica Dupuy Apr 12, 2016

Painous, Catalonia (Spain) Cava Brut Reserva NV ($13, Kysela Pere et Fils): Unlike the vast majority of Spanish Cavas, which have flavors that resemble cardboard or hay, this wine is seductively toasty, with well-defined fruit that echoes apples as well as citrus.  Though labeled “brut,” it carries a hint of sweetness in the finish, something that makes it especially inviting to sip.
89 Paul Lukacs Feb 18, 2014

Recaredo, Cava (Spain) Brut Nature "Terrers" 2018 ($40, Rosenthal Wine Merchant):  Recaredo is one of the leading producers of Cava, now under the collective brand Corpinnat (in the past, in the Cava D.O.).  All their sparkling wines are all Brut Nature and aged with natural cork stoppers, and each bottle is manually disgorged.  Recaredo’s flagship Cava, “Terrers” is a blend of 65 % Xarel-lo, 18 % Macabeu and 17 % Parellada.  Five solid years on the lees infuse the wine with extravagant depth, yet no excessive yeastiness can be found.  This is bone dry with penetrating minerality, showcasing the signature style of Recaredo.  Its aromatic complexity and freshness are remarkable, with notes of ripe white fruit and citrus peel, along with delicate flavors of toasted baguette and aromatic herbs.       
93 Miranda Franco Nov 29, 2022

Juve y Camps, Cava (Spain) Gran Reserva "Gran Juvé" 2015 ($65, Winebow):  The Gran Juvé 2015 Cava is only made in exceptional years from the finest plots of grapes.  This blend of Chardonnay, Xarel-lo, Macabeo, and Parellada was aged on the lees in bottle for 42 months before disgorgement.  The palate is rich with notes of ripe, soft nectarine, white cherry, citrus peel, and hints of soft buttery brioche, honey, and sea salt.  It holds a consistent effervescence of bubbles, balanced acidity, and a persistent and glorious finish that returns to the fruit flavors.        
92 Miranda Franco Nov 29, 2022

Marqués de Caceres, Cava (Spain) Brut NV ($15, Vineyard Brands):  This is a relatively new Cava in the USA from the very large Rioja house of the same name, and is comprised of 50% Xarel-lo, 30% Macabeo, and 20% Parellada.  It is attractive both in packaging and price, but even more in terms of flavor and character, with more open fruit than the overwhelming majority of Cava Bruts in its price range, and much less of the wet straw undertone that can put some consumers off on the whole category.  The effervescence is both abundant and fine in texture, with juicy fruit notes edged with citrus acidity.  There’s actually so much ripe fruit in this Cava that many tasters will look twice to see if it is really designated as Brut, but hey, when the everyday sparkling market is increasingly dominated by flowery, vaguely sweet Prosecco, open fruit with ripe flavors is likely a prerequisite for survival.  A standout for value.         
92 Michael Franz Feb 7, 2023

Avinyó, Cava (Spain) Brut Reserva 2019 ($20, De Maison Selections):  This blend of Macabeo 60%, Xarel-lo 25%, Parellada 15 % is an appealing mix of complexity with mouthwatering minerality.  It has a yellow-gold core, with a gently invigorating mousse and ripe aromas of green apple, pear, salted lemon, raw pastry dough, chopped nuts, anise, and wet stones.  There is lots of purity of fruit and a pleasing palate-coating texture, and it thrills with freshness.  This could easily be mistaken for high-end Champagne.      
91 Miranda Franco Nov 29, 2022

Juvé y Camps, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) Blanc de Noirs Brut Reserva 2010 ($31, Winebow): Bubbly lovers seeking a change of pace should seek out the Juvé y Camps Blanc de Noirs Reserva.  The 2010 rendition is a lovely sparkling wine (based on 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Xarel-lo) with just a hint of red to the color.  Cherry and berry fruits at the nose are enhanced by hints of lemon, honey and the yeasty complexity that the Cava production method provides.  The flavors are lively, clean and dry with the juicy cherry and raspberry fruit tones underlain by elements of lemon and fresh-bread yeastiness.  The Juvé y Camps bottling sets a high standard that other Cava producers should strive to equal.
91 Wayne Belding Dec 30, 2014

Marques de Caceres, Cava (Spain) Brut NV ($13, Vineyard Brands):   This is a fresh, delicious Cava that sings with mixed citrus and a subtle toastiness that would lead you to believe the price must be a mistake.  Tangerine comes forward in the finish and leaves your mouth watering for more.  A solid aperitif, or a pair for any festive appetizers. 
91 Rich Cook Dec 24, 2019

Bohigas, Cava (Spain) “Rosat” NV ($13, Polaner Selections):  It can be difficult to find a wine to accompany Vietnamese, indeed most Asian fare, with its plethora of flavors.  This Rosé Cava worked splendidly with the stellar food at the Hanoi House in New York.  It was gentle enough to work as a celebratory pre-dinner drink and firm enough to cut through the spice and lemongrass.  The spine of acidity makes it a fine choice even with something like barbequed pork.  It’s good to remember the “wine” in “sparkling wine” because they can be perfect throughout a meal. 
90 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018

Fermi Bohigas, Cava (Spain) “Rossinyol de Moragas” NV ($14, Tradewinds): An exceptionally sophisticated Brut Cava, this Spanish sparkler is very aromatic, nicely fruity, a little yeasty, and extremely appealing. It is appropriately dry without being tart or acerbic.  Having gone through the process of a slow second fermentation in the bottle, its bubbles are relatively small and delicate.  Rossinyol is the Catalan word for “nightingale,” which I assume is a reference to wine’s engaging lightness and delicacy.
90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 4, 2014

Mont-Ferrant, Cava (Spain) Brut Reserva 2010 ($15, Maritime Wine Trading Collective): With its light, dainty bubbles and crisp, clear, clean flavors this is a fine fizz not just for celebration, but also for everyday life.  Enjoyable with almost any appetizer as well as light supper menus, it is a particularly versatile Cava.  People have been savoring this producer’s sparkling wines for a very long time: Mont-Ferrant was established in 1865.
90 Marguerite Thomas Sep 29, 2015

Pata Negra, Cava (Spain) Rosé Brut NV ($15, CIV USA): Here is a light, fun sparkler made predominantly from the obscure Catalan grape Trepat.  It's very refreshing, with flavors of cherry, strawberry, lemon zest and a touch of brioche, along with a cleansing, mouth-watering finish that keeps you coming back.  1% residual sugar serves to brighten the palate without coming off as sweet.  Put that together with a festive package and a nice price, and you've got a winner that will get you through the summer and into fall.  Contains 20% Pinot Noir. 90 Rich Cook Aug 5, 2014

Segura Viudas, Cava (Spain) Brut NV ($11, Freixenet Mionetto USA):  I love this wine for its fragrance and flavors, though I wouldn’t claim that it is a “great wine."  This is a Freixenet company bottling, and through the years I have loved the dried geranium leaf fragrances that some of their wines exhibit, as does this one.  Additionally, it has some of the fruit-based oiliness that we normally see if German Rieslings which pleasantly balances the herbal notes.  On the negative side, the bubbles dissipate too quickly, and it could use more closing acidity.  Nevertheless, I am happy to drink it as a table wine for $11 a bottle.       
89 Roger Morris Sep 12, 2023

Avaline, Cava (Spain) Rosé Extra Brut NV ($35):  Avaline is a fairly new celebrity brand with actor Cameron Diaz being the chief celebrity.  The wine’s packaging and online marketing is smooth and impressive.  The wines I’ve tasted so far seem to be works in progress.  With this bubbly, I like the dollop of creamy, ripe strawberry fruit, but there is not much there in terms of complexity, length or depth – medium body, and it fades too quickly from the palate.        
88 Roger Morris Feb 13, 2024

Segura Viudas, Cava (Spain) Brut Rose NV ($10):  As we head into the summer months demand for rose, particularly bubbly rose, is on the rise and this one, at this price, is a sizzling value if ever there was. Know, too, that Spanish Cava is an ever improving category and most are more complex and flavorful than Cavas made even 10 years ago. 88 Robert Whitley May 29, 2012

Marques de Caceres, Cava (Spain) Brut NV ($13, Vineyard Brands):   This Brut Cava from Marques de Caceres is clean and refreshing, with notes of citrus and a touch of brioche.  For the money this is a sure crowd-pleaser over the holiday season.    
87 Robert Whitley Dec 10, 2019

Los Dos, Cava DO (Spain) Brut NV ($13, Winebow):  It seems that every time I get to taste a Cava, I wonder why it hasn’t taken off in the same way that Prosecco has over the last few years.  I almost always find it more pleasant to drink, with its tendency to focus more on dry, mineral driven expressions.  This bottle delivers the goods with a delicate but persistent nose of white flowers, apple and pear, and the creamy palate delivers subdued apple and soft lemon notes over a core of stony minerality.  It finishes crisp and clean with no bitterness – just refreshment and fun here.  For thirteen bucks, it’s a find!               
90 Rich Cook Jan 4, 2022

Campo Viejo, Cava DO (Spain) Brut Reserva NV ($13): A bright, zesty, scouring Cava that's all about the citrus zest, with both lemon and lime riding nicely together.  A great aperitif style to get the evening started, and at a value price.
88 Rich Cook Jan 10, 2017

Juvé & Camps, Cava Gran Reserva (Spain) "Reserva de la Familia" 2018 ($23):  Juvé & Camps Cava Grand Reserva de la Familia is a pleasant sparkling wine with some obvious age in the bubbles, mainly coming from cask notes, but it retains a nice vibrancy with both apple and neutral fruit flavors.  While a good sipping wine, the aged flavors do make it very eligible for table wine service.    
90 Roger Morris Jun 18, 2024

Raventós i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia (Penedes, Spain) “De Nit” Sparkling Rosé 2021 ($25):  Raventós i Blanc, one of Spain’s leading producers of sparkling wines, left the Cava consortium because they felt the standards were too low.  So, instead of bottling their excellent sparkling wines as Cava, they label them Conca del Riu Anoia.  The wines remain consistently excellent.  Take the bright and subtlety fruity rosé, the 2021 de Nit.  It marries a hint of fresh strawberry-like fruit with a distinct and welcome mineral component, all supported by a firm spine of acidity.  Great for a celebration, of course, it also has plenty of structure and oomph to stand up to spicy food.     
91 Michael Apstein Jan 30, 2024

Artadi, Getariako Txakolina (Pais Vasco, Spain) Hondarrabi Zuri “Izar-Leku Mahastiak” 2017 ($35, Artadi USA Importers):  Artadi was founded in 1985 by Juan-Carlos López de Lacalle.  In 2015 Juan-Carlos pulled Artadi out of the Rioja DO (for multiple reasons) and decided to forge his own path.  That same year he started the Izar-Leku Mahastiak project, which brought together the cider producer Zapiain & López de Lacalle families.  The result is a traditional method sparkling wine, blended from 90% Hondarrabi Zuri and 10% Hondarrabi Beltza.  It is packed with aromatic complexity and distinct saline minerality.  With aromas of green apple typical of a Txakoli wine, it shows complex notes of brioche, fresh citrus, ripe pear, and plum, with lively bubbles.  This is the perfect pairing for shellfish.      
94 Miranda Franco Apr 4, 2023

White:

Marques de Alella, Alella DO (Spain) Pansa Blanca 2013 ($15): Pansa Blanca, otherwise known as Xarel-o and frequently used as a blending grape in Spanish cava, makes a delicious and interesting white. On the palate it displays an oily texture backed by firm acidity, with fruit notes of mandarin orange, pear and honey. It is utterly delicious.   Platinum award winner at the 2015 San Diego International Wine Competition.  
94 Robert Whitley Jan 20, 2015

Bodega Santa Cruz de Alpera, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Verdejo “Santa Cruz de Alpera” NV ($12, Votto Vines):  This snappy wine has more ripeness than Verdejo from Rueda because of the warmer clime in Almansa. But that doesn’t stop it from being energetic and lively. Its freshness persists into the finish and amplifies its verve. It’s perfect with shellfish or simple broiled fish. It’s hard to find this kind of enjoyment at this price.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2013

Xarmant, Arabko Txakolina (Spain) Txakolina 2009 ($17, De Maison Selections): This tongue-twister of a wine is palate-bracing as well.  Bone dry, with nervy acidity and a long, mineral-laden finish, it hails from the Basque country of northern Spain, and tastes wonderfully vibrant.  I wouldn’t think that it will get any better with bottle age, but it should provide truly refreshing sipping this summer. 90 Paul Lukacs May 4, 2010

Itsas Mendi, Bizkaiko Txakolina (Spain) Hondarrabi Zuri 2005 ($23, Winebow): Here's a wine you've probably never heard of (I certainly hadn't).  It hails from the Basque region in the Pyrenees foothills, and is made with a local grape with the unlikely name of Hondarrabi Zuri.  Light and lemony, it tastes wonderfully fresh and vibrant, and almost cries out to be paired with shellfish or other fresh, light seafood (sautéed sole, for example, or rainbow trout).  Perhaps if you travel to northern Spain you'll find others equally as good, but for those of us stuck here in the frigid American east coast, this Hondarrabi Zuri from Itsas Mendi (there's a mouthful) is a very exciting discovery. 90 Paul Lukacs Feb 13, 2007

Envínate, Canary Islands (Spain) “Palo Blanco” 2021 ($50, José Pastor Selections):  From the first whiff, Envínate's 2021 Palo Blanco is an exceedingly intriguing wine.  A medley of funky, salty, citrusy notes wafts from the glass as the wine is poured.  Upon first sip, the taster is greeted with a torrent of fresh acidity, brought about by the altitude of the grape growing and prevention of malolactic fermentation.  Behind that refreshing citrus acidity is a collection of spice, fruit, and earth.  This wine is deeply complex and kept me coming back for more, as I tried in vain to nail down various and layered flavors found within.      
92 John McDermott May 21, 2024

Envínate, Canary Islands (Spain) “Palo Blanco” 2020 ($57, José Pastor Selections):  Envínate (Wine Yourself), a group of four friends, makes outstanding wines from different parts of Spain, focusing on the Canary Islands.  This 2020 Palo Blanco is made of 100 percent Lístan Blanco, better known as Palomino, grown in an ancient vineyard high up on Tenerife in the Canaries.  It offers enticing aromas of tropical fruit underscored by delicate floral notes and a hint of distinctive minerality.  The wine is high-toned on the palate with refreshing acidity and zesty lemon and grapefruit notes, mingled with hints of ripe pear and green apple, adding complexity and depth to the lingering saltwater finish.          
92 Miranda Franco Mar 12, 2024

Segura Viudas, Cava (Spain) Brut "Aria" NV ($10, Freixenet USA): Sparkling wine or "Cava" from Penedes near Barcelona in Spain can offer a lot of bubbly fun for not a lot of money, but rarely does it offer much sophistication.  This is a very notable exception.  It is admirably dry and restrained, with fine effervescence and just a little whiff of the wet straw earthiness that is distinctive to Cava.  Impressive! 88 Michael Franz Feb 13, 2007

1 + 1 = 3, Cava (Spain) Brut NV ($14, Grapes of Spain): This excellent Cava shows lots of class and very little of the rustic, wet straw character that mars many wines in the category. Toasty, nutty aromas and flavors are very pleasant, with lots of bright acidity lending freshness to this quite dry sparkler. The effervescence is unusually fine for a Cava, and the whole package offers a lot of flavor and fun for the money. 86 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Ameztoi, Getariako Txakolina (Spain) 2006 ($16, De Maison Selections): From the Basque region of northern Spain, this wine may be an uncomfortable mouthful to say, but it's delicious to drink.  Marked by bright citrus fruit and plenty of refreshing acidity, it's a vinous lemonade for adults.  A perfect summer aperitif. 88 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Osborne, Jerez (Spain) "Pale Dry Fino Sherry" NV ($10, W.J. Deutsch & Sons): Sherry, especially fino, is an under-appreciated wine in the United States. But few wines, still or fortified, are better with the salty snacks and finger foods so loved by Americans. Very pale gold in color, the attractive aroma is layered with dry straw, almond and yeasty accents, while the refreshing flavors are crisp, dry and textured, with an inviting toasty note. This very attractive value-wine should be enjoyed well-chilled with tasty tapas such as salted nuts, shellfish and ripe olives. 92 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 5, 2006

Bermejo, Lanzarote DO (Canary Islands, Spain) Diego Seco "Vino Ecológico" 2021 ($23, David Bowler Selections):  This beautiful white wine comes from Lanzarote, the fourth largest and easternmost island of the seven Canary Islands located just under 75 miles from the western Africa coast.  It is made from Diego, which according to Jancis Robinson, et. al. in Wine Grapes, is a synonym for Vijariego, a white grape, most likely from Spain’s Andalucía region.  The grape is thought to have been introduced to the Canary Islands at the end of the fifteenth century or early sixteenth century.  It has a distinctive saline quality mingling with Meyer lemon, green apple aromas and flavors.  It is elegant and supple with crisp acidity that will complement grilled shrimp or baked halibut.       
94 Rebecca Murphy Nov 29, 2022

Bodegas Los Bermejos, Lanzarote DO (Canary Islands, Spain) Malvasía Volcánica 2020 ($23, David Bowler Wine):  This charming wine was my introduction to the dramatic island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands.  It has a bright, light yellow color and fresh melon aromas with hints of ripe peaches and saline notes.  The floral, melon, citrus fruit is dry, round and intense in the mouth.  It is great as an aperitif or with sauteed sole.  Malvasía Volcánico is also called Malvasía de Lanzarote.  Malvasía grapes arrived in the Canary Islands in the 1500s, but it took 300 years for it to make it to Lanzarote. So, it has been growing on Lanzarote for another 300 plus years.  It is now considered a unique variety because of its evolution in this unique environment by the International Organization of Vine and Wine.         
93 Rebecca Murphy Nov 30, 2021

El Grifo, Lanzarote DO (Canary Islands, Spain) Vijariego Blanco Seco 2019 ($15):  El Grifo, founded in 1775, is the oldest winery on the island of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands.  The grape variety Vijariego (pronounced, "vee hah RAY go") is also called Diego.  According to Wine Grapes by Robinson, et al, was reported originally in Andalucía and was introduced to the Canary Islands in the late 1400s-early 1500s.  It is not as aromatic as other varieties in the Canary Islands like Malvasia Volcanico, but it creates wines with complexity and the ability to age.  Pale yellow color and light lemony aromas leading to forward, layered flavors of salty Meyer lemon and green apple, fresh and very lean perfect with  a fresh goat cheese or grilled shrimp.      
90 Rebecca Murphy Nov 30, 2021

Marqués de Alella, Penedés (Spain) Pansa Blanca Bodegas Parxet 2003 ($11, CIV-USA): Pansa Blanca is the name used for Xarel-lo (sha REL lo) in Alella, a district in Penedés, Catalonia. Xarel-lo has emerged as one of the premium white varieties in Northeast Spain. The '03 Parxet Pansa Blanca is dry, earthy, and medium-bodied, with more oomph than you'd expect from an $11 wine. It cries for some grilled octopus or grilled squid. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 12, 2005

Segura Viudas, Penedés (Spain) Xarel-lo Creu de Lavit 2003 ($13, Freixenet USA): Freixenet, the huge sparkling wine house, which also owns Segura Viudas, brings in a selection of dry white and red table wines from various districts in Spain which it calls "The Heredad Collection." Its Creu de Lavit Xarel-lo along with its Vionta Albariño are the two best whites in the Collection. The '03 Creu de Lavit is lively, medium-bodied, and very earthy, with lots of flavor and a long finish. 89 Ed McCarthy Sep 12, 2005

José Pariente, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2004 ($19, Grapes of Spain): I'm fortunate to taste almost every Verdejo that makes it to North America almost every year, and this bottling is almost always the best. Light-bodied and utterly refreshing, this is tough to beat in warm weather, and yet it features penetrating flavors that make it quite satisfying year round. Citrus fruit is augmented by interesting little nuances of dried herbs, straw and minerals, with superb integration of fruit and acidity. 91 Michael Franz Feb 7, 2006

Bodegas Aura, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2004 ($18, Allied Domecq): If you like characterful white wines, this impressive Verdejo from winemaker Teresa Rodriguez should go to the top of your shopping list. It's dry and medium bodied with very good concentration of mineral and stone fruit flavors. A surprisingly silky texture makes for an interesting contrast with the wine's otherwise gutsy, earthy personality. Lots of presence for not lots of money. 88 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Oct 11, 2005

Telmo Rodriguez, Sierras de Malaga (Andalucia, Spain) “Mountain Blanco” 2017 ($14, The Rare Wine Company):  Telmo Rodriguez, whose family has owned  Rioja’s legendary Bodegas Remelluri since 1967, could have just followed in his father’s footsteps.  Instead, he and his friend, Pablo Eguzkiza, traveled the region looking for old vines to make wines that reflect their origins.  He built a modern winery, Bodega Lanzaga, built into a hillside where these unique wines are made.  The Mountain Blanco is made of Muscat of Alexandria, which is responsible for many famous sweet and fortified wines.  Rodriguez shows us that this grape can produce delicious dry wines, too.  It is a remarkably fresh wine for its age with charming floral, peachy aromas and flavors, ripe round and rich in the mouth.  It is dry with zesty acidity.  While the richness in the mouth and fruity, floral flavors may give the impression of sweetness the wine is dry, a perfect partner for a spicy Thai curry.     
96 Rebecca Murphy Jun 28, 2022

Botani, Sierras de Málaga (Spain) Moscatel “Seco” 2011 ($18): The problem with dry Muscat-based wines is that they too often taste bitter, the extravagant fruitiness of their bouquet running into a proverbial brick wall of tart acid on the palate. Not this one. It makes the transition from sweet succulent aromas to lean, sinewy flavors without seeming jarring or forced, and so becomes extremely pleasurable to drink. An obvious aperitif choice, it also should marry well with seafood salads as well as lightly fried fish or even poultry.
90 Paul Lukacs Feb 19, 2013

Pirineos, Somontano (Aragon, Spain) “Mesache Blanco” 2005 ($12, Classic Wines of Spain): Talk about strange bedfellows: This wine is a blend of Macabeo (35%), Gewurztraminer (35%) and Chardonnay (30%), an irreverent mix that succeeds brilliantly.  The Gewurz bestows a predicable whiff of lychee, while the very ripe late harvested Macabeo endows it with body rather than overt sweetness.  The Chardonnay lends structure and is perhaps the source of that hint of lemon zest, a simpatico component with the peach and rosebud flavors.  With its long and fulfilling finish this wine is a terrific partner for a wide range of foods (I first had it with vegetable tempura at Nasu Blanca, a charming Japanese-Spanish restaurant in Baltimore). 90 Marguerite Thomas Jul 24, 2007

Quedarse, Spain (Spain) Macabeo 2018 ($19):  Otherwise known as Virua and widely planted in the Rioja and Navarra regions of Spain, Macabeo is the everyday white of northeastern Spain.  The Quedarse, however, is a step up from every day, showing exquisite freshness, notes of yellow stone fruits and a slight essence of honeysuckle on the nose.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.  
94 Robert Whitley Jan 28, 2020

Comarca, Spain (Spain) Verdejo 2019 ($17):  Verdejo can deliver you to a summery Spanish afternoon with its sunny disposition of lively citrus with subtle stonefruit layers, and this example succeeds in doing so with elegance.  Nice price to boot!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Monterey International Wine Competition.       
92 Rich Cook Mar 23, 2021

Terra Sara, Spain (Spain) Verdejo 2020 ($16, Hemispheres):   Verdejo is another grape variety that is thankfully making some inroads with importers.  This example is creamy and crisp, with lemon crème and peach in front, lemon zest in back, and a long crisp finish.  Simply lovely.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.        
92 Rich Cook Oct 12, 2021

Iñaki Garrido, Tenerife (Canary Islands, Spain) Listán Blanco “Las Toscas” 2019 ($55, M.F.W Wine Co New York):  The ancient vines of Tenerife (an autonomous territory of Spain and the largest of the Canary Islands) are producing excellent quality wines that merit seeking out.  The 2019 Iñaki Garrido Las Toscas Blanco is quintessential Listán Blanco (also known as Palomino) from old vines grown at 1,400-meter elevation on volcanic soils.  It offers alluring aromatics of white citrus, herbs, wet stone, and charred lemon.  The palate is fresh, crisp, salty, mineral-driven, and utterly refreshing.  This is pure, beautiful rock juice.  The hint of sea salt on the finish makes it quite versatile with food.       
93 Miranda Franco Nov 23, 2021

Tajinaste, Tenerife (Canary Islands, Spain) Blanco Seco 2020 ($26, David Bowler Wine):  The island of Tenerife, part of Spain's Canary Islands, includes abundant microclimates, high-altitude vineyards, and volcanic soil, offering an environment favorable to producing pure, mineral-rich whites like this 2020 varietal Listán Blanco, the local strain of Palomino.  The wine is bright and energizing with aromas of green apple, pear, and white pepper, followed by flavors of lemon zest, tart green apple, and a hint of fennel.  The crisp mineral edge at the finish makes you want to go back to the glass over and over again.       
92 Miranda Franco Jul 27, 2021

El Macho, Utiel-Requena DO (Valencia, Spain) Viura-Chardonnay 2016 ($25): I'm seeing more and more Spanish whites with this blend on the label, and I'm sure you will be too as wines of this quality make their way into the public consciousness.  It's crisp, dry, and refreshing, focused on dry stone fruit flavors with touches of leaf and granite minerality.  The finish is zesty and blossoms for a good minute.  Very nice!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2017 Monterey International Wine Competition.
93 Rich Cook Mar 14, 2017

Castelo do Papa, Valdeorras DO (Spain) Godello 2021 ($19, Ole & Obrigato): The Godello grape is grown most notably in the region of Valdeorras in northwestern Spain.  When well-made, it offers a combination of fruit and textural elements that make it a most satisfying drink.  The 2021 Castelo do Papa Valdeorras Godello is a lovely example of the grape’s charms.  The grapes were planted in 1983 in terraced vineyards on slate and granite soils.  The low yields from spare soils give wines of considerable concentration.  The bouquet of the 2021 Godello is expressive and enticing with vivid orange, peach and melon fruit scents interwoven with elements of jasmine, ginger and honey.  On the palate, it shows layered and pure flavors of peach, tangerine and ripe apple backed by floral and honey nuances plus a rich texture that enhances the long, minerally-clean finish.  The Castelo do Papa Godello is not only clean and bright enough to pair with seafood, but also sufficiently full-bodied to serve with chicken and pork recipes.           
92 Wayne Belding Feb 14, 2023

Piquitos, Valencia (Spain) Moscatel 2013 ($10, Hammeken Cellars): This is a flirtatious little wine that first beckons you with Muscat’s recognizable floral perfume, but in Piquito’s case the fragrance is subtle and engaging rather than heavy handed. In fact everything about this wine is refreshingly subtle, from the degree of sweetnes -- which here is tempered by a flicker of acidity plus a hint of chalky minerality -- to the restrained alcohol level (11%). The flavors are fresh yet intricate (the grapes come from 15 to 20 year old vines), while Charmat Method fermentation stopped at 1-2° brix adds the merest whisper of tiny bubbles to twinkle against the wine’s fairly lush texture. Good with any number of foods from ramen to ratatouille, Piquitos can also be a refreshing aperitif wine. In fact I discovered that adding a splash of Boissière or other nice red Vermouth may be seen as gilding the lily a bit, but it does result in a very fine cocktail.
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 19, 2016

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Aragon:

Red:

Juanvi, Aragón (Spain) Garnacha “La Viña de Báguena” 2019 ($45, De Maison Selections):  Juanvi is a small-scale artisan winery in Rubielos de Mora in the Sierra de Gúdar-Javalambre Mountains.  La Viña de Báguena is an elegant and balanced 100-percent Garnacha with explosive aromatics.  On the palate, it is utterly fresh with abundant notes of expressive wild strawberries, sun-dried leather, blood orange, red currant, and fennel, which all fuse together with plush tannins and fine acidity.  This is a perfect example of the balance between powerful, bright, and savory that makes this expression of Garnacha so special.  Notably, it is released in minimal quantities once a year so get it while it lasts!        
92 Miranda Franco Jun 20, 2023

Anciano, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha "35 Year Old Vines" 2015 ($18, Well-Oiled Wine Co.):  An increasingly popular grape variety with American consumers, Grenache (or Garnacha in Spanish) offers a supple texture but rich flavor.  It often yields wines that taste one-dimensional, but this rendition bucks that trend.  Perhaps because of vine age, it offers echoes of coffee and chocolate alongside its dark cherry fruit, resulting in a sophisticated wine with genuine complexity. 
92 Paul Lukacs Feb 13, 2018

Las Rocas, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) “Viñas Viejas de San Alejandro” 2009 ($20, Las Rocas USA/Gallo):  This is a Gallo import that heads a trio of reds, and though it is the most expensive of the three, it is definitely the one to look for.  Made from very old, head-pruned vines, it is a terrific expression of Garnacha, showing excellent depth and flavor impact but still some primary fruit notes and real freshness.  The fruit exhibits both red and black fruit characters, with subtle underlying accents of carpaccio, woodsmoke and spices.  A superior wine for grilled meats ranging from chicken to lamb.  For as much as I admire the path-breaking work of importers specializing in Spain, I must say this was quite a coup for Gallo.
92 Michael Franz May 1, 2012

Acentor, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha 2016 ($14, Grapes of Spain):  With an additional year of aging by comparison to Garnacha wines from the 2017 vintage, this shows slightly toned-down fruit and modestly tuned-up savory notes, but is still full of fruity fun.  Red berry tones join cherry flavors, and the soft tannins lend a bit of backbone without imparting any astringency or hardness to the finish.  In a word:  Yum.  
90 Michael Franz Nov 20, 2018

Gallina de Piel, Calatayud (Aragón, Spain) “Mimetic” 2018 ($15, Bluest Sky Group):  Though I’ve given some background on the Gallina de Piel wines previously, it bears repeating because their wines represent great bargains.  So, it’s worth hearing the story again.  Two sommeliers, one of whom, David Seijas, worked at El Bulli, named the best restaurant in the world five times by Restaurant magazine, founded Gallina de Piel.  (Which transliterates into English as “chicken skin” from Spanish, the equivalent of goose bumps in English.)  They travel around Spain finding unique wines to bottle under that label.  This one delivers mild dark fruit flavors, but is not overly fruity.  Good acidity keeps it fresh.  A bit of earthiness lurks underneath the suave patina.  An ideal amount of tannic structure supports without intruding.  It is the Spanish equivalent of a pizza wine, or a wine for take-out roast chicken, or burgers, or tapas.  You get the picture.   It’s a great buy.          
90 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2021

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha “Viñas Viejas” 2009 ($20, Las Rocas USA):  In addition to added complexity, the old vines (viñas viejas) used for this bottling provide riper grapes that translates into a bigger, more robust wine than their regular bottling (previously reviewed).  Despite an added tarry component and more power, its additional class prevents it from going over the top.  Not for the faint of heart, match it with lamb or well-seasoned beef. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 2, 2012

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Spain) 'El Renegado' 2012 ($14): A blend of Garnacha, Syrah and Tempranillo, Las Rocas' El Renegado is a zesty, refreshing wine that offers aromas of raspberry jam, spice and mouth-watering acidity in an inexpensive package. Perfect for sausages from the grill or with jamon or Mediterranean tapas. 88 Robert Whitley Oct 14, 2014

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha 2011 ($14): Here is another good choice when you need a robust red to go with burgers, skirt steak or even lamb cooked on the grill.  A touch of spice in the finish complements the otherwise bright ripe fruit flavors.  Suave tannins add support but not astringency.  In short, it delivers more than the price suggests. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 19, 2014

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Red Blend 2009 ($14, Las Rocas USA):  The label gives no indication of the blend, but frankly, Las Rocas makes such consistently good value-packed wine, that whatever blend they select is fine with me.  This one is the lightest--but certainly not vapid--of their current trio of releases.  It delivers captivating, hard to resist strawberry-like flavors offset by a touch of spice.  It’s easy to recommend for pizza, burgers or even ribs. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 2, 2012

Bodegas Breca, Calatayud DO (Aragón, Spain) Garnacha “Brega” 2016 ($40, Fine Estates from Spain):  Imagine a pepper-driven Amarone and you’ll have some idea of the profile of this bruiser from Jorge Ordóñez Selections.  Sourced from 100 year-old vines, it delivers raisin box and white pepper aromas that translate to a dry, full throttle black cherry and black plum palate with oodles of pepper providing an interesting counterpoint.  This is made for stinky cheese – I’m seeing a reduction of this drizzled over a slab of Comte with a glass alongside as a decadent, savory dessert.   
93 Rich Cook Apr 14, 2020

Legado del Moncayo, Campo de Borja (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha "Montaña" 2016 ($14):  If you don’t know much Spanish -- or much about Spanish wines -- Garnacha is the same variety as Grenache in French; Montaña translates to English as “mountain,” and these 40 year-old vines are all situated above 2,000 feet.  This terrific wine displays a fresh fruit core of red berries with spicy, smoky accents and a hint of juiciness to balance its tannic grip. 
91 Michael Franz May 1, 2018

Legado del Moncayo, Campo de Borja (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha "Montana", Vendimia Seleccionada 2017 ($15, Grapes of Spain):  I love this wine, and I love it every year… and I know that I may be undercutting my “critical” credibility by writing that.  But the truth is that this wine hits just the right balance points vintage after vintage.  Sourced from a higher elevation vineyard site than Legado del Moncayo’s “regular” bottling, it shows more concentrated, gutsier fruit, with a more notable suggestion of a little wood influence.  But then again, any wood influence is just “suggested,” and the fruit still stands at center stage -- albeit with unusually good structure for a wine in this price category.  The flavors recall both red and black cherries, with just a hint of spice and a subtle savory layer running beneath the fruit flavors.  Whereas the “regular” Legado del Moncayo is suited to poultry or fish, this starts in terms of suitability at poultry and works its way up to pork, veal or duck…and would be entirely satisfying with a burger.
91 Michael Franz Nov 20, 2018

Legado del Moncayo, Campo de Borja (Aragón, Spain) Garnacha “Montaña” Vendimia Seleccionada 2019 ($15, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  I’ve never tasted a vintage of this special, upper elevation selection from Legado del Moncayo that I didn’t love, and the 2019 keeps that string alive.  Always darker, deeper, and slightly plusher in feel than the (freshly delicious) regular bottling, it nevertheless remains quite lithe and lovely.  There are, as usual, some black cherry notes in this bottling to go along with the red ones, and the overall proportions of fruit sweetness, acidity and tannin are just right.  I’ve placed this on the wine list of all the restaurants for which I consult in multiple vintages, and the 2019 is a very strong candidate indeed.         
91 Michael Franz Dec 1, 2020

Legado del Moncayo, Campo de Borja (Aragón, Spain) Garnacha 2019 ($12, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Joyously juicy and packed with fresh fruit aromas and flavors, this is simple but also simply delicious.  Tart pie cherry fruit notes predominate, with ripe fruit sweetness (not residual sugar) balancing out the palate impression, and unobtrusive tannins lending structure but no bitterness or astringency.  This will get a bit more complex over the next couple of years, but there’s no reason not to dive in now with lighter foods.       
89 Michael Franz Dec 1, 2020

Legado del Moncayo, Campo de Borja (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha 2017 ($14, Grapes of Spain):  Simple, but simply delicious, this is a very pure rendering of Garnacha that doesn’t come off as grapey or obvious, which is exactly the danger for this grape in this style.  Subtle savory undertones lend complexity and interest, and there’s enough acidity to keep it fresh, and enough tannin to offer framing.  Basically a perfect, risk-free wine for Thanksgiving, this delivers roughly the juicy, open fruit flavors associated with good, standard Beaujolais, except that the flavors are both deeper and more lasting. 
88 Michael Franz Nov 20, 2018

Gil Family Estates, Campo de Borja DO (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha "Flor de Goda" 2018 ($12):  Thanks to an amazing abundance of old, dry farmed vines, the Campo de Borja DO in Spain's province of Aragon is one of the world's top sources for delicious, satisfying reds made from Garnacha (a.k.a. Grenache) at remarkably low prices.  This is certainly an excellent case in point, featuring open, expressive red berry and cherry fruit with just a touch of spice to lend complexity, but no obtrusive oak to mask the admirably pure fruit notes.  A wicked good sipper, but also a great choice for fish dishes or lighter preparations of white meats.  A Double Gold Award Winner at the 2020 Toast of the Coast International Wine Competition.    
91 Michael Franz Mar 3, 2020

El Circo, Grandes Vinos y Viñedos, Carinena (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha “Acróbata” 2015 ($10, Seaview Imports):  This rich, red wine is very aromatic and is nicely balanced between fruit and spice.  The tannins are firm and the finish reasonably long.  At this price point it may be one of the best buys of the year.
90 Marguerite Thomas Feb 5, 2019

Grandes Vinos y Viñedos / El Circo, Carinena (Aragon, Spain) Tempranillo “Volatinero” 2016 ($10, Seaview Imports):  If this impressive red wine cost twice the price it would still be a bargain.  Medium bodied, with lively red fruit flavors and surprising complexity, it is indeed as graceful as an acrobat (which is what “Volatinero” translates to in English).  The El Circo brand includes a range of circus-themed wines such as Ballerina (Merlot) and Contortionist (Cabernet Sauvignon).  It comes from a modern and forward thinking co-op in Cariñena in the province of Zaragoza (Aragon).  Created in 1932, this is one of the oldest protected growing areas in Europe (it is said to be where the Carignan grape originated).
90 Marguerite Thomas Oct 9, 2018

Las Rocas, Catalayud DO (Aragón, Spain) Garnacha 2017 ($18):  Compelling Grenache, or Garnacha in this case, brings rich fruit, white pepper, fine grained tannins and vibrant acidity.  It's all here, with black cherry and lemon zest taking center stage.  The pepper element sits in fine balance with the fruit and comingles beautifully through an extended finish.  It’s a fine value and should be pretty easy to find.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.       
94 Rich Cook Jun 29, 2021

Las Rocas, Catalayud DO (Aragon, Spain) “El Renegado” 2012 ($14, Las Rocas USA): I must say that Gallo is working smart these days when it comes to their foreign interests.  This label is representing their Spanish portfolio with a flourish, with a great rosé earlier this year, and now this wine -- a blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Syrah that brings dry raspberry, cherry, black pepper, orange zest and tobacco in both aroma and flavor, with moderate grip and a long peppery finish that will pair with a wide selection of spicy red meat preparations.  Nice price, wide availability, food friendliness -- we've got another winner.
90 Rich Cook Oct 28, 2014

Rosé:

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha Rosé 2013 ($14): Las Rocas -- as it’s known -- is one of those reliable producers who consistently produce a fabulous array of well-priced wines.  Even their rosé -- readers know that’s not my favorite category -- is stunning.  It draws you in with a seductive pink color and follows with bracingly vibrant, almost spicy, notes. Strawberry nuances in dry finish just add to the enjoyment.  This is a fabulous summertime drink, either as a stand-alone or to accompany a hearty Niçoise salad or grilled tuna.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 5, 2014

Las Rocas, Calatayud (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha Rosé Bodegas de San Alejandro 2012 ($14, E. & J. Gallo): Gallo imports this saignee-method rosé, and while I generally don’t give high marks to rosés produced from the wine that has been bled off of red-wine fermentations, this one strikes a positive chord.  It’s quite rich for a rosé, with a cherry liqueur entry, yet it finishes bright and clean, with juicy strawberry and raspberry flavors.  It’s a rosé that can stand up to sturdy dishes.
87 Linda Murphy Jun 18, 2013

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud DO (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha Rosé 2013 ($14): Stock up, dry rosé lovers!  This is a beautifully made bottling that displays strawberry, cherry, pepper and leafy notes, all of which translate directly to the palate, carried by vibrant acidity and producing an integrated finish that goes on and on.  It should be widely available at a discounted price, but it's easily worth its full retail.
92 Rich Cook Jul 15, 2014

Legado del Moncayo, Campo de Borja (Aragón, Spain) Garnacha Rosado 2020 ($15, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is among the best rosé wines I’ve had the pleasure to taste this year.  It is admirably fresh, with a tart edge reminiscent of pie cherries, yet there’s nothing sour about it.  Although it is truly a dry wine, its vivid fruit lets it seem generous, but not in an obvious or “grapey” way.  All the flavors and structural elements tail off evenly in the finish — which is a hallmark of very well-made rosé.  Delicious as a sipping wine, but also very versatile for tableside enjoyment.          
91 Michael Franz Apr 6, 2021

Legado del Moncayo, Campo de Borja DO (Aragón, Spain) Rosado 2020 ($15, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  The Garnacha grapes that are responsible for this appealing Rosé grow on the slopes of the extinct Moncayo volcano (Moncayo is one of Spain’s most popular hiking regions).  With its generous dash of red fruits (cherries, raspberries), this pleasingly dry wine finishes on a crisp note.  Enjoy it as an aperitif and/or serve it with something along the lines of paella or cheese-centric quiche.       
91 Marguerite Thomas Apr 13, 2021

White:

Legado del Moncayo, Campo de Borja (Aragon, Spain) Garnacha Blanca 2017 ($14, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  I’m much more familiar with Garnacha Blanca from Catalonia than Aragon, but this is a very convincing rendition of the variety.  Medium-bodied, with open fruit flavors recalling white melon, tangerine and autumn pear, this is quite juicy and flavorful when first sipped, but then shows a more taut, citrus character in the finish.  This sensory transition from a broad fore-palate to a linear aftertaste will help this work well with a very wide variety of foods, including anything from a roasted chicken to shellfish dishes such as shrimp or mussels.  Delicious, and a very attractive bargain.
91 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2018

Legado del Moncayo, Campo de Borja DO (Aragón, Spain) Garnacha Blanca 2020 ($15, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is a very successful rendition of Garnacha Blanca that will excel as a summer sipper or a partner for spicy foods.  Juicy and full of fresh fruit, yet not grapey or obvious, it shows delicious notes recalling golden apples, mangoes and pears.  Delicate scents of white blossoms are alluring without being excessively perfumed, and there’s plenty of acidity to freshen the aftertaste without threatening to seem too tart to even the most sensitive tasters.  The finish is admirably persistent for a wine that offers so much pure fun up front.            
90 Michael Franz May 11, 2021

La Fea, Cariñena DO (Aragón, Spain) Viura / Chardonnay "Selección Especial" 2018 ($11, Wine Insiders):  An interesting blend, combining the nutty character of Viura with the lemon crème character of Chardonnay, resulting here in a crisp wine that will suit mild cheeses or green salads.  Nice price to boot!   A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
94 Rich Cook Sep 24, 2019

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Calatayud:

Red:

Las Rocas, Calatayud (Spain) Garnacha 2012 ($14): This little-known DO in north-central Spain is warm and dry in summer, making for intense, bold red wines. Garnacha is the money grape of the region and Las Rocas does it proud with the 2012 vintage, which exhibits jammy red fruits, spice and a touch of anise for an exotic complexity. Exceptional quality in value-priced red wine from Spain. 89 Robert Whitley May 19, 2015

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Castilla y León:

Red:

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2009 ($90, Grapes of Spain): Paixar is two things at once:  A very obscure wine in terms of the awareness of the average wine lover, but also one of the greatest wines of the entire world -- much less Spain.  Bierzo is a very remote location in the northwest of Spain (which perhaps helps to explain why its wines have only recently been introduced to the wider world) and Mencia is a variety that isn’t found almost anywhere else around the globe, so the obscurity of Paixar is easy enough to understand.  But with that said, the wine’s completely compelling character and obvious greatness keeps it surrounded with an air of mystery, since tasting it makes it seem impossible that it could still be flying under almost everyone’s radar.  The 2009 is a worthy successor to the greatest renditions made since Paixar’s relatively recent debut, namely, 2001, 2004 and 2008.  Like most of the world’s great reds, the 2009 is impressively dark in color and exceedingly deep and persistent in flavor, but what is unusual is that there’s no hint of over-ripeness or over-extraction, which are two chronic shortcomings in “statement wines” that are reaching for the stars.  On the contrary, Paixar 2009 is almost perfectly natural-seeming, with wonderful freshness from acidity that is impeccably balanced in relation to the wine’s fruity sweetness.  Moreover, an intense minerality makes the wine seem much less a product of tricks in the cellar than a marvel drawn directly from the vineyard (and its very old, extremely low-yielding vines).  This attribute is reinforced by exemplary balance between fruit- and mineral-based flavors and spicy, toasty, but very suble oak notes, and indeed the wine has already soaked up almost all of its overtly woody accents, resulting in a seamless character which is very striking in a young wine of such complexity.  I’m not sure I understand how a wine can be completely amazing and completely convincing at the same time, but in this instance both of those reactions are what result from direct experience of it.
99 Michael Franz Feb 11, 2014

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2001 ($70, Grapes of Spain): It's not often that a producer's early wines from a new area are so outstanding.  Usually it takes time to discern the quirks of the vineyards and area.  But the 2001 Paixar has it all.  Powerful, but not overdone- -- a mere 13.5% alcohol -- it delivers layers of mineral-infused nuances seamlessly intertwined with succulent black cherry-like flavor.   Secondary fruit flavors are just starting to peek out from the fine supple tannins indicating that this wine will continue to evolve beautifully.  It's exotic without being flamboyant or out of place.  If this is the kind of wine they make from the start, watch out. 98 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Las Lamas 2005 ($140, The Rare Wine Company): Not yet bottled, this barrel sample marries the best of the Moncerbal and the San Martín.  Floral aromas grab your attention and then a fabulous combination of a silky richness surrounding a mineral core holds it.  Despite its extraordinary power and length, it retains a fascinating delicacy in the finish. 97 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2008 ($100, Grapes of Spain):  If you’ve still not experienced the remarkable quality that top vintners can coax from the Mencia grape in the remote, rugged region of Bierzo in northwestern Spain, this would be the bottle to try.  Even at this young age it is remarkably complex, which is in turn attributable to its outstanding proportionality in the sense that no particular element overshadows the others.  It shows subtle floral aromas akin to those one might find in Barbaresco or Côte-Rôtie, followed by fruit notes that run red as well as black, recalling cherries, plums and blackberries.  Oak influence is apparent but subtle, with toasty, spicy notes and a bit of grip from wood tannin in the finish, but the fruit easily counterbalances the oak.  As if this were not enough, the wine shows an almost palpable minerality recalling wet slate and graphite.  Finally, the wine’s texture is almost as interesting as its aromas and flavors, seeming soft thanks to the ripeness of the fruit, but also focused on account of ample acidity and very fine grained tannin.  This is in a league with the world’s very best red wines, and in that context it remains very fairly priced--for the moment. 97 Michael Franz Dec 27, 2011

Paixar, Bierzo (León, Spain) Mencia 2018 ($79, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero): The 2018 release is an awesome rendition of Paixar, if different from many of its predecessors in showing very open bright fruit and exceptional overall freshness.  Floral aromatic topnotes are both captivating and exciting when enjoyed while beholding the wine’s very deep pigmentation, as the combination of aromatic charm and muscular-looking fruit offers an initial impression of a wine promising exceptional dimension and complexity.  That promise is fulfilled entirely on the palate, which offers flavors recalling black and red fruit tones as well as a blue fruit note that emerges as the wine opens in the glass.  The wood component is less evident in this vintage than in some earlier ones (I’ve tasted almost every release going back to this wine’s debut from the 2001 vintage), but it isn’t so easy to determine whether that’s because the toast level in the large casks was lower, or the wine removed earlier, or whether the fruit was just more absorptive in 2018.  Be that as it may, the result is a wonderful combination of prettiness and power.  The wine’s initial brightness and freshness is a bit misleading even after the wine has been well aerated, as there’s more physical density than was immediately apparent; the tears in a high-quality glass indicate the presence of plenty of glycerol, and though the wine softens with additional aeration, it actually seems to take on a bit of weight rather than lightening up as it loosens up.  This is a very stylish wine that will be fascinating to watch over the years to come, but one that would be a terrific choice for current use in persuading a friend who doesn’t know about Mencía or this variety’s greatness when derived from well-tended old vines and crafted by an outstanding producer.       
97 Michael Franz Dec 1, 2020

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2016 ($79, Grapes of Spain):  Longtime readers of WRO might already be aware of my utter adoration of this wine in almost every vintage, and now that the terrific 2016 is available, you can add another vintage to the list of fantastic Paixar bottlings stretching back to the initial release from 2001.  The 2016 leans a bit more toward the sleek, fresh and elegant side of the Paixar spectrum than did the 2015, but with that noted, nobody could fail to appreciate the depth and length of the flavors offered by the 2016 (thanks, no doubt, to the old vines that have always been the source for this wine).  The oak is especially well integrated in this vintage, which will make it tempting early on, but the smart money will hold onto this for another five years before cracking into it.  Combining the usually divergent virtues of power and intricacy, this is a complete wine of superb quality.   
96 Michael Franz Oct 29, 2019

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2004 ($70, Grapes of Spain): Paixar's hallmark of elegance combined with intensity is readily apparent in the 2004 vintage.  Slightly fresher than the 2003, its minerality and succulence is sustained throughout an incredible finish.  Polished fine tannins lend structure without being intrusive.  Despite spending 16 months in new French oak barrels, this is not an 'oaky' wine.  Beautifully integrated, the multitude of flavors slide together effortlessly and last seemingly forever. 96 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Veronica Ortega, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “VO Cobrana” 2021 ($60, Elenteny Imports):  Veronica Ortega has made a name for herself, recovering old winemaking traditions and redefining what Bierzo can be.   Her 2021 VO Cobrana, a Mencía-dominant blend with a small amount of several regional varieties, is utterly expressive and delectable.  The wine is a deep ruby red, and the fruit is pure and silky with waves of spiced red and black cherries, violets, wild thyme, rosemary, and peppercorn.  The wine finishes with impressive focus, concentration, and structure to age further.  This is one of the most fascinating Mencía wines you can find.    
96 Miranda Franco Nov 7, 2023

Veronica Ortega, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Cobrana” 2021 ($60, Elenteny Imports):  Verónica Ortega's Cobrana 2021 captivates with its elegance, depth, and sense of place.  Situated in Bierzo Alto, Cobrana is a small town within the municipality of Congosto.  Predominantly Mencía, this wine also includes Doña Blanca, Palomino, Godello, Alicante Bouschet, and Estaladiña.  Cobrana immediately entices with a bouquet of tart strawberries and raspberries, layered with subtle floral notes of violets and a delicate hint of spice.  A distinct mineral quality reminiscent of the slate soils characteristic of Bierzo adds complexity and depth.  The wine has a remarkable freshness, with bright acidity lending a sense of energy and lift.  Wild herbs and balsamic nuances emerge as the wine evolves in the glass, contributing to the wine’s multi-layered character.         
96 Miranda Franco Feb 20, 2024

Bodegas Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) "Paixar" 2021 ($80, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  I have been fortunate to taste and review almost every vintage of Paixar since the first release from the 2001 vintage.  Long-time readers of Wine Review Online know that I love this wine, and I love it still, but for different reasons than in some great past vintages such as, say 2004 — which may be my favorite of all.  The wine has become lighter in sheer weight, with less overt wood, and both of these will be changes for the better in the view of many tasters.  However, this very old vine site at high elevation in the little village of Dragonte always seems to provide abundant acidity, so the richer, riper vintages have always been successful.  Be that as it may, my job is not to quibble over stylistic decisions but to evaluate wines as they result from whatever the winemaker has decided, and this is certainly a delicious and very interesting wine.  Showing a bright character in a medium-bodied profile, this offers up a broad range of aromas and flavors based on fruit tones both red and black, with specific notes recalling red cherries and raspberries, ripe but still tart cranberries, black Bing cherries, and boysenberries (which grow all over my neighborhood — I’m not making this up).  The overall balance of fruit, acidity, oak spice, and tannin is indisputably outstanding.      
95 Michael Franz Sep 26, 2023

Bodegas Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) "Art" 2021 ($65, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  The 2021 Mencía-based releases from Luna Beberide are smashingly good and dangerously delicious even in their youth, without seeming "played out" or "dumbed down."  This wine fits that description perfectly, and is among the best releases of “Art” yet to be issued by the bodega, and surely the fastest out of the starting blocks for sheer enjoyability.  Sourced from low-yielding vines averaging around 75 years of age, this emits a lot of aroma and flavor for its weight, which is really just medium-bodied and notably lighter than some previous vintages of this wine.  A lighter, fresher style has also marked the top-of-line “Paixar” release (one click up from this bottling) during the past couple of vintages, making the change seem deliberate.  I don’t particular favor or disfavor the seemingly new style, as these 2021s are indisputably outstanding.  (Still, anyone who has ever tasted Paixar from 2001 or 2004, for example, will share my ambivalence.)  Under Bierzo’s new classification system, this (like the Finca Luna Beberide bottling from 2021) is a “Vino de Paraje” from the Valdetruchas site in the village of Villafranca del Bierzo.  I will publish a lengthy column before long outlining this new classification system within the Bierzo D.O., which is very interesting and helpful, but requires some explanation.  Before that column appears, and within it, and also after it, I’ll also publish a whole slew of reviews from an intensive tasting trip from March of this year.  But to return to this wonderful wine, it shows more spice and overall complexity from a slightly stronger dose of oak aging than the Finca Luna Beberide release from this vintage, but not enough to lead almost anyone to characterize it as “oaky,” as the old-vine fruit easily outruns the wood notes all the way through the finish, with not one particle of wood tannin outlasting the fruit flavors or grape tannins.  Although ripe and soft in flavor and texture, it is still adequately structured, and even at this tender age, the wine is so well integrated that one doesn’t really experience the fruit, acidity, oak or tannin as distinct elements, but rather as interwoven strands of a multicolored garment.  This will seem a little light for $65 wine to some consumers, but those same consumers would probably consider a similarly styled but less complex Volnay from Burgundy a little light for $130.  Take your pick.    
95 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2023

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Petalos” 2021 ($19, Rare Wine Company):  Alvaro Palacios, producer of one of Spain’s most expensive wines, L’Ermita from the Priorat region, is also the producer in partnership with his nephew, Ricardo Perez Palacios, of this more modestly-priced wine from the Mencia grape grown in the Bierzo DOP region of Spain.   In their hands, it is a complex, deeply colored dark ruby wine with delectable, lush, blackberry, plum, black cherry fruit enhanced with herbal, floral notes.  It is full bodied and well balanced with zesty acidity and ripe, well-integrated tannins.  It pairs well with an array of flavors like barbeque beef, mushroom risotto, or pepperoni pizza.         
95 Rebecca Murphy Feb 27, 2024

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) La Faraona 2005 ($160, The Rare Wine Company): La Faraona is a single vineyard of just over one acre, and the highest in the village of Corullón.  Minerals and a core of ripe sweet ripe balance the firm tannins that give it a clear 'mountain' character.  Yet the underlying opulence and silkiness of the wine comes through. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2003 ($70, Grapes of Spain): The 2003 Paixar has remarkable class especially considering the difficulties making wine across Europe in that hot dry year.  It retains the uncanny combination of polish and power without being over-extracted or overdone. The family resemblance to the 2001 is clear. 95 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2007 ($100, Grapes of Spain):  A worthy successor to the terrific 2004 Paixar and the other-worldly 2001, this wine is phenomenal in 2007.  The aromas and flavors are strikingly expressive and very complex, showing alluring notes of spices, vanilla, pencil shavings, cocoa powder, woodsmoke and bright fruit recalling raspberries and cherries.  Bolstered by plenty of tannin and fancy French oak, this is seriously structured but still very easy enjoy already when decanted and paired with robust foods.  It shows the freshness and definition that are establishing Mencia as one of the world's great grape varieties--at least in the view of those few individuals who are showing the foresight to invest in the few elite wines that are being made from the ancient vines and steep slopes being reclaimed by the visionaries who have brought them back from the brink of extinction.  There will be a day--before long--when the word will truly be out on these wines, and on that day this price of $100 will look like a bargain.  Mark my words.... 95 Michael Franz Mar 29, 2011

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2011 ($70, Grapes of Spain): I’ve tasted every vintage of this Paixar ever made -- with the single exception of 2010 -- and regard it as one of Spain’s very best wines (and consequently one of the world’s best also).  The 2011 rendition shows typically impressive pigment concentration, and the first aromatic impression is of toasty oak.  Beneath the oak, subtle scents of anise, exotic spices and wood smoke prove quite alluring.  Medium-plus body is standard for Paixar and that’s what the 2011 shows; there’s richness and substance, but no sense of heaviness.  Dark berry fruit notes predominate, but there’s also a bright, fresh streak to the wine that also lends a suggestion of red fruits, and the overall impression is one of purity and precision.  On the palate and in the finish, oak remains rather prominent, but the proportions of oak, fruit and tannin are just right, and those who can give this the 10 years of ageing that it deserves will get a great wine in return for their patience.  If that seems like a lot to ask, remember that this is how you’d be advised to treat a $70 bottle of Bordeaux, and trust me:  This will turn out to be a much better wine than anything you’ll get from Bordeaux for $70.
95 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2014

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencía 2013 ($85, Grapes of Spain):  Paixar is one of the handful of truly great expressions of Mencía from Bierzo.  That won't mean a lot to many consumers, but those who have a passable inventory of tasting experiences with these amazing wines will know that this means Paixar is among the best wines of Spain, and thereby among the great wines of the world.  The first vintage was 2001, and every release has been terrific--including 2002, which was an exceedingly un-promising growing season.  This wine from 2013 is also from a vintage that nobody in Bierzo has much good to say about (I spent a week there in May), but I'll be damned if this isn't yet another killer edition of Paixar.  It seems a little tight and woody right after the cork is pulled, but blooms gradually over the course of three hours into something increasingly gorgeous.  The aromatic notes include subtle suggestions of toast, spices and cedar, followed by flavors recalling black cherry, pomegranate and black raspberry.  Mineral notes are initially rather muted, but they become increasingly prominent as the wine opens with airing, ultimately becoming as prominent as fruit in the wine's very long finish.  There's plenty of acidity to keep the whole package fresh, and the proportionality and integration of tannin, fruit and wood is clearly outstanding.  What is ultimately most impressive, though, it the persistent minerality in the finish, which makes this seem like a wine born more of rocks than of grapes.  Indisputably terrific--as usual.
95 Michael Franz Oct 29, 2016

Pitticum, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Aurea” 2010 ($45, Baron Francois): The vines are centuries old.  The color of the wine is deep and inviting. The aromas and flavors are lush and complex, offering layers of fruit (notably cherries), stony minerality, earthiness, and spice.  The texture is like velvet against the tongue, and the finish is long and pleasurable.
95 Marguerite Thomas Jun 20, 2017

Pitticum, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Aurea” 2010 ($45, Baron Francois): The vines are centuries old.  The color of the wine is deep and inviting.  The aromas and flavors are lush and complex, offering layers of fruit (notably cherries), stony minerality, earthiness, and spice.  The texture is like velvet against the tongue, and the finish is long and pleasurable.
95 Marguerite Thomas May 9, 2017

Casar de Burbia, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Tebaida” 2007 ($50, Bonafide Wine Estates):  This gorgeous wine is among the very best of the appellation, and is a challenger to such start as Paixar and the San Martin and La Lamas bottlings from Descendientes de José Palacios.  Importantly, it costs less than half what is currently being asked for these other wines, and though it may be a little less concentrated than they are, it may be even more intensely mineral in character--which is really saying something.  It shows a very healthy dose of fancy French oak, but only if one really “looks” for it, as the intensity of the bright, fresh, dark cherry fruit and the amazing minerality that rides through the finish are more than a match for the wood notes.  Simply stunning stuff. 94 Michael Franz Oct 19, 2010

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) San Martín 2005 ($100, The Rare Wine Company): With an annual production of less than 2,000 bottles, Palacios' 'single-vineyard wines' are tough to find.  Technically not sourced from a single vineyard, but rather several parcels all located on the San Martín hill, this wine is silky and plush with a fabulous nose of violets and spice.  Layers of minerality that persist into the finish and impeccable balance reinforce the initial impression that this is a great wine. 94 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Paixar” 2020 ($80, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  They say that confession is good for the soul, so I should acknowledge that this is among my favorite wines in the world (I’d bet that my cellar holds more of it than anyone in the USA aside from the importer), and I have quite a soft spot for the family behind the wine.  With that caveat noted, the 2020 Paixar is delicious but different than many earlier releases going back to the first vintage in 2001, showing softer texture, less overt wood even at this early stage in its development, and a more approachable character – if less seemingly age-ability.  All of this is good news for those who don’t have wine cellars or sufficient patience to let wines age for 7 to 10 years from the vintage, which is when Paixar is usually hitting its stride.  It is possible that I’m just catching this at in a phase when it is “open” and showy, which it is — in both aroma and flavor.  Whereas this was formerly raised in just a few 500-liter new, French oak barrels, the tech sheet for this vintage indicates aging of 12 months in 5,000 liter Foudres and used — not new — 500 liter casks.  Not the most powerful Paixar ever released, but a very pretty one that may hold even more potential than it is showing right now.  One indication of potential is that my bottle held up extremely well over 24 hours after being opened initially, so this may have even more staying power than it is showing at this time.
94 Michael Franz Apr 5, 2022

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2005 ($90, Grapes of Spain): This amazing wine has gradually attained cult status among the few who have been lucky enough to taste it, and very little of it is made in the first place, so prepare your fact that it will be difficult to locate (in any vintage).  Nevertheless, it is well worth a search, and well worth the price as well--difficult though that may be to believe for those who have never tasted an outstanding rendition of the Mencia grape from the remote region of Bierzo.  But tasting is believing, and the 2005 is a very strong vintage for Paixar, if not quite as intricate as the 2001, 2004, or 2008.  It shows very complex aromatics, medium-plus body, very deep and persistent flavor for a wine that isn't conspicuously heavy, and a wonderfully mineral-driven finish.  There's still a bit of overt oak in the mid-palate and finish, but it is loosening up nicely, and the fruit remains quite fresh and expressive, so you'd be well advised to hold onto this for just another year or two if you've only got a bottle or two -- though I hasten to add that having even a bottle or two would make you a very lucky person.
94 Michael Franz Apr 1, 2014

Paixar, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencía 2011 ($80, Grapes of Spain): Long-time readers of Wine Review Online will likely be aware that Paixar is among my favorite wines from anywhere in the world, so it will come as no surprise to them that I admire the release from 2011.  I've tasted every vintage ever made, though 2001 was the first release, so that's no great feat.  I only mention this because the wines made to this point are notably different from one another -- some much firmer in their youth, others more open in fruit profile and softer in texture, with more or less wood showing overtly.  With that context set, the 2011 has softened more rapidly than I expected when I last tasted it two and a half years ago, and is now certainly among the softest and most approachable of all releases of Paixar.  It has soaked up virtually all of its overt oak, and is now entirely delicious.  For sheer complexity and power, it isn't quite up to the very best vintages of this wine (2001, 2004 and 2008), but it makes up for that with wonderfully generous flavors and lots of little nuances that emerge with time in the glass.  For those who would like to buy an absolutely top-notch rendition of Mencía from Bierzo without waiting for years to have it open enough to be enjoyed, this would be a great choice.  Naturally, it would be a matter of mere speculation for me to guess when this wine will be at its absolute apogee, and I've already admitted that it has opened more quickly than I expected.  However, I can say with certainty that it will last for years, based on the fact that I've never tasted a single bottle of Paixar from any vintage (including the very great 2001) that has shown any signs of cracking up.
94 Michael Franz Feb 28, 2017

Pittacum, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Aurea” 2006 ($52, Aveníu):  This is the best vintage of this wine that I’ve ever tasted, and the first to show a level of quality and complexity akin to the stars of Bierzo, Paixar and the top bottlings from Descendientes de J. Palacios.  It is very expressive even when first opened, showing ripe fruit recalling dark cherries and blackberries as well as very attractive accents of cocoa powder, vanilla and woodsmoke.  Medium-plus in body, it is rich and viscous but not heavy, with lift from ripe acidity and just a little added grip from the combination of wood and grape tannins.  The finish is balanced and symmetrical as it tails off, and it tails off only very slowly.  Extremely impressive. 94 Michael Franz Nov 13, 2012

Tilenus, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia La Florida 2010 ($20, Classic Wines): This outstanding wine has the dark cherry red-blue color typical of Mencía.  With its delicate floral overtones, vivid fruit flavors, hints of licorice and smoky overtones it’s a rewarding wine indeed.  Fleshy, persistent and elegant, it has the sort of well-defined tannins that make it a terrific wine to serve with steak or lamb, or hearty dishes such as moussaka.
94 Marguerite Thomas May 9, 2017

Bodegas Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Finca Luna Beberide 2021 ($30, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero): I know this producer very well, having conducted one full visit and two fairly brief ones, including a brief one earlier this year.  Four bottlings of Mencía are released, and this is the second one up, with a label that was formerly called “Finca La Cuesta,” or so it seems by appearance and placement in the lineup.  That detail hardly matters, as this 2021 rendition is wonderfully open and delicious, without seeming overly developed, fruity or obvious in any way.  That is not an easy result to achieve with any grape variety — Mencía included.  Indeed, I can’t recall ever experienced this wine showing such complexity and completeness at this early stage in any previous vintage.  Classic black cherry fruit scents and flavors form the core, as one would expect from this variety, but there are little flickers of red and blue fruits as well, and just the most subtle touch of oak imaginable (by which I mean, a suggestion more of oxygen interchange from a semi-porous vessel rather than just steel tanks).  Savory notes are already emerging alongside the fruit, yet this doesn’t seem in danger of cracking up anytime soon.  Any danger posed by this wine is to 95% of the $30 Pinot Noir around the world, which is easily bested by this wine, which is roughly similar in weight to most New World renditions but more complex and more versatile with food.  Yes, that’s a big statement.  Try the wine and put me to the test on this.       
93 Michael Franz Oct 10, 2023

Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Tares P3” 2004 ($78, Classical Wines): Fresher with better balance that the 2003 P3, the 2004 P3 is a real success.  It has the same alluring nose and delivers the same combination of power and plushness, but without a hint of over-extraction or over-ripeness. 93 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) "Daniel" 2003 ($49, Grapes of Spain): This is one of several new wines in a series named after importer Aurelio Cabestrero's young son. It is intense and structured, but shows plenty of deep, sweet fruit to counterbalance the oak and tannins. The fruit notes are quite complex, including red and black cherries and red raspberries, with undertones of smoke, spices and subtle vanilla. Displaying many layers and facets of aroma, flavor and texture, this as interesting as it is downright delicious. 93 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencía "Art" 2013 ($55, Grapes of Spain):  Luna Beberide's "Art" bottling of Mencía is always very good, even if over-shadowed by Paixar, another wine made at this bodega but in collaboration with Eduardo and Alberto García.  I opened the 2013 releases of these two wines at the same time, and at the very outset, "Art" was just as appealing in overall terms, which is pretty damned impressive.  Quite deeply colored (actually slightly more deeply pigmented to my eye than the Paixar), it showed complex aromas and layered flavors with very good integration of oak.  Light mineral tinges in the finish were very appealing, and there was more than enough persistence to the fruit flavors (black plum and Bing cherry) to outlast the tannins and wood.  The Paixar surpassed "Art" when its minerality kicked into high gear with aeration, ultimately becoming considerably more intricate, but this is still a terrific wine that will be much easier to find and $30 less expensive.  If you see it, buy it.
93 Michael Franz Jul 25, 2017

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia "Art" 2020 ($65, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Of all the vintages of this wine that I’ve tasted (and I believe I’ve tasted all of them), this 2020 comes the closest to Luna Beberide’s flagship “Paixar” release (drawing dead even when I turned from sensory evaluation to scoring, but with Paixar pulling ahead the next day after holding up extremely well overnight).  “Art” is crafted from very old vines (70 to 80 years) growing at high elevations (2,000 to 2,700 feet), and the physical density of the finished wine shows the resultingly low yields.  Oak is quite muted in this release, giving the wine a soft, rounded feel without lacking freshness, and likewise without lacking for tannic spine.  In both texture and flavor, this is much more inviting and evolved than its vintage suggests, and is already extremely enjoyable, though it will easily improve for another five years — at an absolute minimum.            
93 Michael Franz Apr 5, 2022

Pittacum, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Aurea” 2006 ($52, AV Brands): Although I have reservations about the wood balance in this producer’s entry-level bottling from 2006, this high-end bottling is utterly convincing and delicious.  It is concentrated, rich and intense in flavor, but soft in texture.  Moreover, while the tannins are ripe and fine in grain, the wine still seems structured, with the fine tannins combining with subtle wood accents to shape and firm the wine’s finish without drying it.  Black cherry fruit notes are deep and pure in flavor, with accents of smoke, cocoa powder and dried herbs lending additional complexity.  Impressive! 93 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2009

Pitticum, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Petit” Rosé 2016 ($10, Baron Francois): This irresistible rosé (made from 95% Mencia and 5% Godello) is bursting with fresh ripe fruit counterbalanced by bouncy acidity.  Its most distinguishing -- though subtle -- feature may be the thread of saline minerality that gives it exceptional character and makes you want to keep refilling your glass.  This exuberant pink wine is one of the most perfectly equilibrated and delightful rosés that I’ve sampled in a long time.  It makes a great aperitif wine and can accompany a range of foods, including anything with ham, and light pasta dishes (try it with pasta vongole or spaghetti al pesto for example).
93 Marguerite Thomas Jun 20, 2017

Veronica Ortega, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Quite” 2019 ($25, ZRS Wines):  This 2019 Bierzo "Quite" is 100% Mencía from one of Bierzo's rising stars — Veronica Ortega.  If you love Pinot Noir and other aromatic reds like Gamay and northern Rhône Syrah, then Mencía is worth investigating.  As you bring the glass to your nose, you will be greeted by an enticing fragrance of red berries, violets, and spice.  The palate is lush, with round tannins and notes of kirsch, wild raspberry, blackcurrant, dried herbs, and black olives.  This dynamic winemaker and intriguing grape have created an intoxicating wine you cannot put down.      
93 Miranda Franco Aug 22, 2023

Casar de Burbia, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Hombros” 2012 ($28, Precio PVP): Sophisticated and nuanced rather than big and overbearing, “Hombros” has pungent aromas and flavors of dark fruits such as plums and berries.  The various vines that produce the fruit are between 50 and 100 years old. The region’s slate and clay soils contribute filaments of minerality to the overall personality of this engaging wine.   Any lover of red wine should be charmed by Hombros.
92 Marguerite Thomas May 9, 2017

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Villa de Corullón 2004 ($50, The Rare Wine Company): Despite packing lots of power, the Villa Corullón retains its elegance and class.  Made entirely from estate grapes grown in vineyards scattered throughout the village, it has added spice and minerality complemented by freshness of fruit.  Slightly tarry elements appear in the finish.  Still young and tightly wound, it needs a few years to unfold. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2009 ($50, Grapes of Spain):  This is a delicious rendition of Mencia from a leading producer of this terrific grape variety from northwestern Spain.  The only other bottling of this that I’ve ever tasted was from the 2007 vintage, and whereas that wine showed a rather hard, short finish, this 2009 is wonderfully supple and seductive, with gorgeous fruit recalling both red and black cherries.  Medium-bodied but full in flavor, with restrained oak that lends just enough spice and tannin to frame the wine without drying the finish, this will work beautifully at the table with anything from seared tuna to red meats. 92 Michael Franz Jun 14, 2011

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencía Finca la Cuesta 2015 ($22, Grapes of Spain):  I'm quite sure that I've tasted every vintage of Finca la Cuesta ever made at Luna Beberide, and there's no question in my mind that this is the best of all of them.  In fact, it was as good as some vintages as Luna Beberide's "Art" bottling of Mencía, which is a wine that rings up at more than twice this price.  As an aside, lest you conclude that I've lost my critical edge, the 2015 regular, un-oaked "LB" bottling of Mencía was very disappointing, especially in view of this being a vintage that winemakers in Bierzo are quite excited about.  There's always a chance that I had an unrepresentative bottle of 2015 LB, so I'll be looking for another bottle to try.  What you should be looking for is this terrific Finca la Cuesta, which is an object lesson in Mencía's uncanny ability be be fresh and bright while also showing real depth and guts.  The faint violet aromatic topnote is lovely, and subtle scents of spices also lend interest.  The wine is really medium-bodied, but "punches above its weight" with excellent fruit intensity and an impressively long finish.  For $22, this is undoubtedly one of the strongest values I've tasted during 2017, and a wine that I'd pour with pride in my home regardless of who was at my table.  Indeed, King Felipe VI, should you drop by, I promise to crack open a bottle of this for you.
92 Michael Franz Jul 25, 2017

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Moncerbal 2005 ($100, The Rare Wine Company): From a higher perch with rockier soil, the Moncerbal comes across as more of a 'mountain' wine than the San Martín.  Cherry-like flavors fight through firm, pure minerality.  Its hard edge, apparent at this stage, needs time to soften and allow its true complexity to shine.  Judging from a glorious and beautifully developed 2001 Moncerbal tasted at this same time, I would cellar this wine for at least another five years.  This wine and the San Martín offer dramatic example of the importance of vineyard site even in this small area.
91 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Bembibre” 2004 ($46, Classical Wines): Brighter with better uplifting acidity than the 2003 Bembibre, the 2004 is nonetheless more awkward at this young stage.  A captivating smoky, earthy nose mixed with tar and pepper in the finish suggests it will evolve nicely, and even after just 30 minutes in the glass, it softens.  Give it a few more years to settle down. 91 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Finca la Cuesta 2007 ($22, Grapes of Spain): The Mencia grape can produce terrific wines in Bierzo, and Luna Beberide, a leading producer in the region, has scored a major success with this new bottling.  Medium-bodied, it shows a wonderful balance between delicacy and depth of flavor, with lovely notes of dark cherries that are bolstered by wonderfully ripe, fine-grained tannins.  Very classy stuff. 91 Michael Franz Sep 15, 2009

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia Finca Luna Beberide 2019 ($30, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is a serious rendition of Mencía from Bierzo sourced from 50-60 year-old vines that shows the spicy, toasty, tannic effects of 10 months in used French barrels.  Tasting the wine before checking the oak regimen, I’d have guessed that there was a portion of new wood involved, or that the sheer duration of barrel maturation was longer.  In any case, though the wine seems quite notably oaky when the cork is first pulled, it comes together fairly readily with aeration, and the oak balance seems well done before long.  There’s a very attractive savory layer to this wine that isn’t attributable to oak and probably not to age, either, as this 2019 remains quite young at this stage.  Whatever the source of this savory side to the wine, it lends a lot of complexity and interest, and though the wine remains medium-bodied, there’s more depth and length of flavor than weight in this wine.  That’s a great virtue at the table, though this can also be sipped with pleasure on its own after a vigorous decanting, and would be nice with a wide range of tapas.            
91 Michael Franz Apr 5, 2022

Merayo , Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2014 ($9, David Bowler): The Mencia grape, which is found primarily in the northwestern regions of Spain, is gaining traction among consumers.  If you aren’t sure what the Mencia grape offers, this attractive example from Merayo is a wine that expresses the purity of Mencia without any distraction from oak or other wines blended in.  Macerated and fermented in stainless steel tanks, it is intensely aromatic, with a medium body and vibrant fresh berry flavors.  You would be hard pressed to find a better red wine in this price range.
91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 20, 2017

Merayo, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2014 ($9, David Bowler): The Mencía grape, which is found primarily in the northwestern regions of Spain, is gaining traction among consumers.  If you aren’t sure what the Mencia grape offers, this attractive example from Merayo is a wine that expresses the purity of Mencía without any distraction from oak or other wines blended in.  Macerated and fermented in stainless steel tanks, it is intensely aromatic, with a medium body and vibrant fresh berry flavors.  You would be hard pressed to find a better red wine in this price range.
91 Marguerite Thomas May 9, 2017

Pittacum, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2007 ($20, Aveníu Brands):  Bierzo is one of those rediscovered wine regions in Spain where vintners are showing new appreciation for old vines.  When the Mencia grape, now proven by DNA analysis to be unrelated to Cabernet Franc, is grown for quality rather than quantity it you get intense flavors at a reasonable price.  Witness this handsome wine with dark ruby color, red and black berry fruit with wisps of violet and dusty mineral notes.  It has balancing acidity and ripe tannins that make it a fine match for lamb chops or grilled chorizo. 91 Rebecca Murphy Aug 21, 2012

Pittacum, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2007 ($24, Aveníu):  This is an excellent rendition of the Mencia grape variety from Bierzo, which is very nearly the only place in the world that is home to this world-class cultivar.  The wine is medium-bodied but full of aroma and flavor, with fresh but ripe dark cherry fruit braced by moderate oak that lends a subtly spicy backnote.  The texture is rounded but still structured, making for easy enjoyment right now but still promising several years of additional development. 91 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2012

Art…by Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) 2007 ($55, Grapes of Spain):  This is the first rendition of this wine that I’ve tasted, and though it is quite good, readers are forewarned that is a highly structured wine with enough oak to require extended ageing to come into optimal balance.  Nevertheless, there’s plenty of fruit to let that balance occur in time, and there’s enough acidity to keep the wine fresh as it ages.  Muscular and yet not remotely over-ripe, it shows deep, persistent flavors in which dark berry and cherry notes predominate. 90 Michael Franz Mar 29, 2011

Bodegas Adriá – Vega Montán, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2009 ($13, Classical Wines):  This is an exceptional over-achiever at this price level, and an excellent wine it its own right quite regardless of price.  Medium-bodied, it is fulled with delicious fruit notes recalling dark cherries, along with well-measured structure that is provided by fresh acidity and fine-grained tannin.  Fresh and light- to medium-bodied, it will prove very versatile at the table because it is so flavorful and able to punch above its weight. 90 Michael Franz Nov 9, 2010

Casar de Burbia, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Mencia 2006 ($25, Classical Wines): This is an important rendition of Mencia (a potentially extraordinary grape variety) from Bierzo (an emerging region that might well shake up the ranks of Spain's top appellations).  To date, a problem for Bierzo has been that it was sending us tasty but unremarkable wines made from valley floor vineyards or, at the other extreme, amazing but rare and expensive wines made from old vines planted on steeply sloping vineyards at upper elevations.  This wine has excellent concentration and depth, but rings up at a reasonable price.  The dark cherry fruit is dense and very expressive, but there is a lot of grape and wood tannin, so you'll need to match this with food bearing some dietary fat to buffer its initial astringency or plan to age it for several years.  Either method will net you a wonderful wine and a taste of one of Spain's most exciting resources. 90 Michael Franz Feb 10, 2009

Castro Ventosa, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencía “El Castro de Valtuille” Joven 2019 ($18, Boutique Wine Collection):  If you haven't tasted Spain's native Mencía grape yet, this wine from the hands of a master like Raul Perez, winemaker at Castro Ventosa, is a great place to start.  His Bierzo Mencía is beautifully concentrated with tart red berry flavors and notes of pepper and hickory smoke that carry through to a long, mineral-driven finish.  Tight tannins and racy acidity suggest aging potential, a rarity for reds at this price point.       
90 Miranda Franco Oct 4, 2022

Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Tares P3” 2003 ($78, Classical Wines): The P3, from a single plot of 100-year-old vines, has gorgeous aromas of minerals and black fruit.  Plush and powerful, it's nonetheless a graceful wine.  The heat of the vintage probably explains a slightly stewed character to the fruit, but it still retains brightness in the finish. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Bembibre” 2003 ($46, Classical Wines): Made from 60-plus-year-old vines, this big and juicy wine is remarkably well balanced for a product of the scorching 2003 vintage.  Nuances of tar, meaty overtones and black fruit are combined in this exotically flavored wine that is terrific to drink now. 90 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Finca la Cuesta” 2008 ($22, Grapes of Spain):  Luna Beberide turns out terrific renditions of the Mencia grape from Bierzo, which is definitely one of the most exciting wines issuing from the surpassingly exciting wine country of Spain.  It features pure, fresh fruit recalling black cherries above all, along with subtle toast and spice accents and a nice dash of minerality in the finish.  Delicious in a medium-bodied format, this will prove extremely versatile with food, as it will stand up to robust meat dishes without overpowering more delicate ones. 90 Michael Franz Apr 27, 2010

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (León, Spain) Mencia 2019 ($18, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Always among the most delicious and versatile wines I taste each year for fewer than $20, this performs very well again in the 2019 vintage.  Medium-bodied, it offers more flavor impact than one would expect based on its weight, which is one of the keys to its versatility with food — or without food, as a stand-alone sipper.  The fruit aromas and flavors recall red berries and black cherries with subtle savory accents, and the finish is freshened by nicely balanced acidity that never turns tart.  This will pair up beautifully with anything from grilled fish to poultry dishes or lighter meats like pork or veal, and even with spicy lamb or beef dishes.            
90 Michael Franz Aug 10, 2021

Pago de Valdetruchas, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Los Cerezales” 2008 ($22, Grapes of Spain):  This is a very impressive wine that performs well above expectations at this price.  Made entirely from Mencia sourced from 75 year old grapes in a single vineyard, it shows good concentration and depth of flavor, yet remains just medium-bodied and hence quite versatile with food.  Notes of dark cherries predominate, but there are also nice accents of spices and smoke, as well as a pleasantly meaty, savory undertone. 90 Michael Franz Oct 19, 2010

Pazo de Arribi, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2007 ($18, Classical Wines):  This soft, juicy, succulent rendering of the Mencia grape is wonderfully immediate in its appeal, and yet there is nothing obvious or grapey about it, and with nice spicy, smoky, savory accents, it can prove enduringly interesting for hours.  Medium-bodied but full of flavor, this is a highly convincing wine at a surprisingly affordable price. 90 Michael Franz Oct 19, 2010

Pittacum, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Mencía 2006 ($24, AV Brands): I have to confess that I know little about Mencía as a varietal, save for the fact that it is the main red grape grown in Bierzo in northwestern Spain.  Tasting this wine makes me want to learn more!  It’s juicy and exuberant, with blackberry and bright raspberry fruit flavors, enhanced by a slightly weedy undertone that adds intrigue--not unlike good Cabernet Franc.  Medium-bodied, it has fairly firm tannins and zesty acidity, suggesting good aging potential.  All in all, delicious--and intriguing. 90 Paul Lukacs Aug 11, 2009

Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) "Baltos" 2005 ($15, Classical Wines): Made from slightly older vines and aged briefly in American and French oak barriques, the Baltos is a more muscular version of Dominio de Tares's Albares.  The oak doesn't dominate; rather it imparts an attractive creaminess that balances the mild tannic structure.  It's another good value. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Losada Viños de Finca, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Losada” 2007 ($20, Eric Solomon Selections):  Bierzo is an up and coming DO in the northwestern part of Spain where the Mencia grape reigns.  Made entirely from Mencia, this wine delivers a marvelous combination of earth, herbs and fruit, supported nicely by moderate tannins. Black cherry-like acidity completes the balanced picture, making for a lovely sweet/savory combination. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 13, 2010

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2009 ($17, Grapes of Spain):  This wine is always a textbook example of the pure, fresh style of Mencia from Bierzo, and the 2009 rendition is certainly in keeping with this profile.  It features plush fruit recalling both red and black cherries, with fine balance between fruit, acidity and tannin.  There’s no wood influence to speak of, just vivid fruit with precise flavors and a persistent finish.  The wine’s fruitiness would make it a perfect partner for lightly spicy meats with a bit of charring from the grill. 89 Michael Franz Apr 26, 2011

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2009 ($16, Grapes of Spain):  This very consistent wine looks especially good in the 2009 vintage, showing delicious primary fruit notes recalling both red and black cherries.  There’s just enough fine-grained tannin to frame the fruit and provide structure without drying the finish, and a hint of spicy, savory nuances that tail off slowly along with the aftertaste of the fruit flavors.  There’s not a trace of oak evident in either the aromas and flavors.  Delicious, and very versatile with foods, especially grilled white meats 89 Michael Franz Mar 29, 2011

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2021 ($19, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  If the Mencía grape variety is new to you, you’ll need to change that, and this wine provides an excellent place to start.  The variety has been essentially landlocked for centuries, and has only recently entered the flow of global wine commerce, but it can make indisputably wonderful wines in a fairly broad range of styles.  This is a very fresh and simple rendition made from fruit that’s barely been off the vines for half a year.  Uncomplicated by oak, it is juicy and bright, with red berry notes predominating on the palate, with energetic acidity driving the finish.          
89 Michael Franz Apr 5, 2022

Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) "Albares" 2005 ($11, Classical Wines): This 100% unoaked Mencia, made especially for the U.S. market, is a terrific buy. With lovely aromatics, fruit and little tannin, it has a Beaujolais-like style and sensibility, but with more substance. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Pago de Valdetruchas, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2009 ($16, Grapes of Spain):  With pure fruit that packs a lot of flavor onto a relatively modest frame, this wine is reminiscent of a fine young vintage of, say, Chinon or Saint-Joseph in general stylistic profile.  However, its specific characteristics--fresh, bright cherry and berry fruit with both red and black notes--speak quite specifically of Mencia from Bierzo, which is usually marked by distinctively zesty acidity and fine-grained tannin that makes the wines in this younger, lighter style delightful to sip on their own but also marvelously versatile with food.  88 Michael Franz Apr 26, 2011

Pittacum, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia 2006 ($24, AV Brands): This is a very nice rendering of Mencia, which is already a star in Spain and shows potential to join the world’s ranks of outstanding cultivar.  The problem in this case is that the wine’s relatively delicate fruit notes are obscured by an aggressive overlay of vanillin oak, which proves distracting and overly prominent.  One can see the black cherry fruit poke itself out from the oak after a bit of airing, so perhaps the balance will be rectified over time with additional bottle ageing. 88 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2009

Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Mencia "Baltos" 2005 ($19, Classical Wines): Mencia is a world-class grape variety that remains little known around the world, though the high quality wines that are now being made from it in the rugged region of Bierzo are destined to change that before long.  Medium-bodied, with delicious fruit recalling both red and black cherries, this rendition is accented with appropriately subtle accents of smoke and spices from oak.  With bright acidity and fine-grained tannins lending structure to the fruit, this will pair very well with moderately robust dishes based on duck, pork or veal. 87 Michael Franz Mar 18, 2008

Dominio de Tares, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) "Exaltos" 2004 ($27, Classical Wines): Bigger still than either the Albares or Baltos bottlings from Dominio de Tares, the Exaltos has attractive rusticity to boot.  At this stage, the American oak is still apparent and the wine would benefit with another year or so of age to allow it to come together. 87 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Mencia 2007 ($13, Grapes of Spain): Very young, and still a bit grapey as a result, this wine offers a delicious taste of the primary fruit character of Mencia, one of Spain's most interesting red grape varieties.  The grapey character subsides with aeration, so you'd be wise to decant this wine prior to serving.  It shows lots of exuberant dark cherry fruit with just a hint of spiciness, and would be a fine companion for grilled pork chops. 87 Michael Franz Apr 29, 2008

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) “Pétalos del Bierzo” 2006 ($23, The Rare Wine Company): Made from purchased grapes grown in villages neighboring Corullón as well as from Palacios' vineyards, this has a rich combination of floral notes and stony minerality supported by fine tannins.  It carries the 14% alcohol effortlessly.  A wonderful introduction to the Palacios style of Bierzo, it's a terrific value. Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Petalos” 2018 ($20, Rare Wine Company):  Álvaro Palacios, who oversees Descendientes de J. Palacios in Bierzo, is drawing the attention to Mencía that it deserves.  The 2018 vintage of "Petalos" is well concentrated with rounded cherry, blueberry, and wood spice aromas and flavors.  It is drinking beautifully with a smooth and persistent finish.  Very hard to resist at this price.    
93 Miranda Franco Sep 1, 2020

Bodega del Abad, Bierzo DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Abad Dom Bueno” 2016 ($16):  Beirzo, located in the northwest corner of Castilla y León bordering Galicia and Asturias, is home to the Mencía grape, from which this wine is made.  With is weight and concentration, it’s a well-priced example of what that variety is capable of delivering.  A touch of oak still shows at this stage, but it is not intrusive nor overdone.  Tannins are noticeable, but not intrusive in this hearty wine, which is an easy choice for robust winter fare.       
89 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2020

Comando G, Castilla y Leon (Spain) Garnacha “Las Iruelas” 2020 ($225, Eric Solomon Selections, European Cellars):  Within the Garnacha universe, very few manage to coax such finesse from this variety and deliver a world-class product.  Founded by Fernando García and Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi, Comando G has emerged as one of Spain’s most celebrated producers and redefined the possibilities of Garnacha that reflect how distinctive the wines can be from the Gredos mountain range.  The Comando G team looked for inspiration from France from the legendary Châteauneuf-du-Pape releases from Château Rayas, made entirely of Grenache, and from Domaine Gramenon, a producer in the Côtes du Rhône.  The 2020 Las Iruelas comes from a plot of 60+ year old, head-pruned vines planted at an elevation of over 1000 meters above sea level.  It is ridiculously fragrant, redolent of rose petals and black cherries, with a hint of strawberry.  A savory edge on the palate balances the fruit.  The Las Iruelas is an ethereal example of mountain Garnacha but with freshness, verve, depth, and complexity.            
97 Miranda Franco Feb 20, 2024

Vitícola Mentridana, Castilla y Leon (Spain) Grenache “Cantos del Diablo” 2020 ($147, European Cellars):  Vitícola Mentridana is a family and friends project from Dani Landi (Comando G) and Curro Bareño (Ca' di Mat and Fedellos).  The Cantos del Diablo is a silky and elegant varietal of Grenache, emphasizing the savory side of Grenache instead of the rich, high-octane fruit.  It offers a delicious combination of red cherries, wild strawberry, pomegranate, wild herbs, black pepper, tobacco leaf, and hints of olive.  The fine-grained tannins make for a silken mouthfeel, but enough acidity keeps the wine lifted and bright on the palate.  As Comando G is getting more expensive, the Cantos del Diablo still represents good value.  It is delicious now and will be even better in five years.          
94 Miranda Franco Jan 2, 2024

Comando G, Castilla y León (Spain) Grenache “Navatalgordo” 2022 ($65, Eric Solomon Selection, European Cellars):  I have consistently expressed my deep admiration for this producer.  Comando G, a dynamic duo of self-proclaimed “Garnachistas," is dedicated to crafting exceptional single-vineyard Grenache wines sourced from rugged mountaintop vineyards across Sierra de Gredos.  The 2022 vintage is the first release of Navatalgordo, a new village wine in the Comando G range.  This wine bursts with flavors of lush black cherry, strawberry, damp violets, olives, and baking spices.  Its richness and complexity are evident as it glides over the palate, showcasing ultra-smooth tannins and vibrant acidity.   However, what stands out more than anything is the luscious feel and lively energy that make this wine an incredible delight.        
96 Miranda Franco Mar 19, 2024

Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) Reserva 2004 ($60, Grapes of Spain): Don't miss this wine when it reaches our shores.  A wonderfully balanced combination of exotic smoky elements, bright fruit, a patina of oak and fine structure makes this wine a delight to taste, and more importantly, to drink. 93 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) Tinto 2000 ($50, Grapes of Spain): A blend of roughly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Tempranillo, this Spanish gem offers multilayered aromas and flavorscherry and dark berry fruit, with echoes of dark chocolate, leather, dried herbs, and much more. Complete and so extremely satisfying, it should drink well for a good decade more, and is well worth buying now to save for a special occasion to come. 93 Michael Franz Apr 26, 2006

Bodegas Sepa 21, Castilla y León (Spain) "Hito" 2014 ($16): Full disclosure:  I gave this wine extra points for value, because it would be hard to do better at the price.  It delivers a marvelous combination of black cherry-like fruitiness -- not too much -- and a slate-like minerality.  The winemaking team has resisted the temptation to over extract the flavors and tannins or mask them with oak.  The result is a classy wine at a fabulous price.  It would be perfect for drinking this fall and winter.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 17, 2015

Abadia Retuerta, Castilla y León (Spain) "Selección Especial" 2006 ($20, Kobrand): Located just outside of Spain’s prestigious Ribera del Duero region, Abadia Retuerta has been producing stylish, well-price wines since 1996 when the pharmaceutical company Novartis finally--a decade after its purchase--completed replanting the vineyards and finished their a state-of-the-art gravity flow winery.  Although they produce many single vineyard wines, the Selección Especial is a blend from the entire estate and representative of their style.  A blend of Tempranillo (75%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), and Merlot, it delivers ripe but not over-the-top black fruit, harmonized with just the right amount of toasty oak.  Subtle chocolate-like elements add to its complexity.  Glossy texture makes it even more charming and adds to its immediate appeal. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 1, 2009

Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) “Tierras de Luna” 2002 ($30, Grapes of Spain): A richly-textured blend of 50% Mencia, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Merlot, this wine offers an enticing bouquet reminiscent of a cigar box filled with blackberry jam, followed by deep fruit flavors and a spicy finish.  Well-structured, with firm pliant tannins, it certainly can be cellared for a few years, but is delicious right now. 90 Paul Lukacs Jun 5, 2007

Tridente, Castilla y León (Spain) Tempranillo 2019 ($16, Gil Family Estates):  From the Gil Family Estates’ Bodega Tridente comes a better-than-it-has-to-be 100% Tempranillo wine.  The grapes are from old vines of up to 100 years old, trained in the traditional vaso system, which means the vines support themselves on short trunks.  The 2019 grapes were hand-harvested and began fermentation in stainless steel, then are moved to French oak to finish fermentation.  This dark ruby colored wine is showing fresh and spicy cherry, blackberry aromas and flavors.  It is light bodied and finishes with bright acidity and chewy tannins.  Serve it with a burger, a selection of cured meats, or a chunk of Manchego.        
90 Rebecca Murphy Sep 12, 2023

Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) Reserva 2003 ($50, Grapes of Spain): The exotic complexity of Mencia is more apparent in this blend.  Attractive creamy oak is still evident, which is not surprising since the wine spent 2-plus-years in barrel.  Polished, with good structure, this wine needs another year or two to come together. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Luna Beberide, Castilla y León (Spain) “Tierras de Luna” 2003 ($30, Grapes of Spain): Inclusion of Cabernet and Merlot in this blend gives the wine a slightly New Worldish style, but the rich complexity imparted by Mencia comes through loud and clear.  Good power and remarkable acidity and lift- -- considering the number of flabby wines from 2003 -- equals an excellent choice for hearty fare this fall. 88 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2007

Buscado, Castilla y León (Spain) Garnacha 2016 ($10, Quintessential Wines):  Garnacha, aka Grenache, is an alluring red wine that pairs especially well with grilled meats.  So, if you’re looking for a delicious yet inexpensive red for a backyard barbecue, you will find a lot to like in this ten buck Garnacha from Spain.  The aroma of ripe red berries dominates, the tannins are supple, and the price is right.  
86 Robert Whitley Feb 19, 2019

Museum Real, Cigales (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Reserva 2002 ($25, Wildman): Rich, ripe fruit (think cherries and red berries) distinguish this bold, forthright red that would merit a higher score if the smell and taste of oak wasn't so blatant.  Perhaps the wood will calm down with more time in bottle; but as the wine is already four years old,
I wouldn't place any bets. 85 Paul Lukacs Dec 12, 2006

Parra Jimenez, La Mancha (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Graciano 2010 ($11, Parra Family):  Parra Jimenez has tamed Graciano, a tannic and dense grape sometimes used in Rioja, without eviscerating it.  An intriguing mixture of fruit and earth flavors, it still delivers dense explosive black fruit flavors.  But there’s also a savory, almost chewy component.  Its succulence would be a good choice for grilled meat.  And you gotta love the price. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 5, 2012

Vega Sicilia, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2002 ($350): Arguably the single most famous and sought-after wine of Spain, and indisputably the house that defines historical greatness in Ribera del Duero (since 1864), Vega Sicilia’s wines are very expensive and hard to acquire.  With that said, however, it is worth remembering that you will live to have birthdays and anniversaries with zeros in the second digit and -- hopefully -- rather large numbers up front.  This is a wine for just such an occasion.  It still shows beautiful, very solid color at 14 years of age, and one’s experience of the wine only gets better from there.  Extremely expressive aromatically, it shows topnotes of spicy oak, but with savory notes and suggestions of both red and black fruit showing nearly as prominently.  Medium-bodied, with much deeper and longer flavors than would be guessed based on the wine’s weight, this shows flavors of great intricacy, with less oak showing on the palate than the nose.  The tannins are exceptionally fine-grained, but sufficiently abundant to offer firm structure and assure at least another decade of positive development.  Based roughly 80% on Tempranillo (known as Tinto Fino locally) with the balance made up of Bordeaux varieties, this is already a wine of great beauty, but one that will still unfold additional layers in years to come.
98 Michael Franz Aug 23, 2016

Astrales, Ribera del Duero (Spain) 2014 ($65, Grapes of Spain):  In a lineup of 12 exemplary Spanish wines that I showed during a class last week, this was the consensus winner.  Although this is a “big” wine in terms of concentration, depth of flavor and sheer flavor impact, it also shows purity and class at every sensory point from the first whiff to the last whisper of flavor in the long finish.  There’s a notable dose of spicy, toasty oak, but it is perfectly proportioned in relation to the overall weight of the wine and its intensity of fruit.  Soft flavors or dark berries and black cherries are totally seductive, and at its current stage of development, there’s also a savory undertone beginning to emerge from bottle aging.  I reviewed this in mid-summer of 2017, scoring it at 93.  As things have turned out, my score was too low, as the wines has exceeded my already-high expectations for it.  Mea Culpa.  This is a complete and obviously terrific wine. 
95 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2018

Bodega Alejandro Fernández, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Tinto Pesquera Reserva 2010 ($49, Classical Wines from Spain): Commonly just known as Pesquera, this 2010 Reserva from Ribera del Duero expands on that wine’s dazzling reputation.  It has marvelous minerality, penetration and spice, all wrapped in finely polished tannins that convey a sumptuous texture.  There’s an almost magical combination of herbal nuances, earth and dark fruit seamlessly intertwined.  Like all great wine, its stature is apparent immediately, but it grows as it sits in the glass.  Resist the temptation to drink it now with a simply grilled steak, but rather find a place in your cellar where you won’t be tempted by it for a decade.
95 Michael Apstein Nov 25, 2014

Finca Torremilanos, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “El Roble Viejo” 2007 ($120, Grapes of Spain):  If you are looking for a serious gift wine or a holiday splurge for yourself, your ship has just come in.  This remarkable rendition of Tempranillo has it all:  Complex, expressive aromas; outstanding density and depth of flavor; admirable balance between fruit and tannin and acidity and oak, and a finish that just won’t quit.  Yet what is most unusual is that its sensory trajectory runs against the typical pattern by which prodigious wines start out tight and hard and loosen with air.  In this case, the wine is marvelously open and soft right out of the starting gate, and surprisingly shows more structure and definition over time after opening.  It never quite turns tight or hard, but it shows its seriousness only after showing its charms--which are phenomenal.  This is the best bottle of wine I tasted from Spain in 2011, and that’s out of a pool of about more than 700, including some that were notably more expensive than this one. 95 Michael Franz Dec 13, 2011

J. C. Delgado y Otros, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Neo Christina” 2005 ($71, Grapes of Spain):  This is a special version of Neo bottled as a homage to the daughter of importer Aurelio Cabestrero, and it is phenomenally delicious.  The weight and basic fruit character is not particularly different than the regular 2005 release of Neo, so the distinction comes down more to the character of the oak influence, which is a little more assertive but extremely appealing, with subtle notes of woodsmoke and spices that work beautifully with the rich, ripe fruit flavors.  This will certainly improve for at least another five years.  However, if you buy multiple bottles you’d better not open any of them, because if you taste one, the rest of your stash will never last for five years. 95 Michael Franz Nov 9, 2010

Tinto Figuero, Ribera Del Duero (Castila y León, Spain) Tempranillo Viñas Viejas Family Selection 2014 ($68, Quintessential):  A bright, lively expression of Tempranillo that is focused on black currant, citrus like acidity and hints of dill and sweet brown spice.  There's some backbone here that a few years of cellaring will tame into an enticing fruit and spice driven wine that retains some youthful character.  Very food friendly -- try it with grilled beef or a bold sausage platter.
95 Rich Cook Dec 26, 2017

Abadía de San Quirce, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Finca Helena 2016 ($60):  This wine was sourced from a single site and announced its place in the lineup of three samples from the bodega by its ultra-expensive cork and individually numbered front label.  Made from 100% Tinta del País, it shows terrific quality in all respects from a vintage that isn’t a favorite of most winemakers in the region.  The oak is very classy in its restraint and character, lending topnotes of spices and a faint toasty scents, but nothing that verges over into overt vanilla or smoke.  The fruit is thus able to show itself, and it shows excellent purity with both black and red tones.  The wine’s weight and concentration are also quite classy, with enough heft to prove satisfying while still being light enough for the wine to display freshness and be very versatile with food.  Excellent fruit, beautifully wrought.  An impressive effort that doesn’t try too hard to impress.        
94 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Arrocal, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Maximo” 2005 ($115, Grapes of Spain):  It is pretty hard to live up to expectations when your name is “Maximo,” but this wine manages to do so.  The key to Max’s success is amazing freshness despite great ripeness and concentration, which is to say that the wine shows a remarkable brightness from abundant acidity which one wouldn’t expect to find in a wine of such sweetness and density.  The aromas and flavors show the classic black cherry and dark berry notes that predominate in Tempranillo grown in Ribera del Duero, which gets very warm in the height of the summer but very cool (even downright cold) during most nights.  There’s lots of spicy, smoky oak to firm the fruit and lend complexity, but the wine is clearly not over-oaked, as the fruit rides right through to assert itself at the end of the long, symmetrical finish.  Exceedingly tempting now, this seems built to really hit its peak in another 7 years or so.  Bloody impressive stuff. 94 Michael Franz Nov 16, 2010

Astrales, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2007 ($70, Grapes of Spain):  This outstanding wine shows Ribera del Duero at its best.  Dark in color and very seriously concentrated, it shows very expressive aromas and flavors recalling dark cherries and berries with accents of vanilla, woodsmoke, spices, and cocoa powder.  Rich and satisfying but nevertheless fresh and structured, it shows the sort of uncanny balance between opulence and restraint that the region’s best vintners can provide in a good year.  Enjoyable now, this will improve for another 5 years at a minimum and hold at a high level for at least 10. 94 Michael Franz Nov 23, 2010

Bodegas Arrocal, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Selección” 2014 ($40, Grapes of Spain):  Arrocal is a terrific bodega that turns out amazing Tempranillo (or Tinto Fino, as it is known locally) at multiple price levels in every vintage (not almost every vintage; every vintage).  I tasted through the entire lineup last summer, and have several reviews to publish soon, but this one deserves some press right now…after turning in the performance of the night at a blind tasting class of 12 wines from 12 countries a couple of weeks ago.  Although there were two incredible whites and a 13 year-old, $130 Napa Cab also in the lineup, this was the standout on account of impeccable purity and virtually perfect balance between fruit, acidity, wood and tannin.  It is so seamless and so obviously delicious that, when tasting it, you would never actually think of “fruit, acidity, wood and tannin.”  Only in retrospect might you reflect on those component parts, as the whole is so compellingly greater than the sum of those parts.  
94 Michael Franz Nov 19, 2019

Garmón, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2014 ($80, Grapes of Spain): This is the first release of this wine, which is a new project launched by the Garcia family (led by Mariano, Eduardo and Alberto), which sits atop the winemaking hierarchy in Spain with only the Palacios family within sight.  A plan to build a dedicated winery for the project is in the works, but for now, there's no doubting that this is an ultra-serious wine, as demonstrated by its very dense pigmentation, expressive aromatics, concentrated body, intense oak signature and very persistent finish.  Although another five years of cellaring will be required for this to fully unfold, it already shows excellent purity of fruit (Ribera del Duero's particular strength with Tempranillo) even under a lot of assertive wood notes, and shows lots of little nuances after sufficient airing.  Indeed, the wine was notably more complex rather than fading when re-tasted the day after opening, which is invariably a sign of excellent and as close to a guarantee of age-worthiness as one can find.  Certainly this can be enjoyed today with robust foods like grilled lamb, but this was built to bloom fully in 5-10 years.  Stay tuned...this will likely develop from an excellent to a great wine in years to come, and will also likely to be the first in a string of superb wines under this label.
94 Michael Franz Feb 28, 2017

J. C. Delgado y Otros, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Neo” 2005 ($69, Grapes of Spain):  When I first tasted the 2001 vintage of this wine on site in 2004, I thought I had found the best garage wine in Spain, and subsequent vintages have only solidified this opinion.  Perhaps the winery (which is housed in an abandoned mill) has been gussied up during the six years since my visit, or maybe the place still looks just as rough around the edges, but it has always been clear that this operation is all about quality in the wine.  The fruit is concentrated and almost meaty in its richness and density, yet there’s an alluring purity and freshness that keeps the wine from seeming overdone in any respect.  Spicy and smoky but not over-oaked, the balance of wood to fruit is ideal, and the winemaking shows respect for the terrific fruit at the wine’s core. 94 Michael Franz Nov 9, 2010

Los Astrales, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2012 ($65, Grapes of Spain): Technical director Eduardo Garcia turned in a terrific performance when crafting the 2012 Astrales, which shows virtually perfect balance and proportionality.  At three years of age, it is already quite complex and easy to enjoy, though there is not the slightest hint of premature development.  Layered aromas and flavors include notes of black cherry and blackberry along with accents recalling espresso bean, cocoa powder and baking spices.  What little oak is still showing displays itself in such a subtle manner that it seems more like an extension of the fruit’s complexity than a distinct element.  Rounded in texture and quite deep in flavor, the wine has enough definition and grip to work best with food, but the tannins are so fine-grained and polished in character that you’ll find yourself tempted to sip this on its own.  My strong sense (based on long experience) is that other reviewers tend to under-score this wine because it is actually the second-tier offering from Los Astrales, with the flagship bottling being a very old-vine, 100% new French oak offering under the proprietary name of “Christina.”  There’s no doubting that the Christina bottling is a truly sensational wine, but so too is this standard release, which is already irresistible but nevertheless sure to improve from at least five more years of cellaring.
94 Michael Franz Nov 24, 2015

Arrocal, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Selección” 2009 ($42, Grapes of Spain): Showing the sort of layered complexity and lavish richness that one would expect to find in a $75 wine rather than one ringing up for $42, this is a seriously sexy wine.  The fruit is perfectly ripened, with wonderful depth and length of flavor, yet the wine shows no hint of stewed character or over-extraction.  It has already absorbed so much of the oak from its 14 months of oak ageing that there’s virtually no overt note of wood in the aromas or flavors, and the sense of firmness from tannin is actually entirely welcome as a counter-balancing element to the lush fruit.  Completely convincing wine.
93 Michael Franz Dec 31, 2013

Astrales, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Christina” 2007 ($85, Grapes of Spain):  This is a terrific Ribera that shows lots of concentration with lots of fancy French oak, and yet there’s also a sense of grace and naturalness and even restraint to the wine, on account of it being very well integrated at this early stage in its development.  The fruit is open and generous, and the tannins are ripe and fine-grained, so you could either enjoy this now with robust foods or allow it to develop for another decade. 93 Michael Franz Mar 15, 2011

Bodegas J. C. Conde, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) "Neo" 2002 ($57, Grapes of Spain): This is a phenomenal accomplishment from the difficult 2002 vintage, and I'm convinced that other reviewers underscored the wine because they didn't believe that anything from 2002 should earn a score up into the 90s. Although this rendition doesn't have quite the concentration or length of the spectacular 2001 Neo (or the delicious debut release from 2000), the aromatic complexity of this 2002 is amazing, with alluring notes of ripe blackberries, bing cherries, cassis, woodsmoke, spices, vanilla, leather and toast. The appropriate way to adjust to the somewhat lighter body of the 2002 is to substitute a grilled veal chop for the grilled steak that would be best with the 2001, and that is all the adjustment you'll need to adore this wine. Although I know it will be hard to persuade you to buy a wine costing $57 from a less-than-stellar vintage, you will thank me if you buy this one! 93 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Bodegas Los Astrales, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2009 ($67, Grapes of Spain): Importer Aurelio Cabestrero has the (indisputably) strongest collection of wines from Ribera del Duero of any US-based importer, and the wines are just as impressive in terms of quality and value at the lower end as at this prestige level. Top bodegas made great wines in 2009, and this bottling is an object lesson demonstrating the excellence of the house as well as the vintage. You’ll know that you’re in Spain right after popping the cork, as the heady aromas of vanilla, toast, spices and woodsmoke will hit you before you can even get your nose into the glass. However, what is most impressive is that the ripe, dense, luxuriously generous and deep fruit flavors easily outrun the oak notes, showing great persistence of flavor and buffering the tannins throughout the very long finish. Difficult to resist now, the bodega’s track record indicates that this will actually improve for another 15 years. Which is a little scary.
93 Michael Franz May 21, 2013

Bodegas Los Astrales, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) "Astrales" 2014 ($65, Grapes of Spain):  The 2014 release of Astrales is a terrific success and a great example of the wonderful character that can be conjured from Tempranillo in Ribera del Duero.  Dark and dense and deeply flavored, with lavish accents of toast, spices and smoke from oak aging, this has plenty of power to please lovers of big, rich wine.  Yet it also displays considerable finesse, with very pure fruit flavors (dark cherry predominating) that ultimately outrun the wood notes, lending an overall sense of freshness and grace to the wine.  As a result, you could pair this successfully with anything from a charcoal grilled steak to less assertive dishes like roasted pork or duck.  it will benefit considerably from decanting, but take care not to let anyone else taste it after you pull the cork...or it will never last until dinner is actually served.
93 Michael Franz Jul 25, 2017

Montecastro, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) 2003 ($35, Classical Wines): I doubt that many writers will have beaten me to the punch on this baby, so remember where you heard this first! This stunning wine crushed all contenders in a class that I ran recently on new, high-end wines from Spain, and for good reason: it is so deeply ripe and deeply flavored as to seem almost bottomless, but with the balancing acidity and pure freshness that cool nights preserves in the Tempranillo of Ribera del Duero. Oak is notable, but only that, whether because it was minimally used or because the sheer power of the fruit in this wine simply overwhelmed it. The basic profile here is the absolute essence of black cherry fruit with fine accents from spices and subtle woodsmoke. Marvelous! 93 Michael Franz Mar 28, 2006

Pago de los Capellanes, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Reserva 2006 ($54, Antalva Imports):  This is a powerful Ribera Reserva with ripe, sweet, concentrated fruit braced by lots of fancy French oak.  What is most impressive about it, however, is its remarkably fresh acidity, which prevents the wine from becoming overbearing in its concentration and intensity.  Very well made from excellent components, this is delicious now but will be much better still in another five years. 93 Michael Franz Jan 11, 2011

Palomero, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2000 ($125, Grapes of Spain): This high-end producer from Ribera del Duero has at least two current releases, this 2000 and a 2004, both of which are impressive and tastefully wrought-which is an unusual combination. At nearly six years of age, this still shows primary fruit with lovely black cherry and blackberry flavors, but also some emerging secondary notes of saddle leather and mushrooms, along with some subtle mineral undertones. Oak notes are so well woven with the wine's aromatic and flavor components as to be almost indistinguishable on their own, and the overall package shows exceptional integration and symmetry. 93 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2006

Rolland & Galarreta, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2011 ($24): This masterful blend of Merlot and Tempranillo should walk off the shelves. It’s a big muscular and meaty combination but with glossy tannins usually associated with far more expensive wines. Powerful and simultaneously elegant, it marries dark fruit and savory elements. Nicely balanced, it’s a “big” wine without the tannic trappings that often accompany that style. It would be a great choice for current drinking with hearty wintery fare.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016

Tinto Figuero, Ribera Del Duero (Castila y León, Spain) Tempranillo "15" Reserva 2013 ($66, Quintessential):  This producer, like many in the region, releases wines under a system where the time spent in oak matters in a legal sense, not just as a winemaking preference.  This Reserva gets fifteen months in a combination of French and American oak, and it was time well spent, with a jazzy cinnamon spice character joining the black cherry, vanilla and faint dill aromas and flavors. A lively acid push keeps the flavors pumping in the finish, and suggests pairing with moderate strength cheese.
93 Rich Cook Dec 26, 2017

Abadía de San Quirce, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “M9” 2019 ($33):  This is a delicious wine in a contemporary style that shows relatively light oak (aged for 12 months in wood) and released young to feature the fruit — which is undeniably delicious.  The wood supports the fruit and adds complexity but doesn’t obtrude on either the aromas or flavors, and likewise doesn’t add excessive astringency from wood tannins.  In terms of texture, there’s a rounded feel on the palate, with gentle grip from tannin allowing for a surprisingly long finish for a wine that’s still so young, but also enough firmness to enable this to work with quite robust food — without requiring a lot of dietary fat to smooth it out.  I know almost nothing about this producer except for the three wines I just tasted, but all indications point to skill in both theory and practice, and the three offer significantly different styles, all very well executed.       
92 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Abadía de San Quirce, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Reserva 2016 ($33):  This is meaty, oaky, unapologetically traditional Ribera del Duero made entirely from Tempranillo, and those who love wines in the style made famous in the USA by Pesquera in the late 1980s will find that same style here (arguably better executed when measured against recent releases from Pesquera).  There’s ample spice and toast in the bouquet, as in vanilla and campfire embers, but the fruit is gutsy and satisfying even from a vintage that isn’t known for that attribute.  This will definitely benefit from cellaring for a good five years, and more than that if possible, but there’s no reason you couldn’t crack in to this now with a bit of aeration and maybe some grilled lamb.       
92 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Astrales, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) 2003 ($55, Grapes of Spain): We should all give thanks to the wine gods that this sort of bottling is finally being made in Ribera del Duero: A full-bodied Tempranillo that takes its stand on ripe fruit and subtle mineral undertones without befouling the result with extraneous oak. This wine is all about pure, focused blackberry and black cherry fruit, with interesting undertones of minerals and fresh mushrooms. Lovers of oak tannins and notes of vanilla and caramel should look elsewhere, and please close the door behind you. 92 Michael Franz Aug 29, 2006

Bodegas Peñalba Herraiz, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Aptus” 6 Meses en Barrica 2009 ($16, Grapes of Spain):  One of the best values that I’ve tasted during the past year, this wine can also grab your attention on the strength of sheer quality.  Dark and dense, with very expressive aromas and impressively deep flavors, Aptus is nevertheless not a stereotypical powerhouse wine, as it is marked equally by freshness and purity of fruit.  The spice and vanilla notes from oak are perfectly married with the dark cherry fruit notes, with all of the sensory nuances showing lovely proportionality from the first whiff through to the last flavors in the very persistent finish.  Had I tasted this blind, I’d have guessed it to be a $35 retail wine.  Importer Aurelio Cabestrero is exceedingly knowledgeable about wines from all over Spain, but he holds a special affection for Ribera del Duero, which presumably explains how he found this remarkable gem. 92 Michael Franz Apr 10, 2012

Figuero, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “12 Crianza” 2005 ($29, Quintessential):  The star of the Figuero portfolio, particularly when price enters the picture, this sumptuous wine offers red and black fruit flavors, with echoes of mint and anise that gain intensity in the finish.  It’s beautifully balanced, offering plenty of power without excessive heat or alcoholic force.  Aged for a year in barrel, it never tastes at all woody, the oak contributing softness without intruding on the wine’s own flavors. 92 Paul Lukacs Sep 28, 2010

Figuero, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “15 Reserva” 2004 ($80, Quintessential):  A truly delicious wine, this Reserva is intensely flavored yet seems soft and supple on the palate.  Though aged for fifteen months in new barrels, it never tastes seems excessively oaky.  The wood contributes texture, not noticeable flavor, and the wine is allowed to shine on its own.  Shine it definitely does, with a polished, sophisticated profile--bright red berry fruit, savory spice, compelling acidity, and excellent length. 92 Paul Lukacs Sep 28, 2010

Finca Torremilanos, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Monte Castrillo” 2011 ($13, Grapes of Spain): Believe it or not, I’ve already tasted more than 2,400 wines in 2013, and we’re only seven weeks into the year. Of all those wines, this one is clearly the best affordable red. Rich and dense and very deeply flavored, it remains pure and natural-seeming, with delicious flavors of black cherries and red and black berries and lightly spicy, smoky accents. Importer Aurelio Cabestrero has assembled an amazing collection of Tempranillo-based wines from Ribera del Duero, and dollar for dollar, this is the best of the best.
92 Michael Franz Feb 19, 2013

Legaris, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Crianza 2005 ($36, AV Brands): Generous but in no sense excessive, this 100% Tempranillo (or Tinta Fina) wines displays international flair.  It offers bright red fruit enhanced by echoes of vanilla, cocoa, and sweet chocolate, and while containing over 14% alcohol, never seems hot or heavy.  Beautifully proportioned, it should age well but is drinking beautifully right now. 92 Paul Lukacs Jul 21, 2009

Neo, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Sentido” 2008 ($28, Grapes of Spain):  I believe that I’ve tasted every vintage of this wine that’s ever been made, and though I’ve thought that all of them were good, I can’t recall one that was strikingly good--until this one.  Ripe and rich, with broad texture and deep flavors, it shows gorgeous fruit recalling dark cherries, with a subtle spiciness around the edges.  The oak is tastefully restrained, permitting the delicious fruit to retain center stage--where it shines.  Pair with lamb, whether braised, roasted or grilled. 92 Michael Franz Feb 15, 2011

Neo, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2003 ($58, Grapes of Spain): New bodegas in Ribera del Duero are a dime a dozen, but no one with a brain and a palate could say that about this producer, given the extraordinary record that it has produced since a debut with the 2000 vintage. That release was stunning, followed by a 2001 that was among the very best wines of the whole appellation in a historically great year. The 2002 was also among the region's best in a terribly tough growing season, and this 2003 is a great success in a famously hot year that produced a lot of oafish, chunky wines. Very ripe but not remotely raisiny, it shows deeply flavorful fruit recalling black cherries and dark berries, along with some nice mineral backnotes. The wine needs oak for bracing, and it has it in appropriate abundance, but the wood notes do not distract or detract from the delicious fruit. If I were selling Bordeaux at today's going rate, this is the sort of wine that would keep me awake at night with worry. 92 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2006

Neo, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) 2003 ($58, Grapes of Spain): New bodegas in Ribera del Duero are a dime a dozen, but no one with a brain and a palate could say that about this producer, given the extraordinary record that it has produced since a debut with the 2000 vintage. That release was stunning, followed by a 2001 that was among the very best wines of the whole appellation in a historically great year. The 2002 was also among the region's best in a terribly tough growing season, and this 2003 is a great success in a famously hot year that produced a lot of oafish, chunky wines. Very ripe but not remotely raisiny, it shows deeply flavorful fruit recalling black cherries and dark berries, along with some nice mineral backnotes. The wine needs oak for bracing, and it has it in appropriate abundance, but it does not distract or detract from the delicious fruit. If I were selling Bordeaux at today's going rate, this is the sort of wine that would keep me awake at night with worry. 92 Michael Franz Sep 5, 2006

Pago de los Capellanes, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Joven Roble 2009 ($20, Antalva Imports):  Aged for a modest 5 months in oak and released while still very young, this is a great object lesson in the wonders of Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero.  Known locally as Tinto Fino, this great variety can attain a purity and succulence in Ribera del Duero that can make for an utterly charming wine when left largely as is, without the heavy overlay of oak to which Spanish winemakers still subject their wines with curious frequency.  Follow the same formula in Rioja, and the resulting wines can seem thin and unsatisfying.  Do the same thing in Toro, and the grape can seem chunky and overly simple.  But in Ribera del Duero, a top producer like Pago de los Capellanes can produce something magical from this simple vinification.  The resulting aromas are fresh and primary but not grapey or obvious, and the texture of the wine is wonderfully soft and round, with medium-plus body that it firmed up by just a hint of wood and some fine-grained grape tannin in the finish.  The flavors are delicate and pure but also deep and lasting, and the wine is already remarkably integrated at this young age.  Don’t believe a red from 2009 can really merit 92 points?  To taste is to believe. 92 Michael Franz Oct 26, 2010

Callejo Estate Wines, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Flores de Callejo” 2011 ($20, Quality Wines of Spain): Made entirely from Tempranillo and stored for 6 months in French oak barrels, this shows the phenomenal balance and fruit character that top bodegas in Ribera del Duero can coax from this great variety--and that bodegas in Rioja or Toro usually cannot.  Juicier and fleshier than young, minimally oaked Rioja but fresher and brighter than comparable Toro, this is an object lesson in perfectly ripened Tempranillo, showing medium-bodied fruit with wonderfully pure dark cherry flavors and just a little spice and smoke on top, this is terrific and very versatile thanks to soft tannins and subtle wood.
91 Michael Franz Sep 24, 2013

Finca La Mata, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2011 ($22, Grapes of Spain): Importer Aurelio Cabestrero has assembled a collection of wines from Ribera del Duero that is remarkably good at a wide range of price levels.  This wonderful wine shows impressive richness and depth of flavor along with just the right amount of structural grip from tannin and restrained oak.  Full-bodied but still fresh and very pure in fruit profile, this can work with chicken or pork but would easily hold its own with a grilled steak.
91 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2013

Legaris, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Reserva 2004 ($36, AV Brands): This 2004 Reserva is bigger and meatier than the current release Crianza from 2005 (both are excellent vintages for Ribera del Duero), and it also shows more notable oak, for better or worse according to your personal taste.  The oak lends a quite notable smoky edge to the fruit in this wine, but there’s enough fruit to keep the oak on the sensory margin, and the notes of spices, smoke and vanilla work very well with the core of black cherry fruit. 91 Michael Franz Aug 4, 2009

Pago de los Capellanes, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Crianza 2007 ($34, Antalva Imports):  A very impressive wine from a producer that is staking a claim for leadership in Ribera del Duero, this features medium-plus body and excellent depth of fruit.  There’s a lot of spicy, toasty oak around the edges, but the solid core of fruit easily counterbalances it, and the wine shows fine symmetry and integration at this relatively early point in its development.  Sure to improve for another 7-10 years, it is nevertheless ready to enjoy now with aeration and robust food. 91 Michael Franz Jan 11, 2011

Palomero, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2004 ($125, Grapes of Spain): Although this 2004 bottling cannot yet match its current release stablemate from the 2000 vintage, it is nevertheless delicious already and highly promising for the future. Concentrated and very dark, it is nevertheless not over-ripe, showing fresh fruit character and even a bit of acidity to counterbalance the weight of the fruit. Smoky, spicy notes from oak are discernable but certainly not overbearing, and with a few years to unwind and develop additional aromatic nuances, this may rise from excellence to greatness. 91 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2006

Pesquera, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Reserva 2005 ($60, Classical Wines): The move from Crianza to Reserva at Pesquera usually shows a firmer edge of oak, and that is the case in this instance, though the fruit in this wine is unquestionably equal to the task of holding its proper place in the forefront.  Along with the core notes of black cherry, vanilla and woodsmoke there's also a vaguely meaty character to the wine, which is very substantial and satisfying but never seems overblown. 91 Michael Franz Feb 3, 2009

Tinto Figuero, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Roble “4 Meses en Barrica” 2006 ($20, Quintessential): Tempranillo is clearly one of the world’s greatest red grapes, and of all the regions in Spain in which it is grown, Ribera del Duero often seems best able to balance the variety’s prettiness and power (whereas Rioja leans toward the former and Toro toward the latter).  The only problem is that Ribera’s winemakers are often overly enamored with their barrels, producing wines that display the art of the cooper more than the grower.  This wine is a terrific case in counterpoint, showing wonderfully pure notes of black cherries that get just a little framing from spicy oak around the edges.  The tannins are notable but very ripe and soft, lending a little firmness but no astringency. 91 Michael Franz Sep 1, 2009

Torremilanos, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2005 ($30, Grapes of Spain): This is a lovely Ribera from an excellent vintage that is now hitting its stride and entering its prime.  Substantial and nicely concentrated, it shows a medium- to full-bodied profile, with a soft, rounded texture but lots of flavor recalling--above all--black cherries.  The oak notes are now well integrated with the fruit, and the accents of vanilla, spices and smoke make for a complex experience.  Delicious! 91 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2009

Arrocal, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2011 ($18, Grapes of Spain): Another amazing Ribera imported by Aurelio Cabestrero, this wine shows terrific flavors of dark cherries and plums, with just enough edging from six months of oak ageing to add a spicy counterpoint to the gorgeous fruit.  Sourced entirely from estate vineyards, this is a model of balance and purity--characteristics that Ribera del Duero achieves with Tempranillo like no place else in the world. 90 Michael Franz Dec 24, 2013

Convento San Francisco, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Roble 2011 ($17, Winebow): Convento San Francisco crafts excellent wines drawn from old-vine sites in the Ribera del Duero of north-central Spain.  Their 2011 Roble shows a lovely bouquet of pure cherry fruit backed by hints of violets, blackberry and vanilla.  Lively and bright on the palate, it has layers of ripe cherry and blackberry fruits underscored by vanilla, nutmeg and clove tones.  It offers a wonderful balance of pure fruit and exotic spice elements.  Serve it with your favorite red meat dish – grilled, sautéed, braised or grilled.  Its pure and powerful flavors will make a fine match.
90 Wayne Belding Nov 18, 2014

Figuero, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Noble” 2004 ($130, Quintessential):  An undoubtedly impressive wine, “Noble” spends twenty-one months in barrel, and unlike the other Figuero offerings (but very much like many other Ribera del Duero reds), the wood influence plays a fairly prominent role in the wine’s flavor profile.  The spicy character imparted by the oak adds another element to what already is a multi-faceted wine, with hints of coffee, black licorice, and mint atop its primary fruit flavors.  That fruit, however, is beginning to dry slightly, suggesting that the wine will show best if drunk in the near-term. 90 Paul Lukacs Sep 28, 2010

Legaris, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2005 ($27, AV Brands): This delicious Crianza from 2005 shows very good quality and actually provides real quality competition for the very strong 2004 Reserva from this producer.  It shows medium-plus body, very pure fruit with a black cherry and plum character, and nicely balanced oak lending a nice spicy edge but not obscuring the fruit.  Pure and poised, this will work very well with grilled lamb. 90 Michael Franz Aug 4, 2009

Pesquera, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2006 ($39, Classical Wines): This is a fresh, pure, artfully-wrought rendition of Tempranillo (or Tinto Fino as it tends to be called in Ribera del Duero).  Notes ripe bing cherries are vivid and very appealing both aromatically and in terms of flavor on the palate, and the wood impression from American oak is tastefully subtle while still having a beneficial effect in framing the pleasantly sweet fruit notes. 90 Michael Franz Feb 3, 2009

Torres, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza “Celeste” 2007 ($21, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  Torres, Spain’s most renown producer, expanded their holdings in 2003 to include high altitude (about 3,000 feet elevation) vineyards in Ribera del Duero from which they make this wine.  Keeping with their style, it is beautifully balanced and polished with deep red fruit flavors and minerality.  The altitude of the vineyards allows the grapes to hold their acidity and imparts freshness to the wine.  Not overdone, it weighs in with a stated 13.5% alcohol, which allows its layered complexity to shine.  Glossy tannins allow you to enjoy it now. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 1, 2011

Torres, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Celeste” Crianza 2005 ($24, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Holding a host of wineries here on earth (in Spain, Chile and California) it seems that with Celeste Torres is now aiming for the heavens.  Characterized by substantial color, body and fruit, this wine shows the opulence that Tempranillo (or Tinto Fino as it’s called in Rebera del Duero) is capable of producing.   This high altitude wine comes from a vineyard planted on a slope almost 3000 feet high.  The handsome label features a celestial design of the constellations that were shining overhead when the grapes that went into Celeste were harvested. 90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 4, 2009

Condado de Haza, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2006 ($32, Classical Wines): This showy bottling from Alejandro Fernández leads with a lot of sweet vanilla aromatics, and that first impression could mislead one to dismiss this as a fluffy, overly-adorned wine.  However, the fruit kicks in with admirable depth of flavor, and the dark cherry notes are pure and appealing, with backnotes of espresso beans and spices.  Moderately robust, this will stand up to red meats, but will not overpower white meat dishes based on pork or veal. 89 Michael Franz Feb 3, 2009

Cruz de Alba, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) 2006 ($25, W. J. Deutsch and Sons):  With the power and intensity one might expect given Cruz de Alba’s combination of mature vines (average age 30 years), biodynamically farmed vineyards, and very skilled winemaking, this distinctive wine is unfailingly interesting to analyze and contemplate in the glass as well as providing gustatory satisfaction.  Ample, persistent, spicy and fruity, it’s a suitable accompaniment to a wide range of foods, including red meats, pasta, and even certain grilled fish. 89 Marguerite Thomas Mar 9, 2010

Legaris, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Reserva 2004 ($27, AV Brands):  Made with Tinta Fina (the local name for Tempranillo) from estate vineyards, this concentrated but supple wine offers an opulent fruit and spice bouquet followed by long cherry and blackberry flavors enhanced by echoes of toast and dried herbs.  The only thing preventing me from awarding it a 90+ score is the somewhat blunt or obvious flavor of oak in the finish.  This note might dissipate in the future, but given the wine’s soft texture and age, I doubt that it will. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 23, 2010

Neo, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon) "Sentido" 2005 ($25, Grapes of Spain): This is a new, entry-level offering under the Neo brand (which is essentially a garage wine made in a reworked mill) from Ribera del Duero, which burst onto the world wine scene with a first vintage from 2000. Every Neo has been outstanding, including the 2002 from a very difficult vintage. This bottling doesn't offer the depth of flavor or refinement of character of the bodega's top bottlings, but at less than half the price of the straight Neo, it offers excellent concentration and purity of fruit. Full-bodied but still fresh, with no notable over-ripeness, it features delicious fruit recalling black cherries and dark berries, with very nice undertones of spice and minerals in the finish, which is soft but persistent. 89 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2006

El Arte de Vivir, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2004 ($14, Grapes of Spain): Ribera del Duero in central Spain is one of the greatest places in the world for growing red grapes with pure flavors and excellent balance of fruit and structure. Sadly, many growers working with the noble Tempranillo still mask their potentially marvelous fruit with too much oak, and often the better wines of the region are more modestly-priced wines where over-oaking is not a viable option in financial terms. Whether such considerations played a part in the styling of this wine I cannot say, as we may simply have a case of rational winemaking on our hands here, but in any case the finished product is delicious. With medium-bodied fruit that recalls black cherries and just enough acidity and tannin to lend structure and definition, this is all about purity and poise. 88 Michael Franz Aug 15, 2006

Figuero, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) 2008 ($20, Quintessential):  The entry-level Ribera del Duero from Figuero, this youthful red comes from ten to twenty year-old Tempranillo vines, and has been aged in barrel (predominantly American oak) for just four months.  The result is a pleasant, juicy red, full of red fruit, with impressive length on the palate. 88 Paul Lukacs Sep 28, 2010

De Lozar, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) 2005 ($13, Grapes of Spain): Spain is a real threat to wine producing countries like Australia and Argentina because it can field red wines that offer comparable levels of concentration with flavors that are exceptionally pure, without extraneous ripeness or sweetness. This lovely case in point features delicious black cherry fruit and not a lot else-but it needs nothing more to prove very appealing indeed. 86 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2006

Isaac Fernández, Ribera del Duero DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Reserva 2015 ($60, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  The 2015 vintage of this wine — released in the USA at the same time as its stablemate from 2014 — is beautiful even just to behold, with a deep ruby hue and such clarity that it almost seems to shimmer in one’s glass.  More taut and firmly oaked at this stage than the 2014, it is nevertheless beautifully proportioned too, with very fresh acidity providing lift and linear drive to the concentrated fruit and bold but balanced oak.  (Even the label and packaging are beautiful, if that matters to you.)  It shows lots of tannin working along with the oak to firm and frame the wine’s fruit, but that fruit is so fresh and expressive that neither element gets the upper hand.  Although this is best laid down for a good five years if you only have a bottle or two, it proved quite enjoyable with a grilled hanger steak after a tasting session, so don’t be afraid to try it now to see if you want to purchase more of it.  Re-tasted the following day, the wine had not budged an inch, meaning that it had not softened much, but also that the freshness of fruit was utterly uncompromised.        
95 Michael Franz Feb 16, 2021

Telmo Rodriguez, Ribera del Duero DO (Castilla y León, Spain) "Matallana" 2015 ($60, SM Wine Imports):  This Tempranillo blend (85 percent Tempranillo with up to 15% other varieties such as Valenciano [Bobal], Navarro [Garnacha], and even white Albillo) is a blend of nine vineyards in five villages.  The Matallana is inspired by the old Vega Sicilia wines using a blend of soils.  Only 16,884 bottles of this beauty were produced.  The nose is a splendid blend of licorice, baking spices, cassis, and black plum.  The palate shows focus and density, with warm flavors of black cherry, plum, spice, herbs with cocoa, tobacco, and earth accents.  The tannins are fine, and it finishes long and dry with precision and elegance.             
95 Miranda Franco May 4, 2021

Dominio del Aguila, Ribera del Duero DO (Castilla y León, Spain) "Picaro" Tinto 2019 ($39, Indigo Wine):  This fresh-style Ribera del Duero "Picaro" (pícaro means rogue) from winemaker to watch Jorge Monzón is dominated by Tempranillo but also contains a splash of Bocal and Grenache.  Monzón founded this winery in 2010, renovating a 17th-century cellar, where he foot-treads whole bunches of his organically farmed grapes.  It is an approachable but serious wine with abundant, vibrant flavors of strawberry, herbs, and cardamom.  The palate is lush with supple tannins and pronounced acidity that keeps this lifted. The finish is long, persistent, and round.  Enjoy now and for years to come!         
94 Miranda Franco Dec 7, 2021

Isaac Fernández, Ribera del Duero DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Reserva 2014 ($60, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is a new project from winemaking star Isaac Fernández Montaña, among the most versatile and impressive young winemakers in Spain, now available in two debut vintages imported into the USA by Aurelio Cabestrero.  Both wines are wonderful already terrific despite having been aged entirely in new oak, which shows Fernández’s skillful tough.  They are notably different in appearance and palate performance, with this 2014 being softer and more developed (more than could be explained by being a calendar year younger), though this still has years of positive development ahead of it.  Both the aromas and flavors are wonderfully open, with scents and flavors that offer balanced expressions of fruit (with both red and black tones), oak-sourced suggestions of toast, spices and woodsmoke, and savory accents recalling cocoa powder, tobacco leaf and damp earth.  This is rich enough to stand up to the most robust foods, but make no mistake: this is no stupid bruiser of a wine, but rather one of many subtleties and nuances wrapped around a core of beautifully ripened and carefully wrought fruit.  I scored the 2015 a point higher based on a longer expected lifespan, but that is arguably unfair, as those owning both will probably drink this first just because it is already so easy to enjoy.         
94 Michael Franz Feb 16, 2021

Bodegas Peñalba, Ribera del Duero DO (Castilla y León, Spain) “Aptus” 2019 ($19, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This wine is not about fireworks, but rather about purity of fruit, which it achieves at an extremely high level.  I’ve written before (many times, but I’m not done) that young, modestly-oaked Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero is among the world’s most delicious and versatile wines, in addition to being the most transparent of all Spain’s renditions of its premier red variety—and a great value on top on all of that.  This is an object lesson in everything you just read, and I encourage you to put my claims to the test by tasting this, with the promise that if you don’t like it (and can pass a lie detector test to that effect), I’ll come mow your lawn for the rest of the summer.  Medium-bodied but with lots of fresh, dark-cherry fruit aromas and flavors, this is highly expressive, but fruit-driven in its expressiveness, with only wispy touches of spice and oak derived from the 8 months that this spent in barrique (or barrica, in Spanish).  There is essentially no oak tannin to make the finish astringent, and just enough ripe, fine-grained grape tannin to offer grip in the finish and keeping this from seeming “grapey” or unstructured.  This is undeniably delicious.  I’d suggest you not even bother trying to fool a lie detector, but go for it if you wish; my mower is ready.        
92 Michael Franz Aug 24, 2021

Castelo de Medina, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2005 ($10, Elite Imports): Fresh and bright, but at the same time fairly round on the palate, this wine offers great value.  Its fruit flavors, resembling peaches and pears, are supported by slightly nutty, honeyed notes, giving it genuinely complexity.  Drink it as an aperitif or with light fare. 89 Paul Lukacs Feb 13, 2007

Valde Lainos, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2005 ($11, Grapes of Spain): This fresh, expressive Verdejo features lots of crisp, fresh citrus fruit with nice accents of straw and minerals. It may be the best wine of its type available for less than $12, and given the continuing weakness of the dollar, I find it remarkable that a wine of this quality is still available for $11. 85 Michael Franz Aug 22, 2006

Abadia Retuerta, Sardon de Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) "Rivola" 2003 ($13, Kobrand): This is a delicious wine at a very attractive price. It offers soft, deeply flavored fruit recalling black cherries and both red and black berries, with just a little oak and some light accents of tobacco leaf and fresh meat. Medium-bodied, it will perform beautifully with almost any preparation of light meats like pork or veal. 88 Michael Franz Aug 1, 2006

Abadia Retuerta, Sardon de Duero (Castilla y Leon, Spain) "Selección Especial" 2001 ($20, Kobrand): A blend of 75% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot, it shows complex flavors of red and black berries along with plenty of spicy, smoky oak. The wood notes are still so prominent as to dry the finish a bit, and though this effect is likely to diminish with time, the wine is now no better overall than this producer's very pretty (and bargain-priced) 'Rivola' bottling from 2003. 88 Michael Franz Aug 1, 2006

Abadia Retuerta, Sardón de Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2005 ($22):

Sardón de Duero lies just down Spain's Duero River from Ribera del Duero and, like its more famous neighbor, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are planted and blended with Tempranillo, the primary grape of the region.  Lacking official recognition as a DO, its wines, such as this one, which is bottled as a Vino de la Tierra--analogous to a French Vin de Pays--can offer superb value especially when compared to its pricier neighbor.  Not overdone, this mid-weight wine is nicely balanced.  The Cabernet, which often can dominate a blend, does not, but rather adds structure.  The Merlot lends a little plumpness, but it's the Tempranillo that delivers a captivating mixture of red and black fruits, herbs and spice.  Fine tannins make it an excellent choice for current consumption.

