| Wine With . . . Parmesan-Crusted Fish Fillets by Paul Lukacs and Marguerite Thomas Why does fish often taste better in restaurants than at home? Sometimes it’s simply a matter of preparation. We have a good friend, a former professional chef, who recently introduced us to a technique that results in a restaurant-style fish dish that is a snap to prepare at home. A take-off on an old favorite, it involves coating fish fillets with flour, parmesan cheese, and dried herbs instead of bread crumbs. Both simple and elegant, it’s sure to please. The only problem is that this delicious dish presents a bit of a challenge when it comes to choosing the wine. According to our friend, you can use any firm-fleshed fish in this dish. You don’t want something really delicate like sole or flounder, as the fish might fall apart in the pan; and you don’t want something too meaty like swordfish or tuna. Halibut works well, as does red snapper and mahi-mahi. We used Atlantic striped bass (called rockfish here in What makes this dish so good is the combination of the delicately-flavored and fairly delicately-textured fish and the creamy, cheesy crust. But that’s also what makes finding an appropriate wine tricky. Something light and refreshing easily can be overpowered, while something rich and substantial can seem overwhelming. We tried twelve wines (nine whites, one dry rosé, and two reds) with it, and many that we liked on their own just didn’t work with the dish. An Italian Pinot Grigio, Australian Riesling, and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc all seemed somewhat empty, while a California Rousanne seemed fat. And any wine with residual sweetness–the Riesling, for example, and a Kiwi Pinot Noir–became sappy when sipped with the dish. The wines that did best, then, were completely or almost completely dry, and they all had a refreshing zing of acidity. They highlighted the subtle taste of the fish, while at the same time accenting the appeal of the rich parmesan crust. | ||
| Selection | Approx. Price | Comments |
| Faiveley, Chablis ( (Imported by Wilson Daniels) | $24 | A sensational partner, the ripe fruit flavors, crisp acidity, and trace of minerality in the wine were perfectly proportioned to match the texture and flavors of the fish. |
| Flora Springs, | $25 | On its own, the sweet oak in this Chardonnay might not appeal to everyone, but when the wine and creaminess of the dish came together, the result was rich and satisfying. |
| Gloria Ferrer, Carneros ( | $20 | This sparkler abounds with the bright, sunny taste of |
| Pazo Pondal, Rias Baixas ( (Imported by Bon Vivant, Inc.) | $21 | A charmer from the |
| La Rioja Alta, Rioja ( (Imported by Europvin | $19 | Unlike the other red we tried with the dish, this traditionally-styled, spicy Rioja did not end up tasting fishy or metallic. The flavor that linked it so harmoniously with the dish was the parmesan in the coating. |
| Margie-Ann’s Parmesan-Crusted Fish Fillets For Six Servings: 2 pounds fish filets such as halibut, red snapper, striped bass, mahi-mahi ½ cup heavy cream ¾ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese ¾ cup flour Salt and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons dried basil* 5 tablespoons butter Dip each fish filet in cream. Mix together cheese, flour, salt, pepper and basil. Dredge fish in flour mixture, coating thoroughly. Sauté in butter in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat until bottom side of fish is golden-brown (fo | ||
Wine With…Parmesan-Crusted Fish Fillets
By Paul Lukacs and Marguerite Thomas