Oh la la.
Thirty years after California wines trounced top French Bordeaux in what has become known as the Judgment of Paris, it happened again. Several weeks ago judges on both sides of the Atlantic–one set in Napa Valley and the other in London–sipped the same wines that were pitted against one another in the landmark 1976 Paris tasting.
In the original outing, the red wine winner was a 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars (SLWC) Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. The inaugural release from a then fledgling winery bested famous Bordeaux including 1970 Chateaux Mouton-Rothschild, Montrose and Haut-Brion.
Mon dieu! It was a shot heard ’round the wine world.
California wines were not supposed to be that good, certainly not better than the best of Bordeaux. Not only did the tasting propel California wine onto the world stage, it made a star of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. (In fact, a bottle of the winning 1973 SLWC Cabernet Sauvignon now rests in the Smithsonian Institution.)
The French shrugged off the results saying the wine might have won in the short term, but these California upstarts would never stand the test of time. Sorry, Monsieur. On May 24, 2006, California once again had the gall to defeat Gaul.
Taking top honors at the 30th anniversary tasting was the 1971 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon from California’s Santa Cruz Mountains. The 1973 Stag’s Leap Cab ranked second. Not only did those two wines shine, the top four wines of the entire tasting turned out to be from the Golden State. Who said California wines don’t age?
While I did not participate in the reenactment, 10 days before the big event I spent time with the owner of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Warren Winiarski. After sampling more than a dozen older and current vintages of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ offerings, I was not surprised when his well-aged Cabernet showed its true colors. Winiarski’s wines have always been a class act.
Elegance Prevails
It was 1964 when Warren Winiarski and his wife Barbara decided to leave their academic careers at the University of Chicago and head west. After landing in California, they started their winery in 1972 in what is now known as the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley.
Pioneers of modern-style California wine, the Winiarski’s shot to fame early on but have continued to lead by example. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ Cabernet Sauvignons are benchmarks of elegance, which is why Winiarski says they drank well 30 years ago and continue to show well today. “Our style has evolved but it’s always been about harmony and restraint. We don’t want to get super-ripe fruit even though that’s the craze now. It doesn’t make a long-lasting wine. Our style is balanced and always has been,” he said proudly.
Warren Winiarski believes, as I do, that if grapes are allowed to hang on the vine too long what you get is jammy, high-alcohol wines that all taste pretty much the same. “Those wines lose all sense of terroir,” he lamented.
This philosophy was brought to life in the glass as I tasted vintages of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ Cabernet Sauvignons back to 1976. The wines showcased astonishing color, fruit intensity, vibrant acidity and complexity. Alcohol levels were in balance and tannins were noticeable but supple. What was truly remarkable, however, was the expression of both vintage and vineyard that showed through in every wine.
Classic Cabs
Today the winery is famous for its signature wine, Cask 23 Cabernet Sauvignon, yet I personally covet their Fay Cabernet. They also produce the highly-regarded S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon named for their Stag’s Leap Vineyard. The Cask 23 is bottled in exceptional years and is a blend of fruit from both these vineyards.
Fay vineyard has a rich history. Established in 1961 by Nathan Fay, it was Winiarski’s wine inspiration. After tasting Fay’s homemade wine in 1969, he knew immediately he’d found an epicenter for great Cabernet. Though Winiarski produced wine with purchased Fay fruit for years, he was able to acquire the vineyard in 1986. Located on a gently sloping piece of land between his winery and a rocky outcropping of the Vaca Mountain range, it produces Cabernets that Winiarski calls “water.” Due to the vineyard’s alluvial soils, the wines showcase softness, richness and floral aromatics.
Juxtapose that with “fire” as Winiarski has dubbed wines from the adjacent S.L.V. vineyard. Comprised of primarily red volcanic earth, the vineyard produces wines that highlight structured, spice, power and intensity. It was in this vineyard that the original 1973 SLWC Cabernet Sauvignon was born.
This fire/water dance clearly is illustrated by the following wines. Most are no longer available (hence the lack of retail pricing below), but demonstrate the aging potential of elegantly-styled California Cabernet Sauvignon.
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V. 1976: For a 30-year-old wine, this is a remarkable drink. Mineral, dried spice complexity is apparent, but there is still youthful color, a trace of strawberry fruit flavors and smoky, cedar, perfumed aromas. The texture is silky and smooth, though an underlying structure holds it all together. 96
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V. 1978: Another amazing wine. Though slightly more evolved on the nose than the 1976, there is a density and richness to this wine that is jaw-dropping. Generally, a wine this old will have lost its fruitiness and any sense of freshness, but not this one. It is drinking like a dream now and could hold another five years at least. 95
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V. 1996: The tannins are apparent, the fruit is concentrated and the acidity is vibrant. I could be talking about a young Cabernet, but I am not. This one is powerful, structured and still a youngster with quite a life ahead. 94
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Cask 23” 1985: Plush, lush, and flush with richness. The highly-regarded vintage came at the end of a drought period, which concentrated the fruit intensity. Chocolate-covered cherry notes explode from the glass but are kept in check with a streak of earthy minerality. A true marriage of fire and water. 96
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Cask 23” 1990: Tighter and more closed than the 1985, the wine has a stronger “fire” element than other versions. Dark berry aromas are complemented by rosemary, herbal notes and grippy tannins. It’s like a sleek Chanel suit that will never go out of style. 95
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Cask 23” 1992: A cooler growing season contributed to the elegance and taut quality of this wine. Higher acidity is tempered by the signature concentrated fruit character of Cask 23. Drinking at its peak now. 93
Current Releases:
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Cask 23” 2002 ($150): The combination of fiery intensity from the S.L.V. vineyard Cabernet paired with the lush, perfumed character of the Fay vineyard fruit is magic. Caramel, cassis and mineral aromas tease you while the extracted yet still elegant fruit flavors seal the deal. Though delicious to drink now, it is almost a shame to do so. All the elements will seamlessly blend if given a decade or more of bottle age. 97
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V. 2002 ($110): Fire it up with this powerful expression of Cabernet. Blended with a dash of Merlot, it is still a Cab with well-developed muscles. Molasses and chocolate aromas pair up with exotic wild berry fruitiness on the palate. Tannic and tight, it will benefit from long-term ageing. 94
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Fay 2002 ($80): Though all the SLWC Cabernets are world-class, this is my personal favorite. Floral aromas of violets and roses waft from the glass and are followed with dark red berry fruit flavors accented by a touch of earthy complexity. It is the mouthfilling, supple texture, however, that reels me in. Drinking this wine is like drinking velvet. Drink now or age five to ten years. 96
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Artemis” 2003 ($50): Think of this as a baby Cask 23–a well-priced, complex combination of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from Fay, S.L.V. and several other SLWC vineyards. It is aromatic, vibrant, elegant and concentrated with an appealing minerality and silky texture. Named for the Greek Goddess of the hunt, make sure you hunt down this one. 93
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay “Arcadia” 2004 ($45): The winery is not only about reds, though that is where Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars has made its reputation. This richly-styled Chardonnay still shows restraint and is reminiscent of a classic white Burgundy. With only a small amount of the wine actually undergoing malolactic fermentation, it retains the racy, flinty notes of great Chablis. Barrel ageing adds toasty complexity and creamy smoothness without sacrificing the bright pear and melon fruit notes. 92
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Napa Valley (California) White Riesling 2005 ($14): An off-dry, apricot-scented white that is only sold in the winery tasting room. If you are visiting Napa and want to snag a few bottles, it makes delicious summertime sipping. 89