VERONA, Italy — Opening day at Vinitaly was all about discovery for me, although I considered myself reasonably familiar with two of the three producers in my appointment book.
I kicked it off by visiting with Chianti Classico’s Castello di Gabbiano, which has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Both Gabbiano’s simple Chianti and estate-grown Chianti Classico are more impressive wines than they were a decade ago, and the Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 was quite good and an exceptional value.
“It’s one of the few Chianti Classico Riservas that’s closer to $20 than $30 at retail,” noted Gabbiano Managing Director Ivano Reali.
What really caught my eye, however, was the most recent vintage of the “Super Tuscan” Alleanza, from the ’04 vintage. They’ve played with the blend since the wine’s inception in 1997 but with this vintage completely abandoned the estate’s Cabernet Sauvignon in favor of a blend that is 95% Merlot and 5% Sangiovese.
I’ve long held that the Chianti region is one of the world’s best spots for Merlot, and Gabbiano’s 2004 Alleanza will help make that point. This is a lush, supple Tuscan red that’s absolutely going to turn heads.
My next stop was in Campania, at the stand of the stellar producer Feudi di San Gregorio. I can report with utter confidence that the 2006 Greco di Tufo and 2006 Fiano di Avellino are stunning wines, but I was most taken by an old-vine Primitivo they’re making from vines in neighboring Basilicata.
The 2004 Ognissole “Vigne Canuddi” is exceptional, with a lovely nose of black fruits and anise and a full, rich, supple mouthfeel. Luscious doesn’t begin to describe it.
My final stop of the day was in the Friuli region, where I was blown away by the wines of La Tunella, particularly the indigenous Tocai Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, both from the ’06 vintage. Both wines exhibited exceptional intensity, balance and minerality.
In a clever marketing ploy, co-owner Massimo Zorzettig has labeled his Ribolla Gialla “Rjgialla” because he believes Ribolla Gialla is too much for most folks to spit out, pun intended. No matter how you say it, these wines from the Colli Orientali area of Friuli are remarkably good.
It was one of those “where have these wines been all my life” moments, but at least now I know!
Photos: Top, Gabbiano Managing Director Ivano Reali shows off a bottle of the 2004 Alleanza; bottom, La Tunella owner Massimo Zorzettig raises a glass of Tocai Friulano.
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