El Primario, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) 2008 ($13, American Estates Wines):  This is a modest-looking wine with a modest designation (rather than appellation--it is actually the Spanish equivalent of what would be a Vin de Pays in France).  However, it is a big, assertive performer, with lots of muscle and intensity that actually calls for food like grilled lamb rather than the roast chicken that you’d be advised to order with a mass-market wine from this area (like Tapeña, which is quite good but no threat to this bottle).  Impressive stuff! 90 Michael Franz Apr 3, 2012

Gran Rojo, Tierra de Castilla (Spain) Garnacha 2005 ($9, Quintessential): Very supple, with plum-flavored fruit, gentle tannins, and an earthy undertone to add intrigue, this red would be a great summer party choice.  It has enough oomph to stand up to grilled meats, but is soft enough to benefit from a bit of a chill in the fridge.  And at a mere $9, it's equally gentile on the pocketbook. 87 Paul Lukacs Jul 17, 2007

Osborne, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Merlot/Tempranillo “Solaz” 2005 ($8, W. J. Deutsch and Sons): This two-thirds Merlot and one-third Tempranillo blend is a charming wine.  Supple, but not soft, the acidity keeps it fresh so you can keep tasting the black-cherry flavors.  If it were Italian, I'd call it a good 'pizza' wine, but since it's from Spain, think of it as a wine for tapas.  A great value. 87 Michael Apstein Mar 20, 2007

Tapeña, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo 2010 ($10, Freixenet USA):  Usually wines with cutesy names and labels disappoint.  The name of this one, suggestive of tapas, and the fork on the label qualifies for cutesy.  But the wine most definitely does not disappoint.  It’s a mid-weight cheery wine with attractive bitter dark cherry-tinged notes and fresh acidity that offsets the fruitiness.  It’s perfect for anything from pizza to take-out rotisserie chicken.  And a great bargain. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2011

Tapeña, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Garnacha 2010 ($10, Freixenet USA):  Tapeña’s Tempranillo (also reviewed this week) their Garnacha is another easy-to-recommend bargain.  Slightly lighter than the Tempranillo with red, as opposed to dark, fruit flavors predominating, it has the same uplifting acidity and charm.  It will be a crowd pleaser on the Thanksgiving table. 86 Michael Apstein Nov 8, 2011

Bodegas Elías Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Don Daniel” 2018 ($160, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Only 250 cases of this wine were produced in honor of Victoria Benvenides’ father, and I’ve never seen it before, so your odds of finding a bottle without some earnest efforts are pretty slim.  It offers spectacular purity of fruit on a big but stylish frame, with essentially perfect balance between the fruit’s density and the French oak’s supportive structure.  Silky texture and near-perfect integration suggests that the fruit was immaculate for starters and then treated with great care when macerated and fermented, and oak aging was only 12 months in duration — half the time of the Reserva from this house.  The fruit is sourced from 50-year-old, single vineyard “La Cañadica” estate.  It was absolutely marvelous when re-tasted after 24 hours — impeccable and fresh, lithe but still very expressive both aromatically and in terms of flavor, without any extraneous weight.  This is substantially more expensive than anything in the Elías Mora lineup, and that always seems to exert some pressure to beef up a wine and whack it with a lot of oak so that buyers will feel like they got their money’s worth.  However, my impression was that this wasn’t made with buyers in mind, but rather as an homage, and wow… what a tribute, both to Don Daniel and also to the skill of all who tended the vines and helped craft this wine.          
98 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2023

Numanthia, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) "Termanthia 2007 ($225, Moët Hennessey USA):  Wines trying to achieve “greatness” by relying on power alone fail because they lack elegance.  Power will get a wine noticed, but it is not the component that determines the wine’s quality.  Numanthia’s Termanthia, their top of the line wine made from vines that are over 100 years old, succeeds because it delivers great concentration while retaining elegance. Its power comes from low-yielding, less than a ton per acre, vines that are over 100 years old, planted in just the right locale (As Doug Frost notes, if it weren’t the perfect locale the vines wouldn’t have survived so long).  Concentrated and mineraly, it has enormous complexity in the finish that seems to change with every sip.  For all its oomph, it’s neither overdone nor alcoholic.  That’s a marvelous combination that’s hard to achieve. 97 Michael Apstein Mar 27, 2012

San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Paraje del Pozo “Cartago de San Román” 2018 ($170, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This wine is already stupendously good — so striking in its excellence that I worry that it will make my already gaudy score look stingy when I revisit the wine years from now.  For the sake of context, I see the similar high scores for comparably-priced wines from Bordeaux from the trio of vintages 2018 – 2019, and now huge scores again for “futures” offerings from 2022, and they make me wonder:  How many wine lovers and collectors will pass on this because they think nothing from Spain could quite measure up to its French peers at this price level?  My guess is that the number is high, but that it would plummet if more of the people in question were ever to taste this.  Very dark and rich, with excellent aromatic and flavor expressiveness as well as complexity, it seems to show a different set of nuances with every sniff and sip.  It continued to accomplish that for 48 hours without ever showing any tiring over time, even though it was completely convincing from the moment the cork was pulled.  A longstanding piece of wisdom among generations of wine evaluators is that truly great wines are great at every stage of their development, and in my experience, showing greatness early on is much rarer than showing it with the benefit of — say — a decade in bottle.  This wine is already there.          
97 Michael Franz Jun 20, 2023

San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2016 ($65, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  I believe I’ve tasted every vintage of this wine that’s been imported into the USA, and think that this may be the best of them all.  It is still quite young, but obviously very beautiful in character and virtually perfect in ripeness, structure and proportionality.  Quite deeply pigmented, with exceptional flavor impact but no heaviness, it is marvelous Tempranillo with many years of improvement ahead of it.  Rather tight when first opened, with notable but definitely not excessive oak, it unfolds gradually over the course of its first hours after opening to display ever more layers of fruit and minerality, and ever better integrated toast and spice from oak.  Tasted again 24 hours later, it is better still.  Fresh with acidity, it is beautifully bright, with gorgeous purity of fruit.  It really needs time to unwind, and will no doubt not hit its peak until it is at least a decade from the vintage, and quite possibly not until a decade from now.  I’ve seen the reviews from other critics, including Luis Gutiérrez from The Wine Advocate (whom I greatly respect), and all of them underscored this wine, no doubt because they tasted it while it was still too young and tight.  Odds are I’ve underscored it too.     
96 Michael Franz Oct 13, 2020

San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Cartago Paraje del Pozo” 2015 ($170, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is a fantastic release from the uber-talented Garcia family’s outpost in Toro.  The richest and most “impressive” of the three vintages of this wine that I’ve been fortunate to taste, it shows a lovely aromatic wisp of woodsmoke, but from somebody’s else’s campfire, not one right under your nose.  Scents of ripe fruit are also evident, showing both red and black fruit tones along with suggestions of baking spices.  In palate profile, it offers medium-plus body with good density but no sense of heaviness, and much more flavor impact than sheer weight, with no hint at all of over-ripeness from a hot, dry year that could easily have produced that result.  Clearly based on extraordinary fruit sourced from an un-grafted single site with vine age of 45+ years, this is on the lavish side in terms of fruit that’s nicely counterbalanced by a well-measured dose of the finest oak, which lends extra grip and complexity.  By “well-measured,” I mean more specifically that the proportions of fruit and oak in the wine’s aftertaste are almost identical to when the wine first tips out of the glass and onto one’s tongue.  This is a very special wine made to improve for many years, but the fact is that it is already beautiful and easy to enjoy with food.      
96 Michael Franz Dec 1, 2020

Bodegas Elías Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Gran Elías Mora La Senda de Los Lobos" Añada Singular 2017 ($90, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is a very big and powerful wine in most vintages — certainly in this one as well.  Physically quite dense, it counterbalances its oak load very effectively, making the initial impression one of purity and balance.  This is a singular characteristic that makes this wine worth its asking price when judged against ultra-premium wines that also ring up for $90 or so.  Its window of enjoyability is just phenomenal, and though I think it would be a mistake to open this for another five years, it will likely improve for two decades after that and hold for another decade after that.  Holding it for that long will require either a bit of optimism or deep affection for your children or grandchildren, but the wine really does seem up to the challenge.  Tasted again 24 hours after opening, it still showed the same need for time in bottle to absorb tannins, so either keep your mitts off this for a good while or buy the 2018 Reserva instead.        
95 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2023

Bodegas Maurodos, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) "San Roman" 2012 ($65, Grapes of Spain): This is one of the finest young renditions of San Roman that I’ve ever tasted, and that is really saying something, as this is my single favorite of all the wines of Toro (despite the fact that it is not the most expensive).  The color remains strikingly dark at three years of age, with very concentrated pigmentation that suggests the wine will -- when tasted -- prove to be hard at best and impenetrable at worst.  But that isn’t what happens at all.  Far less overtly oaky than some earlier renditions of this wine that I’ve tasted, it is already showing an uncanny combination of succulence and structure, with dark cherry and berry fruit that displays great power but also a purity and tenderness that permits immediate enjoyment if the wine is aerated and paired with (even moderately) robust food.  This will develop in positive ways for a full decade, and savory accents are already emerging around the edges, but it is already completely convincing.
95 Michael Franz Nov 24, 2015

Bodegas San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “San Román” 2020 ($70, Aurelio Cabestrero / Grapes of Spain):  This is consistently one of Spain’s best wines.  Although dozens of others are more expensive, the number that are better, more consistent, and enjoyable over a very long term is close to zero.  It has not suffered at all from the introduction of another release from this bodega above this wine’s level, namely, “Cartago Paraje del Pozo,” which is truly marvelous.  Common sense would tell you that such a move would suck much of the best juice out of this wine, and that the ratio of the very best French Oak barriques used for it would go down, but you’d be less than half right on both counts.  Very little Cartago Paraje del Pozo is made, and this “San Román” bottling remains ultra-serious, concentrated, and complex, but with a little less new oak showing in the finished wine than in some previous vintages.  San Román is better than ever in recent years, all things considered, as it is more enjoyable early on, while still having plenty of spice from oak and just a touch of extra grip from wood tannin.  This vintage is among the most complete and convincing ever made, with plush but moderately ripened fruit, very well measured toast and spice notes, and superb texture that manages to seem both sturdy and silky after an hour of airing.  This is phenomenal Tempranillo.      
95 Michael Franz May 16, 2023

Bodegas y Vinedos San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo 2017 ($65, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  If you are a fan of elegant yet powerful reds, seek out Toro.  Toro is located in the Castilla y León region of central Spain, northwest of Madrid, and was officially recognized by Spain with its Denominaciónes de Origin (D.O.) appellation in 1987.  At that time, it had only four wineries.  Today, there are approximately 50 wineries in the region largely producing Spain’s leading red variety, Tempranillo -- called  Tinta de Toro locally.  One of those wineries  -- Bodegas y Vinedos San Román is a family-owned winery that iconic winemaker Mariano Garcia founded in 1998.  In short, this wine is delicious.  It's a superb Tinta de Toro with a vibrant palate with rich flavors, and building tannins.  There is great finesse here, power and concentration but with impeccable balance.    
95 Miranda Franco Feb 22, 2022

Elias Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Reserva 2012 ($110, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  What a pleasure to find a high-end, current release wine from Spain that is in the market at a point in its development when it can be appreciated fully!  This is a wine of great beauty and complexity, and one that collectors would be well advised to seek out, and yet its readiness to relish right now makes it a great option for those who don’t have cellars to buy to celebrate a special occasion.  The fruit is 100% Tinta de Toro (a local strain of Tempranillo resulting from genetic mutation over time), sourced from the single, 80-year-old Senda del Lobo vineyard.  It shows medium-plus body but no sense of heaviness and no hint of over-ripeness, with lovely accents of spices and faint hints of coffee beans, cured meat and pipe tobacco.  There’s plenty of tannin to provide structure, but it is superbly fine in grain, resulting is very soft mouthfeel and a finish that is luxuriously long, without any foreshortening from astringency.  Absolutely beautiful.        
95 Michael Franz Dec 1, 2020

Elias Mora, Toro (Spain) “Gran Elias Mora” 2012 ($90, Grapes of Spain):  This is an astonishing wine, but not for the faint of heart.  It is hugely impressive, with “huge” being the most important element in that clause.  Still nearly black in color and opaque in pigmentation at 6 years of age, it is phenomenally rich and concentrated.  Aromas of baking spices and subtle woodsmoke are quite appealing, but then the sheer intensity and power of the wine just kick down the door and the wild ride begins.  Those who think Tempranillo (or Tinta de Toro, as it is called in this region) just makes light- or medium-bodied wines will be set straight permanently by this bottling, which as actually “thick” in texture, as in milkshake thick.  Flavors of blackberries, cassis and black cherry are very intense but not remotely obvious or over-ripe, and though there’s a lot of bracing from oak, the wood accents definitely overwhelmed by the fruit’s sheer strength.  You could enjoy this now with decanting and a grilled steak, but it will be better in another 5 years and undoubtedly can hang on or even improve for a full decade from now.  What a wine! 
95 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2018

Bodega Elías Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2020 ($40, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Wine lovers who don’t know the history and caliber of the Toro appellation (located to the northwest of Madrid) may well bridle at a price of $40 for a wine designated as “Crianza,” so a bit of background is in order.  “Crianza” is a word made famous in Rioja, where it really only serves to indicate a wine that was oak aged, often in rather raw wood that imparts more flavor to the finished wine than the liquid in the bottle.  This, in turn, was (and is still) often explained by the fact that high-yielding clones of Tempranillo were developed to enable big wineries to crank out inexpensive wines juked up with all that oak and sell them in supermarkets all over the world — as well as in beach towns to foreign tourists all the way back in the Franco era during the 1960s and ’70s.  Toro was never in that game, commercially speaking, and was never invaded by those high-yielding clones (though a few producers have used them), so the very appearance of the word “Crianza” on the label of this wine from this excellent producer is really only intended to distinguish the pecking order of the wines within the lineup of releases.  My opinion is that the presence of the word does more harm than good, but then, nobody asked me.  Regarding the wine, my opinion is that it is packed with ripe, delicious fruit flavor that easily outruns the considerable oak that is also evident, but utilized in this to guarantee longevity and add complexity.  Quite nicely proportioned on a big frame, this a powerful and intense without being heavy, with purity of fruit (a hallmark of this house) that keeps the oak at bay.  Already delicious, but better in five years, and likely much better in ten.        
94 Michael Franz May 21, 2024

Bodegas Elías Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Descarte” 2018 ($65, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  I’ve tasted most (maybe all) of the vintages of this wine ever imported to the USA, but don’t remember one that was quite this good.  2018 was a hot year in almost all of Europe, so the fact that the vineyard sites used for this wine are north-facing may explain the delicious outcome.  The finished wine shows very deep flavors and luxurious texture by comparison to the 2019 Crianza, with notes of ripe blackberries and Bing cherries alongside accents of cocoa and baking spices.  Conspicuously concentrated but neither heavy nor overly assertive, this is wicked good wine right now.  It will likely get even better, but few who taste it now will prove patient enough to find out.           
94 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2023

San Roman, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2011 ($70, Grapes of Spain): This is a fantastic young rendition of San Roman, which is probably the single most distinguished wine from the entire appellation of Toro. Whereas some past vintages have been extremely tight and oaky when first released, requiring years of cellaring to show their inevitable greatness, this release exhibits a notably different profile.  The 2011 is already amazingly generous, with highly expressive aromas, deep and lasting flavors, and wonderful texture combining fleshiness and grip.  Dark berry fruit is accented with toast and spice notes, but these wood-based sensations are really nicely balanced against the fruit, which outlasts them in the finish.  There’s a chance that this will still shut down and tighten up, but my guess is that it will prove to be one of those rare wines that shows its beauty from the start and stays beautiful for a good dozen years.
94 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2014

San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2017 ($65):  The 2017 rendition of San Roman is packed with power and also packed with assertive oak, and accordingly is recommended for cellaring or for more near-term consumption by those who enjoy overtly spicy, toasty wood accents along with big fruit flavors.  Notably more assertive than the restrained, stylish 2016, this is still undeniably excellent in its way, with dark berry fruit and savory undertones managing to hold their own despite the very prominent influence of new oak (25% in most vintages, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the percentage is higher in this 2017).  After my initial evaluation of this release, I kept it open on my tasting bench and returned to taste it on three subsequent evenings, knowing how well it absorbs its oak over time when cellared.  And sure enough, it became better over every successive day, with the fruit standing rock-solid in freshness and flavor impact while absorbing and integrating the oak.  I’d have continued this experiment if not for the fact that the wine was so delicious on day for that I polished off the bottle.  For the patient, this will prove immensely rewarding.       
94 Michael Franz Dec 1, 2020

San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Garnacha Tinta 2020 ($100, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  To the degree that the region of Toro has been famous at all (which it has been, to the degree possible for it based on the circulation of its wines, since at least 1500 BCE), it has been famous for big, assertive red wines deserving of an appellation meaning, simply, Bull.  Spain cares about bulls, as you may know, and not just anyplace could claim that name and get it to stick for more than half a millennium.  The thing is, that reputation was built on a local strain of Tempranillo that evolved in relation to local growing conditions so distinctly that it came to be called, “Tinta de Toro,” further cementing an association with a wine style that is quite distinct from what we would usually think about Garnacha (also known as Grenache in France and basically everywhere else, also).  On account of all this, almost nothing could prepare you for this wine, which is wonderfully lithe and fresh and bright and even delicate — though it has a sneaky power that shows itself only after multiple sips and especially after tasting the wine with food.  It really is a medium-bodied wine — though at the lighter end of that category — but one that offers much more flavor impact than one would expect.  These are based on beautiful aromas and flavors recalling red cherries and raspberries, with intricacies that could also be likened to strawberries or cranberries, but this is its own thing, prompting me to remind the reader that all of these descriptors are mere analogies.  San Román is one of Spain’s best bodegas, and though you could get the idea that this is just a flirtation with a variety that is “fun” for them to make, they’ve made terrific but small releases of this (as well as Malvasia) for years now.  The wines are terrific, and they warrant the search that will be necessary to find them.     
94 Michael Franz Aug 1, 2023

San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “San Román” 2019 ($70, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  The 2019 rendition of this (consistently outstanding) wine is certainly up to past vintages, and may very well surpass the 2018, which was more open and less oaky when I tasted it in late October of 2021.  I hasten to note that the fruit density of this 2019 is clearly up to the challenge of absorbing its oak load and attaining excellent equilibrium for many years thereafter.  The fact remains that equilibrium will require more time for this wine to attain, so lucky readers who have access to both bottles would be well advised to uncork the 2018 first and hold this in reserve.  It shows spicy, toasty oak notes with suggestions of freshly roasted coffee beans and cocoa powder around a core of intense dark cherry fruit.  Tasted again after the bottle had been standing open and uncorked for 24 hours, the fruit hadn’t dried out at all, and that underlines what a solid bet this is for positive development over time.          
94 Michael Franz Jul 26, 2022

Elias Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) "Daniel" 2003 ($49, Grapes of Spain): This wine may offer more pure pleasure than any red I have yet tasted in 2006, and to its credit, it is as pure as it is pleasurable. Ripe fruit notes of dark berries are immense and immensely appealing, with supporting notes of woodsmoke, spices, and subtle vanilla all contributing to the impressive complexity of the finished product. Concentrated and intensely flavorful, this will continue to develop for another 7-10 years, but those without cellars should not shy away, as it is thoroughly enjoyable now. 93 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Bodega Elías Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Tinto 2022 ($28, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This isn’t priced along the lines of everyone’s idea of an “entry-level” wine, but neither does it taste remotely like a basic offering.  The bouquet is complex and alluring at a very high level of expressiveness right after the cork is pulled, showing gorgeous fruit notes that are mostly red in “tone” but also with some black fruit shading, along with light toasty accents and a lovely spiciness.  All these notes are echoed on the palate, with medium body but a very high ratio of flavor to weight.  It is true — but nevertheless difficult to believe — that this was exposed to 100% new American oak, even if only for 6 months, as the wood notes lend complexity without remotely taking over the wine.  Immensely enjoyable now, with wonderful purity of fruit, this is still a serious wine with a serious future, during which it will improve for at least five years and maybe longer.           
92 Michael Franz May 21, 2024

Matsu, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “El Recio” 2020 ($21, Monsieur Touton Selection):  Matsu, which in Japanese means "to wait," is a tribute to all the wine growers who, for generations, have devoted their efforts, wisdom, respect, and sacrifice to working the vineyards.  Their label pays homage to three generations of winegrowers that provide their youth, maturity, and wisdom in the different moments of life.  As with many Spanish wine regions, Tempranillo goes by its local name here: Tinto de Toro.  The 2020 Matsu El Recio is not your everyday Tempranillo, as the expression in Toro has adapted to the frigid winters, sultry summers, and sandy, pebbly soil.  This wine opens up to a revelry of aromas of violets, tart dark fruits, and forest floor.  The palate is balanced and polished with plummy baked dark fruit and hints of herbs that fade into a floral finish.  This is a brilliant weekday wine that speaks volumes from its unique terroir.           
92 Miranda Franco Aug 29, 2023

Numanthia, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) "Termes" 2008 ($30, Moët Hennessey USA):  Toro, like so many other Spanish appellations, is undergoing a renaissance led, in no small measure, by Numanthia.  (The winery takes its name from the nearby town of Numancia).  They make three wines, Termanthia, Numanthia (which leads to the perseverating Numanthia’s Numanthia) and this one, Termes, distinguished chiefly by the age of the vines.  Termes comes from “young” vines, averaging--get this--30 to 50 years of age.  Tinto de Toro, thought to be in the Tempranillo family, is the grape of the region.  Termes is a fabulous introduction to the region and Numanthia.  Big and bold, yet not overdone, and with surprising elegance, it conveys more than just black fruit.  Earth, minerals and a host of hard to pin down flavors bombard the palate.  Like all of Numanthia’s wines, it has tremendous class, especially considering its size.  Its polish allows you to enjoy it now with hearty midwinter fare. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2012

San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) "Prima" 2017 ($24, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  taste this wine every year, and find it easy to recommend every year on account of its great consistency of style, but this 2017 stands as a departure.  It is very ripe (but not pruny at all, nor hot with alcohol), and shows this in the form of very soft, succulent fruit that is much more open and flamboyant than usual.  Additionally, this is the first release of the wine I’ve tasted that shows a slightly funky, earthy, Brettanomyces character, which actually makes the wine interestingly wild and more complex than usual.  The Brett does not overwhelm the wine at all (just makes it seem French!), though it will make drinking this earlier rather than later advisable.  That’s hardly a sacrifice or a flaw, as the ripe fruit makes this totally enjoyable now.  Food pairing?  Easy:  garlicky braised lamb shanks.  Bingo!       
92 Michael Franz Oct 13, 2020

San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Prima” 2019 ($25, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Like everything else in an environment where inflation is running at 9%, this wine is a bit more expensive than it may have been when you last purchased it, but it seems more pure and polished in almost every successive vintage, and the value of “Prima” is increasing — not decreasing.  The blend now includes 15% Garnacha, which seems unlikely in Toro, but this house’s varietal Garnacha is wonderful, as it its effect on this wine.  More supple and succulent than most previous vintages, this still shows admirable concentration and flavor impact, with dark cherry and berry fruit notes tinged with some red and blue tones as well — not to mention some alluring savory accents that are already emerging and lending real complexity at this early stage.  Sheesh — for 25 bucks, this should shame almost all of its competitors into hiding.          
92 Michael Franz Jul 26, 2022

Abelis Carthago, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza “Lui” 2008 ($20, The Spanish Wine Importers): The 2008 vintage one was excellent in north-central Spain, and it is a bit of a surprise to see an excellent one such as this still in circulation as the current release. I don’t know what explains that, but after a few sips of this wine, I didn’t much care to look a gift horse in the mouth. The wine shows rich, meaty texture with dark berry flavors and a spicy backnote. Wines from Toro are famed for power, and this one doesn’t disappoint on that score, but it also shows exceptional balance and integration, making the wine seem more like a thoroughbred than a bull.
91 Michael Franz Feb 19, 2013

Bodegas Elías Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Tinto Viñas 2021 ($28, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  I opened this along with several other roughly comparable reds, including one from another producer in Toro that I esteem highly, and this was clearly the most complete and enjoyable wine in the group.  It is made from relatively young vines averaging 20 years in age — but only “young” in the context of Toro, and especially for a wine priced at this level.  Regarding price, it is amazing that this was aged in 100% new oak barrels, all American ones in this case.  That could have been a recipe for a coconut and vanilla disaster (two notes that lesser American cooperage can impart that I cannot abide).  However, either the barrels were of high quality or the wine’s limited time in them (only 6 months) prevented those notes from resulting.  What did result was a pleasantly spicy, lightly toasty edge on a core of ripe, dark berry fruit that shows excellent integration with the wood and very fine balance of all components, including acidity and tannin.  This is remarkably delicious for its age and price.          
91 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2023

Elias Mora, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2011 ($28, Grapes of Spain): A lovely rendering of Tempranillo, this shows excellent balance that is rooted in perfect ripening of the fruit.  Although the wine is generously flavored and textured, it also shows fine freshness.  Moreover, the balance of oak and tannin to fruit is very well measured, leaving the wine with plenty of structure to improve for five years, but also making current enjoyment possible with food.  Lots of little nuances emerge from this wine with aeration, so decant this if serving it anytime soon.
91 Michael Franz Apr 1, 2014

Finca Sobreno, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2012 ($15, Kysela Pere et Fils): This is an excellent wine and an equally impressive value.  Perfectly mature but hardly played out, it has absorbed all of its oak and is very nicely integrated.  Despite its seamlessness, it is hardly simple or monolithic.  Subtle aromas of smoke and spices augment fruit notes that are mostly black in tone, but with some red shades as well.  The tannins are quite fine-grained and soft, but they lend enough grip to provide structure to the finish.  A steal at $15.
91 Michael Franz Dec 27, 2016

Maurodos, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) "Prima" 2011 ($24, Grapes of Spain):  This wine is always deeply delicious, but the rendition from 2011 is particularly attractive, with softer, more open character than usual.  The fruit is ripe but not obvious, with very appealing notes of dark cherries and berries accented by a moderate dose of spicy oak.  A very faint, pleasantly earthy backnote lends added interest.  Another terrific value from importer Aurelio Cabestrero.
91 Michael Franz Apr 1, 2014

Maurodos, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Prima” 2009 ($24, Grapes of Spain):  Dark and concentrated in keeping with the reputation of this appellation, this wine won’t disappoint anyone for lack of muscle.  However, it will surprise many tasters with its freshness and the strength of its acidity, which are quite remarkable in this vintage.  Dark cherry fruit and accents of spicy oak are very appealing, and the wine’s acidity and tannin will enable it to age very well while developing secondary aromas over the next decade--or two. 91 Michael Franz Jun 26, 2012

Prima, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2006 ($24, Grapes of Spain): The historically important region of Toro is famed for big, bold renditions of Tempranillo, which is a grape often known more for delicacy and power.  If you've never tasted a wine from the region, this would offer an excellent introduction, as it is dark, dense and concentrated, but still impressively complex even at this young age.  Dark cherry fruit seems a bit closed when the wine is first opened, but with decanting, it blossoms and softens, and before long you'll find very attractive accent notes of spices and woodsmoke that linger into the impressively long finish. 91 Michael Franz Dec 9, 2008

Bodegas y Vindedos Maurodos, Toro (Castilla y Leon, Spain) "San Román" 2003 ($60, Grapes of Spain): A concentrated, densely-packed red that is at the same time smooth and supple, this classy Spaniard needs a few years of cellaring in order to show its best.  Made from 100% Tempranillo (called Tinta de Toro in the Toro D.O.), it was aged for nearly two years in oak, and the wood influence does still seem a little raw.  But there is so much deep, rich fruit at the heart of this wine that a bit more time in bottle should bring everything into delectable harmony. 90 Paul Lukacs Jan 9, 2007

San Román, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2002 ($50, Grapes of Spain): The 2002 vintage was a difficult one in northern Spain, but you'd never know it from tasting this wine. Yes, it is a bit softer in structure and a bit more developed at this age than the wines of this bodega in other years, but there is no lack of depth, concentration or structure, and both the flavors and proportionality are extremely appealing. Soft notes of ripe blackberries and black plums lead the way, with oak notes well in the background. Full bodied but soft and rounded in texture, this is delicious and ready to roll, though it will no doubt perform well for another four or five years. 90 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Bodegas Fariña, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Dama de Toro” 2008 ($12, Specialty Cellars):  The region of Toro, in Castillo y Leon, is known for red wines made from Tinta de Toro, a local variant of Tempranillo, the grape name that appears on the label, no doubt for American consumers more familiar with Tempranillo than Tinta de Toro.  Blended with a small percentage of Garnacha (Grenache) then aged for four months in a combination of French and American oak, the wine has a deep purple-ruby color, ripe boysenberry aroma and flavors, supported by medium tannins and 3.5% alcohol.  There is substance, fruit in this value wine. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 1, 2011

Bodegas Fariña, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Gran Dama de Toro” 2004 ($45, Specialty Cellars):  The Gran Dama is the same blend of Tinta de Toro and Garnacha but this juicy wine was matured in French and American oak for 15 months.  A deep ruby color leads to a forward spicy nose with toasted nuances over low intensity fruit.  The flavors are fruity and supported by lots of American oak and big tannins, with hints of tobacco and blackberry.  The wine finishes at 14% alcohol with no heat.  The heft and density of this wine demand a few more years of bottle aging. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 1, 2011

Dama de Toro, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo 2009 ($12, Winebow):  Though the muscular signature of wines from Toro is apparent, this wine remains lively and well balanced.  There’s an engaging combination of spice, earthy notes and black cherry-like fruit.  Mild tannins impart structure in this mid-weight wine without intruding. It has more substance--as befitting a wine from this DO--than the winery’s Peromato (also reviewed this week). 89 Michael Apstein Nov 9, 2010

Dama de Toro, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo 2009 ($12, Winebow):  Though the muscular signature of wines from Toro is apparent, this wine remains lively and well balanced.  There’s an engaging combination of spice, earthy notes and black cherry-like fruit. Mild tannins impart structure in this mid-weight wine without intruding. It has more substance--as befitting a wine from this DO--than the winery’s Peromato (also reviewed this week). 89 Michael Apstein Oct 12, 2010

Maurodos, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2005 ($18, Grapes of Spain): This consistently fine wine is a winner once again in 2005.  Dark and quite rich, it is impressively concentrated, with delicious fruit recalling black cherries and plums.  Perfectly ripened, it is soft and round but still structured by fine-grained tannins, which a restrained dose of oak. 89 Michael Franz Aug 28, 2007

Prima, Toro (Castilla y Leon, Spain) 2004 ($17, Grapes of Spain): Top wines from Toro offer all the rich, ripe, concentrated fireworks of a top California Zinfandel. Yet, they also offer less and more: less alcohol and overt sweetness, and more dry extract and minerality. This wine hits all the right notes, leading with deep, dark fruit and augmenting it with plenty of spicy oak that is well balanced and integrated. Despite all of this flash, this isn't quite an in-your-face wine, and it offers some real class with all of that power, and manages all of this at a very attractive price. 89 Michael Franz Sep 5, 2006

Prima, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) 2004 ($17, Grapes of Spain): Top wines from Toro offer all the rich, ripe, concentrated fireworks of a top California Zinfandel. Yet, they also offer less and more: less alcohol and overt sweetness, and more dry extract and minerality. This wine hits all the right notes, leading with deep, dark fruit and augmenting it with plenty of spicy oak that is well balanced and integrated. Despite all of this flash, this isn't quite an in-your-face wine, and it offers some real class with all of that power, and manages all of this at a very attractive price. 89 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2006

Bodegas Fariña, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Dama de Toro” Crianza 2004 ($15, Specialty Cellars):  This blend of Tinta de Toro and Garnacha was aged for eight months in American oak, giving it vanilla and black pepper nuances.  The color is a deep ruby and the blackberry aromas follow through to the flavors.  There are firm full tannins and the wine has good structure and fruit, accented with vanilla and black pepper.  The finish is ripe and fruity with dark berry accents and 13.5% alcohol. 88 Gerald D. Boyd Mar 1, 2011

El Curato, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) Old Vines 2005 ($18, Grapes of Spain): This new wine from exemplary importer Aurelio Cabestrero shows excellent quality and for the money.  Oak is mercifully subtle, which permits the fruit to really shine with core notes of black cherry and nice little nuances of minerals and spices on the margins.  Medium-bodied, with no over-ripe or over-extracted elements, this is a relatively elegant Toro that will only get better and more complex for another five years. 88 Michael Franz Aug 28, 2007

El Curato, Toro (Castilla y León, Spain) “Old Vines” 2006 ($13, Grapes of Spain): Toro is a D.O. in the western center of Spain that has been famous for centuries for the power of its wines.  That reputation could prompt some confused head-scratching among those who taste this wine, which is quite fruity and forward.  The red cherry aromas and flavors are quite overt and immediate, with a notable sweetness that rides right through the finish, partially on account of an absence of tough tannins, and partially on account of the sheer exuberance of the fruit.  Oak influence is quite minimal, and a promising example for food pairing purposes would be something like a light but rather spicy preparation of pork. 87 Michael Franz Sep 23, 2008

Bodegas Elías Mora, Toro Crianza (Castilla y León, Spain) 2019 ($40, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This offering seemed surprisingly tart and acidic when the cork was first pulled, but opened up and broadened out in just a few minutes without any aeration or decanting.  Still, rather astringent tannins in the wine’s finish suggest that this needs more time in bottle to achieve a fully coherent profile.  One way to test that is to try the wine again a day later, which is exactly what I did with this wine and all the others reviewed below.  When re-tasted, the tannins had rounded out somewhat, but there was still clear room for improvement with aging, as the wine’s acidity was quite bright and a bit awkward in relation to the ripe sweetness of the fruit.  To be clear, I would be disappointed in a $40 wine that did not show a capacity for improvement from cellaring, so this is not a knock on this wine — just advice for how to treat it.  One more thing: $40 would seem like an insane price for Crianza if this were from Rioja, as that’s become a largely woeful category populated mostly by $15 wines that taste more like the inside of a barrel than like “wine.”  This is from 50-year-old, own-rooted bush vines, and is an utterly different animal.  It deserves cellaring, and it you don’t have the patience or space to do that, lean toward the 2018 “Descarte” from this house.           
92 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2023

Bodegas San Román, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) “Cartago Paraje del Pozo” 2016 ($170, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is probably the best newly released wine I’ve tasted in 2021, and we’re into late October as I’m writing this, so that’s saying something.  Only time will tell how great this wine will become as it approaches maturity, but time is very much on the side of this gorgeous, superbly balanced, remarkably intricate wine.  So deeply pigmented that there’s almost no “edge” to the wine even when tipped in a big glass under bright light, the impressiveness begins optically even before sniffing or tasting.  That initial impression is only corroborated on the nose and palate, as the wine shows excellent aromatic expressiveness and very deep flavors, but without the barest hint of excessive oak scents, or any overt heaviness in the mid-palate or finish, which is the magic of this 2016 vintage in several important appellations in Europe, ranging from Bordeaux to Barolo and beyond.  The fruit is especially pure in this vintage, showing dark cherry notes at its core but also other shadings of fresh berries, and though “purity” is the prime impression, the wine isn’t pure in an un-complex sense.  On the contrary, the different “shadings” I just referred to are evident to differing degrees from when the wine first touches one’s palate through the finish, and they also show themselves differently as the wine warms and breathes in the glass over time.  Oak spice is beautifully interwoven with the fruit flavors, and though wood impressions are somewhat assertive in this new release, they certainly don’t overwhelm the fruit at any point the sensory experience that the wine provides even now.  Still, there’s no doubt this will be significantly better in another 5 years, and better still in 10.  Beyond that, I’d be engaging in guesswork, but there’s no doubt this has a full decade of positive development ahead of it.  Truly a spectacular rendition of Tempranillo.        
98 Michael Franz Oct 26, 2021

Elias Mora, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) “Reserva” 2014 ($110, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  So, you tell me:  If a Spanish producer released two high-end wines, calling one “Gran Elias Mora” and the other “Elias Mora Reserva,” would you guess the first of the two was the more expensive flagship wine of the Bodega?  If so, we’d both be wrong, having been habituated to ranking “Gran” above “Reserva” among Spanish wines.  Either the producer has a rationale that escapes me, or maybe just a mischievous nature, but in any case, both wines are marvelous, and this one slightly my favorite of the two.  This 2014 release is even better than the 2012, which I adored; this shows even more concentration and intensity, and though it is a bit less open for early enjoyment, it more than makes up for that with extraordinary aging potential (20+ years from now) based on physical density but also balanced acidity, tannin and oak.  Sourced from the same single site as the “Gran” (the 80-year-old Senda del Lobo vineyard) but aged for 24 rather than 17 months in French oak, it combines exceptional depth of dark berry fruit flavor with very silky, fine-grained tannin that enables near-term enjoyment…even though this really deserves time in the cellar to blossom more fully.  It shows no more oak than the “Gran” 2015, and the fruit seems slightly more restrained in terms of ripeness, but make no mistake — this is a big, powerful wine despite the fact that it is also graceful and beautifully proportioned.  Sensational stuff.        
96 Michael Franz Jul 20, 2021

Bodegas San Román, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) “San Román” 2018 ($65, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is – and has been for two decades – one of Spain’s finest bodegas, and yet all the wines continue to show improvement, even accounting for the different character imparted by different growing seasons.  2018 was a cooler year, more along the lines of 2016 than either 2015 or 2017, and though this shows wonderful freshness as a result, it is definitely not short on the muscle suggested by this DO’s (i.e., appellation’s) name.  This is a highly expressive wine in the vintage, showing excellent detail in both aromatic and flavor terms already, though the track record of this wine assures a full decade of positive development.  Oak spice is evident on the nose but certainly not overbearing, and though wood tannins add a bit more grip than is optimal for current consumption, the wine isn’t overly rough for those who wish to try this now to determine whether to buy more for future consumption.  The fruit profile isn’t as ripe as in 2017, and the wine isn’t as soft and rounded as a result, but the inner energy is actually superior, and the aromas more intricate.  The crucial indication that this will develop from something extremely promising into something truly terrific shows up in the finish: the pure midpalate fruit notes initially give way to tannin and wood-derived astringency, but then the fruit re-asserts itself and smooths out the long finish, leaving ripe fruit flavors rather than wood or tannins as the last sensory impression.  Very impressive.          
95 Michael Franz Oct 26, 2021

Bodegas Ordóñez, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo "Vatan" 2016 ($35, Henry Wine Group):  Vatan is a pure representation of the Toro style from the oldest clone of Tempranillo in Spain and hails from some of the oldest un-grafted vines in the country.  Full-bodied, rich, and dense, this explodes with notes of blackcurrant, fig, cocoa, crushed violet, and ground pepper.  The palate is coated with powerful yet ripe tannins.  Most remarkable is the freshness and balance for wine so dense.  This effort will put most reds from Napa, Tuscany, and Bordeaux to shame at its $35 price tag.        
94 Miranda Franco Dec 29, 2020

Elias Mora, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) “Gran Elias Mora” 2015 ($90, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Pardon my French — especially in relation to a Spanish wine — but this is kick-ass juice from a big, ripe vintage, and you will not soon forget it almost regardless of when you taste it, whether that’s now or 20 years from now.  The aromas are assertively spicy and toasty, which makes sense given that the wine was aged in 100% new French oak for 17 months.  On the palate, the fruit is imposingly concentrated and deep in flavor, and the physical weight of the wine is again quite formidable.  In most cases, these characteristics show up in what I call, “Statement Wines,” in which a winemaker or proprietor is trying to impress or “make a statement” rather than craft something beautiful and enjoyable.  But in this case, what you get is…precisely something beautiful and enjoyable.  Beware that this is a wine that will benefit greatly from time in the cellar, but with that caveat stated, it is so proportional and so skillfully made that you could certainly enjoy it now with some very serious meat or fine aged cheese.  I found this hard to score because it is so big but yet so well behaved, rather like a polite bull, and how does one understand a polite bull?  But the point is, if my score is off, I made sure it was off on the low side, so buy this with confidence for a special occasion.        
94 Michael Franz Jul 20, 2021

Elias Mora, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) “Descarte” 2017 ($65, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This wine always catches me a bit off guard, and has managed to do so ever since the first vintage I tasted.  When I first saw the label, my guess that it was near the low end of this producer’s offerings, but was wrong about that.  Then, as a professor of political philosophy, I still couldn’t look at the label without thinking of René Descartes, but there’s no reason to think he has anything to do with the wine’s name, so that one is on me.  But then, taking the playing card image on the label seriously, I figured the name meant “discard” in English, but that made no sense either, as this is so good that it is obviously not made from discarded fruit or juice or wine lots.  So then I looked up the word in Spanish, only to learn that it does indeed mean “discard” in English, but it makes no sense that someone would choose what we could paraphrase, “Here’s something I chose to throw away” as a name for a premium wine.  So now I’m reduced to just guessing, which like all Ph.D.’s I hate to do unless I’m playing “Charades,” but here we go:  Based on the fact that the vineyard plot underlying this is north-facing, which might well have been a Northern Hemisphere disadvantage prior to climate  prior to climate change, I’m guessing that the fruit from these vines might once have been though unfit for fine wine but are now valued for the freshness and purity that the wine displays, and that “Discard” is a backhanded play on this irony.  But I’m sure you are tiring of my speculations, so let’s say this:  The wine shows wonderful purity and even delicacy, with very classy oak notes that are notable but subtle, followed by mid-palate sensations that begin with polished impressions but then display more power as the wine unfolds, showing lots of linear drive and more depth than its weight would have suggested it could muster.  That’s a surprise right there, and then the wine’s finish provides yet another surprise, with gracefulness and length that belies the power that preceded it.  In brief, this is beguiling wine, and delicious too.           
93 Michael Franz Jul 20, 2021

Elias Mora, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2018 ($40, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  In the northwest of Castille, immediately around Toro, the Tempranillo grape is known as "Tinta de Toro" – ink of the bull.  The local strain of Tempranillo has evolved over centuries to cope with hot days in summer and very cold nights for much of the year, and is often not trained on wires but rather “head pruned” as low-yielding “bush vines."  This 2018 Tinta de Toro from Bodegas Elias Mora is a prime example of the region's ability to produce bold and expressive wines.  Blackberries, ripe plums, and hints of cherries are interwoven with a layer of clove, graphite and dark chocolate, contributing to the wine's complexity.  The tannins are firm yet well-integrated, providing structure without being overpowering.  There’s no doubt that this wine has the structure and balance to age for at least a decade more.  If drinking now, consider decanting to allow the wine to fully express its incredible depth and complexity.          
93 Miranda Franco Feb 6, 2024

Elias Mora, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2016 ($40, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Although this terrific Crianza release will ultimately outlive and probably surpass the 2017 Tinto from Elias Mora, it is only barely the better wine in the near term except for those who love oak spice and expect it from their Spanish reds.  To be clear, though, the oak is beautifully measured to accent the fruit, which is itself so rich and sappy that it can easily handle the spicy, toasty notes without being overwhelmed.  Indeed, the core of fruit is so concentrated and compelling that I’m tempted to write “bloody” rather than “sappy,” as the rich texture and salty undertones really do taste like a bloody lip in the wake of one of the pond hockey fights of my youth.  Not everyone would like that simile, of course, but the Spanish know a bit about bull’s blood…which is surely what this region was named for in the Middle Ages, rather than bulls themselves.  Terrific now with food but really crafted for a decade’s worth of cellaring, you can use it according to your preferences and hit the mark either way.   
93 Michael Franz Aug 18, 2020

Elias Mora, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) “Descarte” 2015 ($65, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This wine shows its cards from the outset, which is a bad pun based on the label’s design, but a true account of how it presents itself to the eye, nose and palate.  Very deeply pigmented and quite apparently rich and viscous in its physical appearance when swirled, it is evidently formidable juice.  The pleasant surprise is that it doesn’t show all of its cards at first blush, as the oak in this 2015 release is actually more reserved and reticent than in this Bodega’s 2016 Crianza, seeming more French than American, and more sweet than toasty.  In any case, the result is a completely alluring wine, with succulent fruit notes predominant in the bouquet, showing quite full ripeness as one would expect from this quite warm vintage, but no raisiny or over-ripe notes.  The flavors are again all about lavish fruit, with impressive density but no excess weight, as there’s enough acidity to provide focus and energy.  There’s also plenty of tannin, but it is swaddled in so much plushy fruit that the wine shows no hard edges, even though it is sufficiently structured to develop over the course of at least 6 – 8 years, during which time it will become even more interesting as tertiary notes from bottle age add savory notes to the lovely core of fruit.  Deal me in.    
93 Michael Franz Aug 18, 2020

Bodegas San Román, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) "Prima" 2018 ($25, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Although this is the entry-level wine from Bodegas San Román, it would be a bad mistake to underestimate it, as it is exceptionally well made and among the very best wines made anywhere in the world at its price level.  Although recent vintages are easier to enjoy when young, as they are less oaky (this is true also for the “San Román” bottling, due to the introduction of a high-end “Cartago” bottling in 2013 that has garnered more of the newly purchased barrels), this is still a sturdy and serious wine that manifestly merits either cellaring or consumption upon release, and rewards either of these choices handsomely.  Restaurant buyers should be particularly attentive to this, as the wine can be a hit on the floor as soon as it is delivered, but also improve almost however long it sits in inventory.  My bottle was actually better 24 hours after being tasted initially, which is very impressive for a wine in this price category; the fruit was still fresh, the integration of fruit, wood, acidity and tannin was even more impressive, and the wine had picked up savory undertones that didn’t show as expressively immediately after opening.  In sensory terms, this is really a medium-bodied wine that offers the aromatic and flavor impact of a full-bodied one, making for great versatility with food: it won’t overwhelm a dish based on pork or even chicken, but can pair beautifully with lamb or beef without being remotely washed out.  Almost every $25 wine should run and hide if threatened with a head-to-head comparison with this wine.         
92 Michael Franz Oct 26, 2021

Elias Mora, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Tinto 2017 ($28, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  My score of 92 may seem a bit high for an entry-level wine, but I have every confidence that you’ll agree that I’ve got it right if you taste this delicious offering.  A persistent problem in wine criticism is that wines are often scored in a scaled way conforming to where they stand in a series, price wise, from particular producers.  But the fact is, modestly oaked Tempranillo from the high plain of central Spain provides some of the most fabulously pure, satisfyingly delicious fruit in all the world of wine.  This is a stellar case in point.  Darkly colored and deeply concentrated, it shows its seriousness immediately, but then its playful side emerges in the form of very expressive aromas and flavors showing both red and black tones, with almost no overt oak but a very appealing undertone of saline minerality.  Full-bodied but still fresh, formidable but still fruity and fun, this is terrific young Toro.   
92 Michael Franz Aug 18, 2020

Elias Mora, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Crianza 2017 ($40, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Proprietor and winemaker Victoria Benavides releases muscular but graceful wines under the “Elias Mora” label, which was the name of the former owner of the vineyard.  Who names their wines after somebody else, once they’ve purchased the assets, regardless of the forerunner’s contribution?  Nobody in California, for sure, but a respectful person I hope to meet someday, in this case.  This bottling is the least expensive of the four current releases from the bodega that I recently tasted side-by-side, yet it neither looks nor tastes like an “entry level wine.”  Very deeply pigmented, with medium-plus body and excellent depth of flavor, it shows an impressive array of complexities atop a core of dark cherry and blackberry fruit.  There’s notable oak influence that shows mostly in the aromas and in some spicy flavor accents but virtually no wood tannin.  Consequently, the wine’s overall impression is of pure, perfectly ripened fruit, and there’s really no need to hold this to allow the oak to be absorbed.  Cellaring is still advisable, as the fruit will hold its purity and power for years, during which time “bottle bouquet” will add additional layers of aroma and flavor.     
92 Michael Franz Jul 20, 2021

Vatan, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Tinta De Toro 2016 ($35):  The Beast!  This is a huge wine from central Spain, showing yet another facet of the great Tempranillo grape variety.  Full throttle black cherry fruit is joined by bright oak spice and a touch of menthol, and these all ride supple tannins through an extended tarry finish.  I would go straight to the cheese course with this one, and the bolder the cheese, the better. 
92 Rich Cook May 5, 2020

Elias Mora, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Tinto 2018 ($28, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is the first 2018 vintage wine I’ve tasted from Toro, and it has me smacking my lips in anticipation of the wines still to be released.  There’s not much suspense about those wines being even richer in texture and deeper in flavor than this one, with more complexity from newer oak and more potential for improvement over the long term.  However, there really is some suspense over whether they’ll be any more delicious than this bottling, especially for the vast majority of wine lovers who drink what they buy within the first few months of purchase.  If you fall into that camp, give this a go.  It shows all the best characteristics of a relatively new breed of wines from nearby Ribera del Duero that are minimally oaked (with the period of oak aging indicated on the front or back label) and styled with pure Tempranillo in the forefront, and it is every bit as good as any of them.  In this case, the wood aging was six months in duration, but I got that from the importer’s website rather than the label, and the variety is Tinta de Toro, which is Tempranillo—but named by reference to a local mutation that has adapted to Toro’s growing conditions over a long span of time.  Medium-plus in body, but quite soft in texture, with mostly black-toned fruit flavors, this is a joy to sip on its own already (at least of those of us who love young red wines with some tannic grip), but still with enough stuffing and texture to work well with moderately robust foods like seared pork chops.  The acidity, oak, tannin and fruit are already quite seamlessly integrated, and the wine still shows lively primary fruit characteristics, but isn’t remotely “grapey” or obvious.  The wine is utterly flawless, and if that was the same as “perfect,” this would earn 100 points rather than 91 — which is the right score for a wine that is impeccably made at this level of complexity and capacity to improve.  Trust me…you’ll love it, or I’ll shovel your snow for the rest of the winter.         
91 Michael Franz Feb 16, 2021

Finca Sobreño, Toro DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo Crianza 2019 ($15): Here is a Tempranillo with some weight and depth at an impressive quality to price ratio.  With Spanish wines I find that the Crianza designation doesn’t necessarily mean that the wine doesn’t have any staying power.  Enjoy this now for youthful vigor, bold fruit and earthy character, or let it soften up over the next few years if you prefer more nuance.     
91 Rich Cook Dec 27, 2022

Bodegas Elías Mora, Toro Reserva (Castilla y León, Spain) 2015 ($110, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is a phenomenally delicious wine, and though it will surely improve for a decade or more, but one doesn’t need to hold it for anywhere near that long for it to be enjoyable enough to justify its asking price.  Very rich and with a deep, soft core of dark fruit, this is surprisingly approach able and even charming for a wine that packs a very serious punch.  The fruit is sourced entirely from 80-year-old vines in the Senda del Lobo vineyard, and deserves the 24 months of aging to which it was treated in French oak barrels.  Tasted again 24 hours after it was first opened, it had neither improved nor lost any of its initial appeal, reaffirming my sense that this faces zero risk of going into decline anytime soon, but is also ready to enjoy with robust food.      
95 Michael Franz Jun 6, 2023

Dehesa la Granja, Vadillo de la Guareña (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Selección” 2000 ($30, Classical Wines): This wine is sourced from the general neighborhood of the Toro D.O., yet does not bear that designation.  This will seem like a matter of no consequence whatsoever once you experience how much character and class was packed into this bottle, which features beautifully ripened Tempranillo fruit that is accented with just the right dose of spicy, smoky oak.  Now showing secondary notes from bottle age, it still retains plenty of primary fruit, and may actually develop additional complexities if permitted another couple of years before opening. 91 Michael Franz Feb 10, 2009

Bodegas Fariña, Vina de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon (Castilla y León, Spain) “Peromato” 2009 ($10, Winebow):  In addition to this wine, Bodegas Fariña also produces the Dama de Toro line from, not surprisingly, the Toro region.  Though this one and their wines from Toro are 100% Tempranillo, they are quite different.  Tasting them side-by-side, which I recommend, reminds us of the importance of where the grapes grow.  Although this one is lighter in weight than the Dama de Toro Tempranillo (also reviewed this week), the major difference is its focus on the fruit--cherry-like signature--of Tempranillo.  With hardly noticeable tannins, it’s a red wine that could be chilled slightly for warm weather consumption.  It’s a well-made--and very well priced--everyday kind of wine. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 12, 2010

Marques de Riscal, Vino de la Tierra Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Riscal 1860” 2005 ($8, Shaw Ross International): Marques de Riscal is one of the leading Rioja producers.  They have branched out from their Rioja home to create this Tempranillo-based wine from grapes grown in Spain's vast central plateau, an area not well known for producing quality wine.  But this area is home to some great vineyards as well as vast tracts of ordinary vines, and talented producers such as Marques de Riscal can do wonders with grapes grown in less exalted land.  This 'simple' Tempranillo has unusual class and complexity--New World fruitiness and Old World earthiness--at this price.  A great value, don't pass on this balanced, suave wine. 89 Michael Apstein May 15, 2007

Finca Río Negro, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) "992" 2014 ($17, Siema): Based on the interesting design of the capsule atop this wine’s cork, I’d guess that “992” is a reference to the altitude of the vineyard, which is pretty plausible (in meters) for this part of Spain.  There’s no need to guess about the blend, however, as the back label indicates 55% Tempranillo, 20% Syrah, 15% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  If you aren’t persuaded of the need for French grape varieties in a region that makes magic from Tempranillo on its own, I’d be with you, but if you have any argument with how this wine turned out, you’re on your own.  Leaning toward full-bodied in profile, with dark fruit and tastefully restrained oak and quite fine-grained tannins, this will be terrific with any robust dish from roast duck all the way up to grilled lamb.
92 Michael Franz Dec 27, 2016

Tapeña, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Garnacha 2005 ($9, Freixenet USA): It couldn't have been easy to get this much fun into a bottle costing just nine bucks, but you'll find it very easy indeed to get nine bucks worth of pleasure out of it.  The first glass alone may well accomplish that for you.  Simple, perhaps, but simply delicious, this features classic Garnacha notes of fresh red cherries with nice little accents of spices around the edges.  The French and Australians can do well with this grape, but bottles like this underline the fact that it is most at home in Spain. 87 Michael Franz Mar 20, 2007

Maximo, Vino de La Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo 2006 ($10, Frederick Wildman): Grupo Baron de Ley, the Spanish company that owns the quality Rioja producers El Coto and Baron de Ley, also produces this more 'modern' style wine from the center of Spain.  Its juicy red fruit flavors jump at you, but the black cherry acidity reminds you that its feet are style rooted in Spain.  A hint of spice from brief aging in a combination of American and French oak barrels adds complexity.  A wonderful buy for everyday drinking. 86 Michael Apstein Dec 30, 2008

Tapeña, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Tempranillo 2005 ($10, Freixenet USA): Made by the Ferrer family who owns the Spanish sparkling wine (Cava) house, Freixenet, Tapeña Tempranillo is an easy-to-drink, fruit forward, cheery kind of wine. 86 Michael Apstein May 22, 2007

Volteo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo/Shiraz 2009 ($11, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.):  This blend from Ramón Bilbao, a leading Rioja producer, delivers a juicy mixture of red and black fruit flavors.  Bright and robust, it has polished tannins that make it perfect for hearty fare now. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2012

Tierras de Luna, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon (Castilla y León, Spain) 2005 ($30, Grapes of Spain): This wine, crafted by Luna Beberide (a highly noteworthy Bierzo producer) shows lots of elegance and class.  The fruit is medium-bodied, with very pretty notes of red and black cherries accented with just a light whiff of toasty oak.  The tannins are apparent, lending grip to the finish, but they impart almost no astringency, and are perfectly weighted to the fruit.  Although this 2005 vintage has already had a few years to develop, it is still full of primary fruit, and will certainly become more complex and interesting as it ages, and will not likely hit its peak for another three or four years. 89 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2009

Bodegas Fariña, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon (Castilla y León, Spain) “Peromato” 2009 ($10, Winebow):  In addition to this wine, Bodegas Fariña also produces the Dama de Toro line from, not surprisingly, the Toro region.  Though this one and their wines from Toro are 100% Tempranillo, they are quite different.  Tasting them side-by-side, which I recommend, reminds us of the importance of where the grapes grow.  Although this one is lighter in weight than the Dama de Toro Tempranillo (also reviewed this week), the major difference is its focus on the fruit--cherry-like signature--of Tempranillo.  With hardly noticeable tannins, it’s a red wine that could be chilled slightly for warm weather consumption.  It’s a well-made--and very well priced--everyday kind of wine. 87 Michael Apstein Nov 9, 2010

Luna Beberide, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León (Spain) "Tierras de Luna" 2001 ($29, Grapes of Spain): This is a deeply serious wine. Comprised of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tempranillo, 15% Merlot and 15% Mencia, all grown in a marvelous vintage, this is very powerful and intense. The fruit notes are all black, with currents leading the way. Tarry, roasted meat notes and lots of fine-grained tannin make this a formidable partner for the most robust foods, so think lamb shanks and hearty stews. 91 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Abadia Retuerta, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2006 ($21, Kobrand): An internationally-styled red, displaying lush, red berry and dark cherry flavors and a sumptuously soft texture, this wine is a blend of Tempranillo (75%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), and Merlot (5%).  The Avadia Retuerta estate dates to the twelfth century, but the winery was only established in 1996, and the wine definitely reflects a contemporary vision.  Fruit-driven, with wood (French barrels) playing a supporting role, it has pliant tannins so proves very easy to sip and enjoy.  Though it may not taste distinctively Spanish, let alone Castilian, it is undeniably delicious. 90 Paul Lukacs Nov 17, 2009

Tempra Tantrum, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Tempranillo/Merlot 2008 ($10, Underdog Wine Merchants):  This brand was created by Rocio Osborne, who represents the younger generation of the famous Spanish Osborne winemaking family, to put a youthful, modern, easy-drinking spin on traditional Spanish wine.  The two-variety blend has spicy aromas of red berries and cherries, along with bright flavors of red fruit and spice.  Medium bodied, with good balance and acidity. 86 Tina Caputo May 11, 2010

Tempra Tantrum, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Tempranillo/Shiraz 2008 ($10, Underdog Wine Merchants):  This simple-but-tasty red has aromas of spice and red fruit, along with ripe red fruit flavors and a slight bit of sweetness.  It’s just the wine for simple fare, like pasta with marinara and backyard burgers. 86 Tina Caputo Jun 8, 2010

Abadia Retuerta, Vino de Pago (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo Pago Negralada 2017 ($100, Europvin):  Spain’s system of classifying selected single vineyards as “pagos” or crus as part of a nationwide network which has no geographic commonality except the country itself is an interesting concept from a marketing aspect if nothing else.  This well-known pago is essentially a Ribera del Duero Tempranillo, and a very delicious one that is similar in style to a Left Bank Bordeaux.  It has great structure with full blackberry and cassis flavors, a lean texture, well-integrated barrel flavors and dusty tannins.  This is one of those wines that will slowly evolve in the bottle if you want to wait but which is very enjoyable now.    
92 Roger Morris Nov 7, 2023

Rosé:

Pitticum , Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Mencia “Petit” Rosé 2016 ($10, Baron Francois): This irresistible rosé is bursting with fresh ripe fruit counterbalanced by bouncy acidity.  Its most distinguishing, though subtle, feature may be the thread of saline minerality that gives it exceptional character and makes you want to keep refilling your glass.  This exuberant pink wine is one of the most perfectly equilibrated and delightful rosés that I’ve sampled in a long time.  It makes a great aperitif wine and can accompany a range of foods, including anything with ham, and light pasta dishes (try it with pasta vongole or spaghetti al pesto for example).  Includes 5% Godello.
93 Marguerite Thomas May 9, 2017

Tapeña, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Rosé 2008 ($10, Freixenet USA): There is no time of the year better than any other for enjoying a rosé wine, but summer is the near ideal season.  Tapeña, the value-wine line from Spain's Cava producer, Frexenet, has crafted a juicy pink wine from Monastrell (aka Mourvedre, not a common grape for rosés), Garnacha (aka Grenache) and Shiraz with an electric pink color, forward ripe strawberry aromas, dry palate with lush fruit flavors and crisp acidity.  The wine finishes with 13% alcohol and loads of juicy fruit and is a great value-match with casual meals. 89 Gerald D. Boyd May 5, 2009

