I am quite certain that Duckhorn’s Mark Beringer is an exceptional winemaker. The proof, as is often said, is in the bottle. Vintage after vintage. Yet I am just as certain that Beringer never made wines quite this good during his stint at Raymond.
Not that I mean to slam Raymond. Raymond is another fine Napa Valley producer, well regarded for its top-of-the-line Cabernets and Cabernet-based blends. But if Raymond is a Mercedes, Duckhorn is a Lamborghini. It has another gear.
Wait a minute, you might say, this is not a good comparison. Duckhorn is a Merlot house! This is true. The majority of Duckhorn’s production is dedicated to Merlot. Indeed, it was the Napa Valley Merlot that generated the stampede to Merlot in the 1980s.
Fair enough. But don’t you have to wonder about a man who can make great Merlot? Truly great Merlot. Merlot that is succulent and inviting without sacrificing structure. Merlot you can lay down in the cellar for a decade and know that it will get better!
Wouldn’t such a man likely ace the exam if you gave him sensational Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to work with? Wouldn’t you just love to see that? To taste those wines?
Well, I have. Walked through all four Duckhorn Cabernets with Beringer while visiting the Napa Valley last week. Three vineyard designates and the Estate Cab. Rector Creek, in the southern end of the valley near Yountville. Monitor Ledge, near Three Palms Vineyard in the warmer northern half of the valley. Patzimaro, over on the western side of the valley, near Spottswoode in St. Helena.
These are three of the finest Cabernets I’ve ever tasted from the Napa Valley, particularly in one sitting, and from the same (2003) vintage. The fourth, the ’03 Estate Cabernet that is a blend of the three single-vineyard Cabs, was every bit as good. I plan to review all four next week, but I am still scratching my head over the stunning evolution of Mark Beringer, the winemaker.
Gotta be those vineyards. Mark, you’re good — and you know how much a University of Maryland hoops fan hates to say that to a Dukie — but those vineyards . . . whoa!
8