Wine With... Crab Cakes

We live in Baltimore, where crab cakes long have inspired almost religious devotion.  People here get into heated arguments about how best to make and cook these Chesapeake Bay specialties -- how much filler to use, what sort of binding to add, whether to fry, broil or bake.  Personally, we like to keep the process simple.  So long as you use fresh lump crabmeat, you can't go wrong.  Our favorite recipe follows our wine recommendations. 

In the past, we've generally chosen very rich, creamy white wines to drink with crab cakes, but to our surprise these didn't provide the best match in our tasting a couple of weeks ago.  We tried thirteen different wines, and some that we predicted would show well ended up seeming only adequate.  These included a New Zealand Pinot Gris, a heavily oaked California Chardonnay, and a Semillon from Washington State.  All three were sufficiently substantial to stand up to the crab, but they seemed almost excessively rich, making the dish heavy and cumbersome.  By contrast, many of the other wines we tried seemed too light.  For example, the crab cakes overwhelmed an Italian Pinot Grigio, a Sancerre, a Spanish Rueda, and an Austrian Gruner Veltliner.

The wines that proved to be the best partners, while made from different grape varieties and coming from different places, shared a common profile.  They were generous in texture with a fairly full body, but at the same time they tasted fresh and lively.  Some showed evidence of oak aging, but bright, often citrus-tinged fruit flavors invariably came to the fore.  These wines enhanced the dish in much the same way a squeeze of lemon will.  They made the crab cakes taste fresher.

Selection

Approx. Price

Comments

Bonterra,

Mendocino County

(California)

Chardonnay

2004

  $13

This organically-raised wine showed a zing of refreshing acidity, and so tasted both clean and rich.  In turn, that zing is what made it a better partner for the crab than the two heavier, more obviously oak-influenced Chardonnays we tried.

Cline,

Sonoma County

(California)

Viognier

2004

 $14

With its sumptuous texture, this wine was a good match for the dish in terms of body.  What made the pairing even better, though, was the honeysuckle bouquet and bright, fresh fruit flavor that echoed peaches and lemon curd. 

Four Emus,

Western Australia

(Australia)

Sauvignon Blanc/ Semillon

2005

(Imported by International Cellars)

 $12

The tart and grassy Sancerre we tasted seemed shrill alongside the crab cakes, but this Aussie wine blends Semillon to temper and soften the overall effect, making it a very appealing companion.

Mulderbosch,

Stellenbosch

(South Africa)

Chenin Blanc

2004

(Imported by Cape Classics)

  $16

Complex, with a long evolving finish, this was another wine that boasted both freshness and richness.  A hint of citrus (lemon and lime peel) provided an extra bonus when paired with the crab.

Trefethen,

Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley (California)

Dry Riesling

2004

  $18

While this reasonably robust Riesling reflects the full warmth of the Napa sun, it also exhibits an elegant edge that enhanced the delicate sweetness of the crab.

MARYLAND CRAB CAKES

We like crab cakes best when they are prepared very simply, without onions or peppers or effusive seasoning to interfere with the crustacean's pure flavor.  Since we also prefer them without an overabundance of bread crumbs, ours tend to be looser than what might be considered the standard commercial cake. 

Preheat oven to 400.

1 pound fresh lump crab meat

5 teaspoons panko or other fine breadcrumbs

2/3 cup mayonnaise

I teaspoon whole grain mustard

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 whole egg, beaten

1 dash Tabasco

½ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon mild vegetable oil

Pick through crabmeat to remove any bits of cartilage or shell.  Mix the breadcrumbs into the crabmeat.  Whisk together the egg, mayo, mustard, lemon juice, Tabasco, and salt, and fold into the crabmeat.  Form the mixture into four patties.  Place butter and oil in a heavy skillet over high heat.  Sear the crab cakes on each side, then slide the pan into the preheated oven and finish cooking for 5 to 7 minutes

Makes four large crab cakes.