Tapeña, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Rosé 2008 ($10, Freixenet USA): A juicy blend of Monastrell (55%), Garnacha (40%), and Syrah (5%), this fruit-filled rosé should make for satisfying aperitif sipping all summer long.  It's chock-full of strawberry fruit flavor, and with a fuller body than many rosés, tastes slightly sweet.  Although drier wines probably will work better at the dinner table, this wine is very tasty on its own.  And the price sure seems right.
86 Paul Lukacs Jun 16, 2009

Sparkling:

Palacio de Bornos, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo Frizzante NV ($13, Kysela Pere et Fils Ltd):  This fun little Spanish sparkler is quite sweet but it isn’t really cloying thanks to good lashing of acidity on finish.  With a mere 5.5% alcohol, it can serve many different purposes.  Treat it as a cocktail wine before dinner, for example.  It also makes a good brunch wine, or simply a refreshing end-of-the-day sipper. 
89 Marguerite Thomas Apr 30, 2019

White:

Bodegas y Vinedos Raúl Pérez, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Godello "Ultreia" 2020 ($33, Skurnik Wines): This fresh, bright, textured varietal Godello from Bierzo comes from celebrated Spanish winemaker Raúl Pérez — the driving force behind some of Spain's most exciting wines.  Pérez's 2020 Godello has juicy flavors of stone fruit, peach skin, and lemon peel with a slight saline edge.  It is rich and round on the palate, with razor-like acidity, and finishes with a long and deeply savory mineral finish.  Simply put, this is downright delicious!     
94 Miranda Franco Sep 6, 2022

Abad dom Bueno, Bierzo (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Godello 2008 ($18, Frontier Wine Imports):  Godello is a grape little known around the world, but those who have experienced top renditions from the northwest of Spain are aware that this (still rare) grape can make amazing wines.  This is one of them.  Wonderfully aromatic, with scents of ripe melons and dried herbs, it shows real substance and depth of flavor on the palate, with the melon notes joined by tropical and citrus fruit notes as well, lending both weight and freshness.  Medium-bodied but still very fresh, the wine is quite complex but the notes are all very well integrated.  On top of all these virtues, the back label indicates that the wine contains only naturally occurring sulfites, and that no other sulfites were added.  It can be exceedingly difficult to make fresh and stable wines in this way, and nobody without a fierce commitment to quality would bother to try.  That commitment shows in the wine’s quality, making it a very desirable drink--quite regardless of whether one cares about sulfites. 93 Michael Franz Jan 12, 2010

Bodegas Madai, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Godello "Origen" 2019 ($20, SAWM Imports):  Curious about Godello?  This intriguing rendition of the grape from a small producer in northwest Spain's Bierzo region presents a wonderful opportunity to explore the variety.  The 2019 Madai Godello is fresh, mineral-rich, and well worth seeking out.   Bright acidity bolsters the structure of this Godello, which is reminiscent of white Burgundy.  The palate has a lovely combination of apple, peach, sea salt, chalk, and almond notes that deliver a refreshing experience.      
92 Miranda Franco Aug 3, 2021

Bodegas Emilio Moro, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Godello “Polvorete” 2021 ($20, Touton):  Godello smells and tastes like a theoretical mash-up of Riesling, Albariño and Chardonnay.  The 2021 Polvorete Godello is supremely fresh, light, and easy to drink.  It offers a bouquet recalling nectarines, honeysuckle, and thyme.  Fresh peach and pineapple flavors are joined by vivid acidity that evaporates into a bright finish with enough complexity to keep it interesting, leaving a lingering impression of fresh fruit and a delicate mineral edge.            
90 Miranda Franco May 21, 2024

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Castilla y León, Spain) Godello 2009 ($22, Grapes of Spain): Albariño remains Spain’s leading white grape variety in terms of prominence and worldwide recognition, but among insiders the jury is still out on whether Godello or Verdejo might not ultimately surpass it.  This wine shows why this is remains a disputed matter, and it shows it with lovely fruit flavors recalling peaches and baked apples that are undergirded by fresh acidity and an interesting mineral tinge in the finish.  90 Michael Franz Oct 19, 2010

Arroyo de la Viega, Castilla y León (Spain) Verdejo/ Viura 2007 ($10, Vignobles LVDH USA): Another value-priced vivacious-tasting white from central Spain, this wine tastes of pears, with a hint of honey, and has an attractive waxy or viscous texture that should enable it to hold its own with full-flavored seafood and poultry dishes.  At a mere $10, it's a super bargain. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 31, 2009

Menade, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2018 ($16, Eric Solomon / European Cellars):  Made from organically farmed grapes, this is the best Verdejo from Rueda I’ve tasted in a couple of years, and my work takes me through a lot of bottles in this category.  The melon and stone fruit aromas and flavors are exceptionally pure, without the barest hint of sulfur (which is the Achilles Heel of this wine category…far too many wines are marred by overt sulfur scents).  Subtle mineral notes lend added interest to the finish, but what is most exceptional about this is the perfect balance of fruit and acidity.  And when I write “perfect,” I mean perfect:  The citrusy acidic edge rides along the juicy fruit notes in perfect proportionality from the instant the wine hits one’s tongue to the very end of the long, symmetrical finish.  An absolute standout.  I showed this to 32 tasters in a wine class, and all 33 of us loved the wine.  
93 Michael Franz Nov 5, 2019

Álvarez y Diez, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Sauvignon Blanc “Mantel Blanco” 2021 ($19, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero): The 2021 rendition of this wine is every bit the equal of this producer’s Verdejo, which is saying something, as the Verdejo is terrific in this vintage, and my experience indicates that Verdejo is the superior variety in the terroir of Rueda, even though Sauvignon has more cachet internationally.  Be that as it may, this wine trumpets its virtues at high volume, and there’s no denying them:  Richness on the level of what one would expect from top global sources for this style such as Collio in Italy or South Styria in Austria, but with excellent balance based on varietally-indicative herbal and citrus notes.  This is very close to as rich and ripe as I like my Sauvignon, so my personal preference would be to drink this over the next 6 to 8 months, and then keep an eye open for what this producer manages in 2022.           
92 Michael Franz Aug 2, 2022

Álvarez y Diez, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo “Mantel Blanco” 2021 ($18, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero): This outstanding example of Verdejo from Rueda is showing beautifully at this point in early August of the year following when the grapes were harvested — which is exactly when we need outstanding Verdejo.  At once opulent and racy, it combines impressive concentration and ripe (even tropical) fruit aromas and flavors, but they are very effectively counterbalanced by bright citrus notes and acidity.  The effect is a bit uncanny, as it really shouldn’t be possible for a wine to be both opulent and racy, but tasting is believing.  To be clear, this doesn’t have the palate weight of, say, Semillon, but it isn’t far off, and it isn’t as racy as Sauvignon Blanc (including that from this excellent producer), but again, it is close in that respect too.  One more thing:  I still had one bottle of this same wine from 2020 in my cellar, and cracked it to taste alongside this 2021.  The 2020 is still delicious, and though I prefer the 2021 at this moment, the stability of the 2020 shows that you can buy the 2021 now and enjoy it for many months ahead — well past August and into oyster season when things turn cold again.      
92 Michael Franz Aug 2, 2022

Bodega Reina de Castilla, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2018 ($14, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage):  This is the sort of Verdejo to make converts among those who’ve never experienced an excellent rendition of this variety from Rueda.  Very overtly juicy and expressive, it is driven by fruity aromas and flavors that include the distinct categories of stone fruits, citrus, and tropical fruits -- in that order.  It shows none of the grassiness that sometimes makes Verdejo seem not-so-distinct from Sauvignon Blanc, nor any of the excessive sulfur that sometimes mars Rueda Verdejo when made by excessively cautious producers.  Beautifully balanced by fresh acidity that keeps all that juicy fruit from tasting like the famous chewing gum bearing that name, this is a great choice for summer sipping or for tableside use with all sorts of finfish or shellfish dishes.  
92 Michael Franz Jul 9, 2019

Bodegas Angel Rodríquez/Martínsancho, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo “Martínsancho” 2010 ($18, Classical Wines from Spain):  Angel Rodríquez is credited with saving the Verdejo grape from extinction by refusing to replace it in the 1970s with more prolific varieties, such as Viura and Palomino, in his Martínsancho vineyard.  I, like so many others, would like to thank him.  The 2010 Martínsancho shows a glorious combination of subtle herbal notes intertwined with a hint of creaminess.  More mineraly than fruity, it has a rich texture without being heavy.  A vibrant citrus finish magnifies its complexity.  This is benchmark Rueda. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2012

Egeo, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2017 ($14, Grapes of Spain):  This is among the best Rueda Verdejos I’ve ever tasted, and certainly the best vintage of this wine (and I’ve tasted almost all of the vintages that have been imported to the USA).  It shows a truly medium-bodied profile, whereas most of its counterparts are light, and yet its unusual heft doesn’t come at the cost of any lack of freshness.  On the contrary, it backs up its flavors of melon and figs with very zesty citrus acidity that focuses the flavors through the long, generous finish.  Very expressive in aroma and flavor, and supremely versatile at the table, this is a standout wine at a great price. 
92 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2018

José Pariente, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2008 ($23, Grapes of Spain): One of the very best Verdejos from Rueda year after year, this wine shows exceptional integration of its aromatic and flavor components.  Lemon/ lime fruit is fresh and quite expressive, with a lightly grassy aromatic profile that is a bit like fine Sauvignon.  However, there are also notes of dried herbs and minerals that are quite distinctive, and the wine also shows an extra measure of lift thanks to a bit of unresolved carbon dioxide.  If you’ve never tasted a Verdejo and are in the market for a reference-point rendition, this is the ticket. 92 Michael Franz Aug 4, 2009

Shaya, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo Old Vine 2008 ($15, Country Vintner):  A simply stunning example of what may be the contemporary wine market’s best kept and most exciting secret--namely, the fact that contemporary Spanish whites can hold their own  with top-notch whites made just about anywhere.  Not too long ago, many people (including many vintners) thought the country too hot for quality white wine.  Now, however, due to cleaner, temperature-controlled vinification, the best Spanish whites taste truly compelling.  This example, made with old vine grapes, exhibits fresh citrus and stone fruit flavor, augmented by echoes of pine, dried herbs, and savory spice.  It has a wondrously long, layered finish, and displays near perfect balance.  Fantastic! 92 Paul Lukacs Jan 12, 2010

Bodegas Tionio, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2010 ($18, The Spanish Wine Importers):  One of the most interesting and complex Verdejos that I’ve tasted all year, this wine is endearing from start to (long) finish.  Expressive aromas recalling lavender and dried herbs are very appealing, followed by light but flavorful, citrus-tinged fruit that proves very persistent.  The proportions are just right, making this a wine that beckons one back for sip after sip. 91 Michael Franz Dec 27, 2011

Egeo, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2012 ($12, Grapes of Spain): Very few bottlings of Verdejo at any price can out-perform this one, but odds are very slim that any example at this price will show comparable complexity and overall quality.  It features expressive aromas of dried herbs and freshly cut grass followed by zesty citrus flavors.  Although it is light enough to dance with a delicate partner such as a raw oyster, it delivers enough flavor from its light profile to stand up to many fin fish and chicken dishes.
91 Michael Franz Feb 18, 2014

Fuente Elvira, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2009 ($17, Grapes of Spain):  Full of aroma and flavor and character, this is yet another impressive Verdejo from Rueda (located north and west of Madrid) indicating that these wines are rapidly overtaking Albariño as Spain’s most noteworthy whites.  It shows intense aromatic notes of cut straw and lavender, followed by piercing citrus flavors and a long, bright finish. 91 Michael Franz Aug 3, 2010

Basa, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Blanco 2007 ($12, Vintus): Made from Verdejo, Viura, and a splash of Sauvignon Blanc, this vivacious white smells of citrus fruit enhanced by honeysuckle and jasmine, and tastes of lemons and grapefruits.  It's a sensuous, seductive package.  I'm not quite sure that I understand why such delectable white wines are coming from hot Spanish vineyards these days.  When I taste a wine like this, though, I'm sure glad that they are. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 24, 2009

Campos de Sueños, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2011 ($12, Bacchus Imports Ltd): If you don’t know Verdejo you’re missing out on one of summer’s best white wines.  And if you do know Verdejo but haven’t tried Campos de Sueños yet, you’re in for a treat!  The dominant impression is of fresh fruity flavors uncomplicated by the presence of oak, but don’t mistake it for a simple frou-frou wine--there’s lots of zesty floral fragrance here, plus layers of bright flavor, and a pleasing, slightly viscous texture.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jun 18, 2013

Castello de Medina, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2005 ($11, Elite Wine Imports): The world would be a finer place indeed if all good white wine was priced like this one. Zesty and vibrant, laced with fruit and minerality plus a nutty finish-what more could anyone ask for in a summer wine? 90 Marguerite Thomas Aug 15, 2006

Castello de Medina, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2006 ($12, Elite Wines Imports): Crisp and refreshing, with bright pear flavors and intriguing nutty undertones, this beautifully balanced wine is a sheer delight to sip.  Though very fresh-tasting, its soft, round texture allows it to stand up to many foods, thus making it a very versatile white to have on hand.  Given the low price, it's well worth buying by the case--especially with spring not all that far away. 90 Paul Lukacs Jan 22, 2008

Condesa Eylo, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2007 ($14, Henriot): This is my first taste of a Verdejo from this producer, but based on this wine, it damn sure won't be the last.  Uncommonly substantial and flavorful, it remains true to type, with lovely fruit that combines stone fruit notes recalling peaches with a strong citrus streak.  There's plenty of acidity to keep the finish focused and fresh, and though I'll be looking for the 2008 as soon as it is released, this is certainly still in very good shape, and should be through the spring and summer of 2009.  Awarded a gold medal in the San Diego International Wine Competition. 90 Michael Franz Apr 7, 2009

Condesa Eylo, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2008 ($14, Henriot):  An exciting, intense rendition of Verdejo, this wine shows very expressive aromas of dried herbs and subtle flowers, along with crisp citrus fruit and a very lively, acidic finish.  There’s just a bit of citrus rind bitterness in the finish, which is nicely balanced against the ripe fruit notes.  Impressively fresh for a bottling from 2008, this will certainly hold up nicely through the next six months, after which you should keep an eye peeled for the 2009. 90 Michael Franz Jun 1, 2010

Finca Montepedroso, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2014 ($15, Winebow): Fresh and bright, with the variety’s characteristically crisp flavors and a smooth, supple texture, this Verdejo offers delicious warm-weather drinking. Perhaps because the grapes come from Rueda’s highest elevation vineyards, it has plenty of acidity and shows no sign of fatigue. Still, this is a wine to drink in its youth, meaning this spring and summer.

Fuente Elvira, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo Fermentado en Barrica 2004 ($19, Grapes of Spain): One look at this label had me itching for an argument, despite the fact that importer Aurelio Cabestrero is such an agreeable guy. However, I like my Verdejo unadulterated by oak (just like my Sauvignon Blanc and Albariño), and think that this is probably the objectively right approach to this grape rather than a merely subjective preference. Moreover, the presence of the word "Barrica" reminded me of my basic principle of avoiding any wine that mentions wood on the front label. However, trusting Aurelio as I do, I gave it a try--with surprising results. Yes, the toasty, vanillin aromas mask the pungency of the grape's zesty personality, but once tried with food (a simple salad of crabmeat and corn with herbs and spices), this bottling outperformed the excellent regular bottling of Fuente Elvira. It had more depth and power to deal with the relatively rich food, and once tasted with the dish, the overt oak notes virtually disappeared. Complex and tasty, this is a winner. 90 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Fuente Elvira, Rueda (Castilla y León) Verdejo 2010 ($15, Grapes of Spain):  Believe it or not, Verdejo goes with damned near everything at the table, and in this respect, only Pinot Blanc may be as versatile a wine with food.  Of course, only a very good Verdejo can “go well” or “go great” as opposed to merely “going” with food, and this is most definitely a very good Verdejo.  The aromas are very expressive, showing notes of citrus fruits, dried herbs and gunpowder, and the flavors follow suit with bright, penetrating notes of lemon and lime as well as a green apple note.  The mineral-tinged finish proves quite persistent, and if you’ve yet to discover how good Verdejo from Rueda can be, this is a fine place to start. 90 Michael Franz Sep 6, 2011

Garciarévalo, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo “Tres Olomos Lias” 2009 ($14, De Maison Selections):  This is an extremely refreshing wine that’s ideal for warm weather drinking, marked by citrus and crisp pear fruit flavors, with just a hint of honey in the finish.  What perhaps proves most exciting about good Verdejo (besides the price) is the wines’ structure and balance.  That’s very true with this medium-weight example, which never seems heavy and, while bright, never allows its acidity to get in the way of the pleasure it provides. 90 Paul Lukacs Jun 28, 2011

José Pariente, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2007 ($17, Grapes of Spain): Always one of the two or three top renditions of Verdejo in each vintage from Rueda, the 2007 from José Pariente is particularly good.  Very crisp and fresh, it shows fruit recalling tart apples and grapefruit, with subtle notes of dried herbs and straw.  Pair with almost any light preparation of fish or shellfish. 90 Michael Franz May 6, 2008

José Pariente (Bodegas Dos Victorias), Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2006 ($20, Grapes of Spain): Of all the Rueda Verdejos that I taste each year, this one is consistently the most intricate in aromas and details.  Classic fruit notes of lemons, limes, and subtle white melon are very pleasant with accents of cut grass and minerals.  A great partner for simple shellfish dishes. 90 Michael Franz Aug 14, 2007

Palacio de Bornos, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2008 ($15, Kysela): An extremely fresh and expressive white from central Spain, this is just about as refreshing as wine can be.  Aromas and flavors of white melon, fresh lime and dried herbs are braced with zesty acidity that never turns overly tart or sour.  This is roughly akin to Sauvignon Blanc in terms of structure and food-pairing properties, but with distinctive notes that make for an interesting change of pace. 90 Michael Franz Jun 16, 2009

Castello de Medina, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2007 ($12, Elite Wines Imports): Not so long ago, white wines from inland Spain tended to be dull and nondescript.  They often were oxidized, and sometimes tasted dirty.  How things have changed!  Over the past decade, more and more delicious whites, many from the Rueda region and made with local Verdejo grapes, have emerged to delight consumers.  They taste bright and lively, and offer excellent value.  Here's a fine example.  It's full of citrus fruit flavors, exhibits good balance, and has impressive length on the palate.  If you haven't yet tasted this sort of new-styled Spanish white, hurry to try it.    
89 Paul Lukacs Apr 14, 2009

Castelo de Medina, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2006 ($11, Grapes of Spain): This impressive but affordable rendition of Verdejo shows very nice lemony, mineral flavors despite being quite light in body.  Still very fresh for a white from the 2006 vintage, this will provide very refreshing sipping through the spring and summer. 89 Michael Franz Mar 11, 2008

Cuatro Rayas, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo “Viñedo Centenarios” 2012 ($13): The sensory paradox of an impression of sweetness from the nose and the mouth-cleansing acidity is one of the charms of this Rueda.  The floral nature -- honeysuckle and other white flowers -- makes you think it’s a sweet wine.  But it’s not.  Its depth -- old vines speaking -- and vibrancy makes it a terrific choice for spicy Asian cuisine or sushi.
89 Michael Apstein Feb 4, 2014

Fuente Elvira, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2007 ($17, Grapes of Spain): Though Verdejo may often be thought of as a simple grape, good only for uncomplicated quaffing wines, this particular rendition tastes deliciously compelling, with spicy undertones that lift and enhance its bright fruit flavors.  Keep it in mind when the weather begins to turn warm, as it can refresh as well as entice. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 3, 2009

Fuente Elvira, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2004 ($12, Grapes of Spain): Thrilling stuff, this features piercing, pungent notes of citrus fruit, freshly cut grass and dried herbs, with subtle mineral undertones. Light and fresh but deeply flavored, it delivers real punch on the palate, but finishes with absolute clarity and cleanliness thanks to a very healthy dose of acidity. Although it sent me into immediate oyster lust, it has enough stuffing to work with all sorts of fin fish or chicken dishes as well as soups or salads. 89 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Palacio de Bornos, Rueda (Castilla y León) Verdejo 2010 ($13, Kysela Père et Fils):  I haven’t opened a bottle of Verdejo from Rueda in north-central Spain this summer that hasn’t delighted me — and I’ve opened quite a few.  The wines display the vibrancy of good Sauvignon Blanc with apple and pear flavors all their own, and a roundness on the palate that proves sumptuous.  Palacio de Bornos’ 2010 is my latest discovery.  Though not quite as complex as the very best examples, it tastes delightfully vivid.  An ideal summer quaff, it will be great both as an aperitif and as a dinner partner.  

89 Paul Lukacs Jul 26, 2011

Reina de Castilla, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) “Isabelino” 2015 ($13, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage):  This charming little white wine from Spain has peachy aromas and flavors.  Refreshing acidity counterbalances the beguiling honeyed overtones, and a steely, dry finish is part of the allure.  Comprised of 89% Verdejo and 15% Viura.
89 Marguerite Thomas Jan 16, 2018

Shaya, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) 2009 ($15, Jorge Ordonez):  Rueda, a small D.O. in northern Spain, remains under-appreciated as a source for reasonably priced vibrant white wines.  This one, made entirely from Verdejo (not to be confused with Verdelho, a Portuguese variety also grown in Australia), has just the right balance of ripe green apple-like flavors and citrus zing.  Pure and fresh--unencumbered by oak--it’s a great choice for the remaining days of summertime fare. 89 Michael Apstein Aug 31, 2010

Telmo Rodriguez, Rueda (Spain) Basa 2011 ($14, Vintus Imports): Telmo Rodriguez calls himself a “driving winemaker.”  Instead of flying all over the world to make or consult on the making of wines, he concentrates on making wines from abandoned or forgotten vineyards that he finds and restores in his native Spain.  This wine is from the Rueda wine region near the city of Valladolid, capitol city of Castile and León and the province of Valladolid.  White wines are the mainstay of Rueda and Verdejo is its star. Basa is a rich, yet elegant wine with flavors of ripe peaches, apples, citrus with a hint of fresh herbs.  It’s bright and fresh with vivid acidity.  It’s made primarily from Verdejo with Viura and tiny bit of Sauvignon Blanc.  It works well as an aperitif or as I found out during a visit to Rueda, it will go well with just about anything.  After a day of visiting wineries and vineyards, we dined by hitting tapas bars in Valladolid.  The first stop or so, we tried a couple of reds from nearby Toro or Ribera del Duero, but it turned out that a glass of Rueda Verdejo was the best choice with all the different tapas.
89 Rebecca Murphy Aug 6, 2013

Fuente Elvira, Rueda (Castilla y Leon) Verdejo 2005 ($13, Grapes of Spain): Very nice, and very nicely priced, this delicious Verdejo offers surprisingly concentration and depth of flavor for this price point, and does so without sacrificing anything in the way of linear drive or freshness in the finish. Fruit notes are in the green apple range, with nice citrus edging, and lots of Verdejo's characteristic hay and dried herb aromatic notes lend some interesting complexities. Juicy but quite crisp, this is very well made. 88 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2006

Fuente Elvira, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2006 ($15, Grapes of Spain): This is as good an introduction to Verdejo as you will find for $15.  Light-bodied but quite expressive, it shows citrus fruit and straw notes, with fruit that is nicely focused by crisp acidity. 88 Michael Franz Aug 14, 2007

José Pariente (Bodegas Dos Victorias), Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo “Fermentado en Barrica” 2005 ($32, Grapes of Spain): This high-end, barrel fermented Verdejo shows interesting texture and more complex aromas and flavors than the unoaked renditions of Verdejo from José Pariente.  However, it also shows less of the flashy accent notes of citrus and straw, and very little in the way of explicit fruit notes survive the wood, which provides the dominant aromas and flavors. 88 Michael Franz Aug 14, 2007

Marques de Riscal, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) 2008 ($10, Shaw-Ross International):

This fresh and tasty Spanish white is made mostly from Verdejo, plus a small amount of Viura. It has pretty melon and tropical fruit aromas, with crisp flavors of melon and green apple. A yummy summer wine, especially at this price.

Valdelainos, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) Verdejo 2007 ($11, Grapes of Spain): How do the Spanish manage to sell such terrific wines in euros and ship them across the Atlantic and enable importers to offer them here for such amazing prices?  I am at a loss to answer this question, but you can join me in deliberating, because the question will also come to your lips right after this wine hits them.  Expressive aromas of grapefruit and nectarine are accented with a nice dried herb note, and the fruit is light and very fresh, but still substantial in impact.  Excellent acidity lends a crisp edge to the finish, and this is a great choice for light summer dishes involving shellfish or delicate preparations of fin fish. 88 Michael Franz Jul 29, 2008

Fuente Elvira, Rueda (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2007 ($14): A delicious rendition of the Verdejo grape at a very fair price, this offers a very tasty alternative to Sauvignon Blanc in a style that will offer a very plausible substitute.  Fruit notes of grapefruit and white melon are very attractive, along with a backnote of dried herbs and a subtle suggestion of minerals make this appealing and interesting. 87 Michael Franz Jun 17, 2008

Sitios de Bodega, Rueda (Castilla y Leon, Spain) “Con Class” 2009 ($12, Eric Solomon Selections):  Although Sauvignon Blanc comprises only 15% of the blend--the remainder is Verdejo (60%) and Viura--it is the primary note in the nose.  Fortunately, the Verdejo and Viura take over on the palate to produce a clean fresh zesty white wine with surprising complexity and body for the price.  It’s another great choice as warm weather approaches. 87 Michael Apstein Apr 13, 2010

Álvarez y Díez, Rueda DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo “Mantel Blanco” 2020 ($17, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is exceptionally good Verdejo, a variety can make very refreshing but also characterful wines from the Rueda region in the northwest of Castilla y León.  There are several “exceptional” aspects to its excellence, including unusually impressive palate weight and a generously rounded mouthfeel.  Indeed, the sheer density of the wine and its vivid fruitiness made me wonder if there’s a bit of residual sugar left after the fermentation, but that is a question based on texture rather than any sugary flavor or aftertaste.  Also impressive is the total absence of any sulfurous scents, which are evident in quite a few lesser examples of this wine category.  This house also makes a stellar Sauvignon Blanc that is a bit more edgy; buy this if you favor a bit more richness.        
93 Michael Franz May 25, 2021

Álvarez y Díez, Rueda DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Sauvignon Blanc “Mantel Blanco” 2020 ($18, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Prior to the widespread availability of temperature-controlled fermentation vessels, the Rueda region was mostly known for fortified wines in a style we associate now only with Sherry.  That style fell into serious commercial disfavor about four decades ago, at which time a lot of Sauvignon Blanc was planted along with Verdejo and alongside lots of Viura.  Sauvignon Blanc had by far the best international name recognition, but didn’t really out-perform Verdejo in most sites, and was consequently phased out by most growers and bodegas.  Thankfully, the vines behind this wine survived, as it shows true Sauvignon character that sets it off clearly from this house’s excellent Verdejo.  The tell-tale notes are of dried herbs and freshly cut grass, but whereas many Sauvignons show these notes on account of under-ripeness, this is both generously ripe and still varietal in character.  Rich for the variety, but also admirably “cut” and defined with energetic acidity, this is terrific and very well suited to spring and summer.            
92 Michael Franz May 25, 2021

Nisia, Rueda DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo, Old Vines "Las Suertes" 2018 ($22, Fine Estates from Spain):  A delightfully tropical expression of Verdejo, featuring opening aromas of sweet pink grapefruit that morph slowly into guava, pineapple and passion fruit.  The palate delivers on the wine’s aromatic promise, with the fruit riding a rounded texture into a finish where the acidity pops brightly, extending the flavor impression while cleansing the mouth for the next sip or bite of seafood tapas or antipasto.  A nice find - by Jorge Ordoniz Selections.     
92 Rich Cook May 19, 2020

Isaac Fernandez Selections, Rueda DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo “Egeo” 2020 ($17, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This wine is always very good, and I’ve placed multiple vintages of it on the wine lists of restaurants for which I consult.  The 2020 rendition wasn’t quite equal to the dimension and detail that I remember from the 2019 vintage, but I tasted it fairly soon after it had made its trans-Atlantic voyage to our shores.  Even with the jostling of that trip working against it, the wine showed a ripe, generous fruit profile recalling white melon notes above all, but with nice citrus acidity freshening the finish.          
90 Michael Franz Apr 6, 2021

Martinsancho, Rueda DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2017 ($20):  Verdejo is the grape that put the little region of Rueda on the world wine map.  Bodegas Angel Rodriguez’s esteemed Martinsancho vineyard is credited for the preservation of the indigenous Verdejo grape – making it the perennial hallmark wine for the region.  The 2017 Martinsancho Verdejo is redolent of lemon zest, citrus blossom, and mineral notes.  On the palate, it is herbaceous, medium-bodied with stone fruit and floral notes and a touch of honeysuckle emerging in the finish.  Drink this superb value now and over the next 2 to 3 years.             
90 Miranda Franco Mar 9, 2021

Tapeña, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2007 ($10, Freixenet USA): Billed as Spain's answer to Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo (not to be confused with Portugal's Verdelho or Italy's Verdello) is fast becoming a workhorse  variety for cheap and cheerful Spanish whites.  This Tapeña Verdejo, another in the bargain-wine line from Frexienet, has a very faint golden color, low intensity white peach and citrus aromatics, and light stone fruit flavors.  At 12.5% alcohol, the wine finishes a little thin but is pleasant as a sipper. 86 Gerald D. Boyd Dec 16, 2008

Tapeña, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) Verdejo 2010 ($8, Freixenet USA):  The Verdejo grape (not to be confused with the Verdelho grape) is the primary one used in Spain’s Rueda region, where it has achieved tremendous success.  As a result, others are growing it elsewhere in Spain.  Not entirely dry, this Verdejo has delicate peach undertones that make it a good choice with Asian food or as an aperitif.  This clean bright and breezy wine is a great value. 87 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2011

Álvarez y Díez, Vino de la Tierra de la Castilla y León (Spain) Verdejo “Sotomonte” 2020 ($13, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Among the best values I’ve tasted this year in the broad category of fresh white wines, this is impressively delicious regardless of price considerations.  Ripe in flavor and rounded in feel, it features stone fruit flavors with an undertone of mandarin orange, and finishes with mineral notes that lend interest and complexity to the finish.  Like all other releases from this winery that I’ve tasted lately, there’s not the barest hint of sulfur showing in this wine — just pure fruit, deftly wrought.          
90 Michael Franz May 25, 2021

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Castilla-La Mancha:

Red:

Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Garnacha Tintorera “Los Losares” 2018 ($23):  The special wines in this line are labeled with “Los Losares” being by far the most prominent wording on the front label, indicating usage of fruit derived from very old, un-grafted vines grown at high elevations of over 900 meters.  Vine age is roughly 80 years.  The farming is organic, and the wine sees 14 months of aging in 300 liter casks.  This is the finest wine tasted in my first encounter with 8 bottlings from this bodega, and it outperforms most of the comparable ultra-old-vine wines of this type from Aragón appellations such as Campo de Borja, Cariñena or Calatayud.  Very rich and full in body, it is nevertheless not over-ripe or pruny — which is the typical downfall of wines of this type.  Moreover, it has already soaked up all the overt oak that it might have shown at earlier stages of its development, and now presents as a fully integrated wine that is still admirably fresh with primary fruit.  Dark berry and black cherry fruit aromas and flavors are pure and punchy, but the texture is all about softness and generosity.  Sexy wine at an attractive price.  If you see it, snag it.      
93 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Bodegas Atalaya, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) "Laya" 2013 ($9, Jorge Ordonez Selections): The vineyards of Spain offer a wide range of flavorful and affordable red wines, especially from the Mediterranean coast.  The Laya by Bodegas Atalaya is a fantastic bargain!  Almansa is a little-known region, but Garnacha wines from Almansa’s vines give rich, smooth and satisfying bottlings like this one, which also includes some Monastrell.  Deep in color, it shows beautiful, jammy strawberry and blackberry fruits at the nose backed by hints of lilac, vanilla, black pepper, and subtle herbs.  Luscious and smooth on the palate, its layers of ripe fruit are enhanced by lovely herb, floral and spice tones.  It has the depth and generosity that will make it a crowd-pleasing choice for a holiday feast.
92 Wayne Belding Dec 2, 2014

Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Monastrell “Los Losares” 2018 ($23):  The Monastrell bottling in the high-end “Los Losares” line is aged for 14 months in very large 5,000 liter casks to moderate oak influence and retain primary fruit character.  The vines average 70 years of age, are un-grafted, and are farmed organically.  This is very nearly as good as the Garnacha in this producer’s same line, and as both of them are outright steals for the rough price of $23 being asked for them in world markets, you should grab this by the armful if you can find it.  The purity of fruit is exceptional for Monastrell, which often has a “cooked” or “stewed” character from old vine parcels in the broader area around Almansa (witness the many wines from Jumilla or Yecla that are impressive for a sip but almost undrinkable when it comes to a second glass).  Black plums and Bing cherries come first to mind by analogy to the flavors presented on the palate, and some savory accents are already emerging from this 2018 release, which is sure to become even more interesting in the years ahead.  That’s not to say that this needs aging, which it definitely doesn’t, thanks to the wise decision to run this through its elevage in very large cooperage to keep the lovely fruit singing from center stage.  Undeniably delicious.       
92 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) “Gold Label” 2018 ($16):  This wine is a blend of 70% Monastrell, 20% Garnacha and 10% Syrah, and is labeled in the “Piqueras” line, and perhaps at the head of that line — based on the “Gold Label” designation.  There’s support for that hypothesis provided by an evidently more prominent signature of new and new-ish wood, and the spice and toast notes lent by this are very appealing and quite well tuned to the weight and flavor impact of the fruit.  Quite rich but not quite heavy, this slots in just below full-bodied, which is a sweet spot for paring with many foods (ranging from chicken dishes to pork, duck, veal or less robust preparations of lamb or beef).  I particularly like the wine’s purity of fruit, which is impressive both because the wood might well have undermined that attribute and also because Monastrel (also known as Mourvedre or Mataro) can have an indistinct “muddiness” to it, as noted by many excellent tasters over recent decades.  No muddiness here, as this has not only excellent purity but also very good linear energy and a long, symmetrical finish.      
91 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Garnacha Tintorera Old Vines 2018 ($15):  The fruit for this wine is from 45 to 60 year old, dry-farmed, head-pruned vines that are grown at an elevation of 750 to 900 meters.  Wood influence is imparted by 5 to 6 months of aging in fine-grained, medium-toasted, 300 liter American oak barrels.  The finished wine is full of character, with highly expressive aromas and flavors, but I emphasize immediately that these are rustic in character, but more “wild” than “dirty” to use the English equivalents for the French language descriptors for the characteristics.  Indeed, if tasted blind, I believe a lot of experienced tasters would mistake this for a very traditionally styled, Grenache-based wine from the Southern Rhône.  There’s no brett in this, but one gets the idea that the next barrel over in the cellar might have had some, and the wine isn’t re-fermenting, but it presents the faintest prickle on the tongue that makes one wonder for a second.  The fruit recalls black cherries above all, with undertones of saddle leather and arid underbrush that lend interesting counterpoints to the fruit.  You may not end up sharing my view that this is more wild than dirty, but if you disagree, I bet you’ll find it “good dirty.”    
90 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Castillo de Almansa Reserva 2017 ($16):  This is a blend of 50% Monastrell, 30% Garnacha Tintorera and 20% Tempranillo.  Vinification is conducted separately for the three varieties, which are then blended before undergoing 12 months of aging in fine-grained, medium-toasted, 300 liter American oak barrels.  There’s a bigger price jump from the Crianza to this wine than from the Roble to the Crianza, based on what I see the wines being offered at price-wise by retailers around the world, but this is easily the best of the three wines, and if my score is off, I’m probably low by a point.  The fruit and wood are more differentiated and distinct in how they present themselves, and yet still very well integrated.  Although there’s more richness and structure in this offering, the richness offsets the wood and tannin very nicely, and there’s nothing blunt or tough about the wine’s finish.  I doubt that this will improve with further aging, but it shows no signs of drying out, so snag this for a delicious drink at a bargain price if you encounter it.     
90 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Castillo de Almansa Crianza 2018 ($12):  The blend for this is 50% Monastrell, 30% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 6 months of aging in 300 liter American oak casks.  It shows significantly more complexity than the Roble bottling, with spice notes added to the mix of red and black berry-flavored fruit and more textural grip, perhaps from the Cabernet and certainly in part from additional time in oak.  Although this is firmer and more serious, it is hardly astringent or tough, and can easily be enjoyed now with relatively robust foods.  Global prices for this seem scarcely any higher than for the Roble, so this is worth trading up for if you see both on offer.    
88 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Castillo de Almansa Roble 2019 ($11):  A blend comprised of equal parts Monastrell and Garnacha with minimal but still notable oak influence (3 to 4 months exposure in this case), which is basically what “Roble” should be taken to mean when encountered on a Spanish label.  Medium-bodied, this is gutsy and satisfying, especially in view of the very modest prices being asked for it around the world.  Flavors of both red and black berries predominate, with relatively low acidity and tannin that leaves this somewhat lacking in lift and grip.  However, this would be a fine partner for simple fare like burgers or pizza, and is sufficiently soft to be enjoyed as a stand-alone sipping red.     
87 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Vitícola Mentridana, Castilla-La Mancha (Sierra de Gredos, Spain) Garnacha “La Uvas de la Ira” 2021 ($57, Indigo Wine):  La Uvas de la Ira, or “The Grapes of Wrath,” is a compelling and thought-provoking cuvée of Garnacha from several sites.  The 2021 Las Uvas de la Ira, produced and sold before by Dani Landi, is now a wine from Vitícola Mentridana under the direction of Curro Bareño, who takes over in this vintage.  Notably, longtime friends Dani Landi and Fernando Garcia are behind one of my all-time favorite Spanish labels, Comando G.  All these projects demonstrate how distinctive wines from Sierra de Gredos can be.  The 2021 La Uvas de la Ira is beautifully perfumed and textured.  It oozes complex and tantalizing flavors of red and black berries, flower petals, spice, and wet earth.  It is high in acid and marked by persistent but well-integrated tannins.       
94 Miranda Franco Nov 28, 2023

Ylirum, La Mancha DO (Spain) Tempranillo Estate Bottled 2019 ($17, Wine Insiders):  Here is a real find for the price!  A bold mix of ripe cherry, dill, cinnamon, and a faint dash of bell pepper ride a firm grip through and extended finish that keeps the flavors pumping long after the liquid leaves.  It’s got “house red” written all over it.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
94 Rich Cook Sep 28, 2021

Villavid Winery, Manchuela (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) “Villavid” 2011 ($9, Bodega Real): This bottling, exclusively from Tempranillo, combines herbal notes, a subtle tarriness with perfectly ripe black fruit, all wrapped in suave tannins. It delivers unexpected complexity at the price. Plus, it finishes firm, not sweet. Those looking for stellar under $10 wine have found it.
87 Michael Apstein Jan 29, 2013

Bodegas Arrayán, Méntrida (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) “Selección” 2009 ($20, Viño Cava):  Méntrida, a small DO in the large Castilla-La Mancha region, is starting to rediscover itself.  Although Garnacha is the most widely planted grape, some producers, such as Bodegas Arrayán, are experimenting with the so-called international varieties.  Bodegas Arrayán, at least, seems to be making it work.  Their Selección, a blend of equal parts (30%) of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, with Petit Verdot, it’s a modern, yet not “international” style, of wine.  A big wine, to be sure, it is neither over-oaked nor overdone.  A subtle and attractive tarry bitterness in the finish holds it all together and reminds you that this is not a New World fruit bomb.  A little awkward at this stage, it still needs a year or so to come together.  A reasonable alternative to cellaring it would be to open and decant it a few hours before throwing a slab of beef on the grill. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012

Vega Moragona, Ribera del Júcar (Castille-La Mancha, Spain) Tempranillo 2010 ($12, USA Wine West): This wine may not be as nuanced as a top bottling of Rioja nor as powerful as a Tempranillo from Toro, but it shows that superb results are possible in many Spanish regions from this terrific grape variety -- and at very attractive prices.  It shows dark cherry fruit with subtle oak edging and impressively persistent flavors.  This should prove very versatile at the table, but is also a delicious stand-alone sipper.
88 Michael Franz Mar 4, 2014

White:

Bodegas Piqueras, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Verdejo Wild Fermented 2020 ($15):  The Verdejo variety is most famously vinified in Rueda, but plots are also located in other regions, as demonstrated by this wine.  The grapes are sourced from a single plot in a cool location at a relatively high elevation, and are then fermented with indigenous yeasts for 2 months in 300-liter, fine-grained, lightly toasted French Allier barrels.  Ageing is then conducted for 6 months in small stainless steel tanks in continuous contact with the fine lees, with periodic bâtonnage conducted to enhance the finished wine’s complexity and texture.  Although the Almansa region is closer to Murcia and Valencia than to Rueda, a cool microclimate at high altitude evidently can trump the warmer macroclimate here, as this retains abundant acidity from the 2020 vintage that punches right through the lees influence and wood exposure.  Orchard fruit flavors of apricot predominate, but there’s a notable citrus edge that provides freshness and lift.   
89 Michael Franz Apr 19, 2022

Back to Top

Catalonia:

Red:

Torres, Conca De Barberà (Catalonia, Spain) “Grans Muralles” 2010 ($150, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): An exciting blend of Garnacha, Monastrell and Cariñena, along with the revived, indigenous Querol and Garró.  I don’t have enough experience to know what was lent to the wine by these last two rarities, but I know enough about the magical 2010 vintage to know that it provided a lot, as the wine shows a telltale combination of showy ripeness with uncanny freshness.  On one hand, it is elegant on account of its prominent acidity, sleek structural profile, and strong linear energy.  Yet it also shows an engaging, brambly rusticity, and in the end, despite its obvious excellence, it is tough to peg, as it shows both Mediterranean and Bordelais aspects.  This was my first taste of this expensive and rare wine (7,099 bottles), but I’m already looking forward to our second date.
96 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Siós, Costers del Segre DO (Catalonia, Spain) “Cau del Gat” 2021 ($28, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage Co):  Denominación de Origen (D.O.) Costers Del Segre is nearly a desert and known for their Cava and red wines.  Siós, a label under the Costers del Sio winery, is focused on making wines with identity.  Their Cau del Gat, or "Cat’s Den," is designed to highlight the excellent Syrah produced in D.O. Costers del Segre.  While only 10% of the wine is made from Syrah, the dark color and deeper flavors are thanks to the inclusion of Syrah.  Overall, the wine showed dark fruits, subtle cedar, and delicious earthy notes, ranging from tobacco leaf and leather to cardamom and potting soil.  I am starting to think the world needs more Garnacha, Tempranillo, and Syrah blends coming out of Catalonia.          
90 Vince Simmon Jun 18, 2024

Gallina de Piel, Empordà (Catalonia, Spain) "Roca del Crit" 2018 ($30, Bluest Sky Group):  Roca del Crit (screaming rock) was a place behind El Bulli where, the story goes, David Seijas, the sommelier at that famed restaurant, could escape and scream to relieve tension from work.  Roca del Crit is more robust than its stable mate, Mimetic, with a focus more on minerals and earth.  There is still plenty of dark fruit, but that component is no longer front and center.  The wine has great refinement, especially considering its power.  Great acidity imbues it with energy.  Wonderful texture — those suave tannins — adds to its appeal.  A hint of bitterness in the finish reminds you it is serious stuff.  Perfect now for wintery fare, it’s also a bargain for what it delivers.  You’ll scream with joy when you taste it.  I just wish they would ditch the heavy bottle.  The wine speaks for itself.        
93 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2021

Vinyes Domenech, Montsant DO (Catalonia, Spain) Garnatxa / Garnacha “Obsessio” 2018 ($22, Winetones, Inc.):  The 2018 Obsessio Garnatxa (also known as Garnacha and Grenache) has a lovely magenta hue in the glass, with aromas of wild strawberry, cherry, ruby red grapefruit, underbrush, and dried rose petals.  Doused in flavors of steeped cherries, candied orange peel, plum, and red licorice, this wine is savory and smooth with superbly integrated tannins.  It has a bright fruit character supported by a lifted, mouth-watering acidity.  It's juicy, lush and delightfully easy to drink.    
91 Miranda Franco Jan 31, 2023

Alvaro Palacios, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Camins Del Priorat” 2020 ($25):  Give this seductive wine a long decant if you decide to drink in the next year or two – it is rather tightly wound at present.  That little effort will reveal deep black cherry, bramble and tar aromas that find solid delivery as palate flavors.  There are complementary notes of crushed rock and rich earth tones.  Supple grip extends the finish.  If you decide to cellar, I would say  five to ten years is a good bet.  That’s a lot for your twenty five bucks!  Contains 40% Grenache, 20% Samsó (Carignan), 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah and 10% “other.”        
93 Rich Cook Dec 6, 2022

Les Mines, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) 2011 ($19, Esprit du Vin): Deep, dark and delicious, this blend of primarily Grenache and Carignan avoids the excessive heat and over-ripeness that can mar some reds from Priorat.  Instead, it tastes smooth and lush, with black and red fruit flavors augmented by echoes of coffee, chocolate, and savory spice.  It’s a wine that seems tailor made for serving with grilled meats and barbecues.
90 Paul Lukacs May 16, 2017

Perinet, Priorat DOQ (Catalonia, Spain) “Merit” 2016 ($28):  Priorat has some fine values available, and this blend of Merlot, Syrah, Garnacha and Cariñena is more than fine, with grand supple structure and mouth-filling texture supporting blackberry, cherry and earthy mineral flavors that linger long with tension and easy grip.  Decant long and splurge on the beef with the money you saved on the wine!   
95 Rich Cook Feb 18, 2020

Cellers Melis, Priorat DOQ (Catalonia, Spain) “Melis” 2015 ($90):  This is a unique Priorat -- certainly the ripest, boldest style that I’ve tasted from the region.  That said, it works very well, with cedary spice balancing rich blackberry and black cherry fruit, with notes of dill and vanilla adding interest.  It’s up to spicy high-end tapas or a fancy cheese course, where it will shine brightest. 
93 Rich Cook Apr 10, 2018

Herència Altes, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) “Lo Grau de l’Inquisidor” 2015 ($50): When tasting at this estate, being aware that the area is a heartland of Garnatxa in global terms, I didn’t want to root for a wine based on the international Syrah  --  but there’s little doubt that this is the sexiest wine in the lineup (at least in the 2015 vintage).  It shows lovely floral topnotes (violets, in my interpretation) and follows up with deep flavors of ripe berries -- red first but also black -- with tannins that I hate to call “silky,” though no other description would do them justice.  Ten percent of Garnatxa Peluda lends a little local facet to this wine, but it is quite unquestionably international in style, but indisputably delicious in a highly polished, rather feminine style.  If I’m off on this score, I’m off on the low side.  Not yet imported to the USA, but worth an international search… or even a trip to this remarkable, almost-finished winery.
94 Michael Franz May 2, 2017

Herència Altes, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) “La Serra Negre” 2015 ($40, European Cellars): Mostly Samsó (a.k.a. Carignan) along with 20% Garnatxa Negra, this is broad in texture and deep in flavor, with punchy fruit but also savory undertones and impressively grippy texture.  Wood notes are present in the form of a toasty topnote and some spice in the finish, but the fruit certainly holds center stage, with taut acidity and fine-grained tannin providing framing and firmness.  Very well grown and made, this offers strong value for the money.
92 Michael Franz May 2, 2017

Herència Altes, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) “La Peluda” 2015 ($17, European Cellars): Gatnatxa Peluda (or “Hairy Garnacha,” named for fuzz on the backs of the vine’s leaves), this mutation provides exceptional acidity but was once disparaged because its color is inherently less deep than standard-issue Garnacha.  More perfumed and open in fruit profile, with mostly red tones, it is juicy and open in flavors but then surprisingly defined and focused (but not astringent) in the finish.
91 Michael Franz May 2, 2017

Herència Altes, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) “L’Estel” 2015 ($17, European Cellars): Blended from 60% Garnatxa Negra, 20% Syrah and 20% Samsó (the local name for Carignan, a.k.a. Cariñena), this offers excellent value for $17.  Openly fruity thanks to the Garnatxa component, but with structure and stuffing from Syrah and acidity from the Samsó, this is a complete wine that is potent but not pushy.
90 Michael Franz May 2, 2017

Rosé:

Sara Pérez y René Barbier, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Partida Pedrer Rosat" 2016 ($50, Elite Wine Imports):  This distinctive, dry rosé is a real find!  It is unctuous enough to pair with steak. The production is tiny, just 1,750 bottles.  Understated hints of berries, blood orange, and herbs with subtle creamy, leesy notes emerge from the glass.  René Barbier and Sara Perez produce the wine.  René’s family owns Clos Mogador, regarded as one of the finest Priorat estates, and Sara Perez’s family owns another great name, Mas Martinet.  Since starting this project in 2001, René and Sara have sought to produce natural wines from organically grown fruit with as little intervention as possible.        
94 Miranda Franco Sep 14, 2021

Sparkling:

Born, Catalonia (Spain) Rosé Brut 2020 ($25, Haroza Select Wines):  Rosé wines have been electrically popular in the last few years with entire brunch sessions and wine tastings dedicated to their honor.  Born saw the trend’s popularity and built a winery around producing fun Rosé wines in Barcelona.  Their brut is a Charmat method wine made from 100% organic Pinot Noir grapes.  The bubbles provide a good mouthfeel and a touch of residual sugar helps the orange blossom, nectarine, and strawberry fruit notes pop with each sip.  Everything about this wine is made to party from the winemaking choices to the bottle art.  Pick a few up for your next brunch.      
88 Vince Simmon Jul 4, 2023

Avinyó, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) “La Ticota” Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2014 ($39, De Maison Selections): This is the best Cava I have ever tasted.  It displays plentiful, tiny bubbles and subtle citrus, apple flavors with light yeasty notes.  The most impressive quality of the wine is its elegant mouthfeel.  The bubbles are very prolific and very fine because it is aged for a minimum of 60 months on the lees before disgorgement.  It is made by the Esteve-Nadal family who are located in the village of Avinyonet del Penedès.  They are doing all the right things, and they have the Elaborador Integral (integral producer) to prove it.  The new certification signifies that all aspects of making a Cava from vineyard to market are executed on winery’s property with the winery’s materials.  Avinyó is a top producer who vinifies all of their wines with their certified organically grown.  The Xarelo (85%) and Macabeo (15%) grapes in this wine were grown in the La Ticata vineyard.          
96 Rebecca Murphy Dec 19, 2023

Juvé & Camps, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) “Gran Juvé” 2012 ($49, Winebow): Among the very best renditions of Cava you’ll find in the USA, this shows bright yellow gold color with glints of gold.  The aromas are complex but subtle, with good integration and none of the bilious yeast notes that often prove overwhelming in prestige level sparkling wines.  Effervescence is extremely delicate, contributing to a sense of creaminess in the wine’s texture, which is also enhanced by malolactic fermentation (which doesn’t affect total acidity much, as there’s very little malic acid in grapes grown in this warm climate, but does impart a faint creaminess and even a hint of vanilla--thought there’s no oak involved at any stage in the elevage).  Flavors recall baked apple with citrus edging, and low dosage of 7 grams per liter provides just a hint of generosity but still a dry, classy profile.  You may have difficulty springing for this at the cash register after walking past the Champagne section in your retail shop, but you will not be disappointed once you taste the wine.  A blend of 40% Xarel-lo, 25% Macabeo, 25% Chardonnay and 10% Parellada.  Believe it.
93 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Llopart, Cava (Spain) Brut Nature Reserva 2015 ($23):  Llopart consistently gets it right because they are one of the oldest producers of Cava.  The Brut Nature category requires the best grapes because regulations require that sugar, which could potentially mask flaws, may not be added during dosage.  Unsurprisingly, Llopart got it right with this 2015 Reserva.  Clean and precise, it refreshes and lingers.  The obligatory minimum of 15 months of aging for a Reserva adds smoothness and complexity. Its straight spine of acidity makes it a wonderful accompaniment to unlikely pairings, such as beef carpaccio.  It’s hard to find a better sparkling wine for the price.
93 Michael Apstein Sep 4, 2018

Juvé & Camps, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) Gran Reserva Brut Nature “Reserva de la Familia” 2013 ($20, Winebow): This is a no-dosage rendition of Cava, and an impressive one.  2013 was a hot year, but there’s never any suspense about achieving full ripeness around Penedes anyway, so that’s only a factor of marginal importance.  Edgier and more characteristic of Cava’s general profile than the top-end “Gran Juvé,” which would be difficult for most tasters to “place” when tasting blind, this is full of yeasty notes (aroma and flavor) plus the freshly-mown hay accent for which the region’s wines are adored--or lamented.  There’s a hint of bitterness in the finish that I like very much, and though this is a very serious, zero dosage wine for those already inclined toward Cava, it is a superb example of the breed.
91 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Juvé & Camps, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) “Xarel-lo Essential” 2014 ($18, Winebow): Hand-harvested (a rarity in Cava country), this shows a very interesting interplay between the slight nutty bitterness of the Xarel-lo variety and a slight impression of sweetness from a modest 6 grams per liter of dosage.  A single-vintage wine from 2014, its fresh primary fruit also contributes to a freshness that interacts compellingly with a faint smokiness.  Xarel-lo is the only grape used in Cava that is genuinely local, accounting for about 90% of plantings, and rarely found elsewhere in Spain or overseas.  Juicy and open, this is less challenging than the “Reserva de la Familia” bottling from Juvé & Camps, but no less interesting in its way.
91 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Juvé & Camps, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) Brut Rosé 2014 ($25, Winebow): Made entirely from estate-grown Pinot Noir, this is finished with 8 grams per liter of residual sugar.  That’s a low dosage in global terms, but a little higher than normal for Cava, and the level is set to counteract a slight grippy bitterness resulting from a cold-soak maceration used to extract color and flavor for this bottling.  By far the juiciest and fruitiest of the sparklers from Juvé & Camps, this is among the most “winey” of Cavas you’ll find, and with much less earthiness than usual, it will strike many tasters as being more about Pinot than Cava.
91 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Roger Goulart, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) Brut Reserva 2014 ($19, Sawm Imports): Blended from 40% Xarel-l0, 30% Macabeo and 30% Parellada and aged for 18 months, this is light, fresh and clean in profile, with a modest yeast signature and very energetic acidity.  The house has very deep, very old cellars that are a key influence on the style of its wines.  By contrast to the coarse mouthfeel and rather earthy character of almost all supermarket Cavas, this is bright and very restrained  -- bordering on austere (though “elegant” would no doubt be the producer’s preferred term).  Stylish if not showy, this is clearly pitched toward refined palates.
90 Michael Franz May 9, 2017

Segura Viudas, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) "Aria" Brut Nature NV ($14, DM Vineyards & Partners):    This fresh and clean bubbly has a firm, but not aggressive, spine of acidity that balances its floral fruitiness. A welcome hint of bitterness in the finish and its overall weight makes it a good choice for a variety of food -- tapas or sushi anyone.   90 Michael Apstein Jun 19, 2018

Mistingueit, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) Brut Reserva 2013 ($15, Ecco Valley): Stored on its lees for 18 months after the second fermentation, this is a wine of quite good quality finished at 9 grams of residual sugar.  It shows notably more complexity than standard-issue Cava, and even though it has less residual sugar than is the norm for Brut bottlings, it tastes every bit as generous on account of the influence of yeast lees during the ageing process. 89 Michael Franz May 9, 2017

Mistingueit, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) Brut Rosé 2014 ($12, Ecco Valley): Made entirely from the local Trepat variety (relatively recently revived), this shows pale salmon color in accord with the new wave of fashion in Spain, but entirely contrary to tradition.  It is notably fruitier than the other wines under this brand, but no sweeter (low dosage of 7 grams per liter), which makes this a particularly versatile wine.  I very rarely like a winery’s rosé as well as its other wines, much less better than most of the others, so this was a bottle that made me sit up and take notice.
89 Michael Franz May 9, 2017

Oliver Viticultors, Cava (Spain) Brut Nature Rosé NV ($26, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage Co):  If you are like me, you find that sparking wine can pair well across a wide variety of food.  I enjoy mine out of my daily drinking wine glasses, which helps access the wine’s aromas that would otherwise be muted by using a flute.  Drinking sparkling wine doesn’t have to be expensive either.   This Oliver Viticultors’ Brut Nature Rosé Cava rings up for less than $30, and provides the classic creamy mouthfeel driven by medium-sized bubbles.   Strawberry and nectarine notes drive the fruit profile with the addition of orange blossom on the nose.  Oliver Viticultors makes this in a Brut Nature style, meaning that the winery adds no additional sugar to the wine after disgorgement.  In other words, despite the wine’s apparently sweet fruit notes, the wine is low in sugar — giving you one more reason to open a sparkling wine on any day of the week.      
89 Vince Simmon Feb 20, 2024

Roger Goulart, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) Brut Rosé 2014 ($23, Sawm Imports): Rather deeply colored in the more traditional Spanish style for Rosé wines (most producers are shifting toward much paler tones), this is made entirely from black grapes, namely, 90% Garnacha and 10% Pinot Noir.  Ageing for 15 months is relatively modest for this house, but certainly not for the Cava D.O. overall, which requires only 9 months.  Open and even juicy in character but not overtly sweet, the flavors are reminiscent of pie cherries and … um … red gummy bears.  Those descriptors make the wine sound frivolous, but it doesn’t come off that way, and its modest sweetness and refreshing acidity make it a good choice for use at the table.
88 Michael Franz May 9, 2017

Mistingueit, Cava (Catalonia, Spain) Brut 2014 ($12, Ecco Valley): This is a very solid Cava that hits the mark for balance between dosage and acidity and shows an admirably clean character (i.e., none of the wet straw character that can lend an awkward earthiness) as well as nice, fine-grained effervescence.  This is a brand made by the fourth largest Cava house (14 million bottles, 20% of which is still wine), and production of this one wine stands at 650,000 bottles.
87 Michael Franz May 9, 2017

Anna De Codorniu, Cava DO (Catalonia, Spain) Brut Rosé NV ($15):  An unusual blend for a Cava, which usually are composed of a list of grapes that are difficult for English speakers to pronounce.  Here it’s Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and it succeeds in a crisp, scouring dry style where the aromas of bread and strawberry cream entice, and the palate presents the dry strawberry and citrus with clarity.  The finish cleanses while leaving a soft fruit impression, keep you close for a return sip.  Nice price to boot!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2018 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
94 Rich Cook Oct 2, 2018

U MES U, Cava DO (Font-Rubí – Alt Penedes, Catalonia, Spain) Cygnus “Sador” Brut Nature Reserva NV ($22, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This excellent Cava house has been turning out very fine bottlings under the labels, “1+1=3” and “1+1=3 Cava Brut Rosé Selecció,” and they have sold very well at prices of $19 and $20, respectively.  I assume they are made in significantly greater quantities than this wine, which is organic grapes and vegan certified.  Those characteristics indicate the seriousness of the producer with this wine and its very slightly sweeter stablemate (“Albireo” Brut Reserva), but even more important is its extraordinary performance in the glass for an asking price of $22.  It is wonderfully flavorful and yet still detailed for a sparkling wine at this price level, and that this was achieved without adding any sugar after disgorging (hence “Brut Nature”) is really quite remarkable.  The wine hits just the right balance between fruitiness and restraint, with subtly yeasty aromas leading to flavors that recall Golden Apples with a lemony edge and a finish that is as mineral as it is fruity.        
92 Michael Franz Jan 2, 2024

Segura Viudas, Cava DO (Penedes, Catalonia, Spain) Brut NV ($11):  For an excellent value in sparkling wine, look to Spanish Cava producers such as Segura Viudas.  Drawing on centuries-old Cava traditions in Catalonia's Penedès region, Segura Viudas has garnered a reputation for quality traditional method sparkling wine.  With notes of pear, citrus blossom, and tropical fruit, this Brut selection offers a broad palate with depth and complexity and a long, dry finish.  It is a perfect aperitif wine for enjoying with charcuterie and cheese boards.       
91 Jessica Dupuy Nov 17, 2020

U MES U, Cava DO (Font-Rubí – Alt Penedes, Catalonia, Spain) Cygnus “Albiero” Brut Reserva NV ($20, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  My experience with this wine was love at first sight (and whiff and taste).  Although I love its sibling “Sador” Brut Nature Reserva just a bit more, this is even less expensive while being just as delicious in its way, and consequently an even better value.  (The value of both is remarkable given that they are certified organic and vegan.)  This has only 8.5 grams per liter of residual sugar, so it is a truly Brut wine rather than one that is off-dry, yet it offers very open and expressive fruit flavors that are beautifully off-set by notable mineral undertones.  My preference for the “Sador” Brut Nature is that it seems a bit more detailed to me, and reserved but not “austere” despite its non-dosage crafting.  Another way of expressing my preference is that the “Sador” simply doesn’t need any dosage to achieve its obvious deliciousness.  However, having had my say, I grant that out of 100 hypothetical tasters, the preference split might well be 50/50.  These “Cygnus” bottlings from U MES U are among the most exciting “finds” for me as a reviewer during 2023.           
91 Michael Franz Jan 2, 2024

Anna de Codorniu, Cava DO (Catalonia, Spain) Brut Rosé NV ($13):  In the galaxy of impressive sparkling wines, this beauty from Codorniu stands out not only for value but also for its utterly pure fruit aromas and its compelling deliciousness.  Fresh ripe strawberry and cherry flavors, an attractive mousse and the soft, seductive mouthfeel will be hard to beat at this price.   
90 Robert Whitley Jul 28, 2020

White:

Alta Alella, Catalonia (Spain) Pansa Blanca 2020 ($10, Avant-Garde Wine & Spirits):  Perched in the Serralada de Marine Park overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, this beautifully positioned estate is located only 10 kilometers from Barcelona.  Alella is the smallest D.O. in Spain, but it risks becoming even smaller as urban development is squeezing out the vineyards (it now covers only 1 third of its footprint when it was established in 1956).  The estate’s Xarel-lo grapes (also known as Pansa Blanca) are hand-harvested.  This light, refreshing wine, with its aromatic hints of stone fruits and a minerally-salty finish, is an ideal choice for spring and summer enjoyment.  Xarel-lo grapes are often used in Cava.     
92 Marguerite Thomas Apr 26, 2022

Torres, Conca De Barberà (Catalonia, Spain) Chardonnay “Milmanda” 2014 ($65, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): This shows a very ripe fruit profile, with an openly peachy nose and flavors to match.  There’s some oak showing as well, but from the sidelines… seemingly because the wood was absorbed by the fruit rather than because it was used sparingly (as it makes its presence felt much more than smelled or tasted).  Only half of the fruit went through malolactic fermentation, and yet the wine still leans toward the fat side, so drink this soon, with rich fish dishes.  Pricey for  its quality level, but still very good.
91 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Raimat, Costers del Segre (Catalonia, Spain) Albariño 2022 ($15, Raventos Imports):  Costers del Segre is home to the Raventós family, owners of Codorníu, who established the Raimat winery and estate in the area in the early 1900s.  Drawing from its 8,000 acres of sustainable and organic vineyards, Raimat today offers a wide range of wines.  While Albariño is the signature wine of Galicia, it lends itself to a different style when grown here in the high altitude vineyards within Catalonia.  As this wine demonstrates, it shows more color with its light yellow appearance, and it comes across with more of a middle palate and smooth texture.  Nectarine, citrus and floral notes dominate the aroma.  The flavors show a pleasant note of tropical fruit, and while being well-rounded, it finishes with bright acidity and balance.      
92 Norm Roby Aug 8, 2023

Vinyes Domenech, Montsant DO (Catalonia, Spain) Garnacha Blanca “Obsessio” 2019 ($22, Winetones, Inc. ):  Garnacha Blanca may not be as well-known as Spain’s other white grapes; however, as demonstrated with "Obsessio," it can be a hidden gem.  The 2019 "Obsessio" Garnacha Blanca is expressive with the textbook notes of waxy apples and Mediterranean aromatic herbs that make it utterly quaffable.  The deep flavors of green apples, pear, lemon zest, fennel, and spice linger on the palate.  It has bright acidity yet is round and lush.  This would pair perfectly with a seasonal fall salad to kick-start your Thanksgiving meal.    
90 Miranda Franco Nov 22, 2022

Costers del Priorat, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Blanc de Pissarres” 2018 ($28, De Maison Selections):  Modern Priorat made its reputation on robust red wines, so it’s a bit of a surprise to find such an elegant white wine like this one from producer Costers del Priorat.  Light, floral, lemony aromas introduce flavors of white peach, pear and citrus graced with floral and aromatic herbal notes.  It is round and juicy in the mouth, balanced with bright citrusy acidity.  It is a blend of Garnacha Bianca, Macabeo and Pedro Jimenez.  Macabeo is one of the grapes usually found in Cava.  It is the main white grape of Rioja where it is called Viura.  In the Sherry region, Pedro Ximénez is the grape that is dried to make the coffee colored super sweet wine often called PX.  These grapes were planted together in high altitude sites in the mid-to-late 1930s.      
93 Rebecca Murphy May 11, 2021

Herència Altes, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) “La Serra Blanc” 2015 ($30, European Cellars): This is made entirely from Garnatxa Blanca, and is a striking example of what the variety can do in Terra Alta, which is home to more of this variety than anywhere else in the wine world.  It borders on full-bodied, though the wine’s overall freshness makes it seem lighter initially than it is when sized up more carefully.  Sourced from a selection of the estate’s top old vine sites and aged in foudres, it shows full ripeness and impressive breadth on the palate, but with very nicely integrated acidity and an engaging combination of spiciness and minerality in the finish.
93 Michael Franz May 2, 2017

Herència Altes, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) “Benufet” 2015 ($17, European Cellars): A blend of 90% Garnatxa Blanca and 10% Viognier, this shows medium-plus body that is quite impressive in richness, but remains enduring fresh and refreshing thanks to energetic acidity.  Calcareous soils in the area are likely a factor of consequence in this, but sound picking decisions and first-class winemaking and equipment are surely important as well.  The Viognier component (the only fruit purchased from other estates) provides added expressiveness to the bouquet, which can be rather muted when Garnatxa Blanca is singing a cappella, yet it isn’t overly prominent.  The subtle fruit notes recall stone fruits and white melons, with a citrus edge and quite notable minerality marking the finish.
90 Michael Franz May 2, 2017

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Catalunya:

Red:

Real de Aragon, Catalunya (Spain) Garnacha 'Centenaria' 2006 ($18, Frontier Wine Imports): Extremely deep and earthy, and marked by rich fruit augmented by gamey secondary notes, this example of old Spanish Grenache tastes sumptuous.  The wine merits special kudos for never feeling heavy or hot, but instead seeming seamless and harmonious.  Most reds, even quite expensive ones, with this much flavor and extract end up with an alcoholic bite. Not this one. It’s instead lush and luscious. 92 Paul Lukacs Jan 19, 2010

Torres, Catalunya (Spain) "Sangre de Toro" 2007 ($9, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  With their portfolio of wines, the Torres family has shown the world the incredible quality and value of Spanish wines.  This mid-weight blend of Garnacha (2/3rds) and Cariñena delivers far more complexity and nuance than the price suggests.  It’s nicely balanced, harmonizing bright fruit notes with a touch of spice, and is a good choice for everyday drinking.  Don’t be misled by the plastic bull adorning the neck of the bottle.   There’s serious wine inside. 87 Michael Apstein Sep 14, 2010

Moli dels Capellans, Conca de Barbera (Catalonia, Spain) Tempranillo / Syrah 2007 ($25, Parador Selections): A beautiful Spanish red made from a blend of 40% Tempranillo and 60% Syrah.  Well established vineyards (19 years old for the Syrah, 24 years for the Tempranillo) is part of the reason the wine is such a rich, ripe, tarry amalgam of red fruits, spice and soft tannins, with a long, lustrous finish. 91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 9, 2009

The Spanish Quarter, Costers del Segre (Catalonia, Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon/Tempranillo 2006 ($12, Codorniu USA): Olivia Salas, the energetic young winemaker for The Spanish Quarter wines, blends Spain's signature grape, Tempranillo, with Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) to achieve this soft, 'easy to drink' red.  Despite the seeming large proportion of Cabernet, it doesn't dominate or mask the brightness imparted by Tempranillo. 86 Michael Apstein Mar 4, 2008

Danaus, Costers del Segre DO (Catalunya, Spain) Red Wine, Made With Organic Grapes 2022 ($13, Origins Organic Imports):  Here is a wine with a stupidly high quality to price ratio -- and I would be stupid not to wholeheartedly recommend it.  You can taste the blend, which is a rare find on the shelf where this will be located.  It shows juicy Tempranillo character, nice peppery Grenache notes, and a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon that fills out the midpalate.  It is lighter in body, floral, with a nice pepper and red fruit push in the finish.  A no brainer!        
91 Rich Cook May 7, 2024

Celler Espelt, Emporda (Catlaunya, Spain) "Saulo" 2005 ($10, European Cellars/Eric Solomon): This deliciouis red offers superb value and a slew of impressive performance characteristics including deep color, expressive aromatics of dried cherries and dark berries, rich flavors that show lots of ripeness but no chunkiness, and lots of gutsy tannin to firm up the finish. A blend of Garnacha Tinta and Cariñena with just a little spice note from wood, this will pair beautifully with moderately robust meats like flank steak. 88 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2006

Celler Espelt, Empordá-Costa Brava (Catalonia, Spain) Garnatxa 2008 ($11, Eric Solomon Selections):  This 100% Garnacha (Grenache) delivers a delightful array of spice and fresh strawberry-like flavors.  It’s an everyday kind of wine--at a very attractive price--that manages to provide a balanced, almost sweet savory, mixture of flavors.  Mild tannins mean it takes a chill nicely, so remember it for the summertime. It’s a great $11 wine. 86 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010

Blau, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) 2009 ($14, The Coutnry Vintner):  Montsant is often thought of as Priorat’s poor cousin, yielding wines that generally are not as intense and age-worthy, but still taste full-bodied and deeply flavored.  They usually cost two, three, or four times less than their trendier relations.  This is such a fine example that it may make you reconsider.  Marked by dark plum and berry fruit, with echoes of herbs and savory spice in both the bouquet and finish, it’s well-balanced and seductively easy to enjoy.  Unlike many Priorats, the wine is not heavy on the palate or super-alcoholic, and it does not need cellaring to be enjoyed.  Maybe good Montsant is a rich cousin after all?      
90 Paul Lukacs Mar 6, 2012

Celler de Capçanes, Montsant (Catlaunya, Spain) "Val del Calas" 2004 ($16, European Cellars/Eric Solomon): This delicious blend of 60% Merlot, 35% Garnacha and 5% Tempranillo receives 12 months of ageing in new to three year-old French oak barrels. A single vineyard wine made from fruit sourced from two farmers working a high-altitude site, it features medium body, very good concentration and intensity, and fine balance thanks to ripe tannins. Black plum and dark berry fruit notes work very nicely with toasty, smoky notes from wood, and the whole package shows admirable class and quality at a moderate price point. 89 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2006

Celler el Masroig, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) “Solà Fred” 2008 ($11, Boutique Wine Collection):  A delicious full-fleshed but still supple wine, made predominantly with Carignan along with a dash (10%) of Grenache, this new-styled Spaniard avoids tasting excessively generic or international due to a spicy undertone that hints at dried sage, thyme and more.  That secondary layer of flavor gives it a distinctive character and real personality. 89 Paul Lukacs Jan 12, 2010

Capçanes, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) “Vall del Calàs” 2006 ($20, Eric Solomon Selections):  Capçanes ranks with the best wine cooperatives in the world.  Working with growers whose vineyards have been in the same family for generations gives them access to old vines.  This blend of Merlot (50%), Garnacha (35%) and   Tempranillo combines lively fruity with earthy--leafy--flavors. Not a big or massive wine, it still has plenty of umph to hold up to flavorful fare.  Polished tannins support without intruding. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010

Celler de Capçanes, Montsant (Catlaunya, Spain) Mas Donis Barrica 2004 ($12, European Cellars/Eric Solomon): This attractive bargain is a blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Syrah that sees 9 months in American and French oak barrels. Although the wine shows a good deal of oak aroma, these are balanced in terms of flavor by lots of juicy, sweet Garnacha fruit. Lightly earthy backnotes of leather and mushrooms help to counterbalance the juiciness of the fruit, a to fine-grained tannins and a subtle tinge of minerals. 87 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2006

Parés Baltà, Penedès (Catalonia, Spain) Cabernet/ Garnatxa “Mas Petit” 2009 ($11, Broadbent Selections):  Ever seen a blend of Cabernet and Garnacha?  Me either, but this is a totally convincing wine and a remarkably reasonable price.  Medium bodied but full of flavor and character, it shows notes of black plums and red cherries, with nice spice notes around the edges and very soft tannins in the finish.  Yum! 91 Michael Franz Feb 7, 2012

Abadal, Pla de Bages (Catalonia, Spain) Reserva 2001 ($24, Grapes of Spain): Good luck getting more complexity and pleasure out of a wine in this price range.  Highly complex, this blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah is all French in terms of grape varieties, and yet is shows a spiciness and medium-bodied profile that does provide a Spanish accent.  At six years of age, it still shows lots of primary fruit, and yet emerging secondary aromas provide lots of aromatic complexities to augment the core of red and black fruits.  The balance between fruit, tannins and wood is just right, and the wine will prove wonderfully versatile with all sorts of moderately robust fare. 91 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2007

Abadal, Pla de Bages (Catlaunya, Spain) Cabernet Franc/Tempranillo 2004 ($14, Grapes of Spain): A seriously delicious blend of 60% Cab Franc and 40% Tempranillo, this offers excellent integration of fruit and structural components. Notes of black plums and bing cherries are moderately ripe and rich, with a pleasant aromatic accent of dried herbs and a nice mineral note in the finish. Tannins and wood are very nicely weighted in balance with the fruit, and the whole package is impressively symmetrical. 88 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2006

Abadal, Pla de Bages (Catalunya, Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot Crianza 2005 ($14, Grapes of Spain): Since I am a big believer in indigenous Spanish grape varieties, I don't necessarily have a positive attitude about wines from Spain that are based on French cultivars.  However, this wine turned me around on the strength of its performance, which delivers an impressive amount of aroma, concentration and depth of flavor for the money.  Black fruit notes mark both the aromas and flavors, and the wine shows real weight and density.  The finish is quite structured and serious, with tannin and oak providing quite notable framing and firmness, making this a $14 wine that not only call for, but demands robust food to be enjoyed fully. 88 Michael Franz Sep 23, 2008

Elix, Priorat (Catalunya, Spain) 2006 ($40, Palmina):  Priorat, a rugged, desolate and hot region is one of Spain’s top wine producing areas.  With alcohol levels easily reaching 15%, the wines are typically robust and powerful.  The best, like this one, convey an almost paradoxical elegance.  An explosion of exotic flavors--licorice and a tar-like minerality--burst force, but don’t overwhelm.  Surprisingly approachable now because of finely polished tannins, it’s a wine to drink when it’s frigid outside and there’s a garlic infused leg of lamb in the oven.  And it reminds people who rail about high alcohol wines--including myself--that it’s balance, not numbers, that matter. 94 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2011

Genium, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) 2005 ($42, Grapes of Spain): This is an excellent bottling from Priorat at what is a quite reasonable price in light of the wine’s quality and the going rate for top wines from this D.O.  The fruit shows an interesting character drawn from both red and black notes, and these work very well with subtle oak accents and a lovely minerality that rides along with the fruit through the persistent, symmetrical finish.  Although the wine is ripe and texturally tender enough to enjoy now with food, it will develop additional complexities and become even more interesting over the next three or four years. 92 Michael Franz Nov 3, 2009

Genium Celler, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Enològic” 2006 ($45, Grapes of Spain):  Made with organically-grown grapes, this excellent Priorat red shows fruit that is very nicely balanced between fresh, fruity notes and meaty, savory ones.  The oak is admirably restrained, lending aromatic complexity and a little added textural grip without obscuring the appealing aromas and flavors of fruit.  Well grown and skillfully crafted and very fairly priced, this is an excellent introduction to the higher end of Priorat’s wines. 92 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2012

Mas Romani, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) 2004 ($70, Eric Solomon):

Made from the classic blend of 50% Carignan and 40% Grenache (with the remaining portion split between Merlot and Syrah), this succulent Priorat blends power and elegance.  Not over done, as can be the risk with wines from this region, La Basseta is a stylish wine.  This is a producer to follow, but look for a name change, to Mas Alta from Mas Romani, with the 2005 vintage.

Finca el Puig, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) 2004 ($38, Palm Bay International): A blend of 55% Grenache, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah, this is a big, rich, flavorful wine that is packed with so much fruit that it easily handles its load of 15.5% alcohol without seeming overripe or hot.  Dark and deeply pigmented, it shows its seriousness right from the start, and the concentrated midpalate flavors and length of finish reinforce the initial impression.  Pair this with robust grilled meats. 91 Michael Franz May 19, 2009

Genium, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Ecològic” 2006 ($46, Grapes of Spain):  This is one of the most interesting and sophisticated wines that I’ve tasted during the past year from Priorat, an appellation that sometimes disappoints on account of wines that are either over-ripe at the higher end or rather shallow at lower price levels.  Be that as it may, this bottling is very nicely proportioned with medium-plus body and satisfying depth of fruit, with black fruit notes predominating but some red fruit accents as well.  The wood influence shows only in a subtle way in the wine’s finish, which is marked most prominently by very appealing mineral notes. 91 Michael Franz Sep 7, 2010

Mas Martinet, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) "Clos Martinet" 2006 ($55, Folio): Beautifully structured, with lip-smacking ripe fruit, a pot-pourri of dried herbs, smokiness, and an edge of minerality.  The deep, brooding finish is infinitely pleasurable.  Sara Perez is the wine maker at this family-owned estate. 91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 16, 2009

Morlanda, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) Crianza 2009 ($48, Freixenet USA): This wine from the Priorat region of northeastern Spain is a blend of Grenache and Carignan in equal parts.  The wine’s soft texture, slight jammy character and 14.5 percent alcohol most likely owe themselves to the Garnacha component, as do the red berry and black cherry aromas and flavors.  But the spine of the wine is the Carignan component, contributing gutsy tannin and compact structure.  The wine also shows lovely earthy and inky mineral notes.  This fine wine will probably improve over one to three years of additional bottle age, which should temper its tannins.
91 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 14, 2014

Mas de Subirà, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) 2010 ($30, Freixenet USA): If you didn’t know that this is a Spanish wine from the Priorat region, its meaty, herbal, spicy Mediterranean aromas might lead you think that it is from the South of France.  Despite more than 15 percent alcohol, this wine is not huge in body.  It has lots of flavor, with notes of blackberry and dark plum, and especially non-fruity flavors of earth, black pepper and dried herbs, and its tannins are pleasantly soft.  A blend of Garnacha (60 percent), Carignan (30 percent) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10 percent).
90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Jan 14, 2014

Torres, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Salmos” 2005 ($34, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This is a very tasty wine and--in the grand scheme of Priorat pricing--a very good deal given the sad current state of the dollar vis-à-vis the euro.  Dried red cherry and bright blackberry fruit notes show an impressive balance between sweet depth and bright freshness.  Oak is notable but admirably balanced and symmetrical, and the whole package is impressively integrated at this young age. 90 Michael Franz May 22, 2007

Torres, Priorat (Catalunya, Spain) “Salmos” 2007 ($37, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  The winemaker’s notes on this wine comment on an “unparalleled balance between power and elegance” -- a lofty goal that his wine achieves.  It is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, the Grenache harvested first and the Syrah last, at its ripest.  The wine is full-bodied and generous (15 percent alcohol) but not at all exaggerated in style; oak tannin, fairly high acidity and good concentration of fresh fruit character (dark plum, black cherry) fill the body of the wine and keep the alcohol in check.  This wine is extremely well-balanced and a pleasure to drink. 90 Mary Ewing-Mulligan Apr 26, 2011

Celler Piñol, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) "Mather-Teresina" NV ($40, Olé Imports): This is actually not a non-vintage wine but rather a multi-vintage one, as this wine was created by blending together Piñol's top wines from the 2004 and 2005 vintages.  The blend is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Garnatxa (Grenache), Tempranillo, Merlot, and Morenillo.  It's a somewhat unusual technique, but this dual vintage works very well, resulting in a broad, deep wine with elements of blackberries, cocoa, and a background note of menthol.  Powerful and supple, it finishes with a long, satisfying aftertaste.  The only negative is that it's made in very limited amounts, with less than 1000 cases sent to the US.  Worth a search for this delectable wine though! 91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 9, 2009

Celler Piñol, Terra Alta (Catalunya, Spain) Nuestra Señora del Portal Red 2007 ($16, Olé Imports): Hard to beat the price and appeal of this Crianza, which is made from a harmonious (if somewhat unusual) blend of grapes.  Each on its own--Cab, Syrah, Grenache, Tempranillo, Merlot--can display an unabashedly strong character, often stealing the scene when other varietals share the stage.  In Nuestra Señora, however, they are great ensemble players, each bringing something valuable to the fruity, smoky, spicy mix. 90 Marguerite Thomas Jun 2, 2009

Celler Piñol, Terra Alta (Catalunya, Spain) "Ludovicus" 2008 ($10, Olé Imports): If wines could be compared to dogs, this one's personality would definitely be a Golden Retriever: big, friendly, easygoing, adaptable.  It looks pretty in the glass (with reddish-blue overtones), and it sends berry, plum, and herbal flavors rolling across the palate.  This is a tail-waggin' good wine, much more pleasing that its $10 price tag would indicate. 90 Marguerite Thomas Jun 2, 2009

Oriel, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) 2003 ($19, Oriel Wines): This uncanny wine manages to seem playful and powerful all at once, with fresh, fruity aromas showing bright cherry fruit that are followed by serious flavors and even more serious tannins.  A blend of 40% Garnacha, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, 10% Tempranillo, and 10% Merlot, this shows a subtle earthy side underneath the fruity veneer, and the notes of mushrooms and leather prove quite interesting as counterpoints to the Garnacha-dominated fruit. 89 Michael Franz Dec 12, 2006

Rosé:

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Spain) Garnacha 2012 ($14, E. & J. Gallo): With its bright rosy color, generous aromas and lusty red fruit flavors, this is an exceptionally assertive rosé.  Edging upwards on the sweet-o-meter scale, Las Rocas may not satisfy those who crave bracingly dry rosé, but don’t discount the value of this easygoing sipper as an apt partner for barbecued chicken, ribs, or other summery fare that has notable spice-charged sweetness.
88 Marguerite Thomas Jun 25, 2013

Las Rocas de San Alejandro, Calatayud (Spain) Garnacha Rosé 2012 ($14, Las Rocas USA): This a perfect wine for those dog days of summer, when crisp and refreshing dry rose wines are at their thirst-quenching best. This effort from Spain's Bodegas San Alejandro delivers spicy red-fruited flavors and aromas, with a clean, crisp finish that invites another sip. 88 Robert Whitley Aug 20, 2013

Torres, Catalonia (Spain) 'Sangre de Toro Rosado' 2010 ($10):  The Spanish have always had a knack, as well as a thirst, for good, dry rose wines to wash down their tapas in the searing heat of the typical Spanish summer. Navarra is the unquestioned leader in the Spanish rose category, but good rose is made in Rioja and Catalonia as well. They are not only good, but very cheap. Torres’ Sangre de Toro can be widely found for well below the suggested retail price of $10, and it’s a steal even at full price. The grapes in the blend are Garnacha and Mazuelo, two red varieties that are staples in northern Spain, and they deliver delicious favors of strawberry and raspberry, with exceptional balance and a long, clean, crisp, dry finish. 88 Robert Whitley Jul 12, 2011

Torres, Catalunya (Spain) 'Sangre de Toro' Rose 2011 ($12): It would be fair to say that France romanticized the practice of pairing summery dishes with dry rose, especially those from the region of Provence. It's also fair to say the Spanish simply weren't as aggressive in marketing their own prowess with dry rose. In fact, they are very good at it, as Torres' Sangre de Toro Rose demonstrates. This beautifully balanced dry rose exhibits notes of fresh strawberry and tropical fruits, with earthy back notes. It's clean, fresh and crisp -- and pretty cheap. This vintage is a blend of Garnacha (Grenache) and Carinena (Carignan).
89 Robert Whitley Aug 21, 2012

Torres, Catalunya (Spain) Rosé "Sangro de Toro de Casta" 2008 ($10, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Torres is one of Spain’s best known producers because they produce such a consistently high-quality array of wines.  Delicate red fruit notes marry with vibrant acidity in this refreshing rosé.  Dry and lively, keep a bottle chilled in the refrigerator to banish the humidity of summer. 86 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2009

Torres, Catalunya (Spain) "Sangre de Toro de Casta" 2007 ($10, Dreyfus Ashby):

The Torres Sangre de Toro de Casta (rose) takes on a decidedly fruity expression (as opposed to earthier, less colorful rose) that's all about fresh, ripe strawberries and raspberries. Grapes used are Garnacha Tinta and Carinena. The impression of sweetness is simply bright, intense, red-fruited flavor that will pair nicely with spicy tapas or fried nibbles. I also like the fact it's low in alcohol by today's standards, at 13 percent.

Fra Guerau, Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) 2006 ($15, Freixenet USA): This unusual blend of Merlot, Garnacha (Grenache) and Syrah is made more like a red than a white wine. Following a eight-hour maceration, the juice was lightly pressed then bled off and cold fermented.  The new wine was then rested for a short time in French and American oak, then bottled.  The result is a light ruby wine with forward bright raspberry and spice aromas and flavors.  It is nicely textured without being heavy, balanced with crisp acidity and subtle earthy notes.  This juicy rosé is priced right and is a good accompaniment with grilled burgers, ham steak and fried chicken. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 17, 2008

Celler de Caçsanes, Montsant (Catlaunya, Spain) "Mas Donis" Rosat 2005 ($10, European Cellars/Eric Solomon): This excellent rosé features pure, direct red cherry fruit with some substance but excellent refreshment value thanks to admirable dryness and very nice acidity. Crafted from 80% Garnacha (a.k.a. Grenache), 10% Syrah and 10% Merlot, this offers just about all that one could fairly ask from a Mediterranean rosé. 87 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2006

1 + 1 = 3, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) 2006 ($16, Grapes of Spain): Every vintage of this wine that I've ever tasted was very good, and this rendition is certainly no exception.  Red cherry fruit is simple but very fresh and pure, with plenty of acidity to counterbalance a slight sweetness.  Juicy and enduringly tasty, this is a winner for summer sipping. 88 Michael Franz Jul 24, 2007

Las Colinas del Ebro, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) Syrah Garnacha 2007 ($12, Grapes of Spain): One of the very best rosés I've tasted this year, this delicious wine offers vibrant aromas and flavors of red cherries and wild strawberries, but delivers them on a light, elegant platform.  Crisp and refreshing, it is delightful for stand-alone shipping, yet delivers enough flavor impact to work with many light summer dishes. 89 Michael Franz Jul 8, 2008

Sparkling:

Segura Viudas, Cava (Spain) Gran Cuvee Reserva NV ($14): The Gran Cuvee Reserva is a beautiful expression of Cava from Segura Viudas. Produced from estate vineyards in northeastern Spain, this cuvee is predominantly native grape varieties -- Macabeo and Parellada -- with a touch of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It shows a floral nose with hints of spice, pear and apple. On the palate it is well balanced, creamy and fresh, with exceptional length and a crisp, clean finish. At this price one of the best values you are likely to find in top-notch sparkling wine.
91 Robert Whitley Aug 11, 2015

White:

Marqués d Alella, Alella (Catalunya, Spain) Blanc 2009 ($12, CIV USA):  Highly distinctive, beautifully balanced, and downright delicious, this is the perfect wine to use to surprise your adventuresome wine buddies--or to deflate a self-appointed expert/gasbag who needs to be taken down a peg.  Made entirely from Pansa Blanca, it is wonderfully aromatic and flavorful, with notes of wet straw, roasted nuts and ripe melons, with a little spritz of citrus around the edges for good measure.  Lightly sweet but almost imperceptibly so on account of its excellent acid balance, this is a sheet delight with shellfish or simply prepared finfish dishes.  As a concluding aside, I find it difficult not to root for a grape named “Pansa Blanca,” if for no other reason than that it probably got beaten up in gym class. 90 Michael Franz Feb 15, 2011

Torres, Catalonia (Spain) 'Vina Esmeralda' 2010 ($15):  A blend of Moscatel and Gewurztraminer, Torres’ Vina Esmeralda is a fresh breeze on a warm Mediterranean day. The nose is scented with honeysuckle and rose petal, followed by flavors of tropical fruit and spice, which might suggest a slightly sweet white hardly suitable for grilled fish, steamed clams or freshly shucked oysters. On the contrary, the impression on the palate is crisp and dry, with a clean, snappy finish. Whether consumed as a cocktail beverage or served with savory seafood, this most unusual wine is a winner and well worth the modest investment. Not only is it refreshing, but it’s low alcohol, too, at 11.5 percent. 88 Robert Whitley Jul 12, 2011

Torres, Catalunya (Spain) 'Vina Esmeralda' 2011 ($16): A light-bodied, clean and refreshing blend of Moscato and Gewurztraminer, Vina Esmeralda from Torres is the perfect antidote to the dog days of summer. With aromas of white flowers and honey, Vina Esmeralda suggests sweetness although its merely off-dry. This vintage exhibits notes of honeysuckle and citrus and delivers crisp acidity. A winner with tapas, including savory Spanish jamon Iberico.
88 Robert Whitley Aug 21, 2012

Torres, Catalunya (Spain) "Viña Esmerelda" 2005 ($14, Dreyfus Ashby): I've tasted many vintages of this wine over the years, but I've never tasted one so fresh as expressive as this. What's the difference? The only one apparent to the eye is the screw cap closure, which is among the very first that I've seen on a wine from Spain (which remains sadly hidebound in this respect despite so many recent improvements and innovations). A blend of 85% Moscatel and 15% Gewurztraminer, it is predictably floral but without becoming distracting or tiresomely. Indeed, the wine is expressive but not as flamboyant as one might predict on the basis of its varietal makeup. Essentially dry but hardly austere, this is a great summer sipper but also a promising partner for almost any lightly spicy dish appropriate for white wine. 88 Michael Franz May 23, 2006

Torres, Catalunya (Spain) "Viña Esmeralda" 2009 ($14, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  The blend--Moscato (85%) and Gewürztraminer--explains the floral, spicy character of this wine.  The aromas suggest sweetness, but it really isn’t.  Bright acidity keeps it balanced and makes it easy to drink throughout a meal.  Try it with highly spiced dishes that use Chorizo sausage or chili peppers because it will cut through anything. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 19, 2010

Bodegas Torres, Catalunya DO (Spain) “Viña Sol” 2019 ($11, Miguel Torres USA):  Bodegas Torres, certainly one of the most important producers in Spain, produces this bargain-priced delightful racy white wine year after year.  Full of energy and life, the 2019 is a blend of Parellada, an important component of Cava, and Garnacha Blanco.  Not a heavy wine, it has an uplifting citrus zing that makes it ideal for the spring and summer.     
88 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2021

The Spanish Quarter, Costers del Segre (Catalonia, Spain) Chardonnay/Albarino 2006 ($12, Codorniu USA): Codorniu, best known for their excellent Cava, also produces a range of still wines.  The Spanish Quarter label, their latest entry into the market, is meant to be an 'easy to drink' wine either as an aperitif or with food.  This Chardonnay/Albariño blend fits the bill.  Chardonnay adds body and Albariño, an indigenous Spanish grape, provides its characteristic verve.  A touch of residual sugar softens the wine, making it suitable as a before dinner drink, but also means it works well with flavorful or spicy fare. 86 Michael Apstein Mar 4, 2008

Celler Espelt, Emporda (Catlaunya, Spain) "Vailet" 2005 ($10, European Cellars/Eric Solomon): Those looking for juicy, fresh whites to enjoy with a wide range of foods during the summer and early fall months will he hard pressed to find a better candidate than this wine priced at $10. A blend analyzed by the producer as roughly 60% Garnacha Blanca and 40% Macabeo that also manages somehow to incorporate about 1.5 to 2% of Xarel-lo, it is based on delicious fruit that recalls pears and Rainier cherries. Nice acidity that freshens up the finish and light mineral tinges lend interest to this serious, dry wine. 87 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2006

Espelt, Empordá-Costa Brava (Catalonia, Spain) “Vailet” 2008 ($11, Eric Solomon Selections):  Looking for great value in a brisk, lively summertime wine?  You’ve found it with this blend of Garnacha Blanca (65%) and Macabeo from one of Spain’s less well-known DOs, Empordá-Costa Brava, located in the country’s northeastern corner near the French border.  Vinified and aged entirely in stainless steel, it delivers clean lemony-tinged fruitiness and vibrancy.  It’s a great value. 86 Michael Apstein Apr 13, 2010

Gramona, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) “Gessami” 2009 ($17, Eric Solomon Selections):  This aromatic blend of Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer--it’s like a flower shop in a glass--is deceptive.  The nose makes you think it’s going to be sweet, but it’s not.  It is exuberant and refreshing.  If you could bottle springtime, this would be it.  A lovely aperitif, it matches well with spicy Asian or southwestern fare. 89 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010

Can Feixes, Penedès (Catalunya, Spain) “Blanc Selecció” 2006 ($16, Classical Wines): Although this wine has become--lamentably--much more expensive than it was four or five years ago, this is also probably the best vintage of it that I've ever tasted, and the weakness of the dollar against the euro is surely the culprit to be blamed for the increase in price.  In any case, the aromas and flavors show very expressive notes of ripe apples and peaches, yet the wine seems more crisp than ripe, as the fruit is energized by acidity that lifts every dimension of flavor and provides a very long finish without ever turning tart or sour.  An extremely faint prickle of effervescence also adds to the impression of fresh crispness. 89 Michael Franz Feb 19, 2008

Abadal, Pla de Bages (Catalonia, Spain) Picapoll 2008 ($20, Grapes of Spain): Picapoll is the Spanish name for the grape the French generally call Picpoul or “lip stinger.”  That rather unfortunate name really isn’t applicable to this rendition, which is energetically, refreshingly acidic but definitely not sour or shrill.  Fruit notes recalling ripe pears make for very appealing aromas and flavors, and the well-integrated acidity and subtle mineral notes make for a clean, interesting finish. 89 Michael Franz Sep 15, 2009

Abadal, Pla de Bages (Catlaunya, Spain) Blanc 2005 ($16, Grapes of Spain): This fresh, satisfying white is a blend of 70% Chardonnay, 20% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Picapoll (which is unrelated to Languedoc's Picpoul). Rich and complex but still crisp and refreshing, it features wonderful interplay between flesh, flavorful fruit (recalling pears and peaches) and background notes of herbs and citric acidity that lend complexity and cut. It isn't easy to find whites that offer both soft roundness and defined structure, so this is a great choice for white meats and finfish dishes. 89 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2006

La Conreria d’Scala Dei, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Les Brugueres” 2009 ($30, Eric Solomon Selections):

Priorat is known for its great red wines.  But distinctive whites can be made there, just as in other great red wine areas, such as the Côtes de Nuits and Pessac-Léognan.  Made entirely from Garnacha Blanca, it leads with a gorgeous floral--almost peachy--nose followed by an engaging earthiness and bracing minerality, all amplified by vibrant acidity.  Long and full-bodied, it retains grace and balance.

Las Colinas Del Ebro, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) Garnacha Blanca 2010 ($12, Grapes of Spain):  If you spend a lot of time hanging around with wine geeks, you’ll learn that there’s a buzz about Garnacha Blanca.  However, if you spend a lot of time tasting Garnacha Blanca, you’ll end up wondering where the buzz came from.  I’ve tasted a fair number of them from southernmost France, south-central California, and the Mediterranean coast of Spain and generally come away--yawning.  Here, however, is a rendition that will awaken your taste buds while also exciting your sense of value, as it shows delicious flavors of stone fruits like white nectarine with a suggestion of white melon and a nice spritz of citrus around the edges.  Light- to medium-bodied, it has enough substance to hang in with many foods, but is still fresh and fun and delightful as a stand-alone sipper. 90 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2012

Las Colinas del Ebro, Terra Alta (Catalonia, Spain) Garnacha Blanca 2009 ($12, Grapes of Spain):  Made from very old vines, this wine is quite tasty on its own, but really comes into its own when paired with food.  Delicate aromas and flavors are centered on notes recalling ripe pears, with lots of zesty acidity suggesting a citrus note as well.  Seemingly a bit on the simple side at first blush, it blooms like top quality Pinot Blanc when tasted along with food, and again like excellent Pinot Blanc, its subtlety makes it a fine partner for almost any food appropriate for white wine. 90 Michael Franz Jul 20, 2010

Celler Piñol, Terra Alta (Catalunya, Spain) Nuestra Señora del Portal White 2007 ($13, Olé Imports): The long summer ahead is going to be more enjoyable and seem perhaps cooler with refreshing white wines such as this.  It's an undemanding wine (blended from Garnatxa Blanca, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Macabeo), but by no means lacking in interest.  Aromas are dominated by the Sauvignon Blanc in the blend, but tropical fruit flavors dance on the palate, and the wine's texture has that subtle graininess often associated with Garnatxa (Grenache). 88 Marguerite Thomas Jun 2, 2009

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Cigales:

Red:

Museum Real, Cigales (Spain) Reserva 2003 ($24, Wildman): The barren, windswept area of Cigales in northwestern Spain is becoming another of this country's hot, new wine regions.  Museum Real, making 100% Tempranillo wines from vines which are over 60 years old, is right now one of the very best buys in the wine world.  It is intense and concentrated, with minerally flavors and a lengthy finish.  I couldn't stop drinking this wine.  Buy it now before the price doubles, as has happened in the Priorat region. 93 Ed McCarthy Feb 6, 2007

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Galicia:

Red:

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Galicia, Spain) “Petalos” 2019 ($21, The Rare Wine Company):  If you have never heard of or tasted a wine made from a red grape called Mencia from Bierzo, a small Spanish wine region, you are missing a delicious experience.  Bierzo Is located in the northwestern corner of Castilla y Léon very near Galicia.  The Mencia grape thrives in this cool area in the hands of one of Spain’s most important wine winemakers, Alvaro Palacios.  He is renowned for his efforts with a few other pioneers to revive the Priorat region.  His Iconic wine L’Ermita is considered one of Spain’s best.  Descendientes de J. Palacios is a joint venture by Palacios and his nephew Ricardo Perez.  Twenty percent of the grapes come from estate vineyards farmed biodynamically.  The remaining grapes come from local growers who farm organically or are in the process of converting to organic farming.  The 2019 Petalos boasts a rich ruby color and inviting aromas of black cherry, blueberry fruit with notes fresh roses.  It is medium bodied with flavors of black cherries, blueberries and blackberries with floral notes and hints of dusty minerals.  We served it with bacon wrapped chicken breasts, roasted potatoes and fresh green beans.     
95 Rebecca Murphy May 3, 2022

Luna Beberide, Bierzo (Galicia, Spain) Mencia 2006 ($13, Grape Expectations): The Mencia grape can work wonders when grown by conscientious vintners in the remote, rugged region of Bierzo, making a range of reds that runs from light and juicy and charming (with young vines or valley fruit) to concentrated and intense ones (sourced from older vines grown up on steep slopes.  This bottling is of the former type, with open, expressive red cherry and berry fruit and just the slightest whiff of wood.  Acidity and tannin are well tuned to the weight of the fruit. 85 Michael Franz Aug 14, 2007

Nanclares y Prieto, Galicia (Spain) “Miñato da Raña" 2020 ($73):  Alberto Nanclares and Silvia Prieto make a series of Albariños that are among the best examples of the variety.  While the duo may be known for their Albariños, they also produce some fantastic reds or "vinos tintos."  Their Miñato da Raña comes from a steep, south-facing vineyard (named “A Raña”) of centenarian vines grown on granite soils.  The blend of 60% Mencía, 30% Garnacha Tintorera and 10% white grapes (Palomino and Godello) offers aromas of blackberry, cassis, and wild herbs that carry over to the lush, elegant, and vibrant palate.  This wine keeps unwinding as you drink it, which keeps you moving toward that next sip to experience its full dimension.            
93 Miranda Franco Mar 14, 2023

Torre la Moreira, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($18, Spain Wine Collection):

A beautifully packaged wine that is also very interesting on the inside, this shows a particularly zesty style for Albariño, with lots of zesty acidity and a fruit profile that is really more based on lemon/ lime than the somewhat more orthodox peach flavor.  The body straddles the line between light- and medium-bodied, with lots of energy and drive thanks to the especially abundant acidity.  This is likely to unwind and get even better over the course of the next year or two.

Martin Códax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2007 ($15, Martin Códax USA):

Widely available in the US, Martin Codax Albarino may not be the most complex or compelling example of this increasingly popular Spanish wine, but it tastes both very good and very true to the varietal.  The 2007 appeals because it is extremely juicy and fresh, just what good Albarino should be.

Finca Millara, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) 2007 ($43, Bonafide Wine Estates):  This is a terrific rendition of Spain’s marvelous Mencia grape, which is gaining renown for turning out remarkable wines from very old vines in appellations like Bierzo and, in this case, Ribeira Sacra.  This rendition runs true to form, showing a rather tight, high-acid profile when first uncorked, but responding very well within an hour to double decanting (meaning, pouring the wine vigorously into a decanter and then returning it to the bottle via a funnel).  It softens and picks up weight when aerated and shows very good concentration and depth of flavor, with dark cherry fruit that is at once ripe but fresh and pure, along with accents of spices and smoke and slatey minerals.  Sure to improve for a decade, this is a very impressive wine and a great introduction to the breed for those who’ve yet to experience top-shelf Mencia. 93 Michael Franz Nov 2, 2010

Adrás, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) Mencia 2013 ($19, Grapes of Spain): I fell in love with this wine instantly.  That may not be entirely surprising to those who know me, as I’ve probably written more about the Mencia grape than anyone based in the USA.  However, I also showed it to two different groups of people at dinner parties, and everyone else loved it immediately too.  For a wine that is just one year off the vine, it shows lots of juicy, primary fruit; and though it seems obvious that it would be assertively fruity at this early stage, the remarkable thing is that the fruit isn’t “obvious” in its character, but actually quite layered and interesting.  It shows fresh, sweet-seeming tones, but also wonderful bright acidity, and these sensory signals are woven together by subtle savory notes that really provide an excellent sense of integration and completeness that is utterly unexpected in a wine of such youth.  As a final testament to this wine’s captivating powers, a friend from one of the dinner parties -- who had never heard of nor tasted Mencia before -- showed up un-announced at our door the following evening, having just driven to a wine shop to find another rendition.  She demanded that we open it immediately to try it -- and it turned out to be Finca la Cuesta Mencia from Bierzo’s Luna Beberide (also imported by Aurelio Cabestrero). One more convert to Mencia!
92 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2014

Peza do Rei, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) “Barrica” 2007 ($37, Classical Wines):  This is one of two red current releases from Peza do Rei, with the other being a 2008 bottling priced at $21.  That’s a big price difference, but there’s still little question in my mind that the 2007 “Barrica” bottling is the one to pick, as it shows much more complexity and concentration.  The fruit shows impressive density and the flavors of dark cherry are deep and persistent, and yet the wine is really only medium-bodied with moderate ripeness, which will enable it to work well with dishes involving pork or veal or duck as well as heftier fare such as beef or lamb.  Generally speaking, whenever a wine’s label makes explicit reference to oak there turns out to be too much of it, but the “Barrica” designation shouldn’t scare you off in this case, as the wood is quite well integrated once the wine has had a chance to breathe for a bit. 92 Michael Franz Nov 2, 2010

Peza do Rei, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) 2007 ($40, Classical Wines):  This terrific wine is made from Mencia grapes grown on steeply terraced, south-facing slate vineyards and aged in French oak for 12 months.  It is medium-bodied but very flavorful, with excellent balance of fruit to oak and tannins that are soft, fine in grain and very well-measured in relation to the weight of the fruit.  Dark cherry fruit notes are accented with a bit of spicy oak and a light herbal undertone, and the long finish shows a nice hint of minerality that is a great foil for the sweetness of the fruit.
91 Michael Franz Dec 22, 2009

D. Ventura, Ribeira Sacra DO (Galicia, Spain) “Viñas do Burato” 2019 ($27, De Maison Selections):  This Mencía from Ribeira Sacra (“Sacred Banks”) in Galicia offers great aromatic complexity with enticing mineral, balsamic, and raspberry notes.  It is concentrated and lively on the palate with silky tannins.  It is full of dark fruit flavors with a nice burst of acid and minerality.  This is an elegant wine that expresses its place beautifully.  It is also a wonderful food wine.  The wine’s crisp acidity cuts through rich dishes, and its soft tannins won’t overpower delicate foods.          
91 Miranda Franco Mar 15, 2022

Guimaro, Ribeira Sacra DO (Galicia, Spain) Mencia Tinto 2019 ($20, Jose Pastor Selections):  Guimaro (meaning “rebel” in Gallego, the regional language of Galicia) is an apt name for this wine from 40-year-old Mencía vines in Ribeira Sacra.  The wine is dripping with notes of tart red berries, flowers, herbs, balsamic glaze, along with crushed-rock minerality.  Stick anything on the grill, and this wine will offer the perfect pairing.  This delicious introduction to Riberia Sacra is well worth the modest price tag attached to it.         
91 Miranda Franco Nov 2, 2021

Rafael Palacios, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) “As Sortes” 2008 ($45, Eric Solomon Selections):  With Alvaro Palacios in Priorat and Rioja, Ricardo Palacios in Bierzo, and now with Rafael in Valdeorras, a DO in northwestern Spain, the Palacios family is one of the locomotives that continues to pull Spanish wine onto the world’s stage.  As Sortes, made entirely from the Godello grape, has a laser-like focus and precision--Palacios describes it as a “vertical” wine--that emphasizes its minerality.  Over the years, Palacios has been cutting back on the amount of oak gradually--using larger and older oak barrels for aging--to bring out the minerality of the wine. It’s a fabulous wine.  Perhaps his best to date. 95 Michael Apstein Apr 13, 2010

Laura Lorenzo Daterra Viticultores, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) “Casas De Enriba” 2019 ($34, Jose Pastor Selections):  This unique 80/20 blend of Mencía and Godello has captivating aromas of subtle but tremendously expressive floral and red fruit notes.  It has a medium body, with well-integrated tannins and flavors of red cherry, strawberry, rhubarb, and allspice wrapped in a rustic package with mouthwatering acidity.  This wine over-performs for the price.  Stock your cellar to ensure you have a bottle or three on hand!       
92 Miranda Franco Nov 23, 2021

Alberto Orte, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) “A. Portela” 2015 ($28, Ole & Obrigado Imports):  Mencía flies under the radar of many casual wine consumers, but it is a grape that deserves to be a superstar.  Mencía has likened to a cross between Syrah and Cabernet Franc.  And in some ways, it offers the best of each — the slightly herbal side of Cabernet Franc, with the spicy pepper notes of Syrah.  However, I would argue, Mencía has its own unique flavors that merit exploration.  The Alberto Orte "A Portela" Mencía is a perfect introduction to this excellent variety.  The minute it hits the glass, the wine’s aromas won’t stop coming at you, showing an attractive mix of dried red flowers, wild cherries, and hints of earth, spice, and tobacco — all of which continue onto the palate.  Its bright acidity makes it light enough to drink on its own or enjoy with lighter fare.       
91 Miranda Franco Mar 8, 2022

White:

Alvaredos-Hobbs, Galicia (Spain) Godello 2019 ($50, Paul Hobbs Imports):  Alvaredos-Hobbs is the collaboration between renowned winemaker and consultant Paul Hobbs and Galician viticultor Antonio López Fernández.  Galicia is arguably one of the most compelling white wine-producing areas of Spain.  The 2019 Godello from Alvaredos-Hobbs is rich, full-bodied, luscious, refreshing, and laden with lively citrus, pink grapefruit, and honeysuckle flavors.  The minerality is well balanced with the acidity.  A long finish completes the delectable experience.            
94 Miranda Franco Dec 12, 2023

Fraga do Corvo, Monterrei DO (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2018 ($18, Think Global Wines):  Godello is a Spanish grape that deserves more recognition.  The Fraga do Corvo Godello is ample evidence of the variety’s potential.  Drawn from old vines in the Monterrei DO of northwestern Spain, the wine will impress your senses with its luscious aromas and flavors.  Scents of lemon, lime, apple and pear are enhanced by floral and herb elements.  On the palate, the juicy citrus fruits and interwoven with pear, herb and floral nuances.  The wine has a rich and layered texture, giving it a full and satisfying mouthfeel.  Serve it with roast chicken or flavorful seafood dishes.    
92 Wayne Belding Mar 31, 2020

Pazos de Rey, Monterrei DO (Galicia, Spain) Godello “Pazo de Monterrey” 2019 ($15, Aviva Vino):    Do.  Not.  Miss.  This.  Wine.  Made from an obscure grape (but not for long), from an obscure region (also not for long), this wine is a bargain.  The small, relatively unknown Monterrei DO (pronounced—Mon-ter-rey) is located in the southern part of Galicia near the Portuguese border.  Think of the Godello grape as Chardonnay with an edge.  Pazos de Rey’s 2019 is racy and bright, more mineral-y than fruity, with a delightful hint of lush creaminess.         
92 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2020

Benito Santos, Monterrei DO (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2018 ($18, Williams Corner Wine):  This pale straw-colored, 100 percent Godello opens with a fragrant and appealing bouquet of crushed stone, pithy citrus, and white flowers.  It is loaded with lemon peel, white blossom, stone fruit, fresh grass, salty sea air, and honey.  The flavors are buttressed by lively acidity that leads to a long and persistent finish.  Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc aficionados should give this one a try.         
91 Miranda Franco Jan 26, 2021

Mara Martin, Monterrei DO (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2020 ($15):  From the bodega Martin Codex, this white is made from the Godello variety which is native to Galicia.  The vineyard is located in the Monterrei DO in the warmer northwest corner and further inland from Rías Baixas.  From its straw-yellow color to its full body, it reflects the warmer growing conditions and stands in contrast to the effusive fruit and brisk finish associated with Albariños.  This 2020 offers up unusual aromatics of hay, wildflowers, chalk and a hint of apple fruit.  Round and generously mouth filling in the mid-palate, it has flavors again leaning toward the earthy, mineral side and ends on a leesy note.  Pleasant and slightly complex in a drink now style.      
88 Norm Roby Mar 29, 2022

Terras Gauda, O Rosal (Rias Baixas, Galicia) 2007 ($24, AV Brands): This delicious wine is a blend of 70% Albariño, 20% Loureira and 10% Caiño Blanco.  It shows notable weight and depth of flavor, with fruit notes recalling peaches and apples along with a pleasant floral topnote and a very nice mineral tinge to the finish.  Substantial but still very fresh, this is one of the best vintages of this wine that I’ve ever tasted. 92 Michael Franz Jun 30, 2009

Valmiñor, O Rosal (Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain) 2006 ($14, Kysela): This is a killer wine for summer at a great price with--finally--an closure that will do justice to the wine now and for another year or longer.  The fruit is nicely perfumed with scents of white flowers shows a vivid peach profile on the palate, with real roundness and substance but also plenty of linear thrust into a persistent finish that is freshened by zesty acidity.  US importer Fran Kysela badgered Valmiñor to send his allotment of the wine under a screw cap closure, and the bottle that I tasted in the USA was actually fresher than one tasted in Rias Baixas (just five days previously) despite having been shipped for thousands of miles. 90 Michael Franz Jul 24, 2007

Terras Gauda, O Rosal, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) 2015 ($24, Baron Francois): An Albariño blend from the O Rosal subdistrict of Rias Baixas, including two local varieties that are new to me, this makes for a tasty drink.  Bright citrus, white flowers and mixed stone fruit aromas and flavors are delivered on a honeyed but lively texture, finishing long and tart with a sweet pink grapefruit note coming forward at the end.  Very nice!  Contains 70% Albariño, 20% Caiño Blanco and 10% Louriera.
92 Rich Cook Nov 29, 2016

Do Ferreiro, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2020 ($27, De Maison Selections):  Do Ferreiro has long been a favorite of mine.  It's the model of how good Albariño can be.  The 2020 vintage is a superb expression of Albariño's strengths — expressive, structured, chiseled stone quality, vibrant acidity, with ample citrus and stone fruit flavors.  This is exceedingly drinkable with a salty sensation on the finish, like a glass of ocean air.  For those who love impressions of acidity and saltiness in their white wines, this is for you.  The pronounced salinity makes this ideal for serving alongside a variety of tapas, especially seafood.    
94 Miranda Franco Mar 8, 2022

Vionta, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2004 ($18, Freixenet): The magic of Albarino is its steely acidity combined with a luscious fruit character that would seem improbable because of the high acid. This makes for a white wine that is both easy to drink and refreshing. It's at its best when paired with steamed shellfish or raw oysters. 93 Robert Whitley Sep 1, 2005

Adegas Gran Vinum, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($27, Grapes of Spain): This is one of the two or three best, most serious renderings of Albariño that I’ve tasted from the 2008 vintage.  The wine is big and rich and full of substantial flavor, and yet it is also lifted and nimble, thanks to lots of fresh acidity and a notable portion of unresolved carbon dioxide that provides a hint of spritziness that freshens the mouthfeel right through the finish.  Flavors of ripe peaches and baked apples are deep and impressive, and whereas most Albariños are really only suited to light fare, this could stand up to substantial preparations of fish or cicken. 92 Michael Franz Sep 8, 2009

Bodegas La Caña, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Navia” 2020 ($32, Jorge Ordoñez Selections):  Bodegas La Caña was founded in 2008 by pioneering Spanish wine importer Jorge Ordoñez, who was among the first to introduce Rías Baixas Albariño to the US market.  The 2020 “Navia” Albariño displays bright aromas of salted lemon, white peach, green mango, fresh green herbs, and sea salt.  Smooth yet chiseled on the palate, with abundant flavors ranging from citrus, stone, and tropical fruits to a delightful kiss of honeysuckle.  The salinity found on the palate only enhances the fruit's notes.  This is truly a remarkable wine to pair with anything from the sea.       
92 Miranda Franco Dec 12, 2023

Essencia Diviña, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($23, Grapes of Spain): An exemplary rendition of Albariño, Spain’s premier white grape variety, this shows lots of rich, softly ripe peach fruit.  However, the initial impression of ripeness almost immediately gives way to a more interesting profile as the wine shows its structural spine of driving acidity, as well as a faint effervescence from unresolved carbon dioxide that provides additional lift and textural definition. 92 Michael Franz Aug 4, 2009

Fillaboa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($18, Folio Wine Company):  Seemingly always among the handful of best Albariños in every vintage from Rias Baixas, this wine excels once again in 2008.  The aromas and flavors are intricate and very precise, with notes of white peach, delicate flowers and citrus fruit.  Light and very fresh but still substantial and deep in flavor, the acidic structure is perfectly tuned to the wine’s weight and intensity.  Exceptionally well made, this is a great sipping wine or a wonderful partner for all sorts of shellfish dishes or delicate preparations of finfish. 92 Michael Franz Jan 12, 2010

Fillaboa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2005 ($20): Always among the top white wines of Spain, Fillaboa is smashingly good in 2005. It suceeds by dint of an unusual combination of exceptionally energetic acidity with exceptionally impressive weight and depth. Fruit notes of green apples and white peaches are very pure and precise, with subtle mineral undertones adding interest to the bright, long finish. 92 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2006

Lagar de Costa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Rego do Sol” 2021 ($22, SAWM Imports):  Hailing from the sprawling wine region of Rías Baixas, which touches the Atlantic Ocean in northwest Spain, this Albariño has a radiant straw-yellow core and offers fresh aromas of white flowers, citrus fruits, stone fruits offset by supporting notes of sea brine and slate.  Refreshing swells of citrus fruit storm the palate alongside a soft minerality enhanced by bright, mouthwatering acidity.  Pair this with shellfish or octopus, and you will feel transported to Spain’s coast.        
92 Miranda Franco Feb 14, 2023

Quinta de Couselo, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2007 ($22, Antalva Imports): This is one of the best Albariños that I've tasted from the 2007 vintage.  Although I am thoroughly convinced that this grape can hold its own with the world's most noble white varieties, all-too-many renditions are over-cropped, resulting in an underwhelming profile that includes faint aromas, a rather watery mid-palate, and a disappointingly short finish.  In direct contrast to this profile, the 2007 from Quinta de Couselo features expressive aromatics with notes of peaches and fresh flowers, a rich, rounded feel in the mouth, and a satisfying finish in which the peach fruit flavors are lifted and lengthened by fresh citrus acidity.  If you've read about how exciting Albariño can be, but have been disappointed by the actual performance of the bottlings you've tried, this is a wine that can show you what all the fuss is about. 92 Michael Franz Sep 23, 2008

Adegas d’Altamira, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Seleccion” 2006 ($29, Quintessential): This high-end Albariño seems to show a winemaking influence from wood, and an unusually successful one at that.  The influence is quite subtle, and is expressed in slightly more developed color than is commonly the case, and a broader, deeper midpalate.  However, the wine retains freshness and clear primary fruit recalling peaches and baked apples, and when paired with food, it shows unusually impressive ability to hold its own even with relatively assertive flavors. 91 Michael Franz Jun 2, 2009

Burgans, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2019 ($16):  Said to be a special cuvée by Martin Codax from vineyard blocks behind the winery, this one is light in color but quite lively in aroma and flavors with melon and nectarine in the nose with lively, zippy flavors.  Some richness shows in the mouthfeel until brisk acidity with mineral highlights take over in an immensely long, lip-smacking finish.  Think shellfish!  Codax is a large cooperative winery drawing fruit from 500 local growers.  Its widely available white label Albariño is less edgy than this unusual version.  Burgans is the winery’s street address.      
91 Norm Roby Feb 16, 2021

Columna, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Granito” 2021 ($20, Ole & Obrigato):  The 2021 Columna Granito Albariño is a delicious and refreshing white.  Rías Baixas lies in northwestern Spain’s Galicia region.  Buffeted by winds off the Atlantic, Rías Baixas vineyards yield wines with a fresh, lively style.  Columna’s grapes are from 35+ year old pergola-trained vines grown on granitic soils in the Condado de Tea subdistrict.  The 2021 Albariño is a delight!  It shows pure, fresh melon, tangerine and lemon fruit scents backed by hints of honeysuckle and fresh herbs.  On the palate, it is brisk and lively with the citrus fruits enhanced by the floral and herbal tones.  Fresh seafood is the cuisine in coastal Galicia and the Columna Granito Albariño will be a superb match for your favorite seafood dishes.      
91 Wayne Belding Feb 14, 2023

Condes de Albarei, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2004 ($15, CIV): This lovely rendition of Spain's great Albariño grape shows juicy peach and melon fruit with impressive depth and juiciness, yet the wines is sharply defined by zesty acidity. Floral aromas lend additional complexity, and a slight spritziness adds textural dimension and freshness. Complete and convincing. 91 Michael Franz Aug 21, 2005

Deusa Nai, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2011 ($14, Vineyard Brands):  This wine, the fruit of a spin-off project by Rioja’s Marques de Caceres, has been consistently excellent from its first release.  Add to that its very attractive price and the very wise choice of a screw-top closure and it now looks like a challenger for the very best wines of Rias Baixas.  Classically styled, it shows outstanding balance between richness and freshness, with ample fruit recalling ripe peaches, lightly floral aromas, fresh citrus edging, and a long, symmetrical finish.  Juicy but very refreshing, this will work perfectly as a stand-alone aperitif, but also as a partner for a very wide range of foods. 91 Michael Franz Nov 27, 2012

Gran Vinum, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2004 ($25, Grapes of Spain): This is a great example of high-end Albariño, with no evidence of heavy-handed oak, which often mars these wines when they are crafted to make a 'statement.' It shows deep concentration and lots of complexity, with layers of aromas and flavors including floral, baked apple and ripe peach notes. Juicy but not obvious, it is beautifully balanced between primary fruit and secondary nuances. 91 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2006

Mar de Frades, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2012 ($19, W.J. Deutsch & Sons): This fine Albariño shows a shy stony nose, with soft white flowers and some pear at pop and pour.  With a little air time it sings varietal character -- big acid, stone, sour pear and faint herb on the palate -- leading to a long, blooming mineral driven finish that's not short on fruit and spice.  Very crisp and refreshing.  I love the balance of stone and fruit here.
91 Rich Cook Sep 16, 2014

Marqués de Cáceres, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino “Deusa Nai” 2017 ($19, Vineyard Roads):  This famous Rioja bodega has been turning out excellent Albariño under this proprietary label for several years now, and the 2017 is certainly no exception.  Although many houses in Rias Baixas already have 2018 as their current release in the USA, don’t shy away from this based on a concern that it may lack freshness.  On the contrary, this is delightfully tart and refreshing for the summer season now upon us, with zesty acidity lending a taut, linear character to the wine.  There’s less of the rounded mouthfeel than this has shown in some previous vintages, but still plenty of stone fruit flavor to keep this seeming as generous as it is bright. 
91 Michael Franz Jun 25, 2019

Terras Gauda, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) O Rosal 2012 ($24, Aveniu Brands): From its evocative fragrance accenting both floral and spice components, to its rich, complex fruit flavors, this is a wine that is comfortably familiar in texture and plush mouth-feel yet at the same time it seems thrillingly mysterious for those of us not routinely exposed to this happy mélange of Spanish grapes (70% Albariño, 18% Loureiro and 12% Caiño Blanco).  After reveling in the sheer pleasure of this wine from the O Rosal subdistrict of Rias Baixas, with its generous taste and texture, the energizing, palate-slapping, mineral-laden finish kicks in.  You may well exclaim a pleasurable “O!”
91 Marguerite Thomas Jun 4, 2013

As Laxas, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2010 ($22, Frontier Wine Imports):  A sumptuous example of what has become Spain’s most popular white wine, this Albariño offers aromas reminiscent of spring flowers and citrus, followed by peach and sweet apple fruit flavors, with plenty of crisp acidity to provide both refreshment and structure.  Prices for first-class Albariño have gone up recently, frequently as with this one crossing the $20 threshold.  This wine, though, is worth the extra expense. 90 Paul Lukacs Dec 20, 2011

Bodegas Terras Gauda, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino “Abadia de San Campio” 2015 ($20, Baron Francois): A beautifully dry and crisp Albarinõ, with aromas of pear, lychee, white flowers, apple and citrus.  The citrus takes the lead on the palate, making for a tart, refreshing wine that's built for oysters and other shellfish.  The viscosity extends the finish, with searing acidity keeping the bright citrus fruit alive and inviting another sip.  I'm a fan of this style.
90 Rich Cook Nov 29, 2016

Deusa Nai, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2010 ($18, Vineyard Brands):  An impressive Albariño, filled with stone-fruit flavors and distinguished by an intriguing floral bouquet.  Long and lean on the palate, it has sufficient heft to pair well with fairly hearty seafood and poultry dishes, but at the same times always feels bright and refreshing.  A delightful wine to take outdoors when the weather starts to turn warm. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 6, 2012

Eidos de Padriñán, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2007 ($25, Classical Wines): This excellent Albariño shows plenty of richness and concentration, which sets it apart from many wines currently coming to our shores from Rias Baixas (which are too often watery and diluted from excessive yields).  Aromas of fresh flowers and ripe peaches are very pleasant, and the peach note comes through on the palate as well.  There's plenty of zesty acidity to lift the finish, which is balanced and persistent. 90 Michael Franz Feb 10, 2009

Fillaboa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2007 ($21, Folio): Consistently one of the finest producers of Albariño in Rias Baixas, Fillaboa does not disappoint with this 2007, a wine of excellent balance and expression.  The fruit flavors seem rich and sensuous, but the wine offers plenty of acidity and lift, so that the final impression is very harmonious. 90 Paul Lukacs Mar 3, 2009

Fillaboa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2007 ($19, Folio): One of the great attributes of Albarino is its remarkable complexity given the fact that it seldom achieves a high degree of ripeness, alcohol levels are consistently modest and there is never (or seldom) any wood component to spice up the finished product. Fillaboa's '07 shows generous flesh in a wine that is weighty by Albarino standards -- round, plump and delicious. Lovely aromas of stone fruit and citrus dominate, but there's even a slightly tropical note that is unusual for this sometimes austere (in very cold years) grape variety. 90 Robert Whitley Jul 29, 2008

Finca de Arantei, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2005 ($22, Winebow): An enticing Albarino, evidencing all the qualities that have made this Spanish varietal so popular:  crisp, refreshing flavors, a supple, almost waxy texture, and underlying minerality to provide complexity.  The wine has good structure and plenty of acidity, so
is in no danger of turning tired.  In my experience, though, Albarino is almost always best when fresh and young, so I wouldn't want to wait too long to enjoy this one. 90 Paul Lukacs Jun 12, 2007

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2007 ($15, Martin Codax USA): Martin Codax is undoubtedly among the finest cooperatives in the world, with the ability to exert tremendous control over its vineyard sources to achieve good quality. That shows in its consistently fine Albarino, and the 2007 vintage is simply the latest in a long string of top-notch wines. The '07 is crisper and more dominated by green and yellow citrus aromas, and slightly less fleshy than some previous vintages, but that's a plus rather than a minus where Albarino is concerned. If you like steamed clams or freshly shucked oysters, you could hardly find a better match. 90 Robert Whitley Jan 13, 2009

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2010 ($15, Martin Codax USA):  This wine is imported by Gallo, which is important simply because it gives readers living in small markets a fighting chance to get their mitts on a high-quality Albariño.  This is indeed a high quality wine, with concentration and flavor impact that is notably above average for the genre.  However, these characteristics weren’t purchased at the price of imbalance or obviousness, as the wine is sharply defined by refreshing citrus acidity and shows nice nuances in both the aromas and flavors.  There’s a lot to like in this wine. 90 Michael Franz Jun 21, 2011

Morgadio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2009 ($23, Classical Wines):  Always among the top bottlings in each vintage from Rias Baixas, Morgadio is particularly appealing in 2009.  It shows classic balance between ripe peach fruit in the midpalate and a zesty edge of citrus in the finish, and yet the wine is so integrated that the sensations seem continuous rather than set off against one another.  Whereas a lot of bottlings from Rias Baixas are marred these days by diluted midpalates that leave them seeming unsatisfying, this wine delivers. 90 Michael Franz Oct 26, 2010

Morgadio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2004 ($20, Classical Wines): Morgadío was one of the pioneer Albariño wines in the U.S., thanks to Steve Metzler of Classical Wines, and remains one of the best. The 2004 has citrus, minerally, floral aromas, is dry, with crisp acidity, and good length. 90 Ed McCarthy Mar 7, 2006

Nessa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2007 ($12, Grapes of Spain): Good luck finding another white wine from Spain--or almost anywhere else, for that matter--that will offer this much pleasure and versatility for $12.  Uncommonly rich and deeply flavored for a relatively affordable Albariño, it shows medium to full body, with just a hint of sweetness filling out the midpalate and fleshing out the mouthfeel.  Nice peach and papaya notes are freshened by very zesty balancing acidity that is well integrated with the fruit. 90 Michael Franz May 6, 2008

Nessa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2010 ($17, Grapes of Spain):  This is the first Albariño that I’ve tasted from the 2010 vintage, and it certainly bodes well for the vintage.  Although I have been disappointed with many of these wines during the past few years, finding them distressingly diluted, thin and short, this rendition shows real depth and persistence of flavor.  Yet it remains nimble and fresh, with lots of bright acidity and a welcome prickle from unresolved carbon dioxide.  Clearly bottled early and directly from steel tanks, it seems to convey all of the primary fruit character (suggesting white peach above all) held by the grapes when they were picked last autumn.  A terrific aperitif, but likewise very well suited to shellfish or lighter finfish preparations. 90 Michael Franz Apr 12, 2011

Paco & Lola, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($20, Acadia Imports):  In the northwestern region of Spain known as Galcia, there are many Rias, deep wide inlets that penetrate many miles inland from the Atlantic Ocean.  The southern group is known as Rias Baixas, home to Spain’s most distinctive white wine -- Albariño.  The Paco & Lola Albariño, clad in its distinctive polka dot label, has a brilliant medium gold color, forward ripe peach aroma, lively acidity, loads of fruit, with citrus and herbal accents.  This lively juicy wine finishes with a modest 12.5% alcohol and is just right with California Roll

Pazo de Senorans, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2005 ($16, Polaner Selections): Minerality and herbal notes balance a refreshing edginess from the almost effervescent-like acidity. A lovely persistent finish completes the picture. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006

Pazo de Señoráns, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($23, Eric Solomon Selections):  This family-run winery makes consistently impressive Albariño.  Their 2009 is no exception.  They achieve a hint of roundness to this otherwise edgy wine by aging it on the lees for four months.  It’s a classy wine with considerable body without sacrificing the quintessential zippy character of Albariño. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 13, 2010

Serra Estrela, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2004 ($15, Global Vineyard Importers): This is a complete and convincing Albariño that strikes an excellent balance between ripe substance and crisp refreshment. Floral scents intermingle with peachy fruit and mineral undertones to produce a fine bouquet, and excellent interplay between moderately rich fruit and piercing acidity make this very interesting in flavor and texture. Delicious and highly versatile with food, this is a clear winner. 90 Michael Franz Feb 28, 2006

Vionta, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2004 ($18, Freixenet USA): The 2004 Vionta, a single-vineyard wine, might be this estate's best wine yet. It is dry and crisp, concentrated, with good length, a great combination of richness along with tart, green-apple flavors. From the Salnés Valley. 90 Ed McCarthy Mar 7, 2006

Agro de Bazan, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino "Granbazán Ambar" 2004 ($16, Classical Wines): A somewhat restrained Albarino, this wine offers genuine varietal flavor and beautiful balance. Like so many wines made from this grape variety, the wine tastes fresh and lively, with fruit flavors that echo peaches and apricots. Yet while many Rias Baixas producers seem to be trying to make their wines in a richer style these days, Agro de Bazan's "Granzbazán Ambar" remains light and delicate--a gentle, almost gentile wine with a core of warmth beneath its cold, almost steely exterior. In that, it seems redolent of spring. 89 Paul Lukacs Mar 28, 2006

Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2004 ($21, Kobrand): I've been very careful to taste every Albariño that I could get my hands on, and yet this one is new to me. I'm always a bit curious about wines that are a year behind the vintage of the current crop, but this bottling is unquestionably still at the top of its game, and the acidity is still so fresh and zesty that it may indeed get better yet with a few months of additional development. The fruit recalls tart green apples with backnotes of melon and hay, and though the body is light to medium, there's quite a bit of flavor to enjoy before the acidity kicks in to assure a finish that is very refreshing. 89 Michael Franz Jul 25, 2006

Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006 ($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is.  And that's a shame because it's a wine whose name is worth remembering.   Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal.  But its fleshier middle and long finish make it stand apart from the masses. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2008

Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006 ($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is.  And that's a shame because it's a wine whose name is worth remembering.   Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal.  But its fleshier middle and long finish make it stand apart from the masses. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2008

Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006 ($23, Kobrand): The script on the label makes it tough for the consumer to know who the producer is.  And that's a shame because it's a wine whose name is worth remembering.   Aromatic with a cleansing citric finish, it has an attractive bite characteristic of the varietal.  But its fleshier middle and long finish make it stand apart from the masses. 89 Michael Apstein Sep 2, 2008

Esencia Diviña, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2005 ($19, Grapes of Spain): This is a complete, convincing Albariño crafted in the classic style for Rias Baixas, which marries moderately rich fruit with a clean, citrus-tinged finish. The fruit notes recall ripe peaches, with light floral aromatic accents and a nice little mineral note in the finish. 89 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2006

Lagar de Cervera, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006 ($21, Europvin): Often one of Spain's top Albariños, Lagar de Cervera is very strong in the 2006 vintage and the wine has really hit its stride at the current point in its development.  Subtle floral notes get it off to a good start, followed by lots of crisp fruit that is interlaced with fresh acidity.  Straddling the line between light and medium body, this will work with a very wide range of moderately robust seafood dishes, but would be especially suitable for almost any preparation of shellfish. 89 Michael Franz Mar 18, 2008

Laxas, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($18, Frontier): Rich and soft, with some lift from a little unresolved carbon dioxide and gentle acidity, this is a versatile Albariño that is substantial and generous in flavor and texture but still fresh and clean.  It is neither the richest nor the raciest wine from the appellation, but a very good wine with elements of both styles, and one that will be versatile and widely appreciated. 89 Michael Franz Aug 4, 2009

Martín Códax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006 ($13, Gallo): Now that the Spanish co-op Martín Códax has teamed up with E&J Gallo, the wines will surely become much more visible in the US--good news for wine drinkers who love to find quality wines at affordable prices (is their any other kind of wine drinker?)  This Albariño, created by Luciano Amoedo (a ninth generation winemaker and one of the founders of Martín Códax) is a dry, nicely balanced white wine that is crisp and delicate yet weighty enough to stand up to moderately spicy food (and it's terrific with shellfish). 89 Marguerite Thomas May 8, 2007

Nessa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2009 ($17, Grapes of Spain):  This is a fresh but juicy and satisfying Albariño that can work beautifully as an aperitif wine for casual sipping while also proving successful at the table.  Subtle floral aromas are quite appealing, followed by generous fruit recalling ripe peaches.  The finish is focused and lifted by a shot of citrus acidity, making this a very promising partner for oysters, clams or mussels. 89 Michael Franz Aug 3, 2010

Pazo de Barrantes, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2004 ($18, Eber Brothers; Paramount): The 2004 Pazo de Barrantes has rather intense aromas of grapefruit and peach, is rich and weighty, with concentrated citrus flavors and good length. From the Salnés Valley. 89 Ed McCarthy Mar 7, 2006

Pazo de Señorans, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2005 ($22, European Cellars/Eric Solomon): Pazo de Señorans is delcious a always in 2005, with ripe, soft fruit notes that show substantial weight and depth of flavor. Although not terribly complex, the wine is very well integrated, with a seamless relation of fruit to acidic structure. Juicy but focused and fresh, this will suit most fish dishes that don't involve serious grill charring, as well as moderately robust shellfish pasta dishes. 89 Michael Franz Jul 18, 2006

Terras Gauda, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 'Abadia de San Campio 2004 ($17, AV Imports; Paramount Brands): The 2004 Abadia de San Campio of Terras Gauda has a deep lemon yellow color, intense aromas of ripe apple and hints of orange, along with flavors of peach and apricot. It is dry, with a silky texture, subdued acidity, and good concentration. From the O Rosal sub-zone. 89 Ed McCarthy Mar 7, 2006

Valminor, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2005 ($16, Kysela): Lamentably, the days of $10 Albariño are possibly gone forever, due to the combined effects of increasing global demand for these wines, constrained supply of grapes, and unfavorable exchange rates that show no sign of shifting appreciably. Nevertheless, fine Albariño is one of the world's best white wines, and the fact remains that one can still find truly delicious renditions priced under $20. This wine offers medium-bodied fruit recalling peaches and ripe golden apples, and zesty acidity rides alongside these flavors through a long, balanced finish. 89 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2006

Valminor, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2007 ($15, Kysela): Exhibiting the soft texture, vibrant floral aromas, and succulent fruit flavors typical of the varietal, this is a delicious Albariño.  It seems fully mature, so while it should provide very satisfying drinking this summer, I wouldn't hold onto it past Labor Day.  89 Paul Lukacs Apr 21, 2009

Abadia de San Campio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($24, AV Brands): Certainly an attractive wine, showing this grape’s characteristically rich peach and apricot fruit flavors, along with an appropriately taut but long finish.  The only thing preventing it from meriting top honors is a somewhat muted bouquet.  And with Albariño, exotic, suggestive aromas usually constitute a big part of the varietal’s appeal. 88 Paul Lukacs Sep 22, 2009

Adegas Gran Vinum, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño "Esencia Diviña" 2004 ($19, Grapes of Spain): This delicate, well-integrated Albariño features very nice fruit notes recalling peaches, along with subtle mineral notes and soft acidity. Medium-bodied and highly versatile, this will pair beautifully with a wide range of seafood dishes. 88 Michael Franz Feb 21, 2006

Brandal, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2007 ($20, Quintessential): This wine shows mixed results, as it is impressively rich and broad in texture, but fairly subdued in aroma, and a bit simple and short in the finish.  For sheer weight and concentration, it is among the best Albariños I've tasted in recent months, showing real seriousness on the part of the producer, but it is just not quite expressive enough to merit a top score. 88 Michael Franz Jun 2, 2009

Condes de Albarei, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($13, CIV USA):

Condes de Albarei, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($12, CIV USA):

Prices for Albariño from northwestern Spain seem to have only gone up since the varietal was discovered by American wine drinkers earlier in this decade.  The category used to represent good value, but bargains now are hard to find.  Here’s one.  Medium-bodied, the wine is fresh and lively, with the floral aroma and slightly bitter echo of apricot that seems so typical of the varietal.  Not a wine for aging, it should provide plenty of pleasure well into the summer.

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2009 ($15, Spanish Table Wines):  With aromas of peaches and pineapple, this fresh and flavorful white has flavors of pineapple and pear, with zippy acidity.  The wine has been softened a bit by malolactic fermentation, but it still has lots of acidity and freshness. 88 Tina Caputo Nov 23, 2010

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006 ($15, Martin Codax USA): This may be the bottling that alerts the American mainstream to the considerable charms of Albariño, Spain's finest white wine variety.  Widely circulated (now by Gallo) and very fairly priced, it offers nice fruit notes of peaches and red apples, along with a nice little floral streak and a hint of minerality.  Pair with almost any relatively light seafood dish, but especially small steamed clams. 88 Michael Franz May 29, 2007

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2012 ($15):  The Albariño grape grown in Rias Baixas makes distinctive wine, which has become, justifiably, very hot recently because its edginess makes it a good choice with a wide variety of food.  The 2012 from Martín Códax has a hint of that edginess, but also delivers some subtle tropical flavors that makes it a good introduction for those who are just starting to embrace this grape and wine.  It actually has a softness that allows for enjoyment as a stand-alone aperitif type wine, but enough crispness to pop the cork (or more accurately unscrew the screw top) with freshly grilled fish. 88 Michael Apstein Dec 10, 2013

Martin Códax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006 ($15, Martin Códax USA): A lively but subtle Albarino, marked by summer fruit and citrus flavors and the varietal's characteristic somewhat waxy texture, this wine, now being imported in cooperation with E & J Gallo, offers delicious aperitif sipping.  It also will go well with light fare, especially seafood, though I would be careful about pairing it with forceful flavors.  The wine's charm comes in its delicacy. 88 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2007

Pazo Barrantes, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006 ($22, Maisons Marques and Domaines): Marqués de Murrieta, rightly known for their stylish wines from Rioja, recently purchased a property in Rias Baixas, Pazo Barrantes, and are now offering an Albariño to the public.  A rather fuller style of Albariño--with more mid-palate texture and a stone fruit quality--it has less of the biting acidity characteristic of this grape.  It is a softer, friendlier style--not quite as cutting as most. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 11, 2008

Pazo San Mauro, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2004 ($20, Billington Imports): The 2004 Pazo San Mauro, from the Condado de Tea sub-zone, has fresh apple aromas, good concentration, and flavors that are sweet and tart at the same time, like mango. It is sleek and lean, still a bit tight. 88 Ed McCarthy Mar 7, 2006

Salneval, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 'Condes de Albarei' 2004 ($15, C.I.V. USA): The 2004 Condes de Albarei has broad apple and mineral aromas, is dry with crisp acidity and lots of weight, and flavors of green apple. From the Salnés Valley. 88 Ed McCarthy Mar 7, 2006

Santiago Ruiz, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 'Santa Ruiz' 2004 ($17, Monsieur Touton; Grape Expectations): The 2004 Santa Ruiz has a deep straw color, aromas of apple and passion fruit, with flavors suggesting apple and orange. It is dry, with crisp acidity, more earthy and minerally than aromatic. From O Rosal. 88 Ed McCarthy Mar 7, 2006

Torre La Moreira, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2004 ($12, Wine Collection): Torre La Moreira, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño, Marques de Vizhoja 2004 ($12, Spain Wine Collection): The 2004 Marques de Vizhoja has intense aromas of lemon peel, honey and ripe apple. It is dry, with earthy, minerally flavors. From Condado do Tea. 88 Ed McCarthy Mar 7, 2006

Valminor, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2007 ($15, Kysela): Valminor's Albariños are consistently top-notch examples of what this grape can do in Rias Baixas in northwest Spain.  They smell and taste exotically suggestive, full-flavored but light in body, so seem almost nimble when you sip them.  This 2007 is delicious now and should provide lots of pleasure into the warm, summer months. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 10, 2009

Verdemar, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2009 ($14, Underdog Wine Merchants):  Displaying the varietal’s characteristic rich texture married to clean, bright fruit flavors, this is a fairly-priced Albariño.  An outpost of Montecillo, the popular Rioja firm, it does finish slightly hot, that being the only thing preventing it from an outstanding rating. 88 Paul Lukacs Dec 28, 2010

Bodega Don Olegrio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006 ($20, Kobrand):  The script label makes deciphering the producer’s name difficult, but that should not deter consumers from reaching for the bottle.  A softer--some would say “friendlier”--style of Albariño, it still has sufficient brightness and verve to hold your interest throughout a meal.  A creamy patina adds a mellow touch to the underlying spark. 87 Michael Apstein Oct 13, 2009

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 'Burgans' 2004 ($12, Eric Solomon): Martin Codax Albariños are perhaps the most easily found in the U.S. The 2004 Burgans has mineral aromas and a hint of apple, with ripe apple and melony flavors. It is fairly low in acidity and a bit sweet, but quite aromatic. From the Salnés Valley. 87 Ed McCarthy Mar 7, 2006

Montecillo, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Verdemar” 2009 ($11, Underdog Wine Merchants):  Montecillo makes wonderful Rioja.  It turns out they do an admirable job with Albariño as well.  The Verdemar has a certain Muscadet-like character to it with an appealing chalky minerality and bright acidity.  It would be an excellent choice for simply broiled fish. Look at the price. 87 Michael Apstein Feb 1, 2011

Nessa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2005 ($13, Grapes of Spain): It has become quite difficult to find affordable renditions of Albariño from Spain, partly due to insufficient supply and partly due to unfavorable exchange rates for US importers working with a weak dollar when buying wines sold in euros. That reality makes this delicious wine all the more newsworthy. It is made in the simple, fresh, high-acid, primary fruit style, with lots of bright citrus notes enlivening the typical core of peach fruit. It is a bit simple, but true to the variety and very refreshing. 87 Michael Franz Aug 8, 2006

Sierra de Estrela, Rias Baixas (Spain) Albarino 2007 ($18, Palm Bay International): Not as expressive aromatically as the finest Albarinos from Rias Baixas, this wine nonetheless succeeds deliciously on the palate.  Its supple fruit flavors prove well-balanced and harmonious, and its finish is surprisingly long and layered. 87 Paul Lukacs Apr 28, 2009

Bodegas Montecillo, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2008 ($13, Underdog Wine Merchants): Bodegas Montecillo, an excellent Rioja-based producer, is branching out.  Like many established Spanish producers who are based outside of the Rias Baixas region on Spain’s northwest corner, Montecillo is jumping on the Albariño bandwagon with this wine they call Verdemar.  Fresh and lively, it has an almost spritzy acidity with makes it an all-around winner for simple seafood this summer. 86 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2009

Pazo Barrantes, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2006 ($23, Maisons Marques and Domaines): The current release of this wine in the United States hails from the 2006 vintage, so is now some 20 months old.  That may explain why it tastes a bit heavy.  The wine is in no sense bad; but when trying it, I missed the vibrant peach and pear flavors typical of this summer-weight varietal.  I suspect that it would have merited a higher score six or nine months ago, as in my experience Albariños taste best when they are fresh. 85 Paul Lukacs Jun 10, 2008

Viontá, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2005 ($16, Freixenet USA): Ten years ago, practically no one had heard of Albariño; nowadays, it is one of the hottest white varietal wines around, especially in the U.S. Rías Baixas is a wine region in Galicia, a province of northwest Spain hugging the Atlantic. We think of Spain as hot and dry, often barren and desert-like; not so Rías Baixas! The region is cool, damp, and verdant green the year around. These conditions are perfect for the aromatic, thick-skinned Albariño variety, which thrives in this climate. The 2005 Viontá, with 12.5% alcohol, has fresh, penetrating aromas and flavors of apple and grapefruit skin, with good concentration. It is dry, has crisp acidity, and orange and lemon flavors that emerge with aeration. The 2004 Viontá Albariño, available now (the 2005 is just starting to appear) might even be better than the 2005. 91 Ed McCarthy Jun 27, 2006

Burgáns, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2015 ($13, Eric Solomon Selection): The 2015 Burgáns Albariño shows the attractive characteristics of Rías Baixas wines.  Located in Galicia, on the Atlantic coast of Spain, Rías Baixas wines are among the world’s most refreshing beverages.  Cooled by winds off the Atlantic, the Albariño vines offer up wines with a pure and lively style.  The 2015 Burgáns Albariño is emblematic of Rías Baixas character.   It shows pure, fresh tangerine and lemon fruit scents followed by hints of honeysuckle and fresh herbs.  The flavors are bright, lively and elementally refreshing.  The citrus fruits are enhanced by the lovely floral and fresh herb tones.  Serve it as the Galicians do -- with the freshest seafood you can find.
90 Wayne Belding Sep 13, 2016

Bodegas Terras Gauda, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Abadia de San Campio” 2006 ($18, Dana Wine & Spirits): Full-flavored but delicately-scented, with intriguing floral notes and satisfyingly long citrus notes on the palate.  A textbook Albariño, this is a wine to pair with seafood and salads.  Freshness constitutes its primary charm. 88 Paul Lukacs Feb 5, 2008

Granbazán, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Etiqueta Ambar” 2019 ($24, Europvin USA):  Rias Baixas (Ree ahs Bye shus) is located in Galicia in an area called “Green Spain.”  It is shaped roughly like a square that creates the north-west corner of Spain.  It is truly green because of the Atlantic Ocean on its west and north sides, the inlets, or rias, made by the Atlantic into the coastline estuaries, and the Minho River that creates the southern border between Spain and Portugal.  Here, on both sides of the Minho, the white grape Albariño or Alvarihno is queen.  In this region Albariño is grown on trellises about six feet tall, which allows airflow among the vines to prevent mildew in this cool moist area.  This grape vine likes to sprawl across the top of the pergola where it gets plenty of sunlight.  At Bodegas Granbazan the focus is solely on Albariño.  The Etiqueta Ambar (Amber Label) is their signature wine made from 100% free run from their oldest vines.  It is a dry wine displaying a pale golden color and lovely tropical fruit flavors of pineapple and mango, along with grapefruit and light floral notes.  The luscious flavors are balanced with bright acidity.  Enjoy it with fresh seafood like crab or shrimp, ceviche, or sashimi.       
95 Rebecca Murphy Dec 7, 2021

Adegas Gran Vinum, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albarino “Esencia Diviña” 2019 ($24, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This producer’s entry-level bottling of Albariño, “Mar de Viñas,” is so good that it prompts the question:  How could this fruit have failed to make the cut for the top wine of the house?  If you taste “Mar de Viñas,” you’ll understand immediately why that’s a compelling question, and if you taste this right afterward, you’ll get a compelling answer.  Broader, richer, deeper and even more persistent, but with excellent focus despite its relative opulence, this is flat-out great Albariño.  It displays subtle but expressive aromas that become ever more detailed as the wine warms in the glass, and the palate performance is every bit as impressive, with perfectly ripened fruit and excellent acidity and minerality that’s impeccably interlaced with the fruit.  A completely convincing rendition of Albariño, which is arguably the world’s best and most versatile vinous partner for seafood.    
94 Michael Franz Jul 21, 2020

Adegas Gran Vinum, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albarino “Mar de Viñas” 2019 ($18, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  I’d bet my house that if you tasted this without me having tipped you off, you’d never guess this is a producer’s “second wine.”  And if that were indeed to happen, nobody could blame you for failing to guess that, as this is better than most Albariño producers’ flagship bottling.  It shows lovely aromas recalling white blossoms that aren’t too perfumed, followed by juicy, utterly delicious flavors recalling white peaches and melons, with a squeeze of lemon to lend focus and edge.  The flavors are underlain by light touch of saline minerality, which rides though the persistent, proportional finish.   
92 Michael Franz Jul 21, 2020

Bodegas Granbazan, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Etiqueta Ambar” 2020 ($23):  Riás Baixas, a small area tucked away in Galicia in north western Spain, can make cutting white wines, like this one, from the Albariño grape.  Grandbazan’s 2020 delivers a hint of grapefruit rind pithiness and good depth.  Not a pre-dinner sipping wine because it might take the enamel off your teeth.  Typically, it is a wine for the summer, because of its edginess and refreshing character.   But frankly, it goes equally well at this time of the year with tomato-based seafood dishes because of both its acidity and body.            
92 Michael Apstein Nov 16, 2021

Burgans, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2019 ($16, European Cellars):  Albariño is the principal grape variety in the Rias Baixas wine region in Galicia in northwestern Spain.  It shares a southern border with Portugal where the grape is also grown and called Alvarinho.  With the Atlantic Ocean as its western border, the climate is cool and wet with average rainfall of 67 inches annually.  Obviously, Albariño thrives in this environment, and this one is an excellent example with juicy peach, pear and lime zest aromas and flavors that tickle the taste buds.  While the fruit is lush, the crisp, vibrant acidity lifts the flavors and offers a long finish.  It is a perfect wine for seafood, which is plentiful in its home.  So, serve it with fresh oysters, crabmeat, or octopus.  Burgans is the name of a wine that was produced for European Cellars, a U.S. wine import company, at the cooperative winery Martin Codax.  The cooperative winery was created in 1986 by a group of families with small vineyard plots.  Luciano Amoedo, a ninth generation winemaker, leads the organization.  He is one of the founders of the Rias Baixas appellation and of the winery.  Since 2005, Katia Alvarez the has been in charge of the day-to-day winemaking.  I had the privilege to meet her at the winery a few years ago during a media trip.  She showed us a wine that had been made from grapes that had a botrytis infection at harvest.  Botrytis, also called noble rot, is a mold that can dehydrate the grapes, concentrating the sugars resulting in very sweet wines.  She and her crew worked incredibly quickly to harvest the grapes.  With a bit of luck with humidity along with her winemaking skills and flexibility dealing with unexpected gifts of nature, the finished wine was dry, intense and delicious.    
91 Rebecca Murphy Apr 13, 2021

Pazo Cilleiro, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2020 ($20, Quintessential Wines):  Nectarine, pear, apple and citrus are packed together on the nose of this fresh Albariño, that appear on the palate as lively flavors framed by the stony mineral core.  The flavors linger long, and there's a pleasant floral retronasal impression that hangs in the air.  Crisp, crisp, crisp!      
91 Rich Cook Nov 23, 2021

Bodegas Attis, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Sitta” Laranxa 2019 ($20):   The skin contact involved in making this 100 percent Albariño (essentially an “Orange Wine”) results in tantalizing scents of a picture-perfect bridal bouquet with orange peel, nectarine, white pear, and white flowers.  The palate features bright citrus flavors with a tinge of candied ginger and spice.  Fresh and beautifully balanced, the palate is elegantly styled and has a touch of salty minerality on the finish.  This is an outstanding food wine, but it drinks easily on its own as well.            
90 Miranda Franco Jul 20, 2021

Daterra Viticultores, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) “Erea do Pobo” 2020 ($60, José Pastor Selections):  Sadly, Daterra, the personal project of the incredibly talented Laura Lorenzo, has stopped the production of white wine.  So, the remaining bottles of Daterra Erea do Pobo on the market are likely all that remain.  Lorenzo is one of a few vintners who recently spearheaded a renaissance in Ribeira Sacra.  Her Erea do Pobo 2020 is a highly aromatic and elegant blend of 80 to 120-year-old Godello, Doña Blanca, and Treixadura.  It has fantastic lingering flavors of orchard fruit core, yellow grapefruit, white blossoms, and wild sage, all wrapped around a core of sea salt-laden minerality.  It has an intriguing texture with a dry, long, and utterly superb finish.         
95 Miranda Franco Mar 12, 2024

Guímaro, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) “Cepas Viejas” 2022 ($35, José Pastor Selections):  The vineyards of Ribeira Sacra, with their steep terraces, are some of the most picturesque yet treacherous to work in the world of wine.  This white Ribeira Sacra is sourced from various vineyards with vines planted on slate, granite, and sand that showcase the region's unique terroir.  This luscious, unoaked blend of Godello, complemented by a touch of Treixadura and Albariño, presents a delightful and invigorating experience.  The palate bursts with flavors of lemon zest, ripe pears, crisp yellow apple, and hints of honeysuckle, leading to a lively and refreshing finish.       
94 Miranda Franco May 7, 2024

Daterra, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) “Portela do Vento” Blanco 2018 ($35, Llaurador Wines):  Everyone’s talking about Galician wine now, and for a good reason.  The region has a rich history of winemaking.  It was long considered the best white wine region in Spain until war and disease contributed to the decline of winemaking traditions in the area.  Fortunately, the last several decades have seen fierce winemakers like Laura Lorenzo dedicated to revitalizing the region’s indigenous grapes and organic farming.  This commitment is demonstrated in her 2018 Portela do Vento Blanco from a blend of mainly Palomino, along with Doña Blanca, Godello, and Colgadiera.  The nose rings out with ripe orchard fruit, citrus, and hints of minerality.  On the palate, it is insanely fresh with bright acidity and a salty touch on the finish.         
93 Miranda Franco Jul 20, 2021

Peza do Rei, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) 2009 ($19, Classical Wines):  An exceptional over-achiever, this wine shows more complexity and character than many offered at twice the price, and is also a standout in its versatility with food.  A medium-bodied blend of 70% Godello, 20% Treixadura and 10% Albariño, it shows a wonderful balance of substantial weightiness with acidic definition.  Notes recalling stone fruits and ripe apples provide deep, lasting flavors in the midpalate, with citrus notes providing cut and definition in the finish.  Subtle but very interesting mineral tinges mark the finish, which is persistent and symmetrical.  Complete and convincing in every respect, this is so well balanced that it would be wonderful with all sorts of fish and shellfish dishes. 92 Michael Franz Oct 26, 2010

Adrás, Ribeira Sacra (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2013 ($19, Grapes of Spain): As a wine producing country, Spain is definitely stronger with reds than whites, and Aurelio Cabestrero’s portfolio reflects that in the sense that there are more red than white wines.  However, the relatively few whites that he brings to the USA are all near the top of the quality pyramids in their respective regions, and that’s certainly true for this lovely rendering of Godello.  Medium-bodied and very satisfying, with fresh aromas followed by delicious fruit recalling white peaches and poached pears, with excellent acidity that is very well integrated with the fruit.  There lots of punchy flavor here, but also a sense of real refinement.  Along with excellent renditions of Pinot Blanc, Godello can be one of the world’s most versatile whites for food-pairing purposes, to restaurateurs take note.
91 Michael Franz Oct 21, 2014

Bodegas El Paraguas, Ribeiro (Galicia, Spain) "Atlántico” Blanco 2020 ($34, Source Imports):  Galician winery Bodegas Paraguas works exclusively in Ribeiro and principally with the white grape variety, Treixadura.  Their El Paraguas “Atlántico” has twice been named the best white wine in Spain, yet it has not garnered as much notoriety in the United States.  The El Paraguas “Atlántico” 2020 contains 87% Treixadura, 10% Godello, and 3% Albariño.  It delivers notes of pear skin, green apple, white peach, honeysuckle, rock salt, orange zest, crushed chalk, and sea spray.  The palate has an incredible texture with a wave of fresh citrus acidity, bringing the exceedingly long finish to a refreshing close.     
93 Miranda Franco Dec 6, 2022

Casal de Arman, Ribeiro (Galicia, Spain) Treixadura 2012 ($22, Free Run LLC): Wow -- seek this wine out immediately! Flowers, pears, apple, white peach and mild toffee note entice you on the nose.  The palate is very lively and fresh -- it's viscous with a refreshing acid bite, delivering the nose with nice integration and a note of apricot added.  Top it off with a crazy long, blooming finish with emphasis on peppery spice. Delicious, and one of the best whites I've tasted this year.
93 Rich Cook Sep 16, 2014

Gallina de Piel, Ribeiro (Galicia, Spain) “Manar dos Seixas” 2018 ($37, Bluest Sky Group):  Two sommeliers, one of whom, David Seijas, worked at El Bulli, named the best restaurant in the world five times by Restaurant magazine, founded Gallina de Piel (which transliterates as “chicken skin” from Spanish, the equivalent of “goose bumps” in colloquial English). They travel around Spain finding unique wines to bottle under that label.  It’s aptly named.  Their wines, especially this one, could induce that reaction.  Manar dos Seixas, an enlivening blend of typical Ribeiro grapes, Treixadura, Godello, Albariño, and Loureiro Blanco, is refreshing and startling—in a nice way.  It could give you goose bumps.  Saline and taut, it is piercing, yet not aggressive because it has wonderful concentration.  It finishes with a delightful and invigorating subtle bitterness.  This chiseled, angular wine screams for shellfish, but I wouldn’t be fussy.  Any fish, even a tomato-based fish stew, would do.             
93 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2020

Luis Anxo Rodriguez Vázquez, Ribeiro (Galicia, Spain) “Eidos Ermos” 2016 ($16, Skurnik Wines):  Luis Anxo Rodriguez Vázquez has at least two things working against him, his size and location.  He has just over 12 acres spread over 100 tiny plots in the rather obscure DO of Ribeiro.  What he has going for him is the ability to make excellent wine.  The Ribeiro is a tiny DO in Galicia previously focused on bulk wines, but now producing note-worthy whites made from blends of local varieties, such as Treixadura, Lado, and Loureiro, to name just three, that are worth searching for.  This Eidos Ermos delivers delicate white flower notes buttressed by refreshing and mouth-cleansing acidity. 
93 Michael Apstein Sep 4, 2018

Senda Verde, Ribeiro (Galicia, Spain) Treixadura 2015 ($13, Winesellers Ltd.):  Don’t let the modest price tag fool you, this is an elegant and interesting wine made from Treixadura, a grape that is little-known in the US.  This white wine is intensely, appetizingly aromatic, with sweet and perfumy floral and fruit components.  Senda Verde stretches eastward from Galicia’s lush, green northern coastline, where the cool climate contributes to the crisp nature of the wine and to its refreshing green apple, lime peel and lightly honeyed flavors.
90 Marguerite Thomas Dec 12, 2017

Alvaredos-Hobbs, Ribera Sacra (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2019 ($75, Paul Hobbs Selections):  Paul Hobbs seems to always be on the search for new grapes to ferment.  Not long after launching his Finger Lakes Rieslings at Hillick & Hobbs, he now gives us a delectable white wine from the magical hills of Galicia in northeast Spain.  Any wine writer who has passed through the region has immediately fallen in love with Godello, and the Alvaredos-Hobbs iteration reminds us those first impressions were not merely love at first site.  This is a gorgeous, complex combo of rich but lean green flavors of lime and unripe gooseberries (the best way to eat them) blended with golden floral and nutty flavors of the grape itself as well as the time spent aging in barrels and foudres.  This is a full wine with the textures – but not tastes – of Napa Valley Chardonnays, and it will make a delicious companion to pork and poultry dishes.    
93 Roger Morris May 30, 2023

Pena das Donas, Ribera Sacra (Galicia, Spain) “Almalarga” 2009 ($21):  Consumers unfamiliar with the Godello grape are in for a treat.  Naturally high in acidity, its palate cleansing ability makes it an obvious choice for highly flavored dishes.  Pena das Donas’s rendition, from the small, relatively new DO of Ribera Sacra, undergoes lees-aging in tank, which adds complexity while still preserving the inherent fruitiness of the grape.  A lively freshness amplifies the wine’s minerality. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010

Salneval, Val de Salnes (Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2004 ($10, C.I.V.): I adore Albariño but lament the fact that currency exchange rates and rising demand have conspired to drive prices for most bottlings into the high teens. This wine stands as pleasantly conspicuous exception, and it performs as impressively in a glass as in the checkout line. Light and fresh, it shows lovely floral aromas and vivid fruit still lifted by a faint effervescence in early 2006. Remarkably stable, this was a great buy for those who bought by the case, and will hold its appeal well into spring and summer. 89 Michael Franz Feb 7, 2006

Ramón Bilbao / Mar de Frades, Val do Salnes (Rias Baixas, Galicia) Albariño 2008 ($25, W. J. Deutsch and Sons):  The days of inexpensive high quality Albariño certainly seem a thing of the past, but sticker shock aside, this wine has a lot going for it.  Its maritime-blue bottle and the label’s whimsical graphics representing the sea evoke the ocean breezes and coastal climate that influence the vines.  An invigorating slap of salinity and minerality hit the palate with the first sip, then characteristic Albariño elements reminiscent of flowers, melons and peaches kick in, and the classic crispness of Albariño shows up on the finish. 90 Marguerite Thomas Mar 9, 2010

Pazo Senorans, Val do Salnés, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2018 ($20):  This bodega has made one of the 5 best releases of Albariño in every vintage stretching back more than 20 years, which is a track record that very few producers can match in any of the world’s wine regions.  It excels on the strength of unusually concentrated fruit with impressive depth of flavor, along with a fresh, nimble character that stems from very fresh, thoroughly integrated acidity.  Zesty but satisfying at once, this is the Albariño to use for converting any friends who’ve yet to try this leading category of Spanish whites.  
92 Michael Franz Oct 8, 2019

Telmo Rodriguez, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello “Gaba di Xil” 2018 ($21, Vintus):  I was not prepared to be so impressed with this wine, but it caught my attention and I could not turn away.  It has a light golden color and aromas of ripe apples, the zest of oranges and limes, light floral and dusty mineral notes.  It is ripe and round and mouth-filling with lime, peach, apple flavors with anise notes that suggest a savory, pleasant contrasting bitterness.  The acidity sings through the rich flavors and the finish lingers.  It has the structure and stateliness of an important white variety of aristocratic origin without the attendant price tag.  Godello grapes in this wine come from the Valdeorras appellation in the far eastern part of Galicia, aka. Green Spain.  Telmo Rodriguez and Pablo Eguzkiza make this wine and many others from regions throughout Spain.  I once heard Rodriguez say that he is a “driving winemaker.”  Rather than a jet-setting flying winemaker, Rodriguez and partner Eguzkiza, also a winemaker, have been exploring Spain wine regions since the early 1990s finding and restoring old vines and varieties.  They now have 355 plots of vines a total of 80 hectares (197 acres) planted with 43 different varieties of native grapes.  That does not include Rodriguez’s family winery in Rioja Alavesa, Remelluri, that he and his sister, Amaia Rodríguez Hernandorena own and operate.     
94 Rebecca Murphy Sep 8, 2020

Bodegas Avancia, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello Cuvée de O 2018 ($20, Fine Estates from Spain):  Look no further if you wish to experience a shining example of vibrant, refreshing, ready-to-drink Godello.  For those new to northwestern Spain's Godello grape, it lives somewhere between Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Riesling in character.  Michael Franz first drew my attention to this beautiful variety in a tasting class years ago, and I wondered where it had been all my life.  This 100% Godello is rich and round, with lemon peel and blossom accents dancing around the bouquet.  The flavors display notes of grapefruit, fresh peach, lemon cream, honeysuckle with a slightly herbal edge.  It offers bright acidity and a lingering mineral finish driven by the region's slate hillsides.  At $20, this is an excellent value as it tastes like it costs a lot more.    
93 Miranda Franco Aug 11, 2020

Bodegas Avancia, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2016 ($30, Jorge Ordonez Selections):  Godello is a Spanish grape that deserves more recognition.  The Bodegas Avancia Godello is ample evidence of the variety’s potential.  Drawn from century-old vines on the steep, slate slopes above the River Sil in northwestern Spain, the wine will please your senses with luscious aromas and flavors.  Scents of lemon, lime, apple and peach are enhanced by floral and herb elements.  On the palate, the juicy citrus fruits and interwoven with subtle oak, herb and floral nuances.  The wine has a rich texture, reflecting the low yields and ancient vines of the region.  Serve it with your favorite roast chicken recipe or flavorful seafood dishes. 
93 Wayne Belding Oct 16, 2018

Bodegas Avancia, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2019 ($32, Jorge Ordoñez Selection):  If you have not yet sampled Godello, the Bodegas Avancia Godello will be a great introduction to this fine white wine grape.  Drawn from century-old vines on the steep, slate slopes above the River Sil in northwestern Spain, the wine will please your senses with luscious aromas and flavors.  Scents of lemon, lime, peach and tropical fruits are enhanced by floral and herb elements.  On the palate, the juicy citrus and tropical fruits are interwoven with subtle oak, herb and floral nuances.  The wine has a rich texture, reflecting the low yields and ancient vines of the region.  Serve it with your favorite roast chicken recipe or flavorful seafood dishes.         
93 Wayne Belding Dec 7, 2021

Bodegas Valdesil, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello “Montenovo” 2020 ($16, Polaner Selections):  Valdesil, a winery synonymous with top-notch Godello, makes a lovely array of wines from that under-appreciated grape.  This fresh and clean one is their “entry-level” wine.  And what an entry it is!  It’s a splendid introduction to Valdesil’s talents and the beauty of the wines made from this grape.  Refreshing and bracing, it displays enough stuffing to stand up to full-flavor food such as garlic bathed sautéed shrimp.  Yet, it’s neither heavy nor flamboyant, weighing in at a modest 13.5 percent stated-alcohol. Though it will be ideal this summer, it great now for those hearty seafood dishes this winter.  Another bargain!         
93 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2022

Rafael Palacios, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello “Louro” 2015 ($22): This may very well be the best white wine priced under $25 that I’ve tasted in 2016.  Godello is much less well known than Albariño, but those fortunate enough to have tasted many renditions over multiple vintages know that it is every bit as good -- if not better.  This shows expressive aromas and flavors, with light floral notes and gorgeous stone fruit character, all enlivened by intense mineral backnotes and very energetic acidity.  Good luck finding anything that comes close to this in combining flavor impact with freshness and structure…all in perfect proportions.
93 Michael Franz Nov 22, 2016

Rogo, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2014 ($19, Peninsula Wines): The Godello grape is grown most notably in the region of Valdeorras in northwestern Spain.  When well-made, it offers a combination of fruit and textural elements that make it a most satisfying drink.  The 2014 Rogo Valdeorras is a lovely example of Godello’s charms.  The bouquet is expressive and enticing with vivid orange, peach and melon fruit scents interwoven with elements of jasmine, anise and honey.  On the palate, it shows layered and pure flavors of peach, orange and ripe apple backed by floral and honey nuances plus a rich texture that enhances the long, minerally-clean finish.  The Rogo Godello is not only clean and bright enough to pair with seafood, but also sufficiently full-bodied to serve with chicken and pork recipes.
92 Wayne Belding Sep 29, 2015

Joaquín Rebolledo, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2011 ($15, Moolight Wine Company):  The Valdeorras DO, nestled in the northwest corner of Spain, has yet to gain the widespread recognition it deserves as a prime locale for the Godello grape and the wonderfully piercing wine that is made from it.  This one has a Riesling-like verve and a coupled with a delicate Chardonnay-like creaminess.  Its palate-cleansing acidity makes it an ideal choice for a wide variety of fare, from sautéed scallops in a creamy sauce to a robust piece of grilled wild salmon.  Godello from Valdeorras is a wine to embrace now before its popularity pushes the prices up and availability down. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 2, 2012

Tempestad, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2009 ($21, Grapes of Spain):  Some renditions of Galicia’s Godello grape end up seeming a little too ripe and chunky for their own good, but this is definitely one of them.  Beautifully balanced, it shows nice richness and deep flavors reminiscent of peaches and baked apples, but there’s plenty of fresh acidity that keeps the fruit focused and the finish fresh.  Delicious! 91 Michael Franz Nov 9, 2010

Tempestad, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2009 ($21, Grapes of Spain):  This is a very good rendition of Galicia’s little known but highly promising Godello grape.  It is fleshy in texture and quite nearly full-bodied, with fruit notes recalling baked apples and ripe peaches, along with balancing acidity and a subtle edge of oak that lends a bit of spice to the finish.  Pair with poultry or more substantial fish dishes like halibut or swordfish. 91 Michael Franz Jul 20, 2010

Avancia JO, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2012 ($26, Henry Wine Group): Stone minerality, dry peach skin, pineapple, and faint grass define the aroma profile of this Godello.  Upon opening, it displays a mild sweaty note, but don't be deterred -- it blows off nicely, delivering sweet peach and lemon on the palate, bringing a soft feel with nice acidity and weight.  The finish is on the herby side, with some nice oak tones showing. Complex, rich and satisfying.
90 Rich Cook Sep 9, 2014

O Casal, Valdeorras (Spain) Godello “Casal Novo” 2012 ($21, Classic Wines): Godello, a grape indigenous to Valdeorras, a tiny DO in northwestern Spain, has great potential because it has the capacity to make a wine that combines a creamy richness with bold acidity.  The trick is to balance the two, as O Casal has done with their 2012 Casal Novo.  Its edginess keeps you coming back to savor its mouth filling texture.  It will cut through the heartiest of seafood dishes.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 1, 2013

Rafael Palacios, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) “Louro do Bolo” 2008 ($19, Eric Solomon Selections):  The grapes--100% Godello--come from younger vines in a separate and distinct part of the vineyard from which Palacios produces his iconic As Sortes. Much more aromatic than his As Sortes (reviewed previously), Louro do Bolo has an engaging floral quality atop a hint of minerality and shows the range of wine made from the Godello grape.  Bracing acidity is a lovely counterpoint and makes it a good choice for broiled or grilled fish. 90 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010

Rafael Palacios, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) “Louro do Bolo” 2007 ($20, Polaner Selections): Made entirely from the very promising Godello grape, this delicious wine shows lovely medium-bodied fruit recalling peaches and ripe pears.  Very subtle oak notes are present in the aromas, but there's virtually no taste or feel of oak on the palate.  Rounded and relatively rich, the wine finishes with surprisingly energetic acidity that shows itself very late in the aftertaste.  Godello may soon rival Albariño as Spain's preeminent white wine variety, and Rafael Palacios is already probably its premier artisan, so taste this soon before prices take off. 90 Michael Franz Jan 27, 2009

Gaba do Xil, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2012 ($22, Vintus LLC): A very forward Godello that features macerated peach, cobbler spice, and mild stone on the nose.  It's quite full and slightly bittering on the palate in a pleasant way, with crisp acid and a long spicy finish.  Nicely done!
89 Rich Cook Sep 16, 2014

Avancia Cuvee de O, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2012 ($16, Henry Wine Group): This nicely priced Godello offers sweet, spicy, stone-fruit notes on the nose, with some white flower undertones.  On the palate, it's dry with racy acidity and a mineral driven flavor profile with soft peach and pear and some leafy notes added. It's long and leafy on the finish.  A great refreshing summer sipper.
88 Rich Cook Sep 9, 2014

Val de Sil, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello “Sobre Lias” 2008 ($17, Eric Solomon Selections):  Val de Sil is one of the best producers in Valdeorras, a small (3,300-acre) and up and coming appellation in Spain’s northwest.  The primary white grape here, the Godello, has enormous inherent acidity and hence the wines are fresh and lively with a penetrating citrus quality.  Six months of lees aging (sobre lias) adds depth and complexity to this wine’s melony fruit and mineral character.  It’s a good choice this summer for grilled fish. 88 Michael Apstein Jun 8, 2010

Coroa, Valdeorras (Galicia, Spain) Godello NV ($19, De Maison Selections): Peach, pear, apple pie and stone on the nose with a slight oxidative note adding interest on the nose.  Crisp and mineral driven on the palate, with a nice lemon and herb mix with some grilled peach coming forward in the long bright finish. Slightly bitter in the finish, but very pleasant overall.
87 Rich Cook Sep 16, 2014

Telmo Rodriguez, Valdeorras DO (Galicia, Spain) Godello “Gaba do Xil” 2019 ($24):  Back in the day when “flying winemakers” were all the rage in the wine world, Telmo Rodriguez called himself a driving winemaker.  He and a fellow enology student, Pablo Eguzkiza, traveled around Spain looking for old vineyards.  They created Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez to make wines from those vineyards like this exciting wine made from the white Godello grape.  According to Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, et al, the Godello grape “most likely originates from the banks of the Rio Sil in Galica.”  Gaba do Xil, which is 100 percent Godello is named for that river.  The wine has a light straw color and aromas of peach, pear, tropical fruit, and citrus with balsamic notes.  Round and luscious in the mouth with  ripe fruit, dried woody herbs and zesty acidity for balance and a mouthwatering finish.        
94 Rebecca Murphy May 3, 2022

Joaquín Rebolledo, Valdeorras DO (Galicia, Spain) Godello 2020 ($21, Copa Fina Wine Imports):  Godello is a Spanish grape that deserves more recognition.  The Joaquín Rebolledo Godello is evidence of the variety’s potential.  Drawn from vines grown on the banks of the River Sil in northwestern Spain, the wine will impress your senses with its appealing aromas and flavors.  Scents of lemon, lime, apple and pear are enhanced by floral and herb elements.  On the palate, the juicy citrus fruits are interwoven with pear, herb and floral nuances.  The wine has a rich and layered texture, giving it a full and satisfying mouthfeel.  Serve it with rich seafood dishes or simply roasted fowl.     
90 Wayne Belding Nov 22, 2022

Avancia, Valdeorras, Galicia (Spain) Godello Old Vines 2016 ($27, Fine Estates From Spain):  Wonderfully fleshy and flavorful, this elegant white wine from Spain is seductively aromatic, with floral elements as well as peach and citrus peel.  On the palate you’ll find notes of summer fruits and hints of citrus along with melon and a touch of slate minerality.  Refreshing acidity contributes to the generous finish.    
93 Marguerite Thomas Feb 12, 2019

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Jerez - Xeres - Sherry:

Red:

González Byass, Jerez-Xeres-Sherry (Spain) Vermouth La Copa NV ($25, González Byass USA): This is a superb Vermouth from one of Spain’s best-known sherry bodegas that dates back to the mid-1880s.  It is made according to the original 19th century recipe, incorporating macerating botanicals including wormwood, cloves, orange, cinnamon, nutmeg, angelica root, and cinchona bark (quinine).  In addition to the spices, the aromatic and flavor perceptions include caramel, dried figs and chocolate.  This pretty, red Vermouth has a satiny texture and it is, of course, sweet, but it finishes on a somewhat drier note.  Serve it as a lovely aperitif on the rocks with, perhaps, a twist of orange or lemon.  It is also a smooth and harmonious partner for Gin (I like a ratio of 1/3 Gin to 2/3 Vermouth, with a generous squeeze of lime and a splash of high quality tonic such as Fever Tree or Q Tonic).
93 Marguerite Thomas Jul 18, 2017

White:

Williams & Humbert, Jerez (Spain) "Don Guido" 20-Year-Old Pedro Ximenez Sherry NV ($50, Palm Bay International):  The Don Guido 20-Year-Old from Williams & Humbert is a monumental Pedro Ximenez, rich and viscous and remarkably complex.  This expression of Pedro Ximenez shows intense notes of coffee, ripe date, toffee and brown sugar.  Despite the sweetness, the balance is exquisite and the finish clean and refreshing.   A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Sommelier Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.  
98 Robert Whitley Oct 1, 2019

Gonzalez Byass, Jerez (Spain) Fino Sherry "Tio Pepe En Rama" NV ($21):  Tio Pepe En Rama was bottled straight from the barrel, unfiltered and unfined on April 6, 2021.  It is meant to be served chilled in a white wine glass to enjoy the fresh, tangy flavors of apple, lemon zest, hazel nuts.  Serve it with roasted almonds as an aperitif or enjoy it with fresh oysters or grilled tuna.  According to a Spanish to English dictionary, "en rama" translates as raw.  In the case of a Fino or Manzanilla Sherry, it means that the fortified wine that has spent as much as five years aging under a yeast layer called flor has had minimal filtration before bottling.  Traditionally, Sherries are fined, filtered, cold stabilized for bottling.  En Rama wines are fresh, less nutty, a bit like tasting the wine straight from the barrel.  They have a limited life span, so don’t hang onto this for too long.  En Rama Sherry is a relative new concept; indeed, the first En Rama Manzanilla was released in 1999, and Tio Pepe was the first En Rama Fino released by Gonzales Byass in 2009.     
93 Rebecca Murphy Sep 21, 2021

Gonzalez Byass, Jerez (Spain) Palomino Fino Tio Pepe Fino En Rama NV ($25, San Francisco Wine Exchange): If you’re already a convert to the joys of Fino you’ll surely embrace this one, but if you’re new to dry sherry Tio Pepe is an excellent place to begin research into one of the world’s most satisfying, if under-explored, wine drinking experiences. Tio Pepe is a classic mouthwateringly bright, dry aperitif wine that, by the way, is also excellent with certain foods. I had it recently with pork tortellini, a very rich dish that was deliciously offset by the fragrant and intense Fino. An iconoclastic pairing perhaps, but utterly delicious. Be sure to drink it chilled, and as with any white wine store any leftovers in the fridge and consume within a few days after opening.
92 Marguerite Thomas Sep 25, 2012

Valdespino, Jerez - Xeres - Sherry (Spain) Single Vineyard “Fino Inocente” NV ($20, Rare Wine Company):  The Palomino grapes for Inocente Fino is are grown in the Macharnudo vineyard, considered one of the world’s greatest.  Roasted almonds, caramel, baked apple, lemon zest  aromas and flavors are enhanced by the velvety mouthfeel of this luscious dry wine, the only Fino Sherry fermented in American oak.  Serve it chilled as an aperitif with a salty hard, cheese and Marcona almonds or at the table with lobster sauteed in brown butter.      
93 Rebecca Murphy May 2, 2023

Gonzalez Byass, Jerez - Xeres - Sherry (Spain) “Tio Pepe” Fino en Rama NV ($19, Gonzalez Byass USA):  There was a time in the 1970s and ‘80s that wine producers argued whether or not to fine and filter wines.  Traditionalists saw doing so as “ripping the guts out of wines” while modernists worried about optics, re-fermentation and bad biologics if they didn’t fine and/or filter.  Mostly, the modernists won out.  This marks the 14th release of Tio Pepe’s “En Rama” has reversed course – a Fino that was neither “filtered nor clarified” although visually it’s difficult to see the difference.  Like most Finos, the wine has a signature dry nuttiness – pecans are the best approximation I can think of.  It is still a little tight, full-bodied but with a crisp finish and a hint of bitters.  If memory serves be correctly – and it sometimes doesn’t – this En Rama is a little more assertive than previous releases.    
90 Roger Morris Sep 5, 2023

Bodegas Dios Baco, Jerez – Xeres – Sherry (Cádiz, Andalusia, Spain) VORS 20 Year Amontillado “Baco Imperial” NV ($80, CIV USA): A truly amazing wine, this is very expressive in all dimensions.  The aromas and flavors are heady, intense, and extremely persistent, with notes of caramel, smoke, roasted nuts, seawater, iodine, and more.  There is a richness and density on the palate that is unusual for an old Amontillado, yet the wine remains very bright and lively.  The finish is phenomenally long, lasting at least 30 seconds, and the various sensory impressions tail off evenly, which is a main hallmark of a truly great wine.  This is one of the two or three best Amontillados that I’ve ever tasted outside of Spain. 95 Michael Franz Jun 19, 2012

Williams & Humbert, Jerez – Xeres – Sherry (Cádiz, Andalusia, Spain) VORS 30 Year Amontillado “Solera Especial” NV ($70, Kindred Spirits): This wonderful wine shows an extraordinary degree of delicacy and finesse, with lovely aromas and flavors that are highly nuanced and impeccably balanced.  Obviously a very old wine, with an amazing array of oxidative aromas, it nevertheless remains incredibly fresh, and never seems tired, nor is it at all tiring to drink.  A host of smoky, toasty, nutty sensory signals are set off against a tangy, acidic foundation that enlivens the wine all the way through an extremely long finish.  Dry but not austere, this is an endlessly fascinating drink. 94 Michael Franz Jul 21, 2009

Dry Sack, Jerez Xeres Sherry (Spain) Oloroso Solera Especial NV ($28): This wine turns in a downright sensational aromatic performance, with innumerable little toasty, spicy, yeasty nuances that emerge from every whiff and which seem to change and develop as the wine warms in the glass.  Although the flavors are generously sweet, with a creamy feel and a vanillin character, there’s plenty of definition and grip in the finish to provide a clean final impression.  A terrific Oloroso.  Platinum Award winner at the 2015 San Diego International Wine Competition. 94 Michael Franz Jan 27, 2015

Dios Baco, Jerez Xeres Sherry (Spain) Cream Sherry NV ($25, CIV USA): Softly rich and luxuriously sweet, this wine manages to avoid the pitfall of seeming overly sugary, and indeed the sweetness is so well integrated into the wine’s spicy character that it never seems overt or pushy.  Rounded palate feel lives up to the “cream” category name, and the exceptional overall balance of the wine makes it very enduringly enjoyable--with or without after dinner nibbles.  Platinum Award winner at the 2015 San Diego International Wine Competition. 91 Michael Franz Jan 27, 2015

Dios Baco, Jerez Xeres Sherry (Spain) Elite Amontillado NV ($25): Sherry is an acquired taste for most Americans, though converts are easy when the quality is superb. The Elite Amontillado is a beautiful example of the Amontillado style, with rich, layered notes of butterscotch, hazelnut and spice and a clean, dry finish.
91 Robert Whitley Jul 29, 2014

Gonzalez Byass, Jerez-Xeres-Sherry (Spain) “Alfonso” Oloroso Seco NV ($20, Gonzalez Byass USA, Inc.):  After fermentation, classification and fortification, this wine is racked into a solera where it ages for eight years.  Alfonso is distinguished by a deep mahogany color, complex aromas of spice, caramel and just a hint of rancio.  The flavors are dry and richly textured with good acidity, orange peel and roasted nuts,  16.5% alcohol and good length and complexity.  Oloroso Secos go nicely with grilled meats and a charcouterie platter. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 6, 2011

Gonzalez Byass, Jerez-Xeres-Sherry (Spain) “Noe” Pedro Ximenez Muy Viejo NV ($45, Gonzalez Byass USA, Inc.):  To arrive at just the right concentration for this unctuous wine, already ripe Pedro Ximenez (PX) grapes are placed on straw mats to dry in the sun, increasing the sugar content.  Aging takes place in two soleras for a “muy viejo” total of 30 years.  The result is a complex sweet wine with a luminescent yellow/brown color, deep nose of caramel and raisins and rich concentrated flavors with hints of spice, roasted coffee and dried fruits.  The finish is dense and lengthy, with 15.5% alcohol and the texture is almost syrupy.  Have a glass of Noe as dessert or pour some over vanilla ice cream. 91 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 6, 2011

Gonzalez Byass, Jerez-Xeres-Sherry (Spain) Fino “Tio Pepe” NV ($18, Gonzalez Byass USA, Inc.):  Tio Pepe is made from 100% Palomino and aged under “flor” yeast in a solera consisting of American oak barrels for five years.  The color is a brilliant pale gold and the distinctive aromatics show traces of bread yeast and roasted nuts.  Tio Pepe is dry and crisp with an appealing straightforward flavor, hints of toasted almonds, 15% alcohol and good length.  The appeal of fino is the delicate dry flavors that marry nicely with most everything, especially Asian foods and salty snacks like nuts and olives.
90 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 6, 2011

Gonzalez Byass, Jerez-Xeres-Sherry (Spain) “Viña AB Amontillado Fino” NV ($20, Gonzalez Byass USA, Inc.):  Viña AB is a bone dry Amontillado with some of the characteristics of a Fino.  It starts out in a Fino solera, then, as the flor dies off, the wine is racked to the Vina AB solera, for a total solera-aging in American oak barrels of eight years.  Not as deeply hued as some Amontillados, Viña AB is a medium amber with bright gold tones.  The aromatics are delicate and nutty, while the flavors are dry, fruity with hints of butterscotch.  Viña AB is finished at 16.5% alcohol.  Try a copita of Vina AB with grilled seafood, or satay with peanut sauce. 89 Gerald D. Boyd Sep 6, 2011

La Guita, Sanlucar de Barameda (Jerez - Xeres - Sherry, Spain) Palomino Fina Manzanilla NV ($15, Vintus Wines):  The Palomino grapes for Manzanilla, the most delicate sherry, can come from anywhere within the delimited area, but must be aged in Sanlucar de Barrameda, because its proximity to the sea enables a thicker layer of flor, a film forming yeast that grows on the surface of the wine in the barrel protecting it from oxidation.  La Guita was aged under the flor for four and a half years.  It is a  wonderfully fresh and tangy dry wine, with aromas and flavors of green apple, yeasty bread, citrus zest and a light floral note.  Great for sipping or accompanying salty snacks of fried seafood.              
94 Rebecca Murphy May 2, 2023

Bodegas Dios Baco, Sherry (Andalucia, Spain) Oloroso “Baco Imperial” 30 Year-Old NV ($100, CIV USA):  Among the best wines I've tasted all year, this is phenomenally intricate and yet perfectly balanced.  The aromas, palate flavors and finish are all intensely expressive, but the wine is so finely integrated after 30 years of maturation that there’s a symphonic impression to it, and the “orchestra” was having an extremely good night on each of the three nights when I evaluated it.  Rich, concentrated and very deeply flavored, it is nevertheless dry and brilliantly infused with fresh acidity that keeps the wine from ever seeming heavy or ponderous.  Each sip delivers a welter of rich, intense flavors, with notes that tail off very slowly and in perfect symmetry, so that the ensemble of flavors is decreasingly intense but essentially identical for a full 30 seconds after the wine has been swallowed.  This characteristic of the finish marks this clearly as an extraordinary wine, and if my score is off at all, I’ve erred on the low side.  A riveting experience. 97 Michael Franz Jun 19, 2012

Bodegas Dios Baco, Sherry (Andalucia, Spain) Pedro Ximenez “Baco Imperial” 20 Year-Old NV ($80, CIV USA):

As with most 20 year-old Pedro Ximenez bottlings, this dessert sherry is massively concentrated and sweet, with glass-staining color and a decidedly syrupy character.  However, this particular rendition isn’t merely a sugar-bomb, as there are dark, toasty, spicy notes that fill in the lower register even as there’s a streak of acidity lifting the finish and providing a bit of treble.  The aromas and flavors are predominantly suggestive of fresh raisins, and the fresh impression is quite impressive given the age of the wine.

Bodegas Hidalgo, Sherry - Xérèz - Jerez (Sanlucar de Barrameda, Spain) Manzanilla "La Gitana" NV ($16, Hidalgo Imports):  Bodegas Hidalgo’s La Gitana is an iconic Manzanilla and at $16 for a 500ml bottle, it represents a phenomenal QPR (quality to price ratio).  A pale brass color on the pour, it reveals notes reminiscent of almonds, sea spray, lemon, and yellow apple in the glass.  This dry Sherry has a charming crispness to it, allowing it to be easy-drinking and complex all at once.  If you have ever wanted to try Sherry but didn’t know where to start — start here.  You won’t be disappointed.         
91 John McDermott Sep 5, 2023

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Jumilla:

Red:

Juan Gil, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) Monestrell “Silver Label” 2020 ($15, Gil Family Estates):  Monestrell, also known as Mataro and Mourvedre, is the major red variety in the Jumilla region of Spain.  In fact, according to Food and Wines of Spain, 52% of Monestrell grapes are grown in Murcia, a Province on the Mediterranean coast of southern Spain.  Jumilla, along with Yecla and Bullas are the D.O.s (Denominación de Origen) of the province.  The region has long, hot summer days, in which Monestrell thrives, producing the rich, deep black ruby color of this wine from Juan Gil (pronounced “heel”).  The nights are quite cool because of the over 1600 feet elevation, which maintains a lovely freshness in the wine.  It is rich with juicy ripe blackberry, black cherry flavors, round and smooth in the mouth.  Enjoy it with grilled or roasted beef, pork or lamb to counter the 15% alcohol.  It has a Vegan stamp on the label, so for those who follow this diet, a lentil salad or mushroom ragout will stand up to the wine.       
92 Rebecca Murphy Sep 12, 2023

Bodegas Juan Gil, Jumilla (Spain) Monastrell "Silver Label" 2015 ($15):  Ripe and rich and packed with fruit…and just a bit of funk…this is a very satisfying wine for a more-than-reasonable price of $15.  A notable whiff of wood lends a welcome counterpoint to the fruit notes, which are just shy of raisiny in profile.  Fruity rather than overtly sweet, this can work well with a wide range of foods, but grilled meats with a spicy rub would be my first choice.  A Double Gold Award winner at the 2019 Toast of the Coast International Wine Competition.  
91 Michael Franz Feb 26, 2019

Pedro Luis Martinez, Jumilla (Spain) Syrah "Alceno" 2004 ($23, Duran Imports): It wasn't all that long ago that many Spanish red wines tasted so predominantly of oak that one wondered if they actually had been made with gapes.  Today, that's all changed. Contemporary Spanish reds can be some of the most exciting on the market, in large measure because wood has in general taken a back seat to the flavor of both fruit and terroir.  Still, many Spanish vintners love their barrels, and it's not unusual to find even new-styled Spanish reds in which the taste of oak intrudes rather than complements the flavors of both grape and place.  So it is with this otherwise attractive Syrah.  There's plenty of ripe plum and berry flavor here, as well as secondary notes that echo pepper, leather, and dusty spice.  But from the initial bouquet through the finish, the presence of wood interferes with the pleasure. 85 Paul Lukacs Nov 20, 2007

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La Mancha:

Red:

Volteo, Castilla La Mancha (Spain) 2007 ($10, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  Soft, almost silky, showing only a slight influence of wood, and so tasting primarily of sun-drenched fruit, this is an easy to enjoy quaffing red.  Because the tannins prove so pliant, it should be equally at home if sipped on its own or enjoyed with food. 88 Paul Lukacs Mar 2, 2010

Pago de La Jaraba, La Jaraba DOP (La Mancha, Spain) 2019 ($29, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  The top wine from this estate is outstanding again in the 2019 vintage.  Although I scored it only a single point above the 2019 “Selección Especial” bottling, the wines are showing very differently, and accordingly should be considered differently by would-be buyers.  This top bottling clearly has superior juice in the bottle, as the fruit is both more concentrated and also brighter and more intense, with a much more prominent signature from the 100% new oak barriques in which it sent through malolactic and much of its aging.  Whereas the “Selección Especial” seems remarkably open in its many charms, this wine has much more headroom for improvement, though I hasten to add that it is already highly enjoyable.  To be more specific, it will become more integrated as it absorbs its oak influence, even though the proportions seem just right already, and will likewise become more complex as tertiary notes emerge from bottle aging, even though it is already showing more than a one-two punch of fruit and wood.  When this really hits its stride about five years from now, my score may actually look a point or two low in retrospect, which is admittedly an astonishing piece of speculation regarding a score of 94 points for a $29 wine.  Buy this, and then try hard to keep your mitts off of it — difficult though that will be.   
94 Michael Franz Mar 1, 2022

Viña Jaraba, La Jaraba DOP (La Mancha, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2019 ($20, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This wine is terrific in the 2019 vintage, and is styled for immediately enjoyment.  A blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot, it shows lots of savory details at this early stage, yet the wine doesn’t seem manipulated or “over-worked.”  On the contrary, the pure, primary fruit notes are very naturally interlaced with the savory accents, and the wood influence is minimal and very well integrated.  Moreover, the wine’s acidity and tannin are also so nicely interwoven that the wine is seamlessly delicious, yet still not simple, thanks to all those savory details.  At the risk of repeating myself:  Terrific wine, ready to rip, and an outstanding value.         
93 Michael Franz Mar 1, 2022

Viña Jaraba, La Jaraba DOP (La Mancha, Spain) Cosecha 2020 ($12, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This estate is producing some of the very best values of any producer in Spain, and should be up on the radar screen of every wine lover — regardless of whether they are making purchases more on the basis of cost or quality.  I usually see this entry-level red alongside a Crianza bottling costing just $14, one that isn’t necessarily better, but rather tuned to a different customer looking for less primary fruit than this wine shows, and maybe a food pairing that calls for a little more structure.  I note that only by way of background, as this wine is again completely charming in the 2020 vintage, showing very exuberant fruit notes recalling ultra-fresh red raspberries as well as both red and black cherries.  Although this is wonderful sipping wine, it would pair beautifully with many lightly spicy or grilled foods, or more substantial dishes like a pork chop or most preparations of salmon.           
89 Michael Franz Mar 1, 2022

Muchos Manos, La Mancha (Spain) Red Wine 2017 ($10, Wine Insiders):  I love running across a $10 wine to which I can assign a full-throated recommendation.  Complex ripe red and black fruit aromas are joined by soft oak spice, all of which translate well on the palate.  This finish is a bit oak forward at present, but it’s not obtrusive, and will round off with a little bottle aging.  Get a case and enjoy its evolution.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2019 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition.
93 Rich Cook Jan 22, 2019

El Vinculo, La Mancha (Spain) Gran Reserva “Paraje la Golosa” 2002 ($90, Classical Wines): La Mancha is becoming ever more widely-known for strong value in its red wines, but rarely does this giant D.O. come to anyone's lips when out-and-out excellence is considered.  Alejandro Fernández, famed owner of Pesquera in Ribera del Duero, set out to change that a decade ago, and a wine like this suggests that he knows what he's doing.  Made entirely from Tempranillo (or Cencibel, as it is known in La Mancha), this is very dark in color, with very impressive concentration that helps the wine carry lots of sexy oak without being overwhelmed by it.  Deep in flavor and structured with lots of tannin that is nevertheless so fine-grained that it never turns astringent, this shows lovely nuances of cocoa, spices and vanilla atop a formidable core of pure fruit. 92 Michael Franz Feb 3, 2009

Viña Jaraba, La Mancha (Spain) Reserva 2017 ($16, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  The growing season of 2017 was downright hot almost everywhere in Western Europe, so vintners who were successful were ones who knew how to deal with heat.  That’s surely true of the best producers in La Mancha, and La Jaraba is indisputably among a handful of producers at the very top of the quality pyramid in this very big region.  Rich and ripe with more structure and oak showing even than the younger 2020 “Selección Especial” from this house, this is a truly astonishing bargain for $16.  A blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot that was aged for 12 months in 70% American and 30% French oak barrels.  Some tasters will actually prefer this wine to the slightly more expensive “Selección Especial” from 2020, that though I do not lean that way, anybody who finds any of the wines from this house to buy would be insane not to try all of them.              
91 Michael Franz Dec 5, 2023

Osborne, La Mancha (Spain) "Solaz" 2003 ($10, WJ Deutsch ): A Tempranillo-based wine from Spain's La Mancha region south of Madrid, Osborne's Solaz is a relatively new project dedicated to high quality wines at $10 or less. The technology employed in the Solaz project is sophisticated and state-of-the-art and the resulting wines nothing short of superb. Beautifully structured and well balanced, this is one of the best red-wine values in the world today. 90 Robert Whitley Oct 11, 2005

Pago de Jaraba, La Mancha (Spain) 2014 ($29, Grapes of Spain):  This is a relatively high-end wine from La Mancha, which hasn’t traditionally been known as a prominent source for fine wines.  Examples such as this may change that, as this shows quite open, engaging flavors, tastefully subtle oak, soft but notable tannic structure, and very good overall proportionality and balance.  The blend is 70% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot.  This blend of Spanish and French varieties works very well, showing open flavors (mostly black in fruit tone, but with a thin red streak also), fine-grained tannin, a bit of spice, and a relatively soft finish that will enable this to work well for sipping purposes while also doing well with food. 
90 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2018

Bodegas Parra Jimenez, La Mancha (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Graciano 2010 ($11, Para Family Organic Imports):  Although Graciano has the reputation of making a tough and tannic wine, Parra Jimenez has tamed it nicely.  It’s a dense wine with an alluring combination of earth and explosive black fruit.  Both savory and succulent, it would be a good choice for a butterflied leg of lamb on the grill.  A great bargain. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2012

Bodegas Leganza, La Mancha (Spain) Finca los Trenzones “Condesa de Leganza” Reserva 1998 ($13, Palm Bay): A wine that is more than eight years old but still fresh and only now approaching optimal maturity, for thirteen bucks?  Hard to believe, but in this case, tasting is believing.  This wine shows ripe but pure fruit recalling red and black cherries along with a spicy edge from oak ageing.  It is medium-bodied, with enough tannic backbone to stand up to red meat dishes, but enough finesse to work well with chicken or grilled fish.  Interesting, versatile, and destined to improve for another few years, this is a steal. 87 Michael Franz Jan 9, 2007

Pago de la Jaraba, La Mancha DO (Spain) 2018 ($29, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  I wouldn’t blame you a bit if you thought I’d lost my mind for according 95 points for a $29 dollar wine.  In fact, that isn’t where I started, initially scoring this at 93 when lining it up against the other current releases from this house, but it was quite significantly better when I checked the bottle (which was left uncorked on my tasting bench) again the next day, and on the day after that it was better still.  Trust me — that is a rare occurrence.  Once its charms had fully unfolded, the wine displayed perfectly integrated oak that offered spicy, toast accents to a core of fruit that was pure and fresh but also alluringly savory notes.  The proportionality of the wine’s structural components is essentially perfect:  Acid, fruit, tannin and wood are all evident but so well swirled together by the time the wine is fully aerated that none of them stick out, even in the finish, which is impressively long and symmetrical.  Seriously impressive juice at a seriously attractive price.        
95 Michael Franz Apr 27, 2021

Viña Jaraba, La Mancha DO (Spain) Reserva 2016 ($16, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Of all the wines in the current set of releases from this excellent, high-value producer, this one shows the character of its growing season most clearly.  Elegant and complex and refined like so many 2016 wines (not only from Spain, but also Italy and France among others), this shows terrific class and complexity for a $16 wine.  It is no richer than the 2017 Crianza from this house, so don’t buy it for “punch.”  However, it shows an extremely high ratio of aroma and flavor to its weight, which is precisely the characteristic that makes for magic in wines from, say, Barbaresco or Burgundy.  The key difference here is that this costs less than 1/3 of what you would pay for a wine of comparable quality from either of those regions.  Enough said.  When I first opened the five current releases from Jaraba, this was actually my favorite, though the Pago de la Jaraba surpassed it when fully aerated.  I note this only to let you know that this is ready to enjoy now, and wow, is it ever enjoyable.     
93 Michael Franz Mar 9, 2021

Viña Jaraba, La Mancha DO (Spain) Selección Especial 2018 ($20, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Among the current releases from this exemplary producer, this stands with the top-of-the-line 2018 Pago de la Jaraba as wines made for the cellar rather than current consumption, though the remarkably reasonable price of $20 for this could lead you to believe otherwise.  It shows notably more weight than the 2016 Reserva and though the wood is still reserved, this is the more taut and uncoiled of the two.  It incorporates 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, like the 2016 Reserva, but they are more evident in this wine, whereas the silky, subtle 2016 Reserva could easily pass for a 100% Tempranillo wine.  Our back-of-the-house WRO software won’t allow me to give this a score of 92+ to account for the wine’s ability to develop positively from time in bottle, but that potential is evident, so add a plus yourself and keep an eye peeled for this great value when scrutinizing for retail availability.     
92 Michael Franz Mar 9, 2021

Bodegas Volver, La Mancha DO (Spain) Tempranillo 2018 ($16, Mundivino Winebow Imports):  Dark ruby color, black cherry, plum, tobacco, mocha aromas, mouth-filling black cherry, plum and dusty, cocoa powder flavors, lifted by clear cut acidity and followed by husky tannins.  Have it ready when you fire up the charcoal.  The grapes were grown in the Finca Los Juncare vineyard located at over 2000 feet elevation, where temperatures are cooler allowing grapes to take their time maturing and developing complex flavors.  The other advantage of altitude is the difference between day and night temperatures.  The warmer daytime temperature ripens the grapes and nighttime temperatures help preserve the grape’s acidity, providing a balanced structure for wine.    
91 Rebecca Murphy May 25, 2021

Viña Jaraba, La Mancha DO (Spain) Crianza 2017 ($14, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is among the most complex wines I’ve tasted in this below-$15 price range I have tasted for quite some time, and though I really admire the 2019 Cosecha release from this producer, you’d be well advised to pay $2 more for this.  (However, any particular retailer is likely to have only one or the other in inventory, so if you see either of them, just grab, pay and run, gratefully.)  This shows just enough oak influence to provide some spice notes and firm up the finish with a little grip, yet the wine is definitely not overtly oaky (as the legal term “Crianza” might make you fear, based on the style of many inexpensive Rioja wines).  The eight-month span in oak barrels actually seems to have had more influence due to oxygen interchange than outright wood flavoring, which suits me just fine.  Though there’s less annoying oak in this than comparably-priced Rioja, that’s partly because the wine has more body and fruit, thanks to a warmer climate and 10% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Excellent period, and amazing for the price.    
91 Michael Franz Mar 9, 2021

Viña Jaraba, La Mancha DO (Spain) Cosecha 2019 ($12, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Like most of the wines from this impressive estate, this is mostly comprised of Tempranillo (80%) with 10% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  Red berry fruit aromas and flavors are quite exuberant but not grapey or obvious at all, with no evidence of overt oak but some clear benefit from oxygen interchange gained from 4 months in oak barrels.  In terms of weight and food pairing suitability, this is comparable to relatively inexpensive Pinot from California or Toscana Rosso IGT wines, but much, much better than most of the wines in either of those categories at this asking price of $12.  It is much more savory and interesting than its California Pinot competitors, and seems much less manipulated than the Tuscan competition priced in the low teens.  Test this for yourself against almost anything in either category and you’ll see what I mean.        
89 Michael Franz Mar 9, 2021

El Vínculo, La Mancha DO (Spain) Crianza 2013 ($19, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  Made from Cencibel, a thicker-skinned type of Tempranillo, this Crianza comes from the Fernández family’s outpost in La Mancha.   It conveys a combination of hearty dark fruit flavors mixed with the spice characteristic of aging in American oak barrels, where it spent 18 months.   With a charmingly rustic boldness, it makes a good choice for the long simmering meals that comfort us in the winter. 
88 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2019

Portento, La Mancha DO (Spain) Petit Verdot 2018 ($15):  This label is an experiment that’s happening in La Mancha with amphora aging.  This Petit Verdot is quite correct on the nose, with firm structure and plenty of dark fruit character on the palate.  At 15 bucks full retail, it’s a nice example with an interesting back story.  Here’s to experimentation!      
88 Rich Cook Jul 20, 2021

Viña Jaraba, Vino de Pago DOP (La Mancha, Spain) "Pago de la Jaraba" 2020 ($30, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  In terms of its physical properties and its flavor profile, this flagship wine from Jaraba doesn’t seem all that different from the wonderful “Selección Especial” bottling from the same 2020 vintage (which is an outright steal at $20).  And yet, tasted and re-tasted over the course of two days, this shows more class or “fine-ness” in every respect — aromatic complexity, depth and breadth of flavor and texture, quality of tannins and integration of wood, and more.  But the really impressive thing about this by comparison to the other wines in this producer’s phenomenal portfolio is that there’s nothing pushy about it, and there’s a nothing-to-prove self-confidence in the styling of the wine that I find very impressive (regardless of the fact that the styling was evidently not intended to impress).  As a result, my considered opinion is that this is ready to enjoy already (with food and a bit of aeration, but those are more advisable than required) but also capable of years of positive development.  Among the best values in all of Spain (which is saying something), this is also one of the dozen-or-so best $30 wines from anywhere in the world.       
94 Michael Franz Dec 5, 2023

Viña Jaraba, Vino de Pago DOP Jaraba (La Mancha, Spain) “Selección Especial” 2020 ($20, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Silky and marvelously graceful for all the flavor and pleasure that it delivers, this is an obviously well-made wine sourced from skillfully grown fruit.  Nearly full-bodied but very soft in texture, this is what — for most consumers and especially restaurant guests — Merlot was supposed to be but never quite was, and what Malbec was for a while before it wore out its welcome with many tasters.  A blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot, this shows both red and black fruit tones, but leans more toward black fruit.  It is serious without being stern, as wonderfully fine tannins and reserved oak make this extremely inviting already, though it can stand up to formidable foods and become much more complex as tertiary notes build in over the next decade.            
92 Michael Franz Dec 5, 2023

White:

Volteo, Castilla La Mancha (Spain) 2008 ($10, W. J. Deutsch and Sons):  This affordable, light white sipper from Spain hits it just right.  It has a sweetly beguiling aroma notched with gentle hints of Viognier although the blend is actually dominated by Viura, the principal grape of northern Spain (and known elsewhere as Macabeo).  Fresh and lively, the wine is gentle on the palate and infinitely easy to imbibe.  The blend is 50% Viura, 35% Sauvignon Blanc, and 15% Viognier. 88 Marguerite Thomas Mar 9, 2010

Pago de La Jaraba, La Jaraba DOP (La Mancha, Spain) Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($24, Grapes of Spain - Aurelio Cabestrero): Under Spanish wine law, this is a Vino de Pago, the country’s most exalted designation, reserved for wines from distinctive and exceptional sites within broader appellations.  In this case, La Mancha is the broader region, and Sauvignon Blanc is a rather unlikely variety from a sun-soaked area.  Be that as it may, the wine is convincing every year, showing excellent Sauvignon character, displaying citrus and stone fruit more than tropical characters, and with a pleasantly herbal bouquet that shows the fruit was picked carefully with a view to freshness in the finished product.  Although the brightness of the fruit and its excellent acidity ring true to the variety, with no wood intruding at all, this still seems medium-bodied and substantial on the palate, like high-end California renditions that ring up for significantly more money.  The reds from this estate are all excellent at their price points, with only the top red bearing the “Pago” designation (the others are labeled as “Viña de la Jaraba”).  Amazing value at this address, which is one to remember.    
92 Michael Franz Feb 22, 2022

Pago de la Jaraba, La Mancha (Spain) Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($22, Grapes of Spain):  This is seriously delicious and impressive Sauvignon from a rather unlikely seeming locale, namely, La Mancha…which is famously warm and sunny.  I loved the 2017 edition of this wine, and this one may be even better, so this is no fluke.  It is also a little less unlikely on further reflection, as the wine is supremely refreshing, and what could be a more important virtue than that during summer in La Mancha?  It is just barely medium-bodied, which makes it very versatile for sipping or partnering with foods at the table, with lots of zesty acidity but also enough substance to work with lots of different dishes.  The fruit profile is poised right on the balance point between melon and citrus notes on the Sauvignon spectrum, perhaps tilting just a few degrees in the citrus direction.  The substantial flavors and zesty acidity both hold their own in beautiful balance through the finish, which is a sure sign of very wise picking decisions and really solid work in the cellar.   
91 Michael Franz Jul 7, 2020

Pago de La Jaraba, La Mancha (Spain) Sauvignon 2017 ($22, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  So, let’s be entirely candid about this:  If you were to offer me a Sauvignon Blanc from a warm, sunny climate, and I were not dying of thirst, I would decline your offer.  Unless, that is, the wine comes to me as a press sample from Aurelio Cabestrero, the supremely knowledgeable mind behind Grapes of Spain, an importing company to keep up on your wine radar at all times.  Well, this wine turns out to be an undeniable success, however surprising that may be to me.  It is medium-bodied and shows the weight and breadth one would expect from La Mancha, but not the ripe, melon-y fruit profile nor the alcoholic thump that I had expected.  Rather, there’s a clear an herbal and citrus signature to go with a hint of melon character on both the nose and palate, and the wine stays light on its feet through the finish.  I handed a glass (without any background info) to my food-savvy wife, who declared, “I like it…and I’d really like it with risotto with lots of Parmigiano-Reggiano and fresh spring peas and a little lemon zest.”  I include this suggestion without editorial comment, aside from the one caveat that I’m not willing to wait until spring before enjoying this wine again.
90 Michael Franz Nov 6, 2018

El Vínculo, La Mancha DO (Spain) Airen "Alejairén" 2015 ($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  The Fernández family, headed by patriarch Alejandro who is best known for his Tinto Pesquera, a wine that was instrumental in the formation of the Ribera del Duero DO, has expanded to the La Mancha area.   Made entirely from Airén and the only white wine in the Fernández portfolio, Alejairén is bold, expressing ripe stone fruit-like flavors.   Despite its power, the wine is not heavy.   It’s reminiscent of a Rhône Valley white, but with bright acidity that keeps it fresh and lively.   It works well with roast pork. 
90 Michael Apstein Feb 19, 2019

Manuel Manzaneque Suarez, La Mancha DO (Spain) Airen-Macabeo-Sauvignon Blanc "Fatum" 2016 ($12, Grapes of Spain):  Many of Fatum’s grapes come from 35-year-old vines.  One of those grapes, Airen, is largely unknown outside Spain but it is, in fact, a commonly grown white wine grape according to the website Botany One.  With a pleasant fruit character seasoned by touch of salinity this light, tasty wine is definitely worth seeking out.  The blend is 50% Airen, 35% Macabeo and 15% Sauvignon Blanc.  
90 Marguerite Thomas May 14, 2019

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Mallorca:

Red:

Ca’n Verdura, Binissalem DO (Mallorca, Spain) “Negre” 2020 ($21, De Maison Selections):  Located on Mallorca’s central plateau, Binissalem is a named Denominacio D’Origen (DO) that produces excellent wines.  Red wines make up about 75% of Binissalem production.  This one (blended from 60% Mantonegro, 18% Merlot, 11% Cabernet, 6% Monastrell, and 5% Callet) has an earthy potting soil and mushroom nose and a tinned cranberry and red cherry body.  It is light and refreshing, especially for a red.  The terroir shows wonderfully and I could enjoy this with a light appetizer or served slightly chilled on a hot summer day.     
92 Vince Simmon Jan 3, 2023

4 Kilos, Mallorca (Balearic Islands, Spain) Callet 2020 ($60, T. Edward Wines):  A “kilo” is old Spanish slang for one million Pesetas, Spain’s former currency.  4 Kilos founders Francesc Grimalt and Sergio Cabellero’s investment of 4 million Pesetas birthed this renowned winery.  Their 2020 Callet, a grape grown exclusively in Mallorca, is balanced and delicate at 12 percent alcohol.  It is highly aromatic, with rose petals, spices, and orange peel notes.  The palate has a beautiful interplay of vivid red fruit and Mediterranean herbs with a smooth, velvety mouthfeel.  The tannins are long and fine; acidity is buoyant and carries through a persistent and fresh finish. This is reminiscent of a supple young red Burgundy.        
95 Miranda Franco Sep 19, 2023

White:

Anima Negra, Vi de la Terra Mallorca (Spain) The Son Bennassar Vineyard “Quibia” 2020 ($20, Winebow):  This wine makes me yearn for a beach, a Bob Marley song, and some ceviche.  This is a highly unique wine hailing from a volcanic heritage site  --  a white blend of indigenous varieties 60% Callet (a red variety), 30% Premsal, and 10% Giró Ros grapes.  Citrus peel, jasmine, and saline-driven aromas lead to concentrated flavors of ripe peach, Anjou pear, and salted green apple, which provide great freshness.  While wine has been produced in Mallorca since the beginning of the Roman Empire, few people would have considered seeking out Mallorcan wines until several decades ago, but as high-end tourism has developed, high-quality winemaking has followed as evidenced by the Quibia.  Also, for a fun history note, Pliny the Elder, in his Natural History, stated that the island's wines were equal to the best wines in Italy.       
90 Miranda Franco Apr 26, 2022

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Murcia:

Red:

Carchelo, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) “C” 2009 ($16, Classical Wines):  This blend of 40% Monastrell, 40% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon shows the sort of concentrated, deeply flavored fruit that we have come to expect from Jumilla (as well as its neighboring appellations of Yecla and Bullas).  However, it also shows some restraint in terms of ripeness and oak, as well as some minerality and complexity in the finish, which makes it a standout--especially for $16. 90 Michael Franz Feb 8, 2011

Casa de la Ermita, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) Petit Verdot 2004 ($28, Opici Wine Company): This producer has chosen a Bordeaux variety rather than the indigenous Monastrell for its flagship wine, and though I'm not enthusiastic about that in principle, I found it impossible not to be enthusiastic about the wine in practice.  Made entirely from Petite Verdot, this shows lots of pigment and power, with concentrated fruit recalling black plums.  There's plenty of oak influence as well, with a smoky, spicy character, and yet the wood simply supports the fruit without obscuring it.  The tannins are abundant but fine in grain, and the overall impression is one of exemplary integration and balance--as well as class. 90 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Castillo de Jumilla/Bodegas Bleda, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) “Divus” 2005 ($25, Calvert Woodley; South River): The top wine from this producer, this makes quite a statement with gorgeous, deeply pigmented color and very expressive aromas and flavors.  The grapes are 95% Monastrell and 5% Merlot, and they are picked last in each growing season from the Bodega's oldest vines.  Aged for 9 months in new French oak barrels of differing toast levels, the wine still shows plenty of vivid fruit, with notes of blackberry, black plum and dried red cherry holding their own against the wood. 90 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Alceño/Pedro Luis Martinez, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) Crianza “Seleccion” 2004 ($16, Elite Wines Imports): Composed of 50% Monastrell, 40% Syrah and 10% Tempranillo, this is an impressively complex wine.  The flavors are complex, with a combination of notes including fresh primary fruit, subtly toasty oak, and light spices.  The texture is likewise quite interesting, as it is soft and round on entry, but shows balanced but gutsy tannins in the finish.  Very well made from impressive material. 89 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Alceño/Pedro Luis Martinez, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) Syrah 2005 ($25, Elite Wines Imports): This wine is made from a blend of 85% Syrah and 15% Monastrell that exactly reverses the proportions of Alceño's varietal Monastrell.  It is a bigger, more muscular wine, with deep, fleshy flavors of blueberries and blackberries backed by toasty oak.  The concentrated fruit easily counterbalances any astringency from the oak, and the wine finishes with nice sweet fruit notes and well balanced tannins. 89 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Bodegas Luzon, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) 2006 ($9, Jorge Ordoñez Selections):

This superb value is presumably made mostly from Monastrell, which is the predominant grape in the appellations around Murcia, namely, Jumilla, Yecla and Bullas.  Whatever the grape or grapes involved, the finished wine shows very tasty fruit recalling ripe black cherries, along with just a little smoky oak and an interesting, faintly bitter anise backnote that serves as a nice foil to the hint of ripe sweetness in the fruit.  Medium bodied, this is a little more restrained than most of the region's wines, and an amazingly strong value.

Casa de la Ermita, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) Crianza 2004 ($14, Opici Wine Company): A blend of 50% Monastrell, 20% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petite Verdot, this shows very dark color and excellent concentration, yet no notes indicating any over-ripeness.  Impressively complex, it shows both red and black fruit notes, with subtle accents of herbs, spices and roasted meat.  Light notes of oak contribute a hint of toast and a bit of extra grip to the finish. 88 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Finca Omblancas/Denuño, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) Monastrell 2005 ($17, MHW, Ltd.; Unique Selections): This wine was aged in oak and bottle for long enough to merit designation as a Crianza, but that does not appear on the label.  Concentrated and deeply flavored, it shows impressive dark fruit notes with an appealing meatiness that often marks well-made Monastrell from Murcia.  Oak lends a little spice, and fine-grained tannins offer welcome structure without any astringency or dryness. 88 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Alceño/Pedro Luis Martinez, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) Monastrell 2005 ($12, Elite Wines Imports): Although this is designated with only Monastrell on the label, there's a full 15% or Syrah in the blend.  Dark and deeply flavored, it features delicious ripe, pleasantly sweet fruit reminiscent of black plums and bing cherries, with an appealingly meaty character. 87 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Castillo de Jumilla/Bodegas Bleda, Jumilla (Murcia, Spain) Crianza 2004 ($12, Calvert Woodley; South River): Made from 90% Monastrell and 10% Tempranillo, this is a surprisingly complex wine for the money.  It shows some toasty, spicy notes from oak ageing, with a solid core of dark cherry fruit. 84 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

La Purisma, Yecla (Murcia, Spain) Monastrell “Trapio” 2004 ($30, Marquis Selections): This is the flagship wine of the Cooperativa del Vino de Yecla, which was the largest winery in the world as late as 1972, then kicking out 60 million liters of wine each year.  By contrast, only 1,000 cases of this wine are made each year.  The fruit is drawn entirely from a select group of vineyards with old, un-grafted Monastrell vines, and the resulting wine shows an impressive combination of concentration and elegance.  It is very ripe and quite powerful at 14.5% alcohol, yet the fruit shows exemplary purity.  Blackberry and black cherry notes are joined by wonderful accents of cocoa, coffee, spices and smoke. 92 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Casa de las Especias, Yecla (Murcia, Spain) Crianza 2004 ($30, Grape Expectations): Made from Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, this is a completely convincing wine that is imbued with classy character.  Toasty and spicy, but very subtly so thanks to the use of high quality oak, this is exceptionally well integrated, with the dark cherry and blackberry fruit notes shining through the wood's influence.  Integrated and elegant, this is a clear winner. 91 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Valle de Salinas, Yecla (Murcia, Spain) Crianza 2004 ($16, Weygant-Metzler): Crafted from 40% each of Monastrell and Cabernet Sauvignon, along with 20% Syrah, this features pure fruit notes recalling both red and black cherries.  It is soft and succulent on the palate despite extended oak ageing, and the fruit retains impressive freshness even in the presence of some complexities that are now emerging from bottle ageing. 90 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Castillo del Baròn, Yecla (Murcia, Spain) Monastrell 2007 ($12, Europvin):  This wine shows impressive concentration for its price, and yet the concentration was not purchased at the price of over-extraction, resulting in astringency or roughness.  The fruit recalls ripe black cherries, and although there’s enough tannin to firm and focus the wine, it remains supple and smooth through the finish. 89 Michael Franz Jan 12, 2010

Casa de las Especias, Yecla (Murcia, Spain) Joven 2006 ($14, Grape Expectations): Rounded and soft in feel, but with no stewey, over-ripe notes, this shows superb purity and freshness.  The dark cherry fruit notes are supported by plenty of fine-grained tannin and just the right edge of fresh, natural acidity. 87 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

Valle de Salinas, Yecla (Murcia, Spain) Roble 2005 ($12, Weygant-Metzler): This wine is more about guts and flavor impact than subtlety and sophistication, and yet it shows some nice meaty, spicy accents on a foundation of rich black cherry fruit.  A blend of 60% Monastrell and 20% each of Syrah and Tempranillo, it is worth every penny of the asking price and more. 86 Michael Franz Oct 30, 2007

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Navarra:

Red:

Bodegas Caudalia, Baja Montaña, Navarra (Spain) Syrah La Celada Single Vineyard “Xi’ipal” 2015 ($36, Grapes of Spain):  I’ve traveled to Navarra sporadically for more than 20 years, and confess to being somewhat surprised that the region hasn’t managed to make a bigger dent in the American market.  Starting after my first visit in 1997, I guessed that the widespread usage of French vine varieties would help Navarra gain traction in the USA, but events have proved me wrong.  Be that as it may, my qualitative evaluations are definitely better than my commercial predictions (which is why it is a good thing I’m a reviewer rather than an importer!), and there’s no doubt that is a superb wine being offered at a price well below its value in relation to fine Syrah from anywhere – including the northern Rhône.  Very deeply pigmented and quite dark in color, it shows expressive aromatic notes of violets and black raspberries, followed by delicious, rich fruit with just the right touch of spicy oak and lots of supple, fine-grained tannins.  Gutsy but still classy, this is terrific Syrah.  
93 Michael Franz Oct 8, 2019

Príncipe de Viana, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo Reserva 2011 ($17, Classical Wines From Spain): Navarra, a wine region in northern Spain, is best known for its Garnacha-based rosado.  With its proximity to Rioja (indeed, a part of Rioja DOCa lies within the geographic area of Navarra) it is not surprising that Tempranillo, the major grape of its neighbor, does well too.  Despite its five years of age, this rich wine remains tight and needs additional bottle age.  It’s closed, but balanced, at this stage, and just needs time to open as opposed to being hard or astringent and needing time to soften.  Lively acidity balances its plum-like fruitiness and muscular stature, keeping it fresh.  If you opt to drink it this winter, open a few hours before the meal and decant it to let it breathe.  Alternatively, find a place for this bargain-priced beauty in your cellar.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2017

Castillo de Monjardin, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo 2010 ($9, Winebow Brands International):  This wine could be more complex, but it could hardly be more delicious, as the relatively simple fruit is perfectly ripened and balanced.  (For the record, I very rarely use the words “perfect” or “perfectly.”)  Medium-bodied, with supple fruit recalling dark cherries, the wine is broad and deep in texture and flavor but still fresh and focused, with notable acidity and soft tannins that frame the fruit without encumbering it. 91 Michael Franz Mar 6, 2012

Castillo de Monjardin, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo 2010 ($10, Winebow):  This is a phenomenal bargain for $10, and indeed it would still be a very good deal if priced at $15.  With expressive fruit recalling both red and black cherries and just a little whiff of oak around the edges, it offers lots of flavor without any excessive ripeness or weight.  Tasteful, and tasty, this is a standout. 90 Michael Franz Feb 7, 2012

Castillo de Monjardin, Navarra (Spain) Garnacha La Cantera 2011 ($11, Winebow): This is a bargain for red wine lovers.  Made from 100% Garnacha drawn from 75-year-old vines in the La Cantera Vineyard in Navarra, Castillo de Monjardin has crafted a delicious and affordable wine.  The bouquet shows luscious strawberry and red cherry fruit with hints of dried flowers, vanilla and cinnamon.  On the palate, it is marked by pure strawberry fruit underlain by a creamy texture and followed by intriguing black pepper and baking spice tones.  The vineyard’s relatively high elevation, spare soils and low-yielding vines give this Navarra red a pure and balanced style that is sure to please.
90 Wayne Belding Nov 11, 2014

Gran Feudo, Navarra (Spain) Reserva 2001 ($15, Kobrand): Here is another great bargain from the family of Julián Chivite, a well-respected Spanish winemaker. The family owns this property in Navarra and another in Rioja. The Gran Feudo Reserva, a blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and merlot, has exquisite balance. In this full-bodied wine, the Cabernet adds structure without dominating the flavors. Aging in a combination of French and American oak barrels also seems to add the best of both worlds with a seductive creaminess and engaging spice. It's a remarkable $15 wine. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 12, 2006

Pago de Larrainzar, Navarra (Spain) Reserva Especial 2009 ($28): The international blend of Merlot (50%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) dwarfs the contribution of Tempranillo (15%) and Garnacha.  With ripe flavors, a bit of sweet oak and a velvety texture, it’s a showy wine.  Uplifting acidity keeps it lively and fresh, making it a good choice at a steakhouse.
90 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2017

Red Guitar, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo-Garnacha "Old Vine" 2008 ($13, International Cellars):  Red Guitar is one of a handful of quality proprietary wines from Spain that fill the need for an inexpensive wine for casual enjoyment.  Blended from Spain’s two flagship red grapes -- Tempranillo and Garnacha (Grenache) -- Red Guitar has everything going for it with a deep richly hued color, forward ripe berry aromas, bright fruit flavors, crisp acidity, moderate 13.9% alcohol and good length.  Air this wine a little then enjoy with summer grilled meats.
89 Gerald D. Boyd Jul 20, 2010

Bodegas Ochoa, Navarra (Spain) Reserva 2009 ($22, Frontier Imports): Big and powerful, this blend of Tempranillo (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Merlot has a glossy texture.  Even at seven years of age, a hint of seductive, almost sweet, oakiness remains.  Its ripeness is felt in the finish as a touch of heat.  Brilliant acidity keeps it fresh and prevents it from being heavy or tiring.  It has the flamboyance of a New World wine with an Old World structure. It’s a lot of wine for the price.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2017

Bodegas Príncipe de Viana, Navarra (Spain) Garnacha Roble 2012 ($16, Classical Wines from Spain): My mantra is producer, producer, producer.  But when I am unfamiliar with a producer, I look at the importer, especially those who specialize in a country or region, because some importers’ portfolio are more consistent than others.  Classical Wines from Spain is one of those importers.  They rarely miss.  This simple Garnacha from Príncipe de Viana is an excellent example.  It’s a well-balanced cheery combination of fruity and spicy elements with hardly noticeable tannins -- just enough so it’s not soft and flabby.  It’s what I refer to as a “pizza wine,” but with unusual depth for a wine in that category.  It would also go well with rotisserie chicken.
88 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2014

Gran Feudo, Navarra (Spain) Crianza 2002 ($11, Kobrand): This is the Spanish equivalent of what I refer to in Italy as 'pizza wine.' It's a well-constructed blend of mostly Tempranillo-for black fruit flavors-some Garnacha-for bright spice-and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon for structure. The grapes work well together, which makes this wine a good choice for take-out rotisserie chicken. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 10, 2006

Julian Chivite, Navarra (Spain) ”Gran Feudo” Crianza 2002 ($11, Kobrand): Always a dependable wine, this inviting Spanish blend (70% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) has traditional fruity aromas and flavors, and a slight toastiness bestowed by oak barrels.  Never aggressive, you can count on it to provide plenty of drinking pleasure. 88 Marguerite Thomas Jan 30, 2007

Montjardin, Navarra (Spain) Tinto 2010 ($10):  A juicy, lively red, this wine tastes fresh and bright.  It should pair well with everything from burgers to pizza, and represents real value.  It’s hard to imagine a $10 California red being anywhere near as much fun to drink. 88 Paul Lukacs Jan 24, 2012

Red Guitar, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo–Garnacha 2008 ($12, International Cellars):  As the saying goes, there’s no accounting for taste, but in my opinion the un-serious label of this wine undersells it, as the product looks like it belongs in the “Critter Wine” section of a shop, whereas the juice inside is actually top-shelf stuff.  In any case, since I’m not an art critic and not trained in marketing, I’ll stick to the juice, which is medium-bodied with an impressive balance between softness and tannic grip.  The fruit shows both red and black cherry notes, along with a suggestion of red plum.  Some subtle savory notes show around the edges, along with a little whiff of spice.  Sweet but not overt in ripeness, this blew away five more expensive contenders when paired with a spicy preparation of pork shoulder. 88 Michael Franz Oct 5, 2010

Castillo de Monjardin, Navarra (Spain) Merlot 2005 ($25): Made from 100% Merlot grapes, the wine has aromas of mocha, dark fruit, smoke and toasty oak. It has similar flavors, with blackberry notes, good structure and moderate tannins. 87 Tina Caputo Jan 19, 2010

Notime, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo 2008 ($11, Grapes of Spain):  Fresh and juicy, this wine showcases the delicious flavors of Tempranillo without a lot of earthy or oaky notes.  That means that it is a bit short on complexity by comparison to bottlings that many consumers might know from Rioja, but that shortcoming as nicely compensated for by the purity and freshness of the fruit and the attractively low price. 87 Michael Franz Jan 5, 2010

Red Guitar, Navarra (Spain) Tempranillo Garnacha 'Old Vine' 2007 ($12): I can usually find Red Guitar for around $10, and it's one of the great steals in the red market today. But even at the full-bore, nationally suggested retail price you've done well. Produced in the Navarre region of northeastern Spain, this is a blend of the ubiquitous tempranillo grape (Spain's most important red grape variety) and garnacha, also known as grenache, which has been widely planted in Navarre. This vintage is plump and juicy, showing lovely red and black fruit aromas, a smooth, supple texture and a lip-smacking finish. The perfect summer barbecue red! 84 Robert Whitley Jul 14, 2009

El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa, Navarra DO (Spain) Garnacha "Old Vines" 2018 ($14, Nekeas):  This Navarra bottling is a vibrant Grenache, one that pulses with lively cherry and strawberry fruit and spice.  There's bold structure to be sure, but it serves to keep pushing the fruit through a long finish.  This is built for the table and would be perfect with a roast chicken or turkey with all the fixins.  Lip smackingly delicious – and what a price!  A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition.    
94 Rich Cook Jun 30, 2020

Bodegas Caudalía, Navarra DO (Spain) Syrah “PAAL 01” 2015 ($23, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Ripe and succulent and creamy in texture, with gorgeous blackberry and black cherry fruit, this is a sexpot of a wine that never quite tips over into being obvious or grapey.  Even though derived from a relatively hot year, there’s enough acidity in this to lend freshness, and there’s also enough fine-grained tannin to provide focus and grip.  The oak is nicely reserved, allowing the fruit to shine, but there are some nice savory undertones showing that keep this from seeming simple and fruity.  This gets most of its (entirely deserved) points from the sub-category of sheer deliciousness.    
91 Michael Franz Jul 14, 2020

Guelbenzu, Vino de la Tierra Ribera del Queiles (Navarra) "EVO" 2006 ($32, Classical Wines):  Complex and yet seamlessly integrated, this Cabernet-based blend (with additions of Merlot and Tempranillo) shows lovely notes of dark berries and black cherries along with subtle backnotes of smoke, spices, espresso beans and mocha.  The oak is admirably restrained, and the tannins are fine-grained and sweet.  Delicious now, this will continue to improve for at least another five years. 92 Michael Franz Feb 15, 2011

Rosé:

Bodegas Julian Chivite, Navarra (Spain) “Gran Feudo” 2007 ($12, Kobrand): One of the first non-French rosés I tasted and immediately liked was the Chivite Gran Feudo, made from Garnacha (Grenache).  That was years ago, but this 2007 Gran Fuedo has the same bright berry flavors, excellent balancing acidity and a long dry finish with no oak.  After a 24-hour maceration, the free run juice is run off by gravity, using the method known as saignee.  This classy wine is made in the Tavel style. 90 Gerald D. Boyd Jun 17, 2008

Hacienda De Arinzano, Pago de Arinzano DOP (Navarra, Spain) Tempranillo Rosé 2014 ($20, Stoli Group USA): There is so much aromatic interest in this wine that your nose might fool you into expecting something sweet, what with all the ripe cherry and strawberry fruit presented.  However, the palate is perfectly dry, with racy acidity and a long integrated finish that brings notes of grapefruit and pepper into play alongside the bold fruit.  Another winner from Arinzano!
92 Rich Cook May 17, 2016

Itxas Harri, Vino de la Tierra Tres Riberas IGP (Navarra, Spain) Garnacha Rosé “Roxa” 2021 ($9, De Maison Selections):  Itxas Harri is a joint effort in which Ignacio Ameztoi and Iñaki Guelbenzu seek to expand winemaking boundaries in the Basque portion of Navarra.  This Rosé highlights meticulously farmed Garnacha from the region.  The nose is a bit restrained but offers wild strawberry, rose petal, and bruised apples.  Conversely, the body’s bright acidity makes the palate tingle and brings all of the fruit notes to life.  With a 11.5% abv and a twist-top cap, Itxas Harri provides an enjoyable experience perfect for all-day Rosé enjoyment.      
90 Vince Simmon Aug 16, 2022

White:

Arinzano, Pago de Arinzano DOP (Navarra, Spain) Chardonnay "Gran Vino" 2010 ($79, Stoli Group USA): A boffo score on a Chardonnay from Spain?  Do they grow Chardonnay in Spain?  Yes, they do, and it's likely you'll be hearing more about it if this is the kind of wine that is possible there.  The Arinzano property is divided by the Ega River near Navarra, and the fruit for this expressive wine comes from the highest elevation on the site at about 1500 feet.  It's amazingly complex and age-worthy, and most recently was awarded the SOMM's CHOICE award at the 2016 Chardonnay Symposium in a blind competition of 5 top flight wines.  It has great depth of aroma and flavor, showcasing lemon creme, stony mineral and bread dough, with concentration and palate weight, racy acidity and an incredibly long finish.  Slide this into a tasting of top white Burgundy and California examples -- you and your fellow tasters will be wowed.
96 Rich Cook May 24, 2016

Hacienda De Arinzano, Pago de Arinzano DOP (Navarra, Spain) Chardonnay 2014 ($20, Stoli Group USA): I tasted this wine at an aroma seminar at the 2016 Chardonnay Symposium, and it comes from an area not exactly known for the variety.  Found between Rioja and Navarra, Arinzano is the first Pago in northern Spain, a Pago being a designation similar to a Cru in France, one that takes a ten year application process to achieve.  It's a single clone offering, and it's a delicious surprise.  Lemon, pineapple, stony minerality and honey aromas translate well on the palate, with soft oak notes and a long, zesty finish.  This is serious quality for the price.
90 Rich Cook May 24, 2016

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Pays Basque:

Rosé:

Ameztoi, Getariaki Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) Rosado “Rubentis” 2021 ($24, De Maison Selections):  This fun and fizzy dry Rosé wine is from the Basque Country of northwestern Spain.  It is a blend of two indigenous varieties, Hondarrabi Zuri, a white grape, and Hondarrabi Beltza, a red grape.  Light pink in color with strawberry, pink grapefruit, and Meyer lemon, with saline mineral notes and zippy acidity, it is a natural for grilled shellfish.  The fifth generation of the Ameztoi family is in charge of 123.5 acres of vines grown on pergolas, which allows air flow to prevent rot from a humid, maritime climate.         
90 Rebecca Murphy Sep 13, 2022

Basa Lore, Getariako Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) Txakoli Rosé 2020 ($18, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage Co):  Rosé wines have picked up in popularity thanks to producers improving quality and decreasing residual sugar.  This Txakolina (pronounced CHA-ko-LEEN-ah) is the ideal bottle for spring or summer.  That’s thanks to low alcohol (10%), bright tart fruit, zippy acidity, and a little effervescence.  If that doesn’t convince you, the Basque serving technique will:  Pour this wine into the glass from as great a distance as one can reach to rapidly introduce oxygen, making for a great party trick and a lot of fun.     
90 Vince Simmon Apr 18, 2023

Ameztoi, Getariako Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) "Rubentis" 2011 ($19, De Maison Selections):  Txakolina (“cha ko LEE nah”), also known as Txakoli, is just the most charming and amusing wine from the Basque country of northwestern Spain, near San Sebastian.  It’s a low alcohol, high acid, usually white, slightly sparkling wine that is traditionally poured into a tumbler from a height of three or four feet so the bubbles break into a celebratory froth.  This one is a rosé from the Ameztoi family’s vineyards perched above the fishing village of Getaria at the Bay of Biscay.  It has a lovely, light salmon pink color with bright red cherry and citrus fruit enlivened with zesty acidity, great for a Labor Day picnic. 
89 Rebecca Murphy Aug 28, 2012

Antxiola, Getariako Txakolina DO (Pays Basque, Spain) Rosado 2018 ($18, Polaner Selections):  Located in the Basque country of northern Spain about 18 miles from the French border, Antxiolo (ahn-cho-la) was founded in 1989.  This dry, flavorful and food-friendly rosé was made from Hondjrrabi Beltza, a dark skinned grape variety grown only in this Basque region.  The vines (between 20 and 40 years old) have been planted on the sunny side of the mountains to avoid fungal diseases.  All work in the vineyard is done by hand.  The wine was macerated on the skins for 24 hours and the alcoholic fermentation took place with indigenous yeast in stainless steel.  Un-aged and bottled while still young, a small amount of CO2 left in the bottle sometimes gives the wine slight effervesce.  Antxiola is a tasty and refreshing aperitif and as well as a good companion to food, including sausages, sandwiches and seafood.          
93 Marguerite Thomas Aug 31, 2021

Ameztoi, Getariako Txakolina DO (Pays Basque, Spain) “Rubentis” 2019 ($24, De Maison Selections):  Getaria is a small fishing town perched above the Bay of Biscay in Basque Spain, a few miles west of the culinary mecca of San Sebastian.  Fresh seafood from the Bay is plentiful, evidenced by the plethora of cafes and restaurants cooking the catch of the day on their outdoor grills.  It’s clearly the place to savor the local food with the local wine, Txakolina (chauk ah LEEN ah).  A couple of miles away the Ameztoi winery sits atop rolling hills with a spectacular view of the Bay.  The vines are growing on pergola, which allows plenty of airflow through the vineyards to deter mildew.   The Rubentis rosé is an innovative blend of 50% Hondarribi Beltza, the local red grape thought to be a relative of Cabernet Franc and 50% Hondarribi Zuri the local white grape.  They are fermented together at with indigenous yeasts and bottled a bit early to capture the remaining carbon dioxide, to provide a bit of sparkle to the finished wine.  It is an imminently drinkable wine with lightly fizzy, bright strawberry, red cherry, rhubarb fruit, zesty acidity and 11 percent alcohol.  It goes down easy by the pool and it’s a great partner for grilled salmon.   
90 Rebecca Murphy Aug 18, 2020

Astobiza, Txakolí de Alava DO (Pays Basque, Spain) Rosé 2018 ($20, Bon Vivant Imports):  Delicate and enticing aromas of white flowers, raspberry, and wild strawberry open this crisp Basque Country rosé.  It is made up of two local grapes called Ondarrabi Beltza and Ondarrabi Zuri.  Dry, effervescent, with sea-breeze salinity, it is incredibly refreshing.  This is the perfect wine to savor the final days of summer.    
92 Miranda Franco Sep 8, 2020

Sparkling:

Ameztoi, Getariako Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) Extra Brut Rosé “Hijo de Rubentis” 2021 ($24, De Maison Selections):  Txakolina (pronounced chock-oh-LEE-nah) always promises a good time.  These fizzy, refreshing, low-alcohol wines are perfect for sipping on sunny afternoons.  Ameztoi, one of the top producers of the style, closes the tanks to preserve the natural (not forced) carbonation during fermentation, keeping the wine’s delicate spritz.  Produced from Atlantic-influenced Hondarrabi Beltza and Hondarrabi Zuri, this salty Extra Brut Rosé shows flavors of grapefruit, tart red berries, and sea spray.  Break out your porron and be immediately transported to Basque Country.       
90 Miranda Franco May 31, 2022

White:

Doniene Gorrondona, Bizkaiko Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) 2021 ($23, De Maison Selections):  Doniene Gorrondona is the leading producer in the Bizkaiko Txakolina appellation.  It was created in 1996 in the village of Bakio, continuing a long family tradition of Txakoli production.  Their 2021 Gorrondona is mainly Hondarrabi Zuri but with small percentages of other grapes.  The palate is light, fresh, and well balanced, with aromas and flavors of tart green apple, white peach, salted lemon, and wet slate that are more pronounced because of the wine's racy acidity.  This is a classic Txakoli with good persistence and length.            
91 Miranda Franco Aug 2, 2022

Uriondo, Bizkaiko Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) 2020 ($21, De Maison Selections):  This mouthwatering 2020 Txakolina was produced with native varieties Hondarrabi Zuri, Munemahatsa, and Txori Mahatsa.  The resulting wine is racy, fresh, and mineral.  This is gorgeously toned with fresh green apple, candied lemon, and pear notes.  There is no effervescence, but it features remarkable acidity and refreshing notes of salinity.  This beauty will be an ideal partner for seafood over the next year.          
91 Miranda Franco Aug 2, 2022

Doniene Gorrondona, Bizkaiko Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) 2019 ($22, De Maison Selections):  This is a refreshing white wine from vineyards overlooking the Bay of Biscay on the Atlantic Coast of northern Spain.  Doniene Gorrondona is a top estate for Txakoli wines.  It is a pioneering winery as well, instrumental in the revival of Txakoli production in the past few decades.  Txakoli is famous for its formidable level of acidity.  By legend, one taster compared it to drinking “a glass of pins”.  Modern versions are perhaps a bit more mellow, but high acidity is part and parcel of the wine.  The Doniene Gorrondona Txakoli is a delicious and refreshing wine.  It has an enticing bouquet of lemon zest, pear and delicate flowers.  Clean, pure and lively on the palate, the ripe citrus and pear fruits are all the more evident because of its razor’s edge of acidity.  It’s a perfect wine to pair with fresh seafood dishes.    
90 Wayne Belding Oct 6, 2020

Itsas Mendi, Bizkaiko Txakolina DO (Basque Country, Spain) "7" 2020 ($35, SAWM Imports):  Txakolina makes wonderfully bright white wines with zippy acidity and character.  Itsas Mendi’s “7” is made with additional structure on the body which provides a weightiness that contrasts with the classically abrasive acidity.  Wax, white blossom, pineapple, and green apple notes all intermix making a fun summer wine to pair with your charcuterie board on a hot day.  While Itsas Mendi claims this wine can be cellared, it’s really drinking wonderfully now.         
90 Vince Simmon Aug 1, 2023

Ameztoi, Getariako Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) Hondarribi Zuri 2021 ($22, De Maison Selections):  Made from 100 percent Hondarribi Zuri, this Txakolina from Ameztoi offers enticing aromas of green apple, citrus, and briny sea air.  Crisp and vibrant on the palate with residual CO2 from vinification livening things up, this dry bottling leans into fresh and tart flavors of lime, green pear, grapefruit, sea spray, and underlying notes of tarragon.  This finishes with mouth-watering acidity and is eminently quaffable.          
91 Miranda Franco Aug 2, 2022

Txakoli Malda, Getariako Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) 2019 ($20):  Fresh renditions of well-made Txakoli (say, “chah-kuh-lee”) is undoubtedly among the handful of most refreshing wines in the world—if not the single most refreshing, even surpassing Portugal’s Vinho Verde.  Both are picked early to retain acidity and keep alcohol down, and are also bottled early with some residual carbon dioxide from the natural fermentation process, adding just a bit of spritz that provides even more “lift” and refreshment value.  This is a particularly successful example of the breed, with wonderful aromas and flavors recalling squeezed lime juice and tart green apple.  If you love acidic wines, this is the ticket, and if you love unadorned, freshly shucked oysters, this is the ticket to heaven.  
91 Michael Franz Jul 7, 2020

Txomin Etxaniz, Getariako Txakolina (Guipuzcoa, Pays Basque, Spain) 2013 ($22, Henry Wine Group): You're on your own for the pronunciation of this sensational aperitif made from the Hondarrabi Zuri grape variety in Basque country in the northernmost wine region in Spain.  Bone dry and lightly fizzy with scouring acidity, it comes across as a softly flavored yet bracing limeade.  A beautifully cleansing and refreshing wine, it's something very unique in the beverage world.  It makes its debut every year with great ceremony on January 17th for the Feast of San Antonio.  It's also traditionally poured from high overhead into a glass held at belt level or lower.  You may want to practice outside first…
91 Rich Cook Sep 9, 2014

José Antonio Mokoroa, Getariako Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) 2013 ($14, Polaner Selections): The Txakoli (“Chok-o-lee”) from Spain are the perfect antidote for summer’s heat and humidity.  With a refreshing and lively fizz, this low (11.5% stated alcohol) wine from Mokoroa is just what you want when the temperature climbs.  The hint of effervescence, initially surprising if one is unfamiliar with these wines, adds an unexpected charm.  Perfect for salads or other light fare, you’ll find yourself drinking this wine regularly during the summer.  You can afford to buy it by the case.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2014

Xirimiri, Getariako Txakolina (Pays Basque, Spain) White Wine 2020 ($20, Siema):  Xirimiri is a winery in northern Spain dedicated to producing the Basque region's famous Txakoli.  Made from the native Hondarrabi Zuri grape and a touch of Chardonnay, this classic, fizzy Txakoli is a little richer and more textured than usual, thanks to ten months of lees aging.  It bursts with lime zest, succulent lemon, white grapefruit, apple, and saline notes.  A streak of refreshing acidity runs straight through the medium-weight frame, providing freshness and a long, bright finish.  This is an excellent alternative to the more well-known Vinho Verde.        
90 Miranda Franco Jul 12, 2022

Ameztoi, Getariako Txakolina DO (Pays Basque, Spain) White Wine 2022 ($25, De Maison Selections):  As the vibe turns to colored leaves, chilly temps and shorter days, you can still grab a little taste of summer in a glass with this delightfully freshening white wine.  A little spritz, a little apple, a little pear and a lot of stony minerality carry the day here, with a cleansing finish that leaves a bright impression of the elements.  Whether or not sun is out, pour a glass, take a sip, close your eyes and take a trip to the Basque country -- I promise you’ll feel warmer!      
92 Rich Cook Nov 14, 2023

Txakoli Malda, Getariako Txakolina DO (Pays Basque, Spain) Hondarribi Zuri 2022 ($20, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  The Basque region’s Txakoli wines are consistently the hidden gems that everyone should know about.  Hondarribi Zuri grapes are harvested early in the season which ensures bright acidity and lower alcohol percentages.  This version only clocks in at 11.5 percent alcohol but drinks dry and has an abundance of food-friendly acidity.   Despite its earlier harvest, the wine showcases excellent fruit ripeness with citrus, stone fruit, and tropical fruit notes.  A light minerality supports the complexity and experience.  Like many Spanish wineries, Txakoli Zudugarai is a family-run business with three generations involved in the harvest and winemaking.  If you want to pour this wine like a local, pour the wine with a little distance to the glass.  The rapid exposure of air while the wine runs from the bottle (or porrón if you’re really getting fancy) helps open the wine up before the first sip. 
91 Vince Simmon Jan 30, 2024

Txakoli Malda, Getariako Txakolina DO (Pays Basque, Spain) 2020 ($20, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Wines in this style from Spain’s beautiful, highly distinctive, food-rich Basque Country have never quite gotten traction commercially in the USA (which is also true of the best examples somewhat similarly styled Vinho Verde wines of Portugal).  To consumers in a nation that introduces wine mostly by way of California, these can seem weirdly thin, tart, under-ripe, and fizzy, and most novices don’t need four different reasons to say “no, thank you, I’d prefer something else.”  However, as taste preferences are by nature subjective, it is every bit as valid to characterize a wine like this as light, zesty, fresh, and playfully effervescent, which is a much different spin, and one that will sound quite appealing to young wine consumers.  So, don’t count out a wine like this, as you could be just as wrong as those who argued that rosé wines could never overcome the horror of white Zinfandel and achieve popularity in the USA.  This bottling hits just the right balance point on multiple dimensions, being light but not insubstantial, tart but not sour, zesty and fresh but not raw, and bubbly enough to make it clear that the bubbles are intentional but not so fizzy that a table wine glass seems inappropriate for relaxed enjoyment.  The palate impressions recall Granny Smith apples and lime zest, along with undertones of sea spray and dried herbs.  You’ll find descriptors akin to these on the back label, but that doesn’t mean I plagiarized anything — just that whoever wrote the copy for the back label did a good job.  One last thing:  This is not quite the fluffy, forgettable wine it might seem to some at first blush; it held up beautifully under a cork in my refrigerator for 48 hours, and when re-opened, it was almost exactly as fizzy as when first opened, despite the fact that only 1/3 of the wine remained in the bottle, due to how good it tasted on the first night.  At 11% stated alcohol, this offers a not-so-guilty pleasure, so sharpen your oyster knife and buy a bushel of fresh oysters to keep your guilt quota running even.        
91 Michael Franz Aug 24, 2021

Ulacia, Getariako Txakolina DO (Pays Basque, Spain) 2016 ($20, Europvin USA):  Resolve to taste wines you have yet to experience like this cheerful, lightly sparking white made from the famous grape varieties from the Basque Country of north western Spain, Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarribi Beltza.  Don’t worry, you won’t have to pronounce the grape, just ask for Txakolina (“chock ah LEAN ah”).  It comes from the area near the fishing village of Getaria, perched on steep cliffs above the Bay of Biscay.  While the nearby city of San Sebastian is second only to Kyoto as the city with the most Michelin stars per square meter, Getaria may have the most restaurants grilling the freshest seafood on their outdoor grills.  And, of course, the best wine for this fresh bounty is Txakolina.  This one comes from the Ulacia family’s 19-acre estate, which has been in the family since the early 1940s.  It is a light, fizzy, lemony with mineral notes, crisp wine perfect for fresh grilled seafood.  In warmer weather it is perfect for sipping by the pool.  The locals recommend pouring the wine from high above the glass to release the bubbles and flavors.  Good luck with that.   
90 Rebecca Murphy Jan 7, 2020

Bodegas Rezabal, Getariako Txakolina DO (Pays Basque, Spain) Hondarribi Zuri 2022 ($20, Ripe Wine Imports):  This is a zesty and refreshing white from vineyards on the Atlantic Coast of northern Spain.  Txakoli is famous for its formidable level of acidity but it is the bracing tartness that makes the wine so appetizing.  Modern versions are perhaps a bit more mellow than previous vintages, but high acidity is part and parcel of the wine.   The Bodegas Rezabal Txakoli is a delicious and refreshing white.   It has a lively bouquet of lemon, pear and flowers.  Clean, pure and lively on the palate, the ripe citrus and pear fruits are all the more evident because of its razor’s edge of acidity.  It is a perfect aperitif or companion for lighter seafood dishes.         
89 Wayne Belding Feb 13, 2024

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Penedes:

Red:

Torres, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) “Reserva Real” 2010 ($225, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): Rumor has it that, “It is good to be the King,” and I don’t doubt that’s true, but maybe better still to be vintner for the King.  I’m told that this was first made in 1995 to commemorate HM Juan Carlos’ visit to mark the 125th anniversary of the Torres house.  Sourced from rare Silurian slate soils on a small estate, it is the best wine I’ve ever tasted from Torres -- and I first visited here 19 years ago.  Blended from classic Bordeaux components of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it displays impressively dark color and deep pigment concentration, and the flavors follow suit, with dark-toned fruit character edged by ultra high-class oak and very fine tannins.  Fruit, oak and tannin and acidity are perfectly proportioned, and I don’t throw around the word “perfectly” easily or often.  Open and delicious now, even without accompanying food, this is still deceptively young, and its fresh acidity will enable it to develop additional complexities for another decade.  Made in very small quantities (2,277 bottles, to be precise), this will be difficult to afford and perhaps even more difficult to find, but it is an object lesson in the greatness that can be achieved by this famous house.  The King was there for a day, but the wine is still there… so again, good to be vintner for the King.
98 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Torres, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon “Mas La Plana” 2012 ($90, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): The 2012 edition of “Mas La Plana” Cabernet shows an effortless character in all important dimensions… aroma, attack, mid-palate and finish.  In sensory terms, this translates into a balance of power and grace, with excellent integration of wood with fruit, and fine balance between the sweet ripeness of the fruit and the structural grip of the tannin.  Already very enjoyable with food, this has a full decade of positive development ahead of it.  Once among the world’s most famous Cabernets, this fell into eclipse for a while, but now is clearly back in top form.
94 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Jean Leon, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon “Vinya La Scala” 2011 ($50, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): Anybody who can string together four syllables can claim they make a Bordeaux style red, but here’s a Spanish Cabernet that could fool a pretty good taster on a fairly good day.  There’s a lot of oak up top, but it is of good quality and not overdone.  The flavors are really more savory than fruity, with cocoa and woodspice running ahead of blackberry notes that are restrained almost to the point of austerity.  This lack of sweetness (or overt ripeness) is what establishes the likeness with Bordeaux.  Nicely styled but built for food.
91 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Parés Baltà, Penedès (Spain) Garnatxa “Hisenda Miret” 2019 ($55, USA Wine Imports):  The 2019 Hisenda Miret Garnatxa (Garnacha is also known as Garnatxa in Catalan) from Penedès is ethereally perfumed with aromas of violets, raspberries, and graphite.  The palate is concentrated and has excellent depth with flavors of sour cherries, red plums, fennel, sweet red peppercorns, and vanilla.  Next, the acidity hits – the alcohol is high, but this is so lively and fresh, it works.  It will continue to blossom with several more years in the bottle.        
91 Miranda Franco Feb 1, 2022

Rosé:

1 + 1 = 3, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2007 ($16, Grapes of Spain): Cabernet Sauvignon does not seem like a particularly promising source grape for producing light, refreshing rosé, and yet that is exactly what was produced in this case.  Indeed, I seriously doubt that anyone could identify Cabernet as the grape behind this wine, as it offers fresh red cherry and blackberry flavors under girded by crisp acidity. 88 Michael Franz Jun 17, 2008

Sparkling:

Codorníu, Cava (Penedes, Spain) Gran Reserva Brut “Jaume” 2012 ($60): It should come as no surprise that Codorníu, still a leader in Cava production and the company essentially responsible for creating the category, should produce a show-stopping wine.  In this Gran Reserva, one of their top bottlings, they use an unusual blend -- at least for Cava -- of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Xarel-lo.  The result is a creamy and mineral-y combination with a suave refined texture.  Graceful enough to enjoy by itself, it has enough power and persistence to accompany full-flavored main courses, such as a pork roast.
95 Michael Apstein May 2, 2017

Raventós i Blanc, Cava (Penedès, Spain) "Rosé de Nit" 2019 ($26):  The Raventós family is one of the oldest producers in the Penedés region.  The family estate dates back to 1497, and they've continually made wines there.  In 1872, Josep Raventós made the first traditional method Cava.  The modern winery began in 1986 and is run by twenty-first-generation winemaker Pepe Raventós.  His Rosé "De Nit" is made from the classic white Cava grapes -- Xarel.lo, Macabeo, Parellada with a tiny bit of red Monastrell for color and complexity.  This intriguing Rosé is sharp on the palate with hints of red fruit, cinnamon, rose petals, and an ever so slight creaminess.  The decadent flowing texture brings waves of citrus salt-flavored bubbles.  An appealing mix of depth, complexity, and mineral-etched precision.        
92 Miranda Franco Dec 27, 2022

Cava Llopart Leopardi, Cava (Penedès, Spain) Brut Gran Reserva 2006 ($25, Fine Estates from Spain): Cava Llopart has been in business since the 14th century. Bottle aged for a minimum of five years (with no oak aging) this wine is creamier and more complex than most Cavas, but it still offers the requisite charm and refreshing finish. This is a serious sparkling wine, to be enjoyed with light foods as well as on its own
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 16, 2013

Poema, Cava (Penedès, Spain) "Pura" Brut NV ($15, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Blended from basically equal parts of the traditional grapes used for Cava, Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada, this sparkler is friendly in character.  Its mid-weight — 11.5 percent alcohol — character and its fruity profile makes it a lovely wine to use as an aperitif on hot and humid summer evenings.  Refreshing and clean, it is made entirely from organic grapes.  A spine of acidity keeps it fresh.          
90 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2022

Segura Viudas, Cava (Penedes, Spain) Brut “Gran Cuvée Reserva” NV ($14, Freixenet USA): An excellent Cava based mostly on Macabeo and Parellada but with 15% comprised of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this shows an excellent balance between fruit and subtle accents of roasted nuts and freshly mown hay.  Fine mousse lends it a delicate profile on the palate, but the fruit is quite generous before being freshened by a brightly acidic finish.
90 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Segura Viudas, Cava (Penedes, Spain) Brut Reserva “Heredad” NV ($25, Freixenet USA): There’s nothing subtle about the gothic packaging for this wine, which would be fittingly advertised by Errol Flynn -- if only it were possible to swing from a chandelier but still have two hands free for a sword and a flute.  Higher in both acidity and dosage than Segura Viudas’ other releases, this is a more dramatic wine (in keeping with the packaging), yet it is not pushy thanks to its excellent balance of components.  The finish is impressively persistent and very clean in character.
90 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Paul Cheneau, Cava (Penedès, Spain) “Lady of Spain” Brut NV ($16, Taub Family Selections):  I am glad to have tasted this Cava blind before seeing the bottle because the brightly colored package is way over-the-top.  So, lesson learned: don't be put off by the splashy, colorful label.  The Cheneau company has been making Cava since 1976 with the assistance of the Giro Ribot family.  This special cuvée is a blend of  45% Macabeo, 40% Xarel-lo and 15% Parellada from Penedés.  Slightly green in color the wine offers persistent effervescence and gentle, tiny bubbles.  It comes across the palate with melon and citrus flavors that are delicate.  A hint of mango fruit adds a little intrigue to the pleasing, dry finish.      
89 Norm Roby Nov 14, 2023

Segura Viudas, Cava (Penedes, Spain) Brut Reserva NV ($9, Freixenet USA): Widely available and admirably consistent, this is always among the better examples of Cava sold in the USA -- and a remarkable value.  The blend is 60% Macabeo, 25% Parellada and 15% Xarel-lo.  Fine mousse is a sign of class, and subtle flavors with just a hint of earthiness likewise mark this as a standout product.
89 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Conde de Subirats, Cava (Penedes, Spain) NV ($12, Grapes of Spain):  This is cava with character.  It’s got floral and fruity notes, and a little bit of biscuit in the background.  Although it has a slight hint of sweetness, this bubbly manages to remain wonderfully refreshing.  And talk about a bargain! 88 Marguerite Thomas Feb 8, 2011

Segura Viudas, Cava (Penedes, Spain) Brut Rosado NV ($9, Freixenet USA): This is an unusual blend of 90% Trepat (an indigenous variety, largely unused until recent years) and 10% Garnacha.  Trepat doesn’t give sufficiently deep color to work well for red table wines, which is why it fell into disuse, though that’s not an issue for rosé, and this house has revived it as part of a more general campaign to champion local indigenous varieties.  It is quite robust in the vineyard, resisting drought quite well, but is admittedly rather rustic in character (though presumably that would be more apparent if it were fully rather than briefly macerated).  Pale salmon color is quite appealing, and the wine shows nice freshness thanks to energetic acidity and effervescence.  The flavors are not overly fruity, which is a welcome departure from the usual character of inexpensive rosé sparklers.  Well done.
88 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Mont Marcal, Cava Brut Reserva (Spain) “Extremarium” NV ($25, Classical Wines):  Full disclosure requires that I acknowledge that I’m not a big fan of Cava, and that I have spent my own money to buy it exactly once during the past twenty years (for a Spanish-themed wedding party that happened to be my own).  With that said, however, my credibility in praising this wine should be pretty damned solid.  This is a stop-you-in-your-tracks Cava, and that’s exactly what it did to me.  Whereas most cava is rather rustic, with a wet straw character that is less endearing on the third sniff-and-sip than it is on the first, this wine is clean and fresh and engaging in both aroma and flavor.  And in texture too:  Even prestige-level cavas can be notably coarse in effervescence by comparison to fine Champagnes, but this wine has a marvelously creamy feel.  That really enhances the soft, generous aromas and flavors of the wine, which show a gorgeous lemon chiffon character as well as a baked apple backnote.  It is absolutely gorgeous from stem to stern, and can soften even the hardest core cava skeptic.  I should know, right? 92 Michael Franz Jun 19, 2012

Vilarnau, Cava DO (Penedes, Spain) “Barcelona” Reserva Brut, Trencadís Edition NV ($15, Gonzalez Byass):   Don’t let the atypical packaging — an abstract art mosaic covering the entire bottle — put you off.  Nor that a company best known for their Sherry is making Cava.  A blend of two traditional grapes used for Cava, Macabeo and Parelleda, along with an atypical one, Chardonnay, Vilarnau provides a creaminess offset by a hint of bitterness.  It is a delightfully crisp combination, perfect as a stand-alone aperitif and equally suitable for a robust seafood stew.          
88 Michael Apstein Jan 11, 2022

Roger Goulart, Cava Gran Reserva (Penedès, Spain) Brut 2012 ($20, Arano LLC):  The Cava category, Spain’s unique sparkling wine, has several levels.  One level below the pinnacle is Gran Reserva, a wine that must see at least 30 months of aging on the lees.  Goulart doubles that and then adds another 12 months for good measure.  A blend of Chardonnay (38%), Xarel-lo (25%), Macabeo (20%) and Parellada, it displays uncommon gracefulness plus alluring minerality.  This very sophisticated wine is complete and balanced, with a fabulous spine of acidity that keeps it fresh.  A great bargain!      
94 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2022

Vilarnau, Cava Reserva (Penedes, Spain) “Delicat" Brut Rosé NV ($16, Gonzales Byass USA):  Made primarily from Garnacha (a.k.a. Grenache) with a bit of Pinot Noir, this is a lovely, delicate sparkler with a light rose pink color and tiny bubbles.  Aromas of strawberry, raspberry, with a subtle dusty mineral note are fresh and inviting.  The wine is dry with ripe, juicy strawberry, raspberry and melon flavors perfectly balanced with citrusy acidity.  Traditional second fermentation in the bottle and over fifteen months on the second fermentation yeast lees contributes complexity.  Enjoy it as an aperitif, for a celebratory toast or with buttery popcorn, roast chicken and sweet potato fries.  The festive bottle design is inspired by the works Antoni Gaudi, perhaps most known for the famous La Sagrada Família Basilica in Barcelona.  The Vilarnau is the name of the family that first arrived in 1100s in Penedes in the independent region of Catalonia in northwestern Spain.  The first Cava labeled with the family’s name was produced in 1949.  Vilanau became a part of the family-owned, Jerez de la Frontera-based Gonzales Byass company in 1982.   
90 Rebecca Murphy Dec 29, 2020

Vilarnau, Cava Reserva (Penedes, Spain) Brut NV ($15, Gonzales Byass USA):  Priced to be your house bubbly, this sparkling wine from Spain offers prolific bubbles and lemon, grapefruit, lemon verbena aromas with hints of a fine Dijon mustard.  The citrus flavors are fresh and light with a bit of roundness and a touch of dusty mineral notes.  Crisp acidity adds to the liveliness making your mouth water for a bite of Manchego or a handful of high quality potato chips.  It consists of the original classic grape varieties Xarel-lo or Xarello (sha REL low), Macabeo (maca BAY oh), and Parellada (parah YAH da).  By tradition and the Cava rules, the wine is made in the classic method where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle.  Note that it is a Reserva, which means it has at least 15 months of bottle age before release.  That regulation changed to 18 months in 2020.  The art on this bottle is an invitation to celebrate, even if the celebration party is small, outside and socially distanced.  The Vilanau family made their first Cava in 1949.  In 1982, the Vilanau winery became a part of the family-owned, Jerez de la Frontera-based Gonzales Byass company.     
89 Rebecca Murphy Dec 29, 2020

Faustino, Cava Reserva (Penedès, Spain) Brut NV ($19, Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits):  Cava, as most people know, is a D.O. (Spanish equivalent of an appellation) located in the northeast part of the country that produces sparkling wines using the same secondary in-bottle fermentation used in Champagne.  Cava Reserva means that the wine has been aged on the lees for a minimum of 18 months (compared to 9 months for non-reserva), which means they take on additional complexity from contact with the dead yeast (the lees).  This one, a blend of Macabeo (90%) and Chardonnay, conveys richness buttressed by a fine spine of acidity.  (Faustino, a top producer of Rioja, gives away their origin on the back label by using the Rioja name for Macabeo, Viura.)  Don’t be fooled. This Rioja producer has done a fine job with their attractively priced Cava.          
88 Michael Apstein Jan 18, 2022

Raventós i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia (Penedes, Spain) “De Nit” Sparkling Rosé 2021 ($24, Potomac Selections):  For many years, Cava has been the benchmark for Spanish sparkling wine. In 2012, Raventós i Blanc stepped away from the Cava D.O. and began creating Conca del Riu Anoia — a new labeling system with stricter regulations.  While not an official DO, winemakers labeling under the Conca del Riu Anoia follow strict rules ranging from a maximum permissible yield and biodynamic farming to labeling disgorgement dates and declaring every wine a vintage.  While Raventós i Blanc was the first to jump ship, as many as 18 other wineries left the Cava DO to join Conca del Riu Anoia or create their own unofficial designations. From a quality standpoint, the regulations under Conca del Riu Anoia create excellent wine.  Raventós i Blanc’s De Nit is a superb example that can stand on its own against traditional Champagne.  The wine’s sharp bubbles structure and bright, tart fruit are supported by a strawberry creaminess.  On the nose, a subtle lilac and baby’s breath provide excellent complexity.   With sparkling wines like this, Raventós i Blanc certainly makes a strong argument for an additional sparkling Denominación de Origen.  If and when that occurs, I hope their wines remain under the $30 price point, an aggressively competitive price when compared to French Champagne.       
94 Vince Simmon Jan 2, 2024

Pata Negra, D.O. Cava, Penedes (Spain) Rose Brut NV ($15): The Pata Negra rose brut delivers a good deal of satisfaction at a very attractive price. The blend of 80 percent Trepat and 20 percent Pinot Noir is lively and refreshing, with mouth-watering strawberry and cherry flavors. Buy it by the case!
87 Robert Whitley Jul 29, 2014

Campo Viejo, Penedes (Spain) Brut Reserva Cava NV ($13):  If you're in the market for an inexpensive bubbly that's both tasty and loads of fun, Campo Viejo's Brut Reserva Cava delivers plenty of crunchy apple character.
87 Robert Whitley Jan 3, 2017

Jaume Serra, Penedes (Spain) Rose Brut Cava NV ($12): Sometimes the occasion calls for quaffability. Refreshing quaffability. Jaume Serra's rose sparkler delivers that and more. This simple but delicious and refreshing cava offers red-fruited aromas, a lively mousse, and a lip-smacking finish. And all at a very modest price. 87 Robert Whitley Jul 15, 2014

Raventós I Blanc, Vino Espumoso de Calidad (Penedes, Spain) “Textures de Pedra” 2012 ($41, Skurnik):  A blend of three red grapes -- so technically a Blanc de Noirs -- this white wine is an outstanding sparkler and shows that the Champagne region does not hold a monopoly on high-quality bubbly.  Creamy and persistent, it demonstrates power and elegance.  Drink it as an aperitif, and then take it to the table.  It’s perfect for the multi-flavors of tapas, because it’s spine of acidity allows it to cut through the plethora of flavors on the table and reinvigorate the palate.
95 Michael Apstein Jan 23, 2018

Raventós I Blanc, Vino Espumoso de Calidad (Penedes, Spain) “de Nit” Brut 2015 ($23, Skurnik):  Raventós I Blanc, one of the shining stars of Spanish sparkling wine, left the Cava DO in 2013 and is spearheading a project to create a new one, Conca del Riu Anoia, based on the Anoia River Valley.  They felt the regulations governing Cava were weak and wanted stricter ones for producing higher quality sparkling wines.  With the barest hint of a light copper hue, you’d be excused if you thought this was a white wine.  It takes its “color” from the 5 percent of Monastrell in the blend with Xarel-lo, Parellada and Macabeo.  So don’t buy it expecting a pinkish hue to wow your lover on Valentine’s Day.  Rather buy it because it is outstanding and a bargain for what it delivers.  Impeccably balanced between a delicate fruitiness and an elegant structure, it has a caressing texture that allows you to enjoy it on its own, but enough substance and structure to hold up nicely against full-flavored Vietnamese cuisine. 
93 Michael Apstein Jan 23, 2018

Raventós i Blanc, Vino Espumoso de Calidad (Penedès, Spain) “di Nit” Rosé 2020 ($25, Augustan Wine Imports):  Raventós i Blanc, one of the leading Cava producers, left the Cava DO in 2012 to highlight their unique and individual terroir around the Anoia River Valley.  Their wines are no longer labeled Cava, but instead with what they hope will become a DO, Conca del Riu Anoia.  Millions of years ago the Anoia River Valley was covered by the sea as evidenced by the marine fossils in the limestone bedrock.  This unique terroir, Raventós i Blanc’s biodynamic viticulture, and their high standards explain why their wines, including this di Nit, are so riveting.  For all their wines they use only native varieties.  For di Nit, it’s a blend of Xarel-Lo, Macabeo, Parellada, and a touch of Monastrell, which adds enormous complexity and the barest hint of copper color.  So, instead of a seductively looking pink Rosé, you get a marvelous mixture of delicate red fruits supported by intriguing minerality all supported by firm acidity.  Its palette-caressing texture allows you to enjoy it as a stand-alone aperitif, while its substance and structure imparts enough oomph to stand up to flavor-filled Asian fare.         
92 Michael Apstein Jul 11, 2023

White:

Jean Leon, Penedes (Catalonia, Spain) Chardonnay “Vinya Gigi” 2015 ($35, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): Named after the daughter of the bodega’s famous / infamous founder (he’s a whole ‘nother story), this is an internationally styled Chardonnay that tastes very good but could be from anywhere.  That may be entirely in keeping with the founder’s wishes, given that he was raised in Spain, emigrated as a stow-away to the USA, returned to model his Spanish wines after Bordeaux and Burgundy, and chose to live out last years in Thailand.  Be that as it may, this shows plenty of sexy French oak in its bouquet, lending toast and spice notes to the stone fruit flavors (which are all about peaches).  Rich but not tropical, and with some grip from wood helping define the finish, this is quite successful.
91 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Gramona, Penedes (Spain) "Gessami” 2005 ($17, European Cellars): One of the very best wines from Catalonia, this charismatic blend of Muscat and Sauvignon Blanc seduces immediately with its exotic perfume of night-blooming jasmine, frangipani, and other tropical blooms.  After this heady fragrance, the refreshing dryness of the wine comes as an invigorating surprise -- metaphorically comparable, perhaps, to a sun-warmed body plunging into a cool, unruffled ocean. 89 Marguerite Thomas Jul 24, 2007

Torres, Penedes (Spain) "Sangre de Toro Vina Sol" 2007 ($10, Dreyfus Ashby): About as pleasant a white for summer sipping as you will find, the Sangre de Toro Vina Sol is 100 percent Parellada, a fruit-forward grape that shows excellent fruit intensity even at a lower level of alcohol. The '07 is listed at 11.5 percent alcohol, which is rare these days. There is a gentle herbal note of anise, an appealing summer scent that defines this wine. Well balanced and smooth, Vina Sol is a picnic wine with character, also very rare. 86 Robert Whitley Jul 29, 2008

Gallina de Piel, Penedès (Spain) “Ikigall” 2019 ($20, Bluest Sky Group):  Another white under the Gallina de Piel label shows how talented these sommeliers are at selecting wines.  It’s made mostly (85%) from Xarel-lo with a touch of Malvasia de Sitges and Muscat of Alexandria, which explains its floral nature.  The name Ikigall comes from the Japanese concept ”ikigali,” the reason to live.  Entirely different from Manar dos Seixas, the Ikigall is floral and plumper, yet still crisp and clean.  The Ikigall would be perfect by itself as well as on the table to accompany a chicken in a creamy mushroom sauce.  It’s a great buy.  Don’t be put off by the labels of Gallina de Piel’s wines, which are fanciful, full of imagery, and practically impossible to discern.  By contrast, the wine inside is very easy to understand and enjoy.       
91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2020

Agusti Torello Mata, St. Sadurni d’Anoia (Penedès, Catalonia, Spain) “ATM XII Subirat Parent” 2011 ($23, Mata Wines): This luscious and unusual white wine from Spain is fragrant and mouth-filling as well as sublimely delicate. Subirat Parent, a clone of the Malvasia grape, is much favored in Catalonia, and if this Mata wine is indicative of its potential one can see why. One of the wine’s many charms is a slight wash of mouth-watering salinity that lingers on the finish.
90 Marguerite Thomas Apr 16, 2013

Back to Top

Priorat:

Red:

H & G, Priorat (Spain) 2010 ($15): Wine of this quality is almost non-existent at this price point.  A deep nose of blackberry, black cherry, citrus zest and pie spice lead to a wonderfully dry palate that delivers the nose and adds vibrant white pepper and a touch of dill.  You'll need some food to balance the grip -- something like a grilled ribeye with olive oil, salt and pepper will be elevated, and you can go for the thick cut with what you saved on the wine!  Contains 50% Garnacha, 40% Carinena and 10% Syrah.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2015 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 95 Rich Cook Mar 24, 2015

Marco Abella, Priorat (Spain) “Mas Mallola” 2008 ($44): The La Mallola Vineyard, 1960 feet high and rich in black slate, is the source of this wine.  Mas Mallola is primarily Garnacha (63 percent), with 20 percent Cariñena, 11 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6 percent Merlot.  It has red fruit aromas and flavors, primarily raspberries and cherries, with some spice; it is aged in second-year French oak barrels for 20 months.  Although now eight years old, Mas Mallola tastes quite young. It can be enjoyed now, with many more years of ageability in its future.
95 Ed McCarthy Oct 27, 2015

Torres, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Perpetual” 2013 ($80, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates): A wonderfully meaty, satisfying wine, this shows both a rustic side fitting for rugged Priorat and a suave side that makes sense from the quasi-aristocratic house of Torres.  Blended from equal parts Cariñena and Garnacha, it shows moderately concentrated color but excellent density on the palate, with nice spicy accents from wood and savory, meaty undertones that nicely offset the juicy, open fruit (which shows red tones predominantly, but black tones also).  Convincing without being overpowering or overblown.
94 Michael Franz Apr 25, 2017

Vall Llach, Priorat (Spain) “Embruix” 2021 ($29, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  Priorat is named for the Carthusian monks, Priors, who developed viticulture in the area in the 12th century.  It is a rugged area with steep hillsides and shards of licorella, a reddish-black slate.  Enric Costa and Lluís Llach founded the Vall Llach winery in the early 1990s producing their first vintage in 1998.  Embruix, pronounced “embroosh," means bewitched in Catalan.  It is a blend of Carignan, Grenache, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah that was fermented in stainless steel and aged  neutral oak.  You might expect a big, rustic wine, but it is a beautifully balanced wine with ripe juicy fruit, vibrant acidity and polished tannins.  Enjoy it with grilled lamb chops or aged Manchego.         
94 Rebecca Murphy Dec 19, 2023

Alvaro Palacios, Priorat (Spain) "Les Terrasses VV" 2010 ($40, Rare Wine Company): Alvaro Palacios is one of the stars of Priorat, an area in Catalonia that he helped reinvigorate in the early 1990s.  Don’t be put off that Palacios refers to Les Terrasses his “third wine” behind Finca Dofi ($75) and super prized L’Ermita ($700).  It’s terrific and well priced for what it is—long and beautifully proportioned. It delivers so much more than just fruits flavors because of the slate soil of Priorat. There’s an alluring dense mineral component.  A splendid blend of mainly old vine, hence the VV, Cariñena (60%) and Garnacha (30%) with a small about of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, it carries its 14.5% stated alcohol seamlessly.  If you want to discover the enchantment of Priorat, start here.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2013

Mas d'en Gil, Priorat (Spain) "Bellmunt" 2019 ($26, Fine Vines LLC):  Mas d'en Gil, a small organic producer in southwest Catalonia, produces this beautiful village red, "Bellmunt," with 65% Garnacha, 30% Cariñena, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.  This is full-bodied but not over the top.  It is highly expressive with distinct Priorat freshness, crunchy red fruit, herbal notes, and faint minerality that showcases the wine's Mediterranean roots.  This is wildly drinkable now, but should hold a few years easily too.     
93 Miranda Franco Jun 20, 2023

Vall Llach, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Porrera de Vi de Vila de Vall Llach” 2010 ($65, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Priorat is one of just two appellations awarded Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) status, Spain’s highest official wine category (Rioja is the other).  Producers there are just starting to subdivide the region to show the distinctiveness of the wines from the various villages that comprise the DOCa.  I can’t determine whether this wine from the village of Porrera is, indeed, different from wines from another of the villages because Vall Llach doesn’t produce other village designated wines.  What I can report is that this wine is terrific and explains, in part, why area’s popularity has taken off.  Vall Llach uses the traditional blend for the region of mostly (75%) Cariñena -- in this instance, old vine -- and Garnacha for this wine.  Tradition works.  These varieties transmit a beguiling combination of wild strawberry-like fruit and minerality and carry the 15.5% stated alcohol effortlessly.  Despite its power, the wine has considerable grace and harmony.  It’s paradoxically bold, but floral and light a foot.  This is a perfect wintertime wine for those hearty lamb shanks.
93 Michael Apstein Oct 14, 2014

Alvaro Palacios, Priorat (Spain) “Les Terrasses” 2012 ($38, Rare Wine Company): Palacios is one of the winemakers who were responsible for the renaissance of winemaking in this unique region.  It’s easy to see why the vines were abandoned over the years:  steep slopes of solid rock.  A reasonable person could ask, why bother to replant vines here?  Fortunately for us consumers, Palacios and his compatriots bothered.  You can smell and feel the stone in this wine.  A blend of Garnacha and Cariñena, locally referred to as Samsó, it’s firm and mineral-infused, yet not hard or astringent. The combination of power and elegance is simply stunning.  Indeed, you can enjoy it now, albeit, with hearty winter fare.  This is not a wine to sip as an aperitif.  But, boy is it good with lamb chops.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 6, 2015

Genium Celler, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Ecologic” 2010 ($45, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This small, limited production winery, Genium Celler, in Priorat produces this lovely cuvee, a blend of 50% Garnacha, 25% Merlot, 20% Syrah, and 5% Cariñena.  It exhibits cherry, cassis, and plum flavors with a mineral-tinged backbone.  It is layered with excellent intensity, soft tannins, and balance.  Easy drinking and would make a great accompaniment to lighter game dishes or even fish as I enjoyed a glass of this with a Canary Island Branzino.     
92 Miranda Franco Jan 25, 2022

Marco Abella, Priorat (Spain) “Loidana” 2010 ($28): This is Marco Abella’s introductory wine; composed of 60 percent Garnacha, 25 percent Cariñena, and 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Loidana is easy-drinking for a Priorat (which can be tough and unapproachable when young).  The Garnacha used here is from young vines, 10 years old and up, which accounts for the wine’s drinkability.  It has deep, but fairly soft tannins, is very well-balanced, will age for several years, and will improve with age.
92 Ed McCarthy Oct 27, 2015

Torres, Priorat (Spain) Salmos 2010 ($42, Dreyfus Ashby): Dense and supple, this vintage of Salmos is a blend of carinena, garnacha and syrah that comes together in a smooth, rich red that is notable for its striking minerality. The complex bouquet also exhibits nuances of mocha and licorice, with hints of toasty oak vanillin and sweet baking spices. The palate is soft and layered, with aromas of red and black fruit, and it finishes with exceptional length and a lingering aftertaste. It was made with immediate consumption (and pleasure) in mind, and it delivers.
92 Robert Whitley Jan 8, 2013

Torres, Priorat (Spain) 'Salmos' 2009 ($38, ):

The Torres family moved a short distance south from its home base in Penedes to create this lovely red-Rhone style blend from Priorat. Easy to drink now, Salmos is rich and full-bodied, with sleek, supple tannins and layers of plum, blackberry and currant fruit. The wine exhibits savory notes of fresh herbs and bramble, with hints of chocolate and spice on the nose. Serve it with grilled or roasted meats.

Black Slate, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) "Gratallops" 2020 ($25, European Cellars):  Located in the heart of the Priorat, Gratallops is a small hilltop village known for its steep hillside vineyards and rocky soils.  Produced by Cellar Cecilio, this Black Slate bottling is a blend of Grenache, Carignane and Syrah from vines ranging in age from 20 to over 65 years old.  Fermented by native yeasts, the wine is aged for several months in a combination of concrete and small, neutral oak casks.  The wine is deep purple in color and multi-layered from aroma to finish.  Ripe fruit and black olive with spices dominate the aroma and carry over into the flavors.  Black cherry flavors continue well into the finish in this fleshy, but well-balanced wine.  Short term cellaring will smooth out the youthful tannic edge.  Impressive wine for the price.        
91 Norm Roby Oct 4, 2022

Celler Cecilio, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) Gratallops "Black Slate" 2021 ($25):  The first winery registered in the Priorat region, Celler Cecilio is family-owned and has been producing wines since 1942.  This wine is a blend of Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah from vines ranging in age from 20 to 65+ years.  Fermented with native yeasts, it was aged in concrete and French oak barrels for 9 months.   A deep garnet in color, it offers a complex nose of plum and licorice with floral, tomato leaf secondary background notes.  Medium bodied and ultra smooth, it delivers bright fruit flavors nicely rounded by light tannin and oak spice.  Though youthful with red fruit dominating, it is balanced and more of a finesse wine than a powerhouse.         
91 Norm Roby Jul 4, 2023

Costers del Priorat, Priorat (Spain) “Petit Pissarres” 2016 ($25, De Maison Selections):  A young but surprisingly accessible Priorat, this wine avoids the syrupy quality that characterizes many high alcohol wines from this hot, old vine region south of Barcelona.  It instead tastes fresh and vibrant, with bright fruit flavors that become enhanced by meaty, savory undercurrents.  Although it is a candidate for at least moderate (five years or so) cellaring, it’s delicious right now. 
91 Paul Lukacs Aug 7, 2018

Trossos del Priorat, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) Lo Petit de la Casa 2014 ($19, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage): The label borne by this lovely wine announces unashamedly that it was made from the property’s youngest vines, and as the winemaking team had the good sense to go accordingly easy on the oak, the finished product is terrific.  Medium-bodied but leaning toward full, this draws virtually all of its flavor from fruit (rather than wood), and though the grapes included in the blend aren’t disclosed by the front or back label, it certainly seems that there’s some red-toned Garnacha working nicely with darker tones from Cariñena (and perhaps some Bordeaux varieties and/or Syrah as well).  You won’t speculate about the composition of the blend for longer than it took you to read the preceding sentence, as the sheer charm of the wine’s juiciness will win you over, and the slight undertone of earthiness and minerality will seal the deal.
91 Michael Franz Dec 27, 2016

Bodegas La Cartuja, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) 2018 ($14, Olé & Obrigado):  La Cartuja is a nod to the Carthusian monks first planted vineyards in Priorat in the 12th Century.  In the vineyards, llicorella, a form of slate that is thin, shiny, and black, can be found on the surface of Priorat growing sites.  Llicorella reflects the sun and its heat back onto the grapes from the earth.  This heat helps the grapes ripen in Priorat’s continental climate.  La Cartuja uses French oak, relatively common in Priorat but a departure from Spanish winemakers’ traditional preference for American oak.  I pulled this wine from our cellar after three years.  While it still has plenty of power, it is just starting to show the dried fruit that comes with bottle aging.  Along with fresh and dried black fruit, the wine has vanilla, rough leather, and a good smattering of minerality.   For under $20, this wine is still available on the market along with a number of older (and younger) vintages to choose from based on your personal preference.         
90 Vince Simmon Jun 4, 2024

Ferrer Bobet, Priorat (Spain) 2005 ($45, Vintus): Judging from this wine, the first vintage of a joint venture of two friends -- Sergi Ferrer-Salat and Raül Bobet -- that they started in 2002, the project will be a success.  As with many of the newer wines from this region, the indigenous varieties, Carignan and Grenache, predominate, with only a little Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. They've fashioned a classy combination of minerality and ripe dark fruitiness that carries the alcohol well in this balanced wine.  Definitely a wintertime wine because of its warmth and intensity, it has a welcome suaveness. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 20, 2009

Finca Tobella, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Negre” 2009 ($19, ENYE Distribution Group): Priorat, one of Spain’s top appellations for robust red wines, uses both indigenous grapes, Garnacha and Cariñena, as well as international varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon.  Though many producers are moving away from including the international varieties in the blend, Finca Tobella, with this wine, shows those grapes do, indeed, perform well in the region.  A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (44%), Syrah (31%), Cariñena (15%) and Garnacha, the 2009 Negre combines richness and power with surprising elegance.  Despite the percentage of Cabernet and Syrah, the minerality of region comes through, not the imprint of the grapes.  Its polished tannins allow you to enjoy it now when you’re grilling beef this summer.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2014

Mas d’En Gil, Priorat (Spain) Coma Vella 2008 ($45, Classical Wines from Spain): The 2008 vintage in Priorat was cooler than usual, producing slightly less concentration, more vibrant wines.  Mas d’En Gil’s style leans toward less massive Priorat than many of the other producers.  The combination of their style and the vintage means that this wine, while still packing plenty of punch, is less muscular than the typical Priorat.  Spice and freshness balance its concentration and a pleasant bitter note in the finish makes this easy-to-recommend wine a good choice for this winter’s robust fare.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2014

Vall Llach, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) “Embruix de Vall Llach” 2011 ($25, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Vall Llach, one of Priorat’s top producers, designates fruit from younger vines for their Embruix (bewitched in Catalan dialect).  A 50/50 blend of the traditional varieties (Cariñena and Garnacha) with international ones (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah), it delivers a more modern expression of the appellation. A healthy dose of minerality peeks through the big ripe fruit elements. Its robust burly nature -- really a charming rusticity -- makes it an excellent choice for roasted leg of lamb. It’s a perfect introduction to the wines of this famed -- and thankfully now revived -- appellation.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2014

Marco Abella, Priorat (Spain) “Clos Abella” 2009 ($80): This is the wine that finished in first place in the 1,000 wines+ China tasting.  After I tasted it, I can understand.  The 2009 Clos Abella explodes on the palate with delicious flavors of black cherry fruit, spice, and voluptuous tannins.  It is a powerhouse of a wine with a long finish. Just about perfect; it should last for decades.  Certainly the most impressive Priorat that I have ever tasted.  Clos Abella is aged for 24 months in second-year French oak barrels, and then is aged in bottle for another two years before it is released. It is composed of 50 percent Carignan, 39 percent Grenache, and 11 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.  Clos Abella is made from a special selection of grapes, some of which are from vines up to 100 years old.  One vineyard is 2290 feet in altitude.  Grapes grow slowly up here, and are picked late.  Another vineyard, with oxidized iron ore, grows particularly earthy Carignan. This is the source of Clos Abella’s Carignan. Just a magnificent wine.
100 Ed McCarthy Oct 27, 2015

Perinet, Priorat DOQ (Spain) "Merit" 2016 ($28):  This pricey release from Perinet is a blend of old vine Garnacha, Merlot, Syrah and Carinena and it packs a wallop.  Big and bold, with richly layered red and black fruits, firm tannins and impressive palate weight and length, it’s a wine best held in the cellar for another six to ten years for optimum enjoyment.  
95 Robert Whitley Feb 11, 2020

Morlanda, Priorat DOQ (Spain) Crianca 2007 ($48, Freixenet USA):  This well proportioned red from Priorat is full-bodied and rich, shows exceptiional depth and a lingering, complex finish. Despite its heft at 15 percent alcohol by volume, this blend of Garnacha and Carinena exhibits considerable finesse, with layers of dark fruits, hints of spice, and smooth, sweet tannins. I served it with an herb-crusted roast chicken and it made for a spectacular match. 93 Robert Whitley Jan 24, 2012

Morlanda, Priorat DOQ, Crianza (Spain) 2009 ($48): This vintage from Morlanda is generous in the mouth, showing lush red-fruit character that has heft without being heavy. The blend is primarily Garnacha and Carinena with a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon that no doubt adds firmness to the structure. This wine won a platinum award at the fifth annual Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. It is beautiful on the nose, delicious on the palate, and a perfect companion with grilled red meats. 93 Robert Whitley Jan 28, 2014

White:

Costers del Priorat, Priorat (Catalonia, Spain) "Blanc de Closos" 2018 ($44, De Maison Selections):  This is an expressive and characterful white Priorat made from a field blend of mostly Garnacha Blanca, with small amounts of Macabeo, Moscatel Grano Fino, and Cartoixà.  The Blanc de Closos shows a refreshing mix of white peaches, green apples, crushed wet stone, and spring flowers.  The palate has superb balance, clean flavors, and a long-lasting finish.  The wine had a touch of skin contact, traditionally done in the region, giving it a textured and layered mouthfeel.  This will pair beautifully with a wide variety of food so grab a bottle (or two) when your food-loving friends descend upon your table.            
91 Miranda Franco Jan 25, 2022

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Rias Baixas:

White:

Terras Gauda, O Rosal, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) 2015 ($18, Baron Francois): The so-called “flagship” of the winery, this Rias Baixas is a blend of primarily Albariño (70%) and other indigenous varieties, Loureira and Caiño, which add subtle complexity.  O Rosal refers to the valley in Rias Baixas where the vineyards are located.  There’s no mistaken the cutting verve imparted by the Albariño.  The other grapes fill out the wine with a welcome generosity.   This energetic wine would be a good foil for even tomato-based seafood dishes.  And it’s a bargain.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2017

Bodegas Terras Gauda, O Rosal, Rias Baixas (Spain) 2017 ($21):  O Rosal, named for a sub-region of Rias Baixas, is the flagship of Bodegas Terras Gauda, one of the region’s top producers, according to their website.  The addition of Caiño and Loureiro to the blend adds roundness and complexity to the cutting spiciness that Albariño, the predominant grape of the region, brings to the table.  The resulting combination makes it ideal for hefty seafood, such as grilled sardines or swordfish. 
91 Michael Apstein Sep 4, 2018

Terras Gauda, O Rosal, Rias Baixas (Spain) 2014 ($24, Aveniu Brands): Most Rias Baixas wines that make it to the American west coast are varietally labeled as Albariño, and this wine is primarily such, but includes 20% Louriera and 10% Caiño Blanco.   The nose is floral, with peach and apple fruit getting equal billing.  The palate delivers on that promise, and adds refreshing wet stone character over a creamy feel and a crisp finish.  I'd serve it with oysters in a lightly spicy sauce, or enjoy as a thirst quenching warm weather cocktail.
91 Rich Cook Oct 13, 2015

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2016 ($15):   Martin Codax is among the finest wine cooperatives in the world, consistently producing excellent Albarino with grapes sourced from dozens if not hundreds of small farmers in the Rias Baixas.  The standards are high at Martin Codax and it shows.  This vintage combines richness with freshness.  The wine is beautifully balanced, showing notes of citrus and stone fruit with a light floral touch.  A platinum award-winner at the 2018 Critics Challenge International Wine & Spirits Competition. 
94 Robert Whitley Jun 12, 2018

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2021 ($17, E&J Gallo):  This Albariño from Martin Codax has got to be one of the best values available in the world of wine, and thanks to very wide distribution, it’s one that the world has relatively easy access to.  You will want to avail yourself of said benefit at your earliest opportunity if things like mixed citrus, sea spray salinity, a dash of stone fruit and a long lip-smacking finish sound appealing.         
94 Rich Cook Jun 28, 2022

Esencia Divina, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2021 ($24, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Despite having made multiple trips to Rias Baixas, I’ve never enjoyed the opportunity to visit this bodega in order to learn how such exemplary consistency is achieved across the various releases from Adegas Gran Vinum every year — or how they worked up the nerve to give a wine this name.  In any case, this is awesome juice that makes the name seem somewhat less audacious, with significantly more richness, depth of flavor and persistency of finish than the other new 2021 releases.  As the wine warms and opens in the glass, it reveals a hint of tropical fruits alongside the core of pitted fruits (reminiscent of nectarines and apricots).  The factor of serving temperature is worth revisiting, as this wine definitely gets better as it warms, whereas showing wines cold to cover flaws is a very old sales trick.  No tricks needed here, and no flaws, either.  This would be a killer pairing for shellfish, but more broadly, also for almost any seafood dish not involving a tomato sauce.  Substantial but refreshing, this is already terrific but destined for another few years of improvement.          
93 Michael Franz Feb 15, 2022

Fillaboa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño Estate Grown 2022 ($21, Monsièur Touton Selection):  For those of you who have wine shipped to you, beware that what arrives may not be up to what was sent.  I first tasted a press sample of this about two weeks ago that was sent to me for a webinar that I couldn’t sit in on, and the wine seemed amiss.  It was almost amber in appearance and showed more oxidation and less freshness than I expected, based on many previous vintages as well as a couple of site visits to the property.  So, I bought another bottle from a DC-based retailer, and sure enough — was treated to vastly better results.  The color was still a deeper yellow/gold than I remember from past years, but the vibrancy of the wine was vastly improved (and, indeed, excellent).  Quite ripe and rich, with orchard fruit notes recalling late summer peaches and ripe apricots along with baked apples, this never turns ponderous or heavy, as a beam of bright acidity runs through the mid-palate and offers excellent energy through the beautifully balanced finish.  The wine market in the USA offers a lot of Albariño that is tasty but still just “pretty good” by comparison to the releases of the best producers.  Fillaboa is definitely one of the best producers in Rías Baixas, and if you worry about whether you’ve not yet tasted “the really good stuff,” this will let you know — provided that you taste a good bottle of it.            
93 Michael Franz Nov 21, 2023

Licia, Rias Baixas (Spain) Albariño 2021 ($25, Winebow):  “Licia" is short for Galicia, the region of Spain where Rias Baixas is located.  When compared to other Rias Baixas wines, this Albariño is unusually complex.  It enjoys the traditional saline and yellow apple notes but it also shows thyme and cream.  The bracing acidity makes this an ideal wine with oysters and fish -- both standard fare for the Galician region.    
93 Vince Simmon Dec 6, 2022

Mar de Frades, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2012 ($25, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits): Complex on the nose, this Albarino seduces with aromas of tropical fruit, citrus peel and melon. With impressive weight on the palate for an Albarino, the Mar de Frades is fleshy yet firmly structured, a magical combination that makes it appealing both as an aperitif or a companion with simply grilled fish or briny raw oysters. 93 Robert Whitley Aug 6, 2013

Pazo Cilleiro, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2021 ($20, Quintessential Wines):  This wine is for those of you who have not yet been introduced to the wines from Rías Baixas, the maritime-influenced northwestern corner of Spain.  In fact, it is also for those who love the energetic lively wines of that appellation.  It delivers vivacity and spice without screaming because there’s plenty of balancing body.  It’s an electric wine that invigorates without electrocuting.  A hint of saline-like minerality and bitterness in the finish amplifies its charms.  The edgy wine is a good choice for ceviche or even carpaccio, not to mention virtually anything from the sea.  Plus, it’s a bargain.         
93 Michael Apstein Jul 5, 2022

Adegas Gran Vinum, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Selección Especial” 2021 ($32, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  The 2021 vintage was a tough one in Rías Baixas according to several sources, and I tasted more than a few washed out examples earlier this year that seem to confirm these reports.  To date, this is the best 2021 example I’ve tasted, and though it is a click or two below the quality level at which this wine usually shows, it is quite a success when considered in context.  The bouquet shows light, pleasant floral notes and primary fruit aromas recalling stone fruits — especially fresh, ripe apricots and nectarines.  The balancing acidity is perfectly adequate, and the freshness factor is aided by a higher degree of unresolved carbon dioxide than I’m accustomed to in this wine, actually seeming a bit pétillant or frizzante when first opened — though the wine settles down in short order.  Beyond being a very good showing for the vintage, this is a very good wine, full stop.    
92 Michael Franz Aug 16, 2022

Bodegas Attis, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Maceración” 2020 ($19, Williams Corner):  An Albariño with a twist!  This is a skin-contact Albariño with great dimension and a true affinity for summertime.  The bouquet flaunts orange zest, nectarine, and white pear.  The flavors include notes recalling vibrant citrus, green apple, lemon, salty sea spray, and abundant freshness.  Textured and lush on the palate, it finishes with wet-stone minerality and bright acidity.  This is a food friendly wine that begs to be paired with seafood.       
92 Miranda Franco May 31, 2022

Bodegas Terras Gauda, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) 'O Rosal' 2014 ($24): This exotic white from the west coast of Spain is a tribute to the indigenous grape varieties of the Rias Baixas, an area renowned for one grape, Albarino. O Rosal is a rare blend of Albarino with Caino and Blanco Loureiro. Floral on the nose, it surprises on the palate with creamy richness and weight that eventually gives way to mouth-watering acidity and a crisp, refreshing finish. Showing nuances of stone fruit and red citrus, this is an unusual blend that should appeal to anyone with a yen for Albarino, albeit with a twist.
92 Robert Whitley Sep 22, 2015

Bouza de Carril, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2017 ($18, Hand Picked Selections):  This convincing Albariño hits all the right notes, and hits them all with precise balance and timing.  Subtle flora scents lead to medium-bodied stone fruit flavors that finish with a zesty spritz of citrus.  Medium-bodied, it is both substantial and refreshing, and would work well with a very wide array of foods while also serving very nicely as a sipping wine for spring or summer.  Sign me up.  
92 Michael Franz Mar 26, 2019

Burgans, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2020 ($17, European Cellars / Eric Solomon):  I threw this wine into a flight of Albariño wines I was tasting, just because it happened to be around — which it is also in many retail outlets, and at reasonable prices, so why not?  Well, the wine was terrific.  This was not quite as surprising as my run-up may make it seem, as Burgans is always good, but this 2020 was among the best bottles of it I’ve ever tasted, going back many years.  The vintage was quite good, and with grapes sourced solely from the Val do Salnés sub-region, this wasn’t simply cobbled together from all over, and no doubt the wise choice of a screw-cap closure has helped — but still, this vastly exceeded my expectations.  Along with very expressive stone fruit notes of ripe peaches, there’s a tropical note recalling mango in here too, and yet the acidity is up to the task of keeping these ripe flavors seeming fresh.  There’s real richness in this, and indeed more ripe richness than would be advisable as a pairing with oysters, so cast your net for seafood with more heft, or pair this with poultry in a fruity preparation.  Yikes, what an accomplishment for a wine that seems to be made in considerable quantity!         
92 Michael Franz Aug 23, 2022

Fillaboa, Rias Baixas (Spain) Albariño 2022 ($21, Monsièur Touton Selection):  Although Fillaboa is a member of the Grandes Pagos de España organization, Galicia does not permit its wineries to apply for the official Vin de Pago designation that tops Spain’s DOP categorization.  Which is a shame, for this property along the Minho River and the wines made here would certainly make the cut.  This sparkles on the palate with freshness, fruitiness and minerality and has flavors on quince, apple, baking spices and a coda of lemon.  With a medium body, it finishes clean and crisp.       
92 Roger Morris Nov 14, 2023

Nessa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2017 ($16):  Albariño is becoming increasingly popular, and with good reason, but one consequence is that it is becoming more difficult to find complete, convincing renditions priced in the mid-teens.  But here you go:  A terrific rendition with subtle floral aromas leading to ripe peach flavors edged with citrus acidity.
92 Michael Franz May 1, 2018

Santiago Ruiz, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) 2021 ($20, Touton):  This wine is always among the best releases in every vintage from Rías Baixas, and despite the tough growing season of 2021, it is not only at the top of the quality pyramid, but also an outstanding wine regardless of vintage.  It is not designated as an Albariño, and indeed never quite tastes like one, as it always includes a notable portion of Louriero and a small portion of Treixadura.  Another distinguishing characteristic is that the fruit is sourced solely from the O Rosal subdistrict (just above the Miño river that divides Galicia from Portugal and quite near the Atlantic), whereas many bottlings of Rías Baixas Albarino are cobbled together from many small holdings (of which there are a very great many) across the region.  In the glass, this shows very restrained but still notable floral topnotes and open scents of stone fruits — recalling white peaches above all.  The acid-to-fruit balance is impeccable as usual, resulting in a refreshing wine that isn’t tart or thin, but also (viewed from the other side of the coin) a wine of substance that is defined and fresh.         
92 Michael Franz Aug 23, 2022

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2010 ($15):  This well run cooperative provides a good home for the grapes of hundreds of growers in the fractured Rias Baixas, where small vineyard plots are the norm rather than the exception. The 2010 Albarino exhibits notes of pear and lime, with excellent acidity and a rich, textured mouthfeel that is the result of what the winemaker calls "light" sur lie aging. The alcohol comes in at a refreshing 12.8 percent. 91 Robert Whitley Sep 13, 2011

Morgadio, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2013 ($22, Classical Wines from Spain): Morgadio’s 2013 is to Rias Baixas what Martínsancho’s 2013 is to Rueda--a classic example of the denominacíon.  If you want to know what all the fuss is about Rias Baixas and its indigenous grape, Albariño, just taste this wine.  It has spice and palate-tingling energy, but more depth and length than many other wines from that DO.  Its savory, slight bitterness makes you salivate and return for another sip.  It’s a good choice when searching for a white that packs a bit of punch.
91 Michael Apstein Oct 28, 2014

Nessa, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2021 ($18, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero): This is one of four bottlings of Albariño from Adegas Gran Vinum, three of which have just become available from the 2021 vintage (the top-of-the-line “Selección Especial” bottling will presumably be released a bit later).  This wine and the “Mar de Viñas” and “Esencia Diviña” bottlings will all surely improve with time, as proved both by the track records of earlier vintages and also by the improvement they currently show after being aerated.  This is a medium-bodied rendition of Albariño with excellent balance between fruit and acidity, recalling just-ripe peaches with a squeeze of citrus acidity and a pleasant tinge of bitterness in the finish.  Delicious — as usual.        
91 Michael Franz Feb 15, 2022

Terras Gauda, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino “Abadía de San Campio” 2015 ($18, Baron Francois): This 100% Albariño could be the poster child for Rias Baixas.  Riveting without being aggressive, it awakens and refreshes the palate.  It will slice through whatever flavors you put in front of it.  A white pepperiness adds to its appeal.  This is another bargain from a top-notch producer.
91 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2017

Condes de Albarei, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2021 ($16):  This Albariño is sourced from the Val do Salnés sub-district of the Rías Baixas D.O., and is a notable success from a difficult vintage.  It shows good concentration and pure flavors with subtle aromas leading to delicate stone fruit flavors.  Medium-bodied, with plenty of acidity to balance the wine’s weight and fruitiness, this will prove very versatile at the table, but also works very well as a stand-alone sipper.     
90 Michael Franz Aug 23, 2022

Deusa Nai, Rias Baixas (Spain) Albarino 2013 ($17, Vineyard Brands): Part of the Marqués de Cáceres stable of Spanish wines, this Albariño tastes true both to the grape variety and the region of Rias Baixas.  It exhibits summer stone fruit flavors and a floral perfume, and it finishes with a hint of saltiness, all of which makes it an ideal partner for seafood.  Drink it in the near term in order to experience its bright freshness.
90 Paul Lukacs Jul 28, 2015

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2014 ($15, E.&J. Gallo): Thanks to the importing savvy of Modesto's finest, you should have no trouble locating this delightful summer quaff.  When you do, you'll have found a glass of lemon, lime, stony mineral and a tough of tangerine riding a wave of racy acidity through a long, zesty and cleansing finish that leaves a mixed citrus impression.  Poolside, with mild cheese or pasta al limone should start the summer off right.
90 Rich Cook Apr 26, 2016

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2014 ($15): Martin Codax is one of the primo cooperatives in the Rias Baixas district, where Albarino thrives in the damp, cool climate of Spain's Atlantic coast. This vintage offers ripe pear and pippin apple along with a note of citrus. Showing fresh acidity, this wine pairs nicely with raw and steamed shellfish or served simply as a summer aperitif.
90 Robert Whitley Apr 19, 2016

Pazo Barrantes, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2011 ($20, Maisons Marques & Domaines): It should come as no surprise that Pazo Barrantes is a reliable label for an Albariño because that estate was founded and is still owned by the Creixell family, which also owns the exalted Rioja estate, Marqués de Murrieta.  The Creixells purchased vineyards and established a winery in Rías Baixas in 1991.  The vibrant, almost prickly, grapefruit-tinged fruit flavors sing in part, no doubt, because the fermentation and aging is done in stainless steel vats instead of oak.  For all its edginess, it has lovely weight and depth.  It refreshes while cutting through grilled swordfish on a muggy summer’s night.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 2, 2013

Xión, Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2020 ($16):  If you get a look at this wine in a restaurant or in a glass in your home after buying it from a retail store, you will possibly be alarmed by its evolved-looking golden color.  But worry not — this is still in excellent shape at this point, and the color is explained by use of a cork closure plus an additional year in bottle by comparison to the 2021 bottlings of Albariño that now predominate in the marketplace.  Indeed, 2020 is the better of the two vintages, and though this does show some oxidative development, that enhances the wine’s complexity at least as much as it detracts from its overall quality.  Prospects for this will get dicey by the end of the calendar year, but it is delicious now — rich, complex, balanced and very flavorful.  There’s enough here for this to pair up beautifully even with the most robust fish dishes, such as grilled swordfish.       
90 Michael Franz Aug 23, 2022

Don Olegario, Rias Baixas (Spain) Albarino 2015 ($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lovely wine, dreadful label.  I rarely comment about a wine’s label.  After all, it’s what’s in the bottle that counts.  And in that category, this wine is easy to recommend.  The problem is that the script on the label makes it almost impossible to figure out the name of the producer, so buying it is likely to be difficult.  Still, it’s worth the struggle because its clean, saline-tinged character gives a good introduction to what the Albariño grape can do in Rias Baixas.  Cutting and precise, with the barest hint of an attractive prickly sensation on the palate, it’s a good choice for flavorful seafood preparations.
89 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2016

Paco & Lola, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2015 ($55, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co):  Don’t let the nine years this wine has been in bottle worry you.  Sure, Albariño wines from Spain’s beautiful seaside region of Rias Baíxas, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, are usually consumed young with fresh seafood, especially oysters.  The age in this instance is nicely revealed by the forward tropical fruit aromas.  But the concentrated, citrusy flavors accompanied by crisp acidity and a silky mouthfeel provide a complete story that this vinous elder knows how to age.          
96 Rebecca Murphy May 21, 2024

Adegas Gran Vinum, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Selección Especial” 2022 ($35, Aurelio Cabestrero / Grapes of Spain):  In three words:  Stupendously wonderful Albariño.  In a few more words, this is a real outlier in the region, where most wines are cobbled together from many little plots, but this is sourced from 50-year-old vines in a single, estate grown site called Miranda Aurosa.  The tiny plots in Rías Baixas result from the splitting of inheritances across generations, coupled with a strain of the local culture that is resistant to sell land.  Nothing wrong with that, but of course there’s a grave disadvantage to trying to render a consistent and superb wine from fruit drawn lots of different sites that were tended in different ways, and try as one might—getting many growers to toe a single line is an exercise in futility.  To layer on yet another surprise, few vines of Albariño were even in existence fifty years ago, as the variety had to be brought back from near extinction by means of selecting the best of the remaining vines and then propagating and replanting them.  But enough of details and history:  This is remarkable for its concentration and depth of flavor, with textural richness that is reminiscent of excellent Semillon much more than a light, citrus-driven varietal wine like Pinot Grigio, which is true for many current renditions of Albariño.  Although it is an unusually “big” rendition of this variety, there is enough acidity to keep it fresh and make its ensemble of fruit flavors sing.  Those include orchard fruits above all, but additionally, one finds suggestions of baked apples, poached pears, and quince.  This has nothing to do with the Albariño you will find in a run-of-mill retail shop or grocery store, so think swordfish steak or even roasted pork shoulder as a pairing partner, and even then, buckle up beforehand.   
95 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2023

Adegas Gran Vinum, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Esencia Divina” 2022 ($25, Aurelio Cabestrero / Grapes of Spain):  It takes something like real...um, self-confidence to name your winery “Gran Vinum” and then release — as your 2nd tier wine — a bottling called “Esencia Divina.”  This is not a criticism, nor is it an accusation of arrogance, for the simple reason that these wines deliver on their names, which is no small feat (and they do it in less-than-stellar vintages, too).  This is not quite up to the “Grand Vin” of Grand Vinum’s “Selección Especial” in terms of physical weight, nor is it quite as classy, as it shows more tropical notes and overall flamboyance, whereas the Selección Especial” shows the weight and restraint of, well, a great Sumo champion.  Still, this is more in line with regular consumer expectations even though the wine is way, way better than the norm, and at a price lower by $10, it will be the better choice for many buyers, if not the better wine by overall critical standards.  Still conspicuously rich, with lightly floral aromas followed by impactful flavors of ripe peaches, mangoes and baked apples, this is very substantial and satisfying, but still pure in flavor and finish, with enough acidity to invite sip after sip.  Excellent, period.     
93 Michael Franz Oct 17, 2023

Castro Martin Family Estate, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Sobre Lias, En Rama” 2021 ($24, Frederick Wildman & Sons):  Albarino is the perfect warm weather wine, like this one from the Castro Martin Family Estate with its focused, concentrated flavors of Meyer lemon and white grapefruit charged by mouthwatering acidity.  Domingo Martin-Morales found and acquired a property where he built a winery 1981.  He was apparently a forward-looking man, because he installed the first stainless steel tanks in the region, before the appellation was established.  He was also an innovative man, building a three-story winery that allowed the winemaking process, including the delivery of grapes, crushing, fermentation, bottling and aging to flow with the help of gravity.         
93 Rebecca Murphy May 21, 2024

Bodegas Terras Gauda, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Abadía de San Campio” 2022 ($19, Heritage Collection):   Abadía de San Campio – or San Campio Abbey – is Bodegas Terras Gauda’s highest altitude vineyard for Albariño in Rías Baixas.  The altitude effectively reduces humidity and provides a cooler climate for slow, late ripening fruit.  The result is a brightly acidic Albariño that showcases bright fresh fruit. The winemaking choices, including cold maceration, provide nuanced complexity to the body of the wine.  I particularly enjoyed the wine’s subtle banana cream, green apple, honeysuckle, and pear notes.  Additionally, the wine’s creamy structure softened the experience for a wine known for its acidity.  This wine is built to be enjoyed by everyone from wine aficionados to new wine drinkers.  The twist top enclosure is begging for the wine to be poured by the glass.        
92 Vince Simmon Nov 14, 2023

Mar De Envero, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño "Troupe" 2022 ($33, Sacred Thirst Selections):  Mar de Envero was founded by Miguel Ángel Moreira.  In addition to being an avid surfer, Moreira noticed while surveying a vineyard that the veraison process (when the grapes begin to change color at the onset of ripening) resembled the rhythmic progression of ocean waves.  Inspired by this observation, he coined the term "mar de envero" (sea of veraison).  Moreira's dual passions for surfing and winemaking led him to strategically acquire vineyards along the far western coast, near the Atlantic, allowing him to indulge in both pursuits simultaneously.  Moreira’s 2022 “Troupe” Albariño is a classic expression of Rías Baixas Albariño.  It is smooth yet chiseled on the palate, with abundant notes ranging from citrus, stone, ripe mango, raw almond, and yellow peach.  The salinity on the palate enhances the fruits notes and allows for a sea salt finish.   This is truly a remarkable wine to pair with anything from the sea.       
92 Miranda Franco Apr 16, 2024

Valtea, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2022 ($16, Spanish Acquisition):  This Albariño from the family of owners, Carla González Chao and Lázaro Moreno Carrera, has a light yellow color with bright citrus and peach aromas and flavors.  In the mouth there is crisp acidity backing lingering flavors.  The intense flavors are courtesy of grapes that were grown on 25-plus year-old vines which provide more access to nutrients and minerals in the soil.  The grapes were fermented at low temperature in stainless steel to capture the pure fruit flavors and then spent six months on the lees, in order to create the silky texture in the mouth.  This wine is an excellent value, especially at this price.      
92 Rebecca Murphy May 21, 2024

Columna, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albarino 2015 ($14, Ole Imports): The 2015 Columna Albariño is a delicious summertime sipping white.  Rías Baixas lies in northwestern Spain’s Galicia region.  Buffeted by winds off the Atlantic, Rías Baixas vineyards yield wines with a fresh, lively style.  Columna’s grapes are from 35+ year old pergola-trained vines in the Condado de Tea subdistrict.  The 2015 Albariño is a delight!  It shows pure, fresh melon, tangerine and lemon fruit scents backed by hints of honeysuckle and fresh herbs.  On the palate, it is brisk and lively with the citrus fruits enhanced by the floral and herbal tones.  Fresh seafood is the cuisine in coastal Galicia and the Columna Albariño will be a superb match for your favorite summer seafood dishes.
91 Wayne Belding Jul 26, 2016

Nessa, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2022 ($21, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is another excellent Albariño from Bodegas Gran Vinum, and though I slightly preferred the bodega’s Mar de Viñas release from the 2022 vintage, you should not hesitate to grab this if you don’t see both on offer in a retail store or on a restaurant list.  The Nessa bottling is every bit as satisfying in physical density and depth of flavor, with the only qualitative difference of any consequence being a bit more textural “crackle” and vibrancy in the Mar de Viñas.  Even that slight difference is based on a side-by-side tasting of just one bottle of each, so the difference may come down to a slightly better cork in one bottle than the other.  In any case, you’ll surely enjoy the flavors recalling orchard fruits and ripe Golden apples, with fine balancing acidity and a very subtle floral topnote.  Delicious.           
91 Michael Franz Nov 14, 2023

Terra de Asorei, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Pazo Torrado” 2022 ($17, Wine Bridge Imports):  Pazo Torrado is a zesty Albariño from Rias Baixas in Galicia, North West Spain.  Remarkably pure and exceedingly fresh, it displays vibrant white peach, apricot, and lemon and lime zest notes that are followed by more subtle accents recalling white flowers.  Lively acidity makes for a dry, refreshing mineral-driven mouthfeel and finish.  For $17, this is a beautiful introduction to this grape.      
90 Miranda Franco Jul 11, 2023

Adegas Gran Vinum, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Selección Especial” 2020 ($30, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is the best rendition of Albariño I’ve tasted this year, and though it carries a premium price, it is worth every penny, and surpasses in quality several wines that are my annual benchmarks (such as Pazo de Señorans, Fillaboa and Granbazan).  In relation to those outstanding Albariños, this is physically denser and more concentrated, but without sacrificing any freshness, maintaining virtually perfect fruit-to-acidity balance through a long, symmetrical, mineral-tinged finish.  The aromas show the lightest touch of floral scents without seeming perfumed, and the flavors are impressively deep but still precise, with no indication at all that the wine’s sheer size was achieved by pushing ripeness past an optimal point before harvesting.  This excellent producer turns out three less expensive wines (Mar de Viñas and Nessa, both with list prices of $18 and Esencia Diviña at $24), all of which are excellent.  Yet this wine, sourced from a single, estate vineyard, is stunning stuff that will very likely alter your sense of how good Albariño can be, and offer a reference point against which to judge everything else from this appellation.  On top of all that, I’d bet it will become even better with a few more years in bottle…I just don’t know how much better for how many years.  But there’s no doubt that this is a superb wine in its own right while also being a clear category leader.         
94 Michael Franz Aug 10, 2021

La Cana Navia, Rias Baixas DO (Spain) Albarino 2017 ($30, Jorge Ordonez Selections / Fine Estates from Spain):  This is an oak aged Albariño with deep complexity, full body and ageability in its corner.  Taut interplay between lemon, peach and stone notes gets added lift from racy acidity and some bracing from carefully blended oak tones that lend touches of vanilla and cream.  All these make for a mind-bending white that lingers in a way inviting extended contemplation.  It’s a throwback in terms of technique for the region, and it is a window into how this variety started to gain traction in the market.  Love it!     
94 Rich Cook May 19, 2020

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas DO (Spain) Albarino 2018 ($15):  Martin Codax is a well-run cooperative in northwestern Spain that routinely proves the sum is often greater than the individual parts.  Drawing from an army of small grape growers in the Rias Baixas, this winery consistently delivers an outstanding Albarino at a modest price.  The 2018 exhibits notes of citrus and yellow stone fruits, with firm backbone and scintillating minerality.  A deserving Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition. 
94 Robert Whitley Jan 28, 2020

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2020 ($17, E&J Gallo):  Perfectly fresh, floral and fruity on the nose, this fine Albariño brings those elements to bear as palate flavors that sing with intensity and zestiness that lingers and begs another sip.  While there is a lot of experimentation going on with the variety, I find I’m still partial to this sort of unadulterated style – particularly in its youth.  Seafood, of course!      
94 Rich Cook Mar 22, 2022

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas DO (Spain) Albariño 2019 ($17):  Picture sitting under a lemon tree in bloom by the sea and you’ll get a picture of what Albariño is all about, especially in its native home on Spain’s northwest coast.  This bottle transports you to that place in direct fashion, with aromas of lemon and sea spray, which turn to mixed citrus and white peach on the palate, where a touch of salinity makes the fruit more lively than it would be otherwise.  At seventeen bucks, it’s a budget vacation in your mind.  A Platinum Award winner at the 2021 Monterey International Wine Competition.          
93 Rich Cook Mar 16, 2021

Nanclares y Prieto, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Alberto Nanclares” 2018 ($38, Jose Pastor Selections): Spanish Albariño at its artisanal best.  This saline, citrus-driven Albariño transmits the terroir of Galicia, full of salted lemon, white peach, crushed rocks, and fresh cream flavors.  It celebrates racy acidity and textural complexity, and offers a captivating drinking experience.     
93 Miranda Franco Nov 23, 2021

Bodegas la Val, Rias Baixas DO (Galicia, Spain) Albariño “Finca Arantei” 2019 ($26, Polaner Selections):  If you love coastal white wine and have yet to explore Rias Baixas (located on the southwestern coast of Galicia, Spain), it is time to remedy that now.  Rías Baixas is renowned for its Albariño and is among the world's greatest white wine-producing regions, evidenced by this terroir-driven Albariño.  It exhibits a lovely saline character with white peach, pear, and lime zest notes.  This Albariño is textured and lush on the palate, with lots of wet-stone minerality and bright acidity leading up to the lingering finish.  This was made for shellfish and other light seafood dishes.    
92 Miranda Franco Jan 11, 2022

Martin Codax, Rias Baixas DO (Spain) Albarino 2018 ($17, E&J Gallo):  This grape, here nurtured in its homeland, evokes sea breeze with its delicate briny character joining a mix of stone fruit and citrus on a creamy midpalate that finishes with clarion acidity that will have you reaching for the oyster plate.  It’s got a way of taking you to the ocean shore in your mind – not a bad place to go!   A Platinum Award winner at the 2020 Monterey International Wine Competition.  
92 Rich Cook Mar 17, 2020

Pedralonga, Rias Baixas DO (Spain) Albariño "Serea" 2018 ($20, David Bowler Wine):  100% hand-harvested Albariño from ten to fifteen-year-old organic vines planted near the coast.  Highly aromatic with citrus zest, nectarine, and green apple fruit aromas, this wine is laden with salty sea spray, rich minerality, and abundant freshness.  Crisp, thirst-quenching, and textbook dry, Pedralonga’s Serea Albariño is appealing from the very start.  It is in prime condition, so drink now.         
92 Miranda Franco Jul 13, 2021

Martin Códax, Rias Baixis (Spain) Albariño 2011 ($15): With a slightly softer profile than usual for the category, this wine is a good introduction to Rias Baixis and the Albariño grape. The wine still conveys the bite that makes that grape so appealing, but it’s more like a puppy’s nip. It would be a good choice the next time you’re having take-out Chinese food because it would cut through the spice yet not overwhelm more subtle flavors. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 1, 2013

Nanclares y Prieto, Val do Salnés (Rías Baixas, Spain) Albariño “Crisopa” 2021 ($119, Jose Pastor Selections):  Alberto Nanclares and Silvia Prieto make Albariño from old vines around the village of Cambados.  Their 2021 skin-contact produced, amber-hued “Crisopa” Albariño (with a moderate 11 percent alcohol and notable acidity) reveals an irresistible fusion of citrus zest and ripe peaches.  The plate's textural richness adds depth and complexity to the wine.  Layers of tangerine peel, peach, and yellow fruit unfold, underscored by a refreshing minerality.  This is ready to drink now, or over the next year or two, and this wine will sing with the kinds of dishes you would find in a Galician seaside town.     
94 Miranda Franco Feb 20, 2024

Mar de Viñas, Val do Salnés - Rias Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2021 ($18, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Adegas Gran Vinum’s “Mar de Viñas” release from the 2021 vintage is terrific and an excellent value as well.  This is sourced from the Val do Salnés sub-region of Rias Baixas, and displays fruit that is both generous and open, but also layered and showing emerging complexities even at this very tender age.  A streak of saline minerality lends added interest to the classic Albariño fruit profile of stone fruit with citrus edging, and the finish is admirably pure and persistent.  Wicked good wine — and deal.     
92 Michael Franz Feb 15, 2022

Mar de Viñas, Val do Salnés – Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2022 ($21, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  One of several releases each year from different plots utilized by Bodegas Gran Vinum, the Mar de Viñas Albariño is terrific from the 2022 vintage.  The key to its excellence is a combination of generous palate weight with vibrant flavors energized by excellent acidity and a touch of saline minerality.  Although a new vintage of this wine will presumably become available next spring, don’t wait for that on the assumption that this wine is tiring out.  It is definitely not, and my guess is that it still hasn’t reached its apex.  And as an aside, this would be a great white choice for Thanksgiving feast.   
92 Michael Franz Nov 14, 2023

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Ribera del Duero:

Red:

Bodegas Mauro, Finca de la Tierra de Castilla y León (Spain) 2019 ($54):  Clearly excellent in all respects, even at this young age and right from when the cork is first pulled, this will nevertheless improve for years to come.  Concentrated pigments offer a visual indication of what is to come, and the bouquet follows right in line, offering notes of ripe fruit that are very nicely balanced against spicy wood aromas.  Impressively concentrated and deeply flavored, this presents itself authoritatively on the palate, and yet is not overbearing in any respect.  Not too ripe, or extracted, or oaky, it wears its power and intensity very gracefully.  Although time in bottle will permit even more seamless integration of fruit and wood while also bringing up additional savory notes, this is an exemplary wine that demonstrates Ribera del Duero’s remarkable ability to conjure up wines that are delicious upon release or in mid-life, but that can also become something quite different and wonderful if held for a decade after the vintage.     
94 Michael Franz Apr 26, 2022

Bodegas Pinea del Duero, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo “Pinea” 2017 ($150, WineSmith Company):  The packaging and verbiage, 14.9 percent stated alcohol, the over-sized 2.6-pound (empty) bottle and the back label informing that the wine was aged in” very special French oak” for two years, put me off.  But I remember how impressive their second wine, simply labeled “17” was.  And once again, just as you can’t judge a book by its cover, you can’t judge a wine by its packaging.  This is a fabulous young wine from the Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s greatest wine regions.  Dark, powerful and plush, the wine is not flamboyant or overdone.  Indeed, it’s wonderfully balanced, carrying the alcohol and the “very special French oak” effortlessly and without a trace of heat or woodiness.  Tightly wound, it gradually reveals its mineral-infused glory over time in the glass.  It’s more savory than fruity, though there’s plenty of the latter.  The tannins are barely noticeable because they are so fine and well-integrated.  Paradoxically, it’s powerful, yet reticent, and finishes with a delightful hint of bitterness, which, to me, is a hallmark of a great wine.  It’s one for the cellar, to be sure.  But it you can’t wait and your budget allows you to buy multiple bottles, open and decant one hours before you drink it with garlic-infused roasted leg of lamb this winter.    
97 Michael Apstein Dec 8, 2020

Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Ribera del Duero (Spain) “Unico” 1995 ($300, Michael Skurnik): Not only Spain's greatest wine, but one of the classic red wines of the world, Vega Sicilia's Unico, made from 80% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, is so intense and concentrated that the winery ages it at least 10 years before releasing it.  Unico has enormous longevity and can easily age for 50 years or more; it's the world's finest expression of the Tempranillo variety.  The 1995 Unico (the current vintage) is complexly flavored and powerful yet elegant, on the level of the sublime 1994. 97 Ed McCarthy Feb 5, 2008

Telmo Rodriguez, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Matallana” 2016 ($65, Rare Wine Company):  Telmo Rodriguez has been exploring Spain wine regions since the early 1990s, finding and restoring old vines and varieties.  Twenty years ago, he became interested in the Ribera del Duero region.  It is luscious and intensely flavored with ripe black and red fruits with a hint of woody spices.  It is fresh and lively in the mouth supported by smooth tannins.  According to the winery website, the grapes for Matallana came from eleven unnamed vineyards in the region.  Note that the label has eleven black stripes.  Coincidence?       
97 Rebecca Murphy May 9, 2023

Bodegas Aster, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “El Espino” 2020 ($44, Skurnik Wines):   El Espino was created to focus on a modern style of Ribera del Duero wines.  It has the power of a traditional style, but is quite smooth and lush in the mouth with ripe black cherry, blackberry aromas and flavors lifted by crisp acidity and finishing with well-integrated tannins.  The grapes are sourced from three different vineyards.  Half the grapes underwent malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks and half in second-use French oak barrels.  It was aged in French oak barrels, 20% new, for 12 months, then four months in tanks, bottled in September 2022.         
96 Rebecca Murphy May 7, 2024

Bodegas Valderiz, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Tomás Esteban” 2014 ($100):  Only about 3,500 bottles of this are made in an average year from two parcels wine vines averaging 80 or more years of age.  Although it is very rich and almost bottomless in its depth of flavor even while some years away from its apogee, it is still not an overblown “statement wine” (that’s my term; the Spanish used to refer to the genre as “high expression wines”) that is impressive but not really enjoyable to drink.  On the contrary, this is a wine of great class and lovely style, with wonderful cocoa accents on a deep berry fruit core, with very nicely calibrated oak accents.  I also tasted the 2010 release of this wine, which was even a bit better, yet still probably improving, with years of enjoyment still lurking under its cork.  Fantastic wines at this address.        
96 Michael Franz Apr 26, 2022

Figuero, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo Vinas Viejas 2009 ($69, Quintessential):  Figuero's Vinas Viejas (old vines) tempranillo is a statement wine; the statement being that New World style is alive and kicking in Old World Spain. Bottom line, this is a powerful, rich expression of Tempranillo that may well surprise fans of neighboring Rioja, where elegance and balance are more the fashion. That said, as big wines go, Vinas Viejas from Figuero is a gem, showing ripe black fruits, enticing aromas of baking spice, and plenty of wood aroma from what seems 100 percent new oak.
96 Robert Whitley Dec 9, 2014

Isaac Fernández, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) Reserva 2014 ($60, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero): I’ve already reviewed this wine, but here’s another take on it—just after showed it again to 60+ tasters working “blind” in a Zoom-based class on Ribera del Duero.  Although there’s never unanimity in that sort of setting, this was the top scoring wine of the night based on precise scorekeeping by means of Zoom’s “poll” function.  That’s very impressive in view of the fact that two of the wines carried price tags of $85, but even more impressive in light of the fact that this 2014 vintage is the first-ever release of this wine.  In fairness, it benefitted from 4 years of additional bottle age by comparison to those two $85 wines from 2018, but bottle age doesn’t help every wine equally, so don’t make too much of that.  My clear impression from both of my encounters with this wine is that is exemplary in its intricacy, with many interesting details in the different tones displayed by its fruit as well as its wood influence and its bottle bouquet.  And yet, that’s not its most impressive attribute, which is the remarkable proportionality of all these sensory signals, which present themselves in near-perfect symmetry and in such a harmonious-seeming sequence that all the aroma, flavor, and finish impressions flow naturally and beautifully from one another.  As an aside, I thought even more highly of the 2015 vintage when first tasting the two side-by-side, so this is undoubtedly a new star in the Spanish firmament.   
96 Michael Franz Apr 26, 2022

Pinea, Ribera del Duero (Spain) 2018 ($150, WineSmith Company):  Ribera del Duero may immediately bring Vega Sicilia or Pingus to mind.  But Pinea's flagship wine, this 100% Tempranillo, stands shoulder-to-shoulder with those giants.  The 2018 offers intoxicating aromas of black raspberry liqueur, black cherry, plum, cacao, cedar, damp soil, crushed rock, candied violet, and blueberry compote.  Powerful and luxuriant, this dark-fruited gem is utterly inviting on the palate.  The palate is full-bodied with a plush texture, dark spicy fruit, and a balanced mineral note lurking throughout.  This complex Tempranillo perfection is approachable now with a good decanting; however, to truly experience its full potential, this should enjoy some time in your cellar.         
96 Miranda Franco May 30, 2023

Bodegas Arrocal, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Reserva de Familia” 2020 ($85, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This is the top wine from a terrific producer, but I found it to be rather reticent when cracking into it last week, though it became more expressive when left uncorked during the days that followed (four days, to be precise).  Accordingly, I have somewhat ambivalent advice:  If you have a cellar and a love for great Tempranillo that’s been patiently aged, you’ll certainly love this wine when it really starts singing around the turn of this decade.  Everything about it presages excellence at a minimum and greatness as a possibility, as it is very deep in color, quite concentrated and dense in physical terms, smartly aged with oak that is showy but not excessive, and loads of fine-grained tannins that seem very well measured in relation to the fruit’s intensity and richness.  However, if you are looking for a wine that you can open to enjoy now, you’d be happier with Arrocal’s 2021 “Selección Especial” release, which is only half as expensive but just as satisfying for current consumption.  That will change at some point that I can’t date precisely, when the 2020 “Reserva de Familia” is going to take flight and make my seemingly generous score of 95 points look low — possibly embarrassingly low.            
95 Michael Franz May 28, 2024

Casa Lebai, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Matadiablos” 2019 ($65, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  This wine by Rodrigo and Asier Calvo (with consultation from Isaac Fernández) is something of a project-within-a-project of the family’s outstanding winery, Bodegas Arrocal, made within the Arrocal facility along with a very promising white made from the local Albillo Mayor.  My recollection from a site visit in March of 2022 is that the entire production issues from a single 3,000-liter French oak Foudre.  When I tasted it recently alongside an extremely expensive wine of a roughly similar type (also made entirely from Tempranillo or — as it is called locally — Tinto Fino), this initially showed a distracting herbal or dry straw note in aromatic terms, but that diminished with airing, and was entirely absent when I re-tasted the wine 24 hours later.  That’s is a non-issue in retrospect, as this is a very high-quality wine that merits cellaring even though it doesn’t need more time to be enjoyed (but give it a vigorous decanting if you choose to dig in early on).  The bouquet is delicate but still intricate, with faint floral and spice notes atop a core of beautifully pure fruit that seems mostly red in tone but with some black accents as well.  These notes echo in the wine’s flavors, with darker fruit tones coming to the fore before a persistent and impressively symmetrical finish, with very fine tannins providing just a tug of textural grip to firm up the fruit’s sweetness, which is also enlivened with well-integrated acidity.  Once fully aerated, this proved to be a very stylish and beautiful wine, one that was clearly not crafted to chase “powerhouse” counterparts from the region based on dense fruit and intense oak, but rather with a view to purity and poise.  The price is more than fair in view of the quality here.        
95 Michael Franz Sep 12, 2023

Ferratus, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) “Sensaciones” 2014 ($36):  Ferratus (or, more fully, Bodegas Cuevas Jimenez Ferratus) is a medium-sized producer of about 10,000 cases per year, well equipped and energetically run, with very good cellar management and a skillful, French-born winemaker.  All of the wines are very solid, and the “Origen” and “Fusión” bottlings are to be sought out (91 points for the former from 2017 for about $22; 93 for the latter from the same vintage for about $50 — these are excellent scores from a hot, dry year that posed challenges).  However, my favorite here by a wide margin regardless of price was this 2014 “Sensaciones,” made from 55 year-old bush vines planted at very high elevation.  The wine is aged for 17 months in tight-grained new French oak barrels, and then provided with a full four years to integrate and soften before being released into the market.  Rich and deeply flavored but soft and inviting, this is a wine that proves immediately convincing; it impresses effortlessly, in the manner of a gifted athlete.  Clearly made from exceptional fruit that was beautifully rendered, this is styled for success in the US market, and hopefully we’ll see more of this on our side of the Atlantic sometime soon.      
95 Michael Franz Apr 26, 